' 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


OF 

SAILOR  LIFE, 

AS  EXEMPLIFIED  IN  FIFTEEN  YEARS’  EXPERIENCE,  INCLUDING  THE 

MORE  THRILLING  EVENTS 


OF  THE 

U.  S.  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION, 

AND 

* 

REMINISCENCES 

OF  AN 


EVENTFUL  LIFE  ON  THE  “ MOUNTAIN  WAVE." 
BY  JOSEPH  G.  CLARK. 


BOSTON: 

JOHN  PUTNAM,  81  CORNHILL . 
1847. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1847, 
BY  JOSEPH  G.  CLARK, 

In  the  Clerk’s  office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


TO  THE 

REV.  PHINEAS  STOW, 

IN  CONSIDERATION  OF  HIS  UNTIRING  AND  EFFICIENT  LABORS  IN 
THE  GREAT  WORK  OF  EVANGELIZING  SEAMEN,  AND  IN  TOKEN 
OF  THE  HIGH  REGARD  WHICH  I ENTERTAIN  FOR  HIS  CHRIS- 
TIAN CHARACTER,  THIS  WORK  IS  MOST  RESPECTFULLY  AND 
AFFECTIONATELY  DEDICATED,  BY 


THE  AUTHOR 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/lightsshadowsofsOOclar 


PREFACE. 


In  presenting  this  work  to  the  public,  I deem  it  un- 
necessary to  enter  into  any  elaborate  explanation  of 
its  design,  or  offer  an  apology  for  its  appearance.  I 
have  been  pursuing  an  object  which  I conceive  to  be 
of  the  highest  importance,  which  is  the  awakening  of 
the  public  sympathy  to  the  nature  and  importance  of 
the  claims  of  seamen  ; this,  in  my  estimation,  may  be 
best  accomplished  by  a truthful  and  lucid  exhibition 
of  the  “lights  and  shadows  of  sailor  life.”  To  ac- 
complish the  object  thus  truthfully,  a thorough  ed- 
ucation in  the  school  of  experience  will  be  the  qual- 
ification which  the  public  generally,  both  learned  and 
unlearned,  will  regard  as  most  adapted  to  such  a work. 
At  the  present  day,  much  interest  is  already  felt  in 
behalf  of  the  sailor,  and  that  interest  is  still  increasing. 
It  is  a matter  of  the  first  importance  that  suitable  in- 
formation should  be  furnished,  in  order  to  give  a right 
direction  to  the  efforts  that  may  be  employed  to  ele- 
vate the  character  of  seamen.  One  great  truth  has 
long  been  apparent  to  my  mind,  which  is,  that  the 
condition  of  the  sailor  must  be  improved  before  his 
character  can  be  very  materially  elevated.  The  gos- 
1* 


VI 


PREFACE. 


pel,  indeed,  can  accomplish,  either  directly  or  indirect- 
ly, all  that  is  expected  in  moral  reform,  but  it  enjoins, 
with  much  clearness,  the  removal  of  physical  as  well 
as  moral  obstacles. 

Of  what  avail  is  it  that  the  mariner  is  induced  to 
attend  religious  service  on  the  Sabbath,  if  he  mingles 
with  the  corrupting  society  of  the  brothel  the  remain- 
ing portion  of  the  time  1 Of  what  avail  is  it  that  we 
go  to  the  sailor  shivering  on  the  beach,  escaped  from 
the  wreck,  with  religious  books  ? A dry  jacket,  or  food, 
would  be  much  more  acceptable,  while  moral  efforts 
might  be  appropriate  and  effectual  afterward.  This 
great  truth  has  been  overlooked  until  quite  recently, 
when  it  was  embraced  by  the  Seamen’s  Friend  Soci- 
ety. The  officers  of  that  benevolent  institution  have 
learned  the  fact  that  every  step  in  improving  the  phys- 
ical condition  of  the  sailor  advances  him  two  steps  to- 
wards reformation, — first  by  removing  him  from  his 
vices  and  vile  companions,  and  secondly,  by  inclining 
him  toward  virtue  by  bringing  him  under  the  influ- 
ence of  the  gospel. 

Religion  is  a work  in  which  the  understanding  is 
concerned;  no  one  comes  under  its  influence  without 
a knowledge  of  it ; no  man  will  apply  for  pardon  and 
grace,  until  he  understands  properly  that  there  is  no 
other  hope  for  him.  That  part  of  our  Lord’s  prayer, 
“ sanctify  them  through  thy  truth,  thy  word  is  truth,” 
is  sufficient  evidence  of  the  fact  that  any  advancement 
in  the  divine  life  after  conversion,  will  be  as  much  the 
work  of  an  enlightened  understanding,  as  is  the  con- 
version. 

The  benevolent  operations  of  the  day  being  but  a 
part  of  religion,  must  be  understandingly  engaged  in, 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


if  they  are  to  be  auxiliaries  to  the  conversion  of  the 
world. 

The  gospel  comes  to  us  in  our  darkness,  a glorious 
light  from  heaven  ; it  reveals  the  great  scheme  of  sal- 
vation, and  at  once  discloses  the  promises  of  God  to 
his  people,  and  the  means  by  which  those  promises 
are  to  be  fulfilled.  The  means,  then,  like  the  end,  are 
of  divine  appointment ; hence,  any  efforts  that  may 
be  made  on  the  part  of  Zion  to  aid  in  the  great  gos- 
pel victory,  will  be  effectual  only  as  God’s  means  are 
employed  in  the  accomplishment  of  his  purposes. 

The  question  very  naturally  arises,  what  has  the 
poor,  despised,  neglected,  degraded  sailor  to  do  in  the 
spread  of  the  gospel?  I appeal  to  the  Bible, — u Be- 
cause the  abundance  of  the  sea  shall  be  converted  un- 
to thee , the  forces  of  the  gentiles  shall  come  unto  thee.” 
Again,  the  same  view  is  repeated  in  that  vision  in 
which  the  prophet  was  shown  the  coming  glory  of 
Christ:  “ Thy  sons  shall  come  from  far.”  u Surely 
the  isles  shall  wait  for  me,  and  the  ships  of  Tarshish 
first,  to  bring  thy  sons  from  far,  their  silver  and  their 
gold  with  them,  unto  the  name  of  the  Lord  thy  God, 
and  to  the  Holy  One  of  Israel.”  In  these  and  other 
passages,  we  see  that  God  has  designed  the  sailor  to 
act  a very  important  part  in  the  great  conflict  between 
sin  and  grace.  In  accordance  with  this  view,  Jesus, 
being  about  to  choose  his  disciples,  went  to  the  sea  of 
Galilee,  and  selected  a small  company  of  weather- 
beaten sailors  as  the  means  best  adapted  to  the  spread 
of  the  gospel. 

While  I would  avoid  every  thing  like  egotism,  and 
while  I would  not  detract  from  the  intrinsic  value  of 
the  ordinary  missionary  labor,  yet  it  is  worthy  of  re- 


Vlll 


PREFACE. 


mark,  that  it  was  to  these  sailors  that  Jesus  gave  his 
great  commission,  “ Go  ye  into  all  the  world  and 
preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature,55  a commission 
for  which  the  sailor  is  most  admirably  adapted.  It 
becomes  a Christian  duty,  then,  to  inquire  into  the 
condition  of  these  individuals,  and  it  is,  partly,  to  give 
such  information,  that  these  “ Lights  and  Shadows55 
have  been  penned. 

The  Journal  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  publish- 
ed by  the  government,  being  a very  expensive  work, 
places  its  very  important  and  interesting  matter  be- 
yond the  means  of  the  working  classes,  and  the  scenes 
and  sketches  which  I have  penned  from  my  journal 
of  that  cruise,  will  be  read  with  interest  and  profit  by 
such  as  shall  peruse  these  pages,  as  they  will  deline- 
ate the  manners  and  customs  of  different  portions  of 
the  world,  of  whose  inhabitants  little  has  been  writ- 
ten. The  description  of  scenery  and  “ life  on  the  ocean 
wave,55  has  been  truthfully  penned,  and  the  author 
can,  with  all  confidence,  appeal  to  the  experience  of 
every  sailor  for  its  confirmation.  In  the  recital  of  the 
events  in  which  he  was  personally  engaged,  any  tiling 
like  exaggeration  has  been  carefully  avoided ; the 
facts  connected  with  the  death  of  the  generous  Un- 
derwood and  Henry,  were  too  deeply  engraven  on  his 
body  as  well  as  his  mind  to  be  easily  forgotten,  and  in 
a way  that  renders  exaggeration  wholly  unnecessary. 
Any  remark  that  he  may  make  upon  the  officers  of  the 
different  vessels,  he  has  given  only  his  own  personal 
opinions,  free  from  prejudice,  or  color  of  any  kind, 
save  truth. 

From  the  nature  of  their  employment,  seamen  are 
to  some  extent  isolated,  removed  from  many  of  the 


PREFACE. 


IX 


influences  which  are  adapted,  in  their  tendencies,  to 
refine  the  more  ennobling  sentiments  of  our  nature, 
and  to  elevate  human  character.  From  these  circum- 
stances it  seems  inevitable  that  they  should  assume  a 
kind  of  distinctness , should  become  a class,  yet  not  a 
caste , to  which  the  tendency  of  the  past  age  has  been 
so  much  inclined.  There  are  peculiarities  among  all 
the  varied  classes  and  conditions  of  society,  and  this 
diversity  constitutes  the  necessity  of  an  adaptation  of 
reformatory  labors  to  these  peculiarities.  In  this  view 
of  the  subject,  no  one,  it  is  presumed,  will  question 
the  propriety  of  the  issue  of  books  which  will  be  par- 
ticularly interesting  to  the  sailor  as  such,  or  those  that 
will  canvass  such  topics  as  are  interesting  and  impor- 
tant, not  only  to  seamen  but  landsmen.  Every  one 
who  has  been  at  all  observant,  must  have  been  con- 
vinced that  there  has  been,  and  still  is,  a manifest  de- 
ficiency in  this  respect.  It  is  true  there  have  been 
many  specimens  of  modern  literature — “ falsely  so 
called” — in  which  the  imagery  of  the  ocean  has  been 
employed ; and  others  still,  whose  plots  have  been 
drawn  from  the  incidents  of  the  ocean,  and  others  of 
a different  character, — all  of  which  are  designed  for 
the  usons  of  the  mountain  wave.”  Of  such  works 
there  is  an  abundance. 

It  is  not  true, — as  many  have  supposed, — that  sea- 
men can  not  appreciate  laudable  efforts,  which  are 
made  to  elevate  the  class.  As  among  all  classes  of 
society,  there  is  a variety  here.  There  are  those  who 
are  as  degraded  and  brutalized,  seemingly,  as  their 
native  depravity  can  make  them,  reveling  in  the 
ha„unts  of  pollution  and  drunkenness.  As  accessary, 


X 


PREFACE. 


however,  to  this  wreck  of  character,  and  blasting  of 
early-cherished  hopes,  the  filching,  soulless  landlord, 
and  the  wily  dram-seller,  have  much  to  account  for. 
The  poor,  down-trodden  sailor  has  received  unnum- 
bered wrongs  from  their  hands,  which  are  still  regis- 
tered against  them  in  letters  of  fire. 

Yet  there  is  a far  greater  number  who  are  high- 
minded,  generous  and  worthy,  who  have  selected  an 
ocean-life — not  from  a blind  fatality — but  have  been 
drawn  to  it  by  a love  of  the  grand  and  wildly  sub- 
lime, which  the  ocean  ever  presents  to  the  lover  of 
nature’s  wonders.  The  scholar  is  often  found  here, 
whose  romantic  predilections  have  induced  him  to 
leave  the  halls  of  science,  and  study  nature  in  her 
more  imposing  forms.  There  is  a grandeur  in  ocean 
scenery,  a majesty  in  the  strides  of  a stately  ship,  as 
she  moves,  like  “a  thing  of  life,”  over  the  heaving 
bosom  of  restless  waters ; — an  awe  in  the  tempest, 
when  the  mighty  voice  of  the  Omnipotent  is  heard  in 
thunder-tones,  pealing  amid  the  roar  of  winds  and 
the  dashings  of  billows,  which  can  divert  the  man  of 
letters  from  his  more  quiet  labors. 

There  are,  indeed,  many  u shadows”  in  the  sailor’s 
life,  yet  it  has  its  “ lights”  also;  and  could  the  pro- 
fession be  elevated  in  the  popular  estimation,  to  the 
position  which  its  importance  demands,  and  the  tal- 
ent which  is  already  enlisted,  be  developed,  its  “lights” 
would  be  far  more  conspicuous.  Indeed,  when  the 
efficiency  of  this  branch  of  industry  is  appreciated ; 
when  the  peculiar  relations  which  the  marine  enter- 
prise sustains  to  the  advancement  of  civilization,  and, 
above  all,  to  the  propagation  of  the  everlasting  gos- 
pel among  the  benighted  sons  of  heathen  gloom  are 


PREFACE. 


XI 


felt,  the  apparent  indifference  of  a portion  of  Christen- 
dom is  wholly  unaccountable.  The  sailor  is  a self- 
constituted  missionary,  and  must  be  regarded  in  pa- 
gan climes  as  the  representative  of  a Christian  com- 
munity. He  may  bear  the  olive  branch  of  peace  .to 
such  as  are  blindly  bowing  before  dumb  idols,  or  are 
prostrating  themselves  before  the  ponderous  car,  to 
avert  the  vengeance  of  imaginary  gods,  or  he  will 
scatter  the  seeds  of  corruption,  intemperance  and 
death.  A neutrality  in  this  matter  is  scarcely  attain- 
able. The  records  of  the  past,  and  the  experience  of 
those  on  mission  grounds,  furnish  sad  proofs  of  this 
proposition.  Those  labors  have  often  proved  appa- 
rently ineffectual,  from  the  counteracting  influences 
of  those  who  have  visited  missions,  and  have  not  been 
guided  by  the  pure  principles  of  Christianity.  The 
pagan,  in  his  simplicity,  has  shrunk  in  horror  from 
the  licentiousness  of  those  whom  he  has  regarded  as 
Christians,  simply  because  their  residence  is  in  a 
Christian  country. 

These  considerations  will  justify  the  remark  made 
at  the  onset,  that  no  apology  is  deemed  necessary  for 
any  attempts  which  may  be  made  to  elevate  this  class 
of  our  citizens, — the  results  of  whose  examples  so  in- 
timately affect  the  great  interests  of  humanity. 

In  order  to  render  this  work  still  more  acceptable 
to  the  reader,  I have  secured  the  services  of  Mr.  J.  H. 
Hanaford,  a gentleman  who  was  employed  in  inter- 
esting the  readers  of  the  “ Light  Ship,”  of  which 
paper  he  was  the  editor  for  some  time ; his  sympathy 
for,  and  deep  interest  and  zeal  in  behalf  of  the  sons  of 
11  Zebulon  his  well-established  character  for  morals 


Xll 


PREFACE. 


and  religion,  united  with  his  scientific  attainments, 
admirably  qualify  him  to  review  this  narrative,  and 
prepare  it  properly- for  the  press. 

It  is  but  justice  to  add,  that  the  very  short  time  oc- 
cupied in  its  publication,  with  some  unfavorable  cir- 
cumstances, wholly  beyond  my  control,  have  rendered 
the  work  less  perfect  than  it  otherwise  would  have 
been.  In  consequence  of  this,  some  errors  would 
naturally  be  unavoidable. 


BOSTON,  SEPTEMBER,  1847. 


CLARK’S  NARRATIVE 


CHAPTER  I. 


The  Departure — Sermon — Ocean  Scenery — Flying  Fish  and 
Dolphins — Brilliant  Phosphoretic  Scene,  and  its  cause — The 
Madeira  Islands — Rio  de  Janeiro — Ascent  of  the  Sugar  Loaf. 

Farewell  to  the  land  of  my  childhood  and  youth, 

The  land  of  the  bible,  religion  and  truth ; 

Thou  bright  land  of  blessings  in  every  form, 

1 leave  thee,  and  fly  to  the  billows  and  storm. 

Ye  scenes  of  true  happiness,  friendship  and  home, 

Through  which,  when  a boy,  I delighted  to  roam, — 

Ye  fields  of  sweet  wild-flowers,  the  woodbine  and  heath, 

I leave  ye  to  grapple  with  dangers  and  death. 


1838.  All  things  being  ready  for  sea,  on  the  9th 
of  August  dropped  down  to  Hampton  roads,  prepar- 
atory to  sailing  for  the  South  Pacific  Ocean,  where 
we  remained  for  a few  days,  waiting  for  a favorable 
breeze. 

The  memorable  day  at  length  arrived  for  the  long- 
talked-of  Expedition  to  sail.  At  half  past  three 
o’clock  P.  M.  a signal  was  made  from  the  Commo- 
2 


14 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


dore’s  ship  for  the  squadron  to  get  underway.  Ac- 
cordingly, soon  after  the  capstan  was  manned,  and 
the  anchor  “ catted,”  and  every  one  seemed  anxious 
to  hid  adieu  to  his  home,  since  they  had  been  so  long 
kept  in  suspense,  many  in  sight  of  their  own 
“ homes,”  without  ever  having  the  privilege  of  visit- 
ing their  friends. 

There  have  been  various  changes  in  this  Expedi- 
tion since  its  first  organization  under  the  command  of 
Thomas  Ap  Catesby  Jones,  Esq.,  and  six  commanders 
have  been  appointed  and  discharged  since  Commo- 
dore Jones  gave  it  up.  And  we  were  now  about  to 
take  leave  of  our  loved,  our  native  country. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far,  when  the  wind  died 
away  and  we  were  compelled  to  come  to  anchor, 
only  a short  distance  from  where  we  started. 

Soon  after,  however,  a breeze  springing  up,  signals 
were  again  made  for  the  squadron  to  get  underway, 
which  was  immediately  done,  and  all  the  vessels 
stood  out  in  company.  The  breeze  lasting  but  a 
short  time,  we  made  but  little  progress  during  the 
night.  In  the  morning  we  were  in  sight  of  Cape 
Henry.  At  eight  o’clock  the  ships  were  “hove  to” 
and  the  pilots  left,  and  by  them  we  sent  our  final 
“farewells”  to  our  friends  on  shore.  At  such  a 
moment,  when  the  last  hold  on  our  country  is  sunder- 
ed from  us,  the  kinder  feelings  of  the  soul  are  awak- 
ened. Our  friends  become  more  than  ever  endeared 
to  us,  and  every  thing  connected  with  them  wears  an 
increasing  interest.  There  was  a sadness  on  the 
countenance  of  many,  and  a quivering  of  the  lips. 

Home  ! Native  country  ! How  dear  to  the  heart. 
How  each  cherished  remembrances  of  childhood’s 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


15 


scenes,  and  loved  associations  of  those  sunny  hours, 
come  rushing  up  from  the  past,  and  steal  into  the 
throbbing  bosom,  as  the  ties  of  affection  are  riven. 
The  intrusive  tear  moistens  the  eye,  as  early  fancies 
flit  before  us,  and  wend  their  silent  way  down  the 
cheek  of  youth, — the  overflowing  of  the  troubled 
waters  of  the  soul.  Affection  gladly  would  throw 
her  bands  around  the  loved  of  earth,  and  draw  them 
nearer  and  nearer,  as  the  eye  catches  the  last  glimpse 
of  boyhood’s  home  in  its  faint,  indistinct  outline,  but 
it  is  vain.  The  distant  hum  of  business  has  died 
away,  and  the  rippling  of  the  waves,  as  they  murmur 
across  the  prow,  is  heard  instead.  The  towering 
spires.,,  which  point  upward  to  the  God  of  the  “Sea 
and  the  dry  land,”  have  become  dim  in  the  distance, 
and  familiar  objects  have  blended  in  the  fast  fading 
view  of  the  distant  shore.  But  the  fancies  of  the 
past,  and  endearments  of  home,  must  give  place  to 
the  realities  of  a life  on  the  “mountain  wave.” 

The  ship,  from  the  gentleness  of  her  motion,  seemed 
less  willing  than  ourselves,  to  exchange  the  smooth 
waters  of  the  Bay  and  the  beautiful  landscapes  along 
the  shores  of  the  “Old  Dominion,”  for  the  troubled 
bosom  and  unbroken  horizon  of  the  ocean.  In  a few 
hours  afterwards  the  shores  of  our  happy  country  re- 
ceded from  our  view,  and  seemed  only  as  a speck 
upon  the  horizon. 

At  eleven  o’clock  all  hands  were  called  to  “mus- 
ter,” where  we  had  an  excellent  and  appropiate  ser- 
mon by  our  Chaplain,  Mr.  Elliott,  who  earnestly  in- 
voked “ Him  whom  the  winds  and  waves  obey,”  to 
aid  us  in  our  arduous  undertaking.  He  spoke  feel- 
ingly of  the  dangers  of  our  enterprize,  and  the  inabili- 


16 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ty  of  human  exertions,  without  the  aid  of  Him.  who, 
when  called  upon  by  his  affrighted  companions, 
“ Lord  save  us  or  we  perish,”  bade  the  angry  billows 
cease,  and  in  a moment  they  were  still. 

At  half  past  one  o’clock,  P.  M.  we  were  piped 
down,  and  at  five  o’clock  again  called  to  muster, 
when  each  mess  was  furnished  with  a Bible  and 
every  man  with  a Prayer  Book. 

The  sea  is  a fit  place  for  contemplating  the  majesty 
and  power  of  the  “ Almighty,”  where  the  air  is  calm  ; 
where  sleepeth  the  deep  waters.  What  a contrast 
when  comparing  the  smoothness  of  the  sea  yesterday, 
with  the  troubled  bosom  of  the  mighty  deep  to-day  ! 
Now  the  sea  is  running  “ mountains  high;” — yes- 
terday it  was  hushed,  and  as  smooth  as  a mirror. 
Through  the  night,  nothing  seemed  to  disturb  its 
peaceful  bosom ; but  now  and  then  the  gleaming  of  a 
shark,  or  some  monster  of  the  deep. 

Some  of  our  “green-horns”  looked  truly  pitiful. 
This  is  nothing  like  what  they  fancied  in  their  dreams 
of  a sea-life  in  their  juvenile  days,  after  listening  to 
the  yarn  of  some  “ old  tar.”  This  is  only  a prelude  to 
what  may  be  expected  before  we  accomplish  the  ob- 
ject of  the  Expedition.  During  the  day  we  shipped 
some  very  heavy  seas,  which  flooded  our  decks  from 
stem  to  stern.  During  the  next  day  the  weather  was 
clear  and  pleasant,  with  a strong  breeze,  sufficient  for 
any  ordinary  vessel  to  sail  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots. 
This  breeze  we  lost  however,  on  account  of  having  to 
lay  to,  for  the  Relief,  which  vessel  is  a very  dull 
sailer,  and  besides,  she  is  loaded  as  deep  as  she  can 
swim.  The  Captain  finding  that  he  should  be  de- 
tained if  he  continued  to  wait  for  the  Relief,  sent  or- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


17 


ders  for  her  to  make  the  best  of  her  way  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  where  the  squadron  is  to  rendezvous,  pre- 
vious to  doubling  Cape  Horn. 

For  some  time  during  the  latter  part  of  August, 
that  “ Queen  of  months  ” for  an  ocean  life,  the  ocean 
around  us  was  enlivened  by  immense  numbers  of 
flying  fish.  This  is  a beautiful  animal  about  six 
or  eight  inches  in  length,  and  of  slender  and  delicate 
form.  Until  now,  I had  an  impression  that  it  receiv- 
ed its  name  from  springing  into  the  air  for  a moment 
only,  and  then  sinking  into  its  native  element ; but  for 
several  days,  flocks  of  forty  and  fifty,  and  even  of  a 
greater  number,  have  risen  about  our  ship,  and  flown 
yards  before  descending  again. 

When  in  this  situation,  a person  ignorant  of  their 
nature  could  not  distinguish  them  from  birds  of  the 
same  size.  The  large  transparent  fins  which  they 
use  in  flying,  have  every  appearance  of  wings,  and 
when  in  a direction  opposite  to  the  sun,  their  whole 
bodies  are  of  a most  dazzling  silver  white. 

But  in  this  case,  as  well  as  in  that  of  the  dying 
dolphin,  we  have  been  led  to  commiserate  as  well  as 
to  admire.  At  most  times,  when  these  little  creatures 
take  flight,  it  is  only  to  escape  from  some  devouring 
enemy  in  close  pursuit. 

We  have  often  caught  a glimpse  of  the  dolphin 
darting  through  the  water  under  them,  as  they  have 
skimmed  along  its  surface ; and  once,  after  watching 
with  delight  the  lengthened  course  of  an  uncommon- 
ly beautiful  fish,  as  time  after  time  it  dipped  for  a 
moment  but  scarcely  touched  the  waves  before  it  rose 
again,  and  seemed  to  exert  every  power  to  pursue  its 
rapid  way,  we  saw  it  fall  directly  into  the  jaws  of 


18 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


some  ferocious  monster,  which,  as  if  doubly  ravenous 
from  the  chase,  leaped  partly  out  of  the  water  to  re- 
ceive it.  They  seem  peculiarly  ill-fated ; not  unfre- 
quently  a flight  from  their  enemies  exposes  them  to 
the  rapacity  of  others  equally  destructive,  and  they 
become  the  prey  of  gulls,  cormorants  and  other  sea 
fowl,  hovering  over  the  water  for  food.  In  their 
serial  course,  they  also  often  come  in  contact  with 
vessels,  and  fall  helpless  captives  on  their  decks. 

It  is  pleasing,  after  a long  seclusion  from  the  so- 
ciety of  our  fellows,  save  the  few  with  whom  we 
come  in  daily  contact,  during  the  monotony  of  a rou- 
tine of  duties  peculiar  to  a squadron  like  ours,  it  is 
pleasing  under  such  circumstances,  to  greet  a brother 
man.  He  may  be  an  entire  stranger,  with  whom 
we  can  have  no  cherished  reviews  of  the  past ; can 
gather  no  gems  from  the  sunny  scenes  of  childhood, 
— perchance  he  is  from  a distant  clime,  has  his  local 
prejudices,  his  sectional  animosities,  yet  he  is  a brother 
sailor,  and  is  greeted  with  the  tokens  of  friendship. 

During  the  first  of  September  we  were  favored 
with  fine  weather  and  fair  breezes,  and  were  making 
rapid  progress  toward  the  place  of  our  destination. 
It  is  under  such  circumstances  that  the  sailor  feels 
buoyant.  He  sees  no  darkening  clouds  about  him, 
no  lightning’s  glare,  no  yawning  abyss  beneath,  ready 
to  engulf  him  in  the  depths  of  ocean’s  bed,  but  his 
bark  moves  onward  in  stately  grandeur,  a “ thing  of 
life.”  He  feels  a pride,  known  only  to  the  sailor. 

At  eleven  o’clock,  September  9th,  all  hands  were 
called,  when  we  had  a sermon  from  our  Chaplain, 
from  James  5:  6,  12.  His  discourse  was  direct- 
ed principally  against  profane  swearing.  Such  ser- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


19 


vices  effectually  call  to  remembrance  scenes  of  the 
past  and  awaken  the  better  feelings  of  our  nature. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  passed  in  sight  of  Pico,  one  of 
the  Western  Islands. 

On  the  following  day  the  lookout  from  the  mast- 
head reported  “ land  ho,”  which  proved  to  be  the 
Island  of  Saint  Michaels,  another  of  the  Western 
Islands,  and  on  the  twelfth  we  were  off  Saint  Mi- 
chaels. Saint  Michaels  is  a high  and  mountainous 
Island,  and  at  the  distance  we  were  from  it,  has  a 
dreary  appearance.  But  I am  told  that  it  is  extreme- 
ly fertile,  and  produces  excellent  fruit  and  wine. 

September  4th.  This  morning  we  had  the  first 
sight  of  a dolphin,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  sea.  The  usual  length  of  this  fish 
appears  to  be  about  two  feet.  In  its  shape  it  bears  but 
little  resemblance  to  the  representation  of  it  seen  on 
vases,  &c.,  and  in  marine  emblems,  and  armorial  bear- 
ings, but  is  very  similar  to  the  white  salmon  trout, 
found  in  fresh  water  lakes.  When  swimming  in  the 
water,  its  colors  appear  exceedingly  delicate  and 
beautiful.  The  head,  back,  and  upper  part  of  the 
sides,  vary  from  the  hue  of  burnished  steel  to  that  of 
deep  azure  and  nazarine  blue,  shading  off  toward  the 
under  part  in  pea  green  and  light  yellow.  The  dol- 
phin is  often  taken  with  a hook  and  line,  but  this 
morning  one  was  struck  with  a harpoon  and  brought 
upon  deck.  I hastened  to  witness  its  colors  while 
dying.  I found  them  to  be  as  truly  beautiful  as 
they  have  been  described,  consisting  of  rapid  transi- 
tions, from  the  deepest  purple  approaching  to  black, 
through  blue,  green,  gold  of  different  hues,  and  several 
shades  of  silver,  to  almost  a snow  white,  and  then  to 


20 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


purple  again.  The  sight,  however,  was  painful  from 
a kind  of  sympathy  with  the  beautiful  sufferer.  I 
could  hut  feel  that  the  gratification  of  my  curiosity 
was  at  the  expense  of  its  life. 

The  colors  soon  became  less  and  less  brilliant,  and 
in  five  minutes  entirely  disappeared.  A large  school 
of  boneto  was  sporting  about  the  ship  in  company 
with  the  dolphin.  They  are  a very  active  fish  and 
frequently  throw  themselves  several  feet  out  of  water. 

In  a water  spout  we  have  had  one  of  those  phe- 
nomena, characteristic  of  the  region  in  which  we 
then  were.  It  was  at  too  great  a distance  to  be  seen 
very  minutely;  the  end  nearest  the  ocean  was  scarcely 
perceptible,  though  the  agitation  of  the  water  under 
it  was  quite  evident,  the  upper  extremity  terminated 
by  a tubular  expansion,  similar  in  form  to  the  large 
end  of  a trumpet,  in  a heavy  black  cloud.  The  part 
clearly  visible  was  about  three  hundred  feet  in  length 
and  the  cloud  not  less  than  fifteen  hundred  feet  in 
height. 

There  was  a shower  of  rain  almost  immediately 
afterwards,  of  the  largest  drops  I ever  saw.  It  was 
perfectly  calm,  and  the  ocean  glassy  as  a mirror, 
which  made  the  appearance  of  the  rain,  as  it  struck 
the  surface  of  the  water,  singularly  beautiful,  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  The  whole  sea  seemed  a 
plain  of  glass  studded  with  diamonds  of  the  first  mag- 
nitude. 

At  ten  o’clock  at  night,  the  exhibitions  of  the  day 
were  followed  by  a phosphoretic  scene  of  unrivaled 
beauty  and  sublimity.  I have  often  before  observed 
luminous  points,  like  sparks  of  fire  floating  here  and 
there  in  the  wake  of  our  vessel ; but  now  the  whole 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


21 


ocean  was  literally  bespangled  with  them,  notwith- 
standing the  smoothness  of  the  surface.  There  was  a 
considerable  swell  of  the  sea ; and  sparkling  as  it  did 
on  every  part  as  with  fire,  the  mighty  heavings  of  its 
bosom  were  indescribably  magnificent.  It  seemed 
as  if  the  sky  had  fallen  to  a level  with  the  ship, 
and  all  its  stars  in  ten  fold  number  and  brilliancy 
were  rolling  about  with  the  undulation  of  the  billows. 
The  horizon  in  every  direction  presented  a line  of  un- 
interrupted light,  while  the  wide  space  intervening 
was  one  extent  of  apparent  fire.  The  sides  of  our 
vessel  appeared  kindling  to  a flame,  and  the  flash  of 
the  concussion  gleamed  half  way  up  the  rigging,  and 
illumined  every  object  along  the  whole  course  of  the 
ship.  By  throwing  any  thing  over  board  a display  of 
light  and  colors  took  place,  surpassing  in  beauty  and 
brilliancy  the  finest  exhibition  of  fireworks.  The 
rudder  too,  by  its  motion,  created  splendid  corrusca- 
tions  at  the  stern,  and  a flood  of  light,  by  which  our 
track  was  marked  far  behind  us.  The  smaller  fishes 
were  distinctly  traceable  by  running  lines,  showing 
their  rapid  course  ; while  now  and  then  broad  gleam- 
ings,  extending  many  yards  in  every  direction, 
made  known  the  movement  of  some  monster  of  the 
deep.  But  minuteness  will  only  weary,  without  con- 
veying any  adequate  impression  of  the  scene. 

It  would  have  been  wise  perhaps  only  to  have  said 
that  it  was  among  the  most  sublime  scenes  which  na- 
ture herself  ever  presents.  The  cause  of  this  phe- 
nomenon was  long  a subject  of  speculation  among 
men  of  science,  but  is  now  satisfactorily  ascertained 
to  be  sea  animalcules  of  the  luminous  tribe,  partic- 
ularly the  species  Medusa. 


22 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


Captain  A.  K.  Long,  of  the  ship  Relief,  took  great 
pains  in  examining  this  subject  with  great  minute- 
ness. 

The  weather  is  still  favorable,  and  the  breeze  pro- 
pitious. At  daylight  the  island  of  Madeira,  just  ap- 
peared in  sight,  was  looming  above  the  watery  hori- 
zon. About  three  o’clock,  P.  M.  we  came  up  with 
these  justly  celebrated  islands,  and  I need  not  at- 
tempt a description  of  the  sublime  and  picturesque 
scenery,  or  the  rich  and  highly  cultivated  hills.  At 
sunset  we  arrived  off  the  town  of  Funchal,  and  came 
to  anchor  in  Funchal  Roads  near  the  town. 

Soon  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  received  a visit 
from  the  American  Consul,  who  frequently  visited 
our  ship  during  our  stay. 

The  Madeira  Islands  consist  of  Madeira  Parto 
Santo  and  the  Desert  Isles.  Madeira,  the  principal 
island,  is  distinguished  for  its  wines,  whieh  are  ex- 
ported to  various  parts  of  the  world;  its  capital  is 
Funchal. 

These  islands  belong  to  Portugal,  and  have  a pop- 
ulation of  ninety  thousands,  including  blacks. 

After  our  arrival  here,  the  officers  and  scientific 
gentlemen  were  busily  engaged  in  examining  the  isl- 
ands, and  making  observations,  and  measuring  the 
height  of  some  of  the  loftiest  mountains.  The  wea- 
ther was  fine  and  beautiful,  and  the  country  in  every 
direction  was  clothed  in  green  verdure.  Our  ship 
was  furnished  with  a plenty  of  excellent  beef  and 
vegetables,  and  also  fruit  in  abundance.  I suppose 
there  is  no  place  in  the  known  world  which  pro- 
duces finer  beef,  vegetables  and  fruit,  than  this  isl- 
and. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


23 


The  island  is  under  the  government  of  Portugal, 
and  the  natives  seem  to  be  quite  loyal  to  the  present 
Queen  Donna  Maria.  Its  capital,  Funchal,  is  a 
handsome  little  town,  containing  some  six  or  eight 
thousand  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  he  a gay  and  live- 
ly people,  and  remarkably  hospitable.  Like  other 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  towns,  it  has  its  number  of 
churches  and  convents,  which  were  mostly  illuminat- 
ed the  first  part  of  the  night. 

At  two  o’clock,  P.  M.,  on  the  following  day,  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  bid  adieu  to  this  truly  beautiful 
island — squadron  in  company. 

After  leaving  Madeira,  we  had  delightful  weather 
with  fine  cool  breezes.  At  four  o’clock,  P.  M,  we 
passed  the  Island  Mayo,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verd  Isl- 
ands, and  at  midnight  lay  to  off  the  Island  of  San 
Jago,  the  principal  Island  of  the  Cape  de  Yerds. 

October  6th,  we  were  off  the  island.  At  nine 
o’clock,  A.  M.,  came  to  anchor  off  the  town  of  Porto 
Praya,  and  soon  after  received  a visit  from  Mr.  Gar- 
dener, American  Consul. 

Cape  De  Yerd  Islands,  discovered  in  1460  by  the 
Portuguese  and  still  subject  to  the  crown  of  Portugal, 
form  a group  of  about  twenty  in  number,  including 
those  of  a smaller  size,  which  are  unimportant.  They 
formerly  contained  a population  of  about  twenty 
thousands,  but  at  present  are  very  sparsely  inhabited. 
They  are  all  more  or  less  mountainous,  with  scarcely 
enough  vegetation  to  support  themselves  and  cattle. 
The  people,  isolated  as  they  were  from  the  world,  with 
most  of  the  channels  of  communication  cut  off  be- 
tween them  and  the  other  countries,  are  dependent 
chiefly  for  whatever  sustenance  their  own  islands  do 


24 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


not  afford,  upon  vessels  casually  stopping  at  them. 
The  trade  is  generally  carried  on  by  barter.  From 
the  time  of  their  first  discovery  they  have  been  sub- 
ject at  intervals  to  severe  drought  and  famine.  The 
rain  of  heaven  is  often  withheld  for  several  years  in 
succession,  at  which  time  all  the  sources  of  fertility 
are  dried  up,  and  the  people  and  their  cattle  perish 
for  the  want  of  food  and  water.  It  is  not  surprising 
to  learn  that  so  many  have  perished  from  famine. 
The  most  deadly  famine  took  place  in  1832,  when  one 
half  of  the  inhabitants  lost  their  lives,  and  all  their 
cattle  died.  Large  donations  were  made  in  New 
York  and  other  parts  of  the  United  States  for  their 
relief,  with  which  provisions  were  purchased  and 
sent  them. 

Coffee  and  sugar  are  raised  in  some  parts  of  the  isl- 
and, but  not  in  any  abundance.  We  saw  herds  of 
cattle  and  some  thousands  of  goats  grazing  on  the  de- 
clivities of  the  mountain.  The  inhabitants,  from  in- 
termixture, have  become  almost  of  the  negro  com- 
plexion and  features. 

Porto  Praya  is  the  capital  of  San  Jago. 

On  the  27th  of  October,  we  got  underway  and 
stood  out  to  sea  with  a pleasant  breeze.  On  the  29th 
a sail  was  reported  in  sight,  and,  as  we  were  near  the 
coast  of  Africa,  we  were  suspicious  that  she  was  a 
slaver.  Spy-glasses  were  eagerly  raised,  and  her 
manoeuvres  closely  watched ; however,  she  soon  ran 
away  from  us. 

On  the  12th  and  13th,  large  schools  of  dolphin 
played  about  our  vessel,  and  a number  of  them  were 
caught,  and  notwithstanding  our  medical  officers  said 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


25 


they  were  sometimes  poisonous,  they  were  eaten 
without  feeling  any  inconvenience  from  them. 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  until  near  the  close 
of  November,  when  land  was  reported,  which  proved 
to  be  Cape  Frio,  a high  and  irregular  point  of  land 
forty  miles  distant.  On  the  same  evening,  we  came 
to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  after  a 
passage  of  ninety-five  days  from  Hampton  Roads. 
Found  the  United  States  ship  Independence  and  a 
number  of  English  and  French  ships  of  war,  also 
merchant  ships  of  all  nations. 

Two  days  after  my  arrival  I embraced  the  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  the  shore,  and  commenced  my  ob- 
servations upon  the  Brazilians. 

On  entering  the  capacious  harbor  of  Rio,  you  pass 
the  frowning  batteries  of  Fort  Santa  Cruz  at  the  foot 
of  Signal  Hill  on  the  right  hand,  and  on  the  left  Fort 
Saint  Lucia,  built  on  a small  island  near  the  main 
land,  and  another  small  one  a little  to  the  eastward  of 
Sugar  Loaf  Hill,  so  called  from  its  shape,  which  is 
one  immense  isolated  rock,  and  lifts  its  almost  per- 
pendicular sides  to  the  clouds,  a lower  tier  of  which 
perpetually  crowns  its  barren  head.  It  is  about  one 
thousand  feet  high,  said  to  have  been  inaccessible  to 
all  save  an  Englishman,  who  by  some  mysterious 
means  ascended  it,  and  raised  thereon  the  flag  of  his 
country,  as  a proud  signal  of  his  exploit.  Whether 
he  fell  from  the  rock  into  the  deep  beneath,  or  was 
slain  by  some  hired  assassin,  is  not  and  probably 
never  will  be  known.  Some  of  the  officers  of  the 
Expedition  have  succeeded  in  reaching  its  high- 
est summit,  and  there  unfurled  the  star-spangled 
3 


26 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


banner;  ” they  remained  upon  it  all  night,  and  in  the 
morning  descended  again  and  returned  in  safety  to 
the  ship. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Description  of  Rio  de  Janeiro — Emperor’s  Palace — Celebration 
of  the  Emperor’s  Birth — Imperial  Church  Chapel — Church,  and 
the  Vow  of  the  Empress — Sectional  differences — Funeral  oc- 
casion. 


11 1 love  the  blue  waters  ! their  deep  maddening  roar, 

Is  food  for  a spirit  unbounded  by  shore  j 

Thy  whirlwinds  may  shriek — thy  lightnings  may  flash, 

Yet  safe  o’er  thy  bosom,  old  ocean,  I’ll  dash.” 

Rio  de  Janeiro  is  built  at  the  entrance  of  a bay  one 
hundred  miles  in  circumference,  intersected  here  and 
there  with  small  islands  covered  with  evergreen. 
The  city  contains  about  one  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants, including  the  suburbs  Gloria  Hill  and  Bo- 
tofoga. 

The  buildings  are  of  stone,  three  or  four  stories 
high,  the  streets  very  narrow  and  long,  wearing  an 
unpleasant  and  sombre  appearance,  produced  by  the 
wide-spreading  and  clumsy  verandahs  that  disfigure 
almost  every  street.  Like  the  generality  of  Spanish 
and  Portuguese  towns,  it  is  extremely  filthy,  and  for 
the  want  of  the  indispensable  conduits  in  cities,  to 
wit,  sewers , the  streets  become  the  common  receptacle 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


27 


of  excrementitious  abomination  and  filth.  The  slave 
population,  and  it  is  very  considerable,  is  altogether 
more  miserable  and  wretched  than  any  thing  my  im- 
agination could  have  previously  depicted.  The 
slaves  are  driven  about  the  streets,  yoked  together  by 
dozens,  with  a necklace  of  iron  almost  as  delicate 
and  slender  as  our  chain  cable,  each  carrying  on  his 
head  a ten  gallon  bucket  of  water,  and  some  with 
bags  of  coffee  and  other  heavy  loads  on  their  heads. 
All  slaves  are  in  a perfect  state  of  nudity,  except  the 
covering  afforded  by  a small  piece  of  dirty  rag  which 
is  tied  about  the  loins.  The  noise  which  they  make 
when  departing  in  droves  from  the  public  fountains, 
gives  the  most  perfect  idea  of  a pandemonium  that 
can  well  be  imagined. 

The  Emperor’s  Palace  is  in  full  view  from  our  ship, 
and  is  opposite  the  only  landing  for  boats  on  the 
beach.  I had  paid  it  a visit,  and  taken  a full  view, 
both  interior  and  exterior.  The  fact  that  it  is  a pal- 
ace, is  the  only  thing  that  recommends  it  to  a pass- 
ing notice. 

It  formerly  was  the  residence  of  the  Vice  Roy,  and 
for  such  a dignitary  good  enough.  The  present  Em- 
peror does  not  reside  here,  but  has  his  palace  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city.  He  is  a young  man  of  about 
nineteen  years  of  age ; his  father,  Don  Pedro  the  first, 
abdicated  the  crown,  and  he  became  the  natural  suc- 
cessor when  quite  an  infant ; — since  that  time  the 
kingdom  of  Brazil  has  been  governed  by  a Regency. 

Yesterday  was  his  birth-day,  on  which  occasion  he 
paid  a visit  to  the  city  in  commemoration  of  that 
event.  The  streets,  through  which  he  passed,  were 
handsomely  decorated  with  flags,  artificial  flowers 


28 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


and  tapestry  of  different  hues  and  shades.  Arches 
in  several  places  were  built  across  the  streets  through 
which  he  passed  on  his  way  to  the  old  palace,  and 
were  decorated  with  every  thing  which  the  imagina- 
tion could  devise.  The  square  in  front  of  the  pal- 
ace was  literally  filled  with  spectators  of  all  shades 
and  colors,  anxiously  waiting  to  get  a glimpse  of  his 
Royal  Highness,  as  he  entered  the  palace.  This 
novel  scene  did  not  attract  my  attention,  and  I saw 
but  little  in  it  that  was  at  all  interesting,  therefore  I 
did  not  remain  long  to  gaze  on  it.  The  ships  in  the 
harbor,  as  well  as  the  city,  were  richly  dressed  in  flags, 
and  at  twelve  o’clock  a royal  salute  was  fired  from  all 
the  batteries,  and  answered  by  the  vessels  of  war  in 
the  harbor. 

But  to  return  to  the  description  of  Rio.  The  pal- 
ace is  a parallelogram  of  about  two  hundred  feet  in 
length  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  front.  It  is 
enclosed,  but  contains  a court  yard  in  the  centre,  on 
one  side  of  which  is  the  Senate  house, — the  house  of 
Deputies  being  a mile  distant  in  the  Campo  de  Ac- 
langao — and  on  the  other  a splendid  church  belong- 
ing to  the  Carmonite  monks,  adjoining  the  beautiful 
little  imperial  chapel.  It  is  said  that  this  church  was 
built  by  the  late  Empress  Don  Pedro,  in  consequence 
of  a vow  made  to  the  goddess  of  fecundity.  The  story 
runs  thus; — she  had  been  married  some  time  without 
becoming  a mother,  and  in  a fit  of  united  piety  and 
philoprogenitiveness,  she  vowed  that  should  she  be 
served  as  Sarah  of  old  was,  she  would  build  a church 
on  the  glorious  occasion.  Her  prayers  were  heard, 
and  she  became  a mother,  and  as  truly  did  she  build 
this  pretty  little  church  as  commemorative  of  this 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


29 


miraculous  event.  This  story  is  figuratively  told  by 
six  or  seven  statues  of  the  Empress,  placed  in  the 
church  in  appropriate  niches,  on  the  right  hand  side 
as  you  enter,  beautifully  modeled  and  richly  decorat- 
ed with  diamonds ; all  are  arranged  in  the  delineating 
style,  singularly  indicative  of  the  event  which  they 
are  designed  to  describe  hieroglyphically.  The  his- 
toric delineation  is  ingenious  and  skilfully  develops 
the  different  eras ; and  the  last  one  as  you  approach 
the  altar  closes  the  representations,  by  presenting  the 
heavenly  babe  full  of  infantile  beauty  and  plumpness, 
in  the  joyous  arms  of  the  certainly  handsome  and 
modest  young  Empress. 

No  person  may  deny  but  that  this  is  a perfectly 
natural  scene,  and  also  a truly  modest  one,  to  those 
who  are  accustomed  to  look  upon  it  as  a miracle 
rather  than  a mere  picture  of  'u  the  fancy;”  but  in  a 
country  like  the  United  States,  where  a rigid  code  of 
delicacy  is  so  strictly  observed,  certain  things  would 
be  viewed  with  horror,  that  in  another  are  looked 
upon  coldly,  as  capable  of  exciting  neither  animal 
passion  or  latent  curiosity. 

In  fact,  local  custom  is  the  only  true  standard  of 
delicacy,  and  as  every  country  has  its  customs,  so 
has  it  also  a different  scale  of  modesty,  and  peculiar 
motives  of  social  intercourse.  Take  for  example  two 
ladies,  one  a North,  and  the  other  a South  American, 
equal  in  their  country’s  refinement  and  cultivation  of 
mind,  yet  I dare  affirm  both  would  be  simultaneously 
shocked  at  each  other’s  want  of  delicacy  upon  many 
occasions.  This,  of  course,  must  be  peculiarly  ob- 
servable in  the  inhabitants  of  isolated  countries,  where 
intercourse  to  any  considerable  extent  is  impractica- 
3* 


30 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ble.  Generosity,  truth,  gratitude  and  honesty,  are 
intrinsically  the  same  in  every  section  of  the  world, 
but  that  which  we  understand  by  the  name  of  mod- 
esty, or  female  purity  of  action,  varies  with  latitude 
and  climate,  and  in  fact  is  almost  provincial  in  its  de- 
finition. The  South  American  lady,  who  jumps  into 
her  saddle,  rides  off  on  horseback  like  a man,  with  a 
poncho  thrown  gracefully  over  the  shoulders,  may 
have  as  lofty  notions  of  true  delicacy  as  she  who  flirts 
along  Broadway  or  Washington  street,  attended  by 
one  who  apparently  has  as  good  a claim  to  a forest 
origin  as  the  noble  animal  upon  which  he  rides,  and 
over  which  he  seems  to  wish  for  a superiority,  from 
the  fact  that  he  is  the  director,  not  the  directed. 

Whilst  one  day  standing  in  the  church  and  looking 
with  a delightful  eye  upon  some  truly  splendid  and 
masterly  pieces  of  scriptural  paintings,  a corpse  was 
brought  into  the  aisle  and  laid  near  the  altar.  The 
friends  of  the  deceased  arranged  themselves  on  each 
side  of  the  way  from  the  door  to  the  altar.  No  fe- 
male was  present,  as  I have  elsewhere  observed  on 
many  like  occasions.  Wax  candles  were  brought 
and  handed  around  weighing  upwards  of  ten  pounds, 
which  were  six  feet  long,  they  having  been  previous- 
ly lighted.  The  priests  made  a grand  entry  from  the 
sacriste,  dressed  in  full  splendor  of  sacerdotal  attire, 
some  with  service  books  in  their  hands  and  others 
bearing  gold  and  silver  censers,  which  sent  forth  in 
downy  clouds,  the  combined  odors  of  myrrh  and 
frankincense.  The  pall  was  removed,  the  coffin  was 
opened,  and  holy  water  sprinkled  upon  the  satin 
robes  of  the  dead.  I looked  around  me  for  tombs  or 
for  the  grave,  but  saw  nothing  of  either. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


31 


The  priest  carried  the  body  three  times  round  the 
enclosure,  and  at  last  deposited  it  in  a niche  in  the 
wall,  merely  large  enough  for  the  coffin,  and  here 
with  a hammer  and  a trowel  the  masons  completed 
the  interment. 

It  is  no  doubt  known  to  some  of  our  readers,  and  to 
some  it  may  not  be,  that  Bonaparte  sent  from  the  court 
of  Portugal,  King  John  and  his  wife  to  the  court  of 
Brazil.  King  John  was  the  first  European  monarch 
who  sat  foot  upon  the  American  Continent.  He 
made  Rio  de  Janeiro  the  seat  of  government,  and  dur- 
ing his  reign  the  court  of  Brazil  was  proverbially  one 
of  the  most  licentious  upon  earth.  King  John  him- 
self was  one  of  the  greatest  libertines  that  the  world 
ever  produced,  and  stopped  short  of  nothing  to  satisfy 
his  sensual  pleasures. 

I visited  the  shore  on  the  10th  and  again  witnessed 
the  brutal  manner  in  which  slaves  are  treated. 
Could  the  abolitionists  of  the  United  States  witness 
the  evil  of  slavery,  as  it  is  seen  in  all  its  deformity 
here,  they  might  more  strongly  enforce  their  favorite 
doctrine.  Indeed,  one  who  has  been  accustomed  to 
slavery  from  his  childhood,  as  it  exists  in  the  United 
States,  might  be  shocked  in  walking  the  streets  of  Rio, 
at  the  abject  condition  of  the  slaves,  and  the  brutal 
manner  in  which  they  are  treated.  When  the  slave 
becomes  diseased  he  is  cast  on  the  world,  to  get  his 
living  in  the  best  manner  he  can ; and  many  would 
actually  die  from  want,  were  it  not  for  the  charities 
of  the  monastic  establishments,  and  the  small  sums 
occasionally  contributed  by  strangers.  I have  fre- 
quently been  accosted  by  these  pitiable  objects,  and 
as  I have  thrown  them  a few  vintons,  a smile  of  joy 


32 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


would  illumine  their  countenances,  as  if  some  dread 
apprehensions  had  been  removed  from  their  mind. 
Notwithstanding  their  charitable  institutions,  great 
numbers  die  annually  from  their  deplorable  condition. 
It  is  said  that  thousands  of  these  miserable  objects 
are  transported  annually  into  this  kingdom,  although 
it  is  a contraband  trade. 

Since  our  arrival,  two  slave  vessels  have  been 
brought  into  port  by  an  English  man-of-war  brig. 

Rio  de  Janeiro  is  celebrated  for  its  many  and  mag- 
nificent churches.  The  people  generally  are  strict 
Catholics,  and  droves  of  them  may  be  seen  every 
morning  entering  the  church  to  pay  their  early  devo- 
tions at  the  holy  altar.  The  English  and  American 
residents  have  a neat  little  church  near  the  public 
gardens,  enclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  with  a yard  in 
front,  paved  with  granite.  It  was  built  in  1820,  and 
will  hold  about  five  hundred  people  very  comfortably. 
The  clergyman  is  of  the  Episcopal  order,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  the  English  and  American  residents  and 
by  the  English  government.  The  city  is  ornamented 
by  several  fountains  made  of  granite,  which  are  sup- 
plied with  water  from  the  neighboring  mountains,  by 
means  of  an  aqueduct  some  miles  in  extent,  similar 
to  those  mentioned  in  Roman  history.  Tt  is  the  best 
specimen  of  architecture  of  which  Rio  can  boast. 
Several  other  public  buildings  are  to  be  found  here, 
such  as  a Museum,  a Public  Library  and  a number 
of  convents. 

Since  our  arrival  here,  Captain  Wilkes  has  been  on 
shore  with  all  of  his  scientific  instruments,  making 
observations. 

At  nine  o’clock,  A.  M.,  January  7th,  a light  wind 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


33 


springing  up  we  weighed  our  anchor  and  proceeded  to 
sea — squadron  in  company.  We  were  now  favored 
with  fine  weather  and  a moderate  breeze.  At  four 
o’clock,  P.  M.,  we  were  just  losing  sight  of  the  coast  of 
Brazil.  The  bleak  and  lofty  mountains  were  fast  re- 
ceding from  our  view,  and  in  a short  time  were  en- 
tirely swallowed  up  in  the  distance.  The  first  part 
of  this  month  was  peculiarly  pleasant  ; but  we 
were  destined,  however,  to  experience  some  little 
change.  How  very  illustrative  of  human  life  ! The 
morning  of  the  15th  set  in  cloudy,  and  at  eight  o’clock 
A.  M.,  commenced  raining  with  considerable  wind, 
which  soon  increased  to  a gale.  At  ten  o’clock  all 
hands  were  called  to  reef  topsails,  when  we  got  a severe 
pelting  of  rain.  This,  however,  from  its  frequent  oc- 
currence, the  sailor  thinks  but  little  of.  His  life  is 
emphatically  one  of  toil  and  hardship.  And  yet  amid 
all  of  his  privations,  he  receives  comparatively  but 
little  sympathy  from  those  who  are  so  dependent 
upon  him  for  the  luxuries,  and  to  some  extent,  the 
necessaries  of  life.  While  the  sensualist  is  feasting 
upon  the  delicacies  of  distant  climes,  as  the  highest 
gratification  of  which  his  nature  is  susceptible,  like 
the  swine  that  feeds  voraciously  upon  the  bounty 
shaken  in  plenty  from  above  him,  knows  not  and 
cares  not  from  whence  they  came,  or  with  what  toil 
they  were  obtained.  Appetite,  beast-like,  must  be 
gratified,  and  thoughts  of  the  sailor  are  as  unusual  as 
emotions  of  gratitude,  in  such  depraved  bosoms.  Yet 
a brighter  day  is  about  to  dawn  upon  the  sailor ; his 
cries  are  to  be  heard,  and  his  claims  acknowledged. 

We  had  at  this  time  nearly  the  same  kind  of 
weather  that  we  generally  have  in  the  United  States 


34 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


in  the  latter  part  of  March.  At  ten  o’clock,  spoke  the 
American  whaling  ship  Leander  of  New  York,  six 
months  and  a half  out,  with  three  hundred  and 
twenty  barrels  of  sperm  oil.  Shortly  after,  spoke  a 
Dutch  brig  bound  to  the  Falkland  Islands. 

Just  as  we  had  finished  our  breakfast  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  21st,  the  appalling  cry  of  “a  man  over- 
board!” resounded  throughout  the  ship.  We  imme- 
diately hove  to,  and  he  being  a good  swimmer,  reach- 
ed the  man-rope  at  the  gangway  in  safety. 

An  effort  to  give  a just  description  of  scenes  like 
this,  although,  in  this  instance,  we  were  unusually 
fortunate,  need  not  be  attempted.  It  will  prove  a 
failure.  The  feelings  of  one  struggling  against  the 
mighty  power  of  overwhelming  billows,  with  no 
gleam  of  hope  from  his  “ little  world  ” from  which  he 
has  been  suddenly  ejected ; tossed  and  driven  upon  a 
wide  expanse  of  waters — to  appreciate  the  thick- 
crowding emotions  of  one  under  such  circumstances, 
there  must  be  something  approximating  nearer  to  the 
reality  than  the  tame  and  unmeaning  recital  of  the 
narrator.  The  gloom  which  pervades  the  surviving 
crew,  when  even  “one  of  the  few”  is  taken  hurried- 
ly from  them,  is  not  easily  described.  Even  the  loss 
of  one , forms  no  inconsiderable  fraction  of  such  a min- 
iature of  the  community.  In  the  usual  routine  of  du- 
ties, it  is  often  observed  that  one  is  far  from  them 
and  sleeps  beneath  the  ever-restless  bosom  of  their 
chosen  element. 

Our  latitude  was  now  forty-one  degrees  south,  tem- 
perature ranging  from  sixty-five  to  seventy  degrees. 
A seal  was  seen  playing  in  the  wake  of  our  vessel ; 
this  circumstance  induced  us  to  believe  that  land  was 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


35 


not  far  distant ; whales  have  been  seen  sporting  about 
in  every  direction,  and  also  several  sharks  paid  us  a 
visit  alongside  and  waited  on  the  top  of  the  water 
some  moments  for  something  to  satisfy  their  vora- 
cious appetites. 

At  daylight  on  the  25th,  land  was  reported  from 
mast  head,  and  at  five  o’clock  we  came  to  anchor  in 
five  fathoms  water,  off  Rio  Negro,  coast  of  Patagonia. 
Immediately  after  dropping  anchor  we  had  a severe 
gale  of  wind  and  rain,  which  induced  us  to  make 
speedy  preparations  to  brave  the  dangers  of  an  ocean 
life. 

After  our  arrival  here,  our  scientific  gentlemen 
went  ashore  in  quest  of  objects  in  their  different  de- 
partments, and  the  other  officers  were  busily  engaged 
in  surveying,  6c c.  There  is  a considerable  Spanish 
settlement  on  this  coast,  about  twenty  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  #nd  also  a village  of  from  one  to 
two  thousand  inhabitants,  the  principal  part  of  whom 
are  soldiers.  The  squadron,  when  it  appeared  off  the 
harbor,  caused  considerable  excitement  among  the  in- 
habitants; the  most  of  them  fled  into  the  country; 
mistaking  us  for  a French  squadron,  with  which  na- 
tion they  are  at  war.  They  soon  found  out  their 
mistake  and  returned.  There  is  a monthly  inter- 
course from  this  port  to  Buenos  Ayres,  to  which  gov- 
ernment this  colony  belongs.  This  region  of  Patago- 
nia abounds  in  all  kinds  of  game,  excellent  horses 
and  horned  cattle.  Our  men  brought  off  several  ar- 
madillos and  young  ostriches,  and  some  ostrich  eggs 
for  curiosities. 

January  30th.  This  morning  a strong  gale  sprung 
up,  blowing  immediately  on  the  land,  which,  from  our 


36 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


exposed  situation,  compelled  us  to  get  underway  and 
beat  out  to  sea.  The  Peacock  in  company ; also  the 
brig  Porpoise — the  two  latter  being  compelled  to  slip 
their  cables  and  leave  their  anchors  behind. 

On  the  following  day,  however,  the  weather  so  far 
changed,  that  we  thought  it  advisable  to  return  to 
Rio  Negro,  in  order  to  get  a boat’s  crew  that  had  de- 
serted from  the  boat  and  been  left  behind. 

Having  succeeded  in  regaining  the  men  we  again 
got  underway  and  stood  out  to  sea;  squadron  in  com- 
pany. 

The  weather  now  begins  to  grow  cool,  the  ther- 
mometer ranging  from  forty-five  to  fifty  degrees  in 
the  shade  on  the  spar  deck,  and  between  decks  at 
sixty  degrees. 

Our  ship  glides  through  the  water  like  a thing  of 
life.  At  sunset  there  was  a large  school  of  porpoises 
alongside,  and  we  succeeded  iii  taking  one,  which 
made  a fresh  “ mess  ” for  all  hands.  The  flesh  of  the 
porpoise  has  no  appearance  or  taste  of  fish,  but  more 
resembles  beef; — only  it  is  much  darker.  I tasted 
some  of  it  and  liked  it  very  much.  Our  latitude 
about  this  time,  by  observation,  was  fifty  degrees 
thirty  minutes  south,  and  our  longitude  sixty  three 
degrees  Ihirty  minutes  west. 

At  midnight  of  the  following  day,  we  had  a partial 
view  of  the  rugged  peaks  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  and  at 
eight  o’clock,  A.  M.,  entered  the  straits  of  La  Maire. 
The  land  here  presents  rather  a dreary  appearance ; 
the  high  peaks  on  either  hand  are  covered  with  per- 
petual snow,  although  it  is  mid-summer  here.  At 
sunset  we  passed  the  straits,  and  again  entered  the 
open  sea  with  land  on  the  starboard  bow.  We  hove 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


37 


to  off  Cape  Horn,  the  night  being  dark  and  bluster- 
ing. 

We  made  but  little  progress  after  weighing  our  an- 
chor on  the  following  morning,  in  consequence  of  the 
unfavorableness  of  the  weather.  The  country  here 
presents  nothing  but  snow-clad  mountains  and  barren 
rocks : no  sign  of  vegetation,  except  here  and  there  a 
stunted  tree. 

We  were  passing  Cape  Horn,  within  a few  miles  of 
the  shore,  with  studding  sails  set  on  both  sides.  It 
is  very  seldom  that  such  a thing  happens,  for  Cape 
Horn  is  denominated  the  “ stormy  Cape,”  as  vessels 
seldom,  if  ever,  pass  it  without  experiencing  very 
boisterous  weather.  It  was  cloudy  and  nearly  calm 
however,  on  the  17th,  and  we  were  engaged  all  day  in 
beating  up  to  our  anchorage. 

After  a weary  and  sleepless  night  in  working  the 
ship  up  here,  we  dropped  anchor  about  six  o’clock  in 
the  morning  in  sixteen  fathoms  water.  This  was  a 
most  delightful  day,  thermometer  in  the  shade,  sixty 
four  degrees.  The  bay  and  country  around  had  quite 
a different  appearance  from  what  I expected. 

At  noon  a native  canoe  came  alongside,  having  on 
board  two  men,  one  woman  and  a child,  but  we  were 
so  busily  engaged  mooring  the  ship,  that  we  could 
pay  no  attention  to  them. 

Here  also  our  officers  and  scientific  gentlemen  went 
on  shore,  and  killed  a number  of  geese,  ducks,  and 
shore  birds,  but  with  the  exception  of  one  variety, 
to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  steam  boat  geese,  are 
much  smaller  than  ours,  and  of  a richer  plumage. 

The  Relief  was  ordered  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  run 
a line  of  soundings  along  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  and 
4 


38 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


also  to  examine  the  shoals  which  are  said  to  exist  on 
that  coast.  This  work  was  performed  much  to  the 
satisfaction  of  Captain  Wilkes.  She  stood  several 
times  close  in  to  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  and  twice  so 
near  that  the  lamas  could  be  seen  feeding  in  herds  on 
the  declivities  of  the  hills.  She  came  to  anchor  twice 
along  the  coast ; the  harbors  were  unprotected  from 
the  violence  of  the  waves,  therefore  she  could  not  re- 
main at  anchor  long  enough  to  examine  the  shores  or 
any  part  of  the  interior. 

She  visited  most  of  the  harbors  in  the  straits  of  Le 
Mair,  which  we  passed  without  noticing,  and  had  in- 
tercourse with  the  natives.  The  principal  one  was 
Good  Success  Bay.  On  the  2d  January,  she  anchored 
in  this  bay  and  in  the  evening  Captain  Long,  accom- 
panied by  some  of  the  officers  and  scientific  gentle- 
men, visited  the  shore.  They  landed  in  a cove  near 
the  southern  end  of  the  bay,  where  they  found  a 
stream  of  water  about  forty  feet  wide,  which  dis- 
charges itself  in  the  bay : — the  water  was  of  a dark 
color,  but  of  an  excellent  quality.  Some  of  the  party 
attempted  the  ascent  of  the  highest  mountain.  They 
found  the  ascent,  in  consequence  of  the  vegetation 
and  looseness  of  the  soil,  extremely  laborious.  But 
by  perseverance  they  succeeded  in  gaining  the  sum- 
mit, when  they  found  themselves  amply  repaid  for 
their  trouble,  in  the  romantic  and  picturesque  scenery 
which  the  country  afforded.  They  had  also  a com- 
manding view  of  the  bay,  and  an  indistinct  view  of 
Staten  Island,  besides  several  small  islands  that  in- 
terspersed the  bay.  Some  of  the  party  took  their  guns, 
expecting  to  find  plenty  of  game,  but  were  disap- 
pointed, for  not  a living  animal  of  any  kind  was  seen. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


39 


CHAPTER  III. 


Interview  with  the  Natives — Orange  Harbor — Interview  with 
another  party  of  Natives — Return  of  a part  of  the  Squadron — 
Valparaiso — -The  Cemetery. 


u And  over  head 

And  all  around,  wind  warred  with  wind,  storm  howled 
To  storm,  and  lightning,  forked  lightning  crossed, 
And  thunder  answered  thsnder,  mattering  sounds 
Of  sullen  wrath.” 


Next  morning  we  got  underway  and  stood  out  of 
the  harbor  with  a fine  breeze,  but  it  soon  died  away 
and  the  ship  drifted  back  into  the  bay  and  we  again 
came  to  anchor.  At  six  o’clock  several  natives  were 
seen  coming  near  the  ship,  and  in  order  to  attract  our 
attention,  commenced  a piteous  yell.  This  not  a lit- 
tle surprised  them,  for  no  sign  of  a native  had  been 
seen  on  the  preceding  day. 

Captain  Long,  accompanied  by  several  officers, 
left  the  ship  in  three  armed  boats  for  the  purpose  of 
having  communication  with  them.  On  landing,  the 
natives  came  running  towards  them  and  showed  evi- 
dent signs  of  their  being  welcomed  to  their  shores, 
and  commenced  crying  u Cuchilb  / Cuckillo  /”  and 
as  cuchillo  is  the  Spanish  for  knives,  and  as  Waddell 
in  his  book  says  they  have  many  Spanish  words  in 
their  language,  it  was  thought  at  first  that  they  were 
asking  if  we  have  any  knives  to  sell;  but  when 


40 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


knives  were  shown  them,  they  still  continued  their 
cries.  When  a looking  glass  was  shown  them  and  a 
string  of  beads,  they  appeared  pleased,  but  still  the 
word  was  kept  up  during  the  whole  intercourse,  and 
it  was  impossible  to  learn  its  meaning.  Our  own 
words  they  would  easily  repeat  and  even  seemed  to 
understand  some  of  them.  They  set  great  value  on 
steel  and  iron,  and  would  readily  exchange  their 
bows  and  arrows  for  a piece  of  iron  hoop  or  a few 
rusty  nails : some  of  the  arrows  were  neatly  made, 
with  flint  heads. 

This  party  consisted  of  fourteen  men,  and  with  the 
exception  of  the  chief,  were  all  young,  well  made 
and  good  looking.  They  were  full  six  feet  high,  well 
modeled,  and  had  very  pleasing  countenances.  They 
all  had  their  hair  cut  short  on  the  top  of  the  head, 
and  their  faces  smeared  with  a kind  of  clay,  something 
like  red  ocre.  Their  dress  consisted  of  a single  guaco 
skin,  which,  when  put  properly  on,  covered  their 
bodies  as  far  down  as  the  knees ; but  they  were  not 
pauicular  on  this  point,  and  often  exposed  themselves 
to  a shameful  degree.  Most  of  them  were  troubled 
with  a disease  of  the  eye,  which  may  perhaps  be  at- 
tributed to  their  long  winters,  when  the  ground  is  cov- 
ered with  snow,  which  dazzles  their  eyes  in  the  open 
air.  It  seems  quite  evident  that  they  have  had  inter- 
course with  the  Europeans  before,  for  the  report  of 
guns  did  not  frighten  them  in  the  least.  All  endeav- 
ors to  entice  them  on  board  proved  unavailing ; they 
shook  their  heads  and  pointed  to  the  woods,  and  then 
ran  some  distance  from  the  boat. 

From  here  the  Relief  touched  at  New  Island,  and 
came  to  anchor  and  examined  the  shore,  but  found  no 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


41 


natives.  From  the  marks  that  were  seen,  it  is  very- 
evident  that  natives  had  been  recently  there. 

Her  next  place  of  anchorage  was  in  a small  bay 
about  twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  Orange  Harbor, 
called  Nassau  Bay.  They  were  there  visited  by  na- 
tives entirely  different  from  those  seen  at  Good  Suc- 
cess., She  had  scarcely  got  her  anchor  down  when  a 
canoe  full  of  natives  came  alongside, — three  men, 
one  woman,  and  a child.  Upon  invitation,  two  of 
them  came  on  board  without  hesitation  or  dismay, 
and  Captain  Long  was  not  a little  surprised  to  find 
them  so  different  from  those  seen  at  Good  Success. 
They  spoke  an  entirely  different  language,  were  of  a 
low  stature,  ill  shapen  and  desperately  dirty.  So 
great  indeed  was  the  difference,  that  no  room  was 
left  for  doubt  but  that  those  seen  at  Good  Success 
were  natives  of  Patagonia,  and  had  wandered  there 
in  quest  of  game. 

Orange  Harbor  is  a large  and  spacious  harbor,  sit- 
uated at  the  deep  and  extensive  ha.y  of  Nassau,  and 
protected  from  the  violence  of  the  waves  by  a small 
island  called  Burnt  Island,  on  which  the  Relief  had  a 
light  house  erected  for  the  use  of  the  squadron,  should 
they  arrive  in  the  night  time.  It  is  intersected  by 
many  small  bays  or  harbors,  suitable  for  boats  to  en- 
ter for  wood  and  water.  The  most  convenient  one  is 
Dingy  Cove,  situated  nearly  at  the  head  of  the  bay, 
in  which  boats  may  enter  and  fill  with  wood,  cut 
from  the  banks.  The  neighborhood  is  plentifully 
supplied  with  wood,  but  this  is  the  most  convenient 
place  to  get  a supply.  Game  is  found  here  in  great 
profusion,  and  water  in  abundance,  of  an  excellent 
quality.  This  is  the  harbor  where  the  celebrated  cir- 
4* 


42 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


cumnavigator,  Captain  James  Cook  of  the  British 
Navy,  anchored  and  refitted  ship  previous  to  his  An- 
tarctic cruise,  on  his  second  voyage  of  discovery. 
Subsequent  explorers  have  anchored  here  and  refitted. 

Captain  King  of  H.  B.  M.  ship , has  been  on  this 

coast  for  several  years  surveying.  He  also  made  this 
his  rendezvous,  and  by  him  it  was  accounted  tha  best 
harbor  on  the  coast. 

Pish  are  found  here  in  great  abundance,  and  of  an 
excellent  quality. — as  good,  if  not  better  than  our  pan 
fish  at  home.  The  first  few  days  after  our  arrival 
we  had  very  boisterous  weather,  but  it  soon  became 
more  moderate.  Early  in  the  morning  a canoe  came 
alongside  with  six  natives,  five  men  and  one  woman, 
bringing  with  them  spears  and  a necklace  made  of 
shells,  which  they  readily  exchanged  for  pieces  of 
cotton  and  pieces  of  an  old  iron  hoop.  They  were 
invited  on  board,  but  at  first,  only  one  would  venture. 
This  was  a young  man  of  about  nineteen  years  of  age 
and  rather  good  looking.  They  were  evidently  of 
the  same  race  as  those  seen  at  Nassau  Bay.  They 
spoke  the  same  language  and  dressed  and  walked 
like  them.  The  woman  was  old,  ugly  and  as  mus- 
cular as  any  of  the  men,  and  with  them  partook  of 
an  equal  share  of  the  labor  of  the  paddle.  They  all 
listened  attentively  to  the  flute  and  guitar,  and  even 
attempted  to  imitate  the  songs  accompanying  the  mu- 
sic. Every  new  object  they  saw  attracted  their  at- 
tention. They  were  conducted  to  every  part  of  the 
ship,  and  shown  every  thing  considered  at  all  attrac- 
tive. Their  canoe  was  constructed  of  strips  of  bark 
sewed  together,  and  so  frail  and  leaky  that  one  had 
constantly  to  keep  bailing  to  keep  it  afloat.  It  was 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


43 


about  twenty-five  vfeet  long  and  three  wide.  The 
bottom  was  covered  with  a layer  of  clay  about  one 
foot  thick,  and  on  which  a fire  was  kept  burning  and 
around  which  the  indians  were  constantly  hovering. 
Our  friends,  the  natives,  left  us  about  one  o’clock, 
P.  M.,  and  landed  nearly  opposite  the  ship,  where  they 
built  a large  fire. 

On  the  25th  of  February,  the  United  States  Ship 
Peacock,  William  L.  Hudson,  Esq.  commanding,  Brig 
Porpoise,  Charles  Wilkes,  Esq.,  commander  in  chief; 
Schooner  Sea  Gull,  Lieutenant  Johnson,  started  on  a 
cruise  to  the  Polar  regions.  As  the  Porpoise  passed 
out  of  the  harbor,  she  was  successively  cheered  by  all 
the  squadron.  The  Vincennes,  in  charge  of  Lieu- 
tenant Thomas  T.  Craven,  was  left  in  this  harbor  to 
await  the  return  of  the  Squadron.  All  the  sick  and 
invalids  from  those  vessels  bound  on  a cruise,  were 
left  behind  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting. 

At  six  o’clock,  A.  M.,  January  6th,  the  store  ship 
Relief  got  underway  and  stood  out  to  sea,  bound  on  a 
cruise  to  the  straits  of  Magellan.  She  had  on  board 
a number  of  our  scientific  gentlemen,  and  also  the  fleet 
surgeon,  Doctor  Gilchrist. 

Since  our  arrival  here  we  have  generally  experi- 
enced milder  weather  than  was  expected  in  such  a 
high  latitude.  It  is  such  weather  as  we  generally 
have  in  the  United  States  in  the  latter  part  of  Febru- 
ary. We  caught  daily  a plenty  of  fish  and  killed  an 
abundance  of  game. 

We  were  again  visited  by  a party  of  natives  in 
several  bark  canoes  who  came  alongside,  and  upon 
invitation  a number  came  on  board.  As  soon  as  they 
came  on  deck  their  vociferation  seemed  to  increase 


44 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


with  their  astonishment,  and  it  may  be  added,  their 
pleasure ; for  the  reception  they  met  seemed  to  create 
no  less  joy  than  surprise.  Whenever  they  received  a 
present,  or  were  shown  any  thing  which  excited  fresh 
admiration,  they  expressed  their  delight  in  loud  and 
repeated  ejaculations,  which  they  sometimes  contin- 
ued till  they  were  quite  hoarse,  and  out  of  breath 
with  the  exertion.  The  noisy  mode  of  expressing 
their  satisfaction  was  accompanied  by  jumping, 
which  continued  for  a minute  or  more,  according  to 
the  degree  of  passion  which  was  excited,  and  the 
bodily  power  of  the  person  who  exercised  it.  The 
old  man  was  rather  too  infirm  to  express  the  full 
amount  of  his  gratitude,  but  still  did  his  utmost  to  go 
through  the  performance. 

After  some  time  passed  upon  deck,  during  which  a 
few  bows  and  arrows,  and  one  or  two  skins  were 
bought  from  them,  they  were  taken  down  into  the 
cabin.  The  younger  ones  received  the  proposal  to 
descend  rather  doubtingly,  till  they  saw  that  their  old 
companions  were  willing  to  set  them  the  example, 
and  they  then  followed  without  fear.  They  were,  like 
our  former  visitors,  almost  in  a perfect  state  of  nudi- 
ty. Still  the  women  possessed  an  uncommon  share  of 
modesty,  and  seemed  perfectly  conscious  of  their  ex- 
posed situation,  for  not  one  could  be  induced  to  come 
on  board,  though  presents  were  repeatedly  offered 
them  as  an  inducement.  There  were  one  or  two 
children  in  the  number,  whom  they  seemed  to  treat 
with  great  tenderness.  A blanket  was  given  to  one 
of  the  women,  and  she  had  no  sooner  received  it,  than 
she  wrapped  it  around  her  child.  I was  much  aston- 
ished to  witness  the  modest  behavior  of  these  poor 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


45 


savages,  as  quite  the  reverse  might  be  expected  from 
beings  so  literally  in  a state  of  nature,  and  ignorant  of 
social  intercourse. 

We  had  much  amusement  with  the  men  who  came 
on  board.  We  dressed  them  up  in  sailors’  and  ma- 
rines’ clothing,  and  then  took  them  before  a looking 
glass,  that  they  might  view  their  altered  appearance. 

The  only  word  of  their  language  that  I could  dis- 
tinguish was  11  Yam  Mali  Scooud which  words  they 
repeat  when  asking  for  any  thing.  They  are  a set  of 
poor,  miserable  beings,  but  very  innocent;  they  did 
not  touch  an  article  that  was  not  given  them.  About 
four  o’clock  they  left  the  ship  and  encamped  on  shore 
opposite  to  us.  The  only  dwelling  which  we  could 
discover  that  they  inhabited,  was  made  of  the 
branches  of  trees. 

March  13th.  The  natives  paid  us  another  visit 
this  morning,  expecting  to  get  another  load  of  pres- 
ents, but  were  disappointed.  They  had  pulled  off 
the  clothes  that  had  been  given  them  the  day  pre- 
vious, and  came  as  naked  as  when  on  their  first  visit. 
This  was  done  no  doubt  to  excite  our  sympathy  and 
solicit  charity.  It  is  very  surprising  how  these  poor, 
miserable  beings  can  subsist,  with  but  little  covering 
to  protect  them  against  the  inclement  weather  which 
prevails  here  during  the  entire  year.  Their  principal 
food  is  shell  fish,  which  they  procure  during  their 
short  summer,  and  dry  in  the  sun,  for  the  winter’s 
supply.  Yet  another  proof  of  the  goodness  of  Him 
who  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb.  Query, 
would  this  not  be  a fit  place  for  our  philanthropic  mis- 
sionaries to  exercise  their  ameliorating  powers  ? 

From  the  date  of  my  last  remarks  until  the  present 


46 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


period,  the  weather  has  been  almost  constantly  bad; — 
rain,  hail  and  snow  almost  every  day,  with  a con- 
stant gale  of  wind.  The  indians  seemed  to  have  had 
a knowledge  of  its  approach,  as  they  all  left  the  coast 
some  days  before  it  set  in,  and  have  not  been  seen 
since. 

On  the  22d  inst.  the  Schooner  Sea  Gull,  Lieuten- 
ant Johnson,  arrived  from  the  southern  cruise,  and 
brought  some  curiosities,  among  which  was  the  skin 
of  a sea  lion,  killed  at  the  South  Shetlands. 

Two  days  afterward,  the  Brig  Porpoise,  Charles 
Wilkes,  commander  in  chief,  arrived.  He  had  visit- 
ed during  his  cruise,  the  South  Shetlands,  Palmer’s 
Land,  and  penetrated  as  far  as  the  sixty-sixth  degree 
of  south  latitude,  when  he  was  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  innumerable  icebergs,  and  field-ice.  About 
this  time  we  had  another  visit  from  one  of  the  natives, 
who  remained  on  board  for  a considerable  time.  He 
afforded  much  amusement  for  us,  and  served  to  be- 
guile the  tedious  monotony  of  our  hours,  in  his  at- 
tempts to  imitate  and  mimic  our  words  and  actions. 
He  seemed  to  be  much  pleased  with  the  treatment  he 
received,  but  still  seemed  anxious  to  get  with  his  old 
companions. 

At  two  o’clock,  P.  M.,  April  17th  all  hands  were 
called  to  get  underway,  and  we  dropped  down  to 
Seapenham  Bay,  when  the  wind  being  light  and  un- 
favorable, we  again  came  to  anchor,  where  we  lay 
but  a short  time.  During  the  night  all  the  watch 
idlers,  and  all  hands  were  startled  from  their  slumbers 
by  the  cry  of  u all  hands ! ” who  rushed  on  deck,  and 
found  that  we  were  close  in  shore  and  threatened 
with  a heavy  squall.  It  however  passed  off  without 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


47 


reaching  us.  At  daylight  we  had  a light  wind  and 
were  just  clearing  the  bay,  and  in  sight  of  Cape  Horn. 
At  four  P.  M.,  Cape  Horn  bore  by  compass  N.  sixty- 
two  degrees  E.,  and  False  Cape  Horn  twelve  degrees 
W.  In  a short  time  we  found  ourselves  in  a milder 
climate,  and  expected  in  a few  days  to  be  able  to 
reach  Valparaiso. 

At  daylight  of  the  12th  of  May,  the  coast  of  Chili 
was  in  sight,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  lofty  Andes 
were  dimly  seen  above  the  eastern  horizon,  probably 
not  less  than  fifty  miles  distant.  Those  lofty  moun- 
tains have  been  seen  sometimes  at  a distance  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  particularly  in  a clear  at- 
mosphere before  sunrise.  The  coast  gradually  rose 
into  view  as  we  approached  it,  and  on  the  following 
day  we  were  near  enough  to  view  its  irregular  form, 
with  pleasing  anticipations.  As  we  approached  the 
harbor  of  Valparaiso,  the  coast  had  the  high  and 
checkered  appearance  of  some  of  the  bold  promonto- 
ries of  New  England,  though  with  the  aspect  of  great 
sterility.  When  we  came  up  with  the  Point  of  An- 
gels, one  object  after  another  opened  upon  us,  begin- 
ning with  a large  white  house  where  the  Governor  oc- 
casionally resides  for  the  purpose  of  inhaling  the  sea 
breeze.  Then  are  seen  the  habitations  of  the  citizens, 
stretching  along  above  a sand  beach,  and  then  higher 
up  the  acclivities,  almost  covering  the  steep  hills,  the 
town  is  built.  The  name  of  the  place,  the  “Valley 
of  Paradise,”  is  calculated  to  give  one  lofty  expecta- 
tions and  prepare  him  for  disappointment.  If  such  a 
place  is  paradise  it  must  be  paradise  fallen ; as  where 
the  holy  pair  were  expelled  by  sin. 

The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Valparaiso,  for  the  most 


48 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


part,  is  very  poor,  and  the  irregular  broken  country 
for  miles  around,  has  a peculiar  desolate  appearance, 
from  the  most  total  absence  of  vegetation  and  foliage. 
The  long  snowy  range  of  the  Andes,  though  so  dis- 
tant as  to  form  a less  impressive  feature  than  my  im- 
agination had  pictured,  was  still  a very  fine  object, 
and  if  it  could  have  been  contrasted  with  any  thing 
like  an  Italian  foreground,  would  have  been  far  more 
enchanting.  The  everlasting  snows  of  the  Andes, 
when  viewed  in  particular  lights,  would  gleam  with 
brilliancy,  as  if  overspread  with  burnished  silver. 
And  as  we  approached  the  harbor  on  the  following 
day.  the  sombre  interest  of  the  scene  was  heightened 
by  the  chiming  of  bells  for  vespers,  from  the  gloomy 
monasteries  of  the  town. 

As  soon  as  we  had  come  to  anchor,  and  every 
thing  was  secured,  the  letter  bag  was  brought  on  deck 
and  its  contents  emptied  on  the  Quarter.  This  was 
an  anxious  and  interesting  time, — every  one  waiting 
in  suspense  for  his  name  to  be  called  for  a letter. 
Many  of  us  had  not  heard  from  home  since  leaving 
the  United  States.  Many  were  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment, and  myself  among  the  number. 

A few  days  after  our  arrival,  I obtained  permission 
to  visit  the  shore  in  company  with  a number  of  my 
ship-mates.  We  landed  at  a pier  which  had  been  re- 
cently built.  This  is  the  only  place  where  a boat 
can  land  without  being  in  danger  of  being  dashed  to 
pieces  against  the  rocks,  from  the  violence  of  the  surf 
which  every  where  beats  along  the  shore. 

We  were  met  on  the  pier  by  a motley  set,  princi- 
pally Choloes , or  country  people,  dressed  in  their 
large  ponchos,  which  very  much  resemble  horse 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


49 


blankets,  with  a hole  in  the  middle  through  which 
the  head  is  thrust,  so  that  the  ends  hang  down  be- 
hind and  before.  The  women  of  the  lower  order 
were  variously  habited  in  dirty  calico  frocks,  and 
shawls  of  coarse  baize,  either  green  or  crimson.  A 
short  walk  made  me  pretty  well  acquainted  with  the 
town.  It  has  one  large  street  and  one  or  two  small 
ones,  and  in  common  with  most  Spanish  towns,  has 
its  plaza , or  public  square,  with  the  government 
house  and  a range  of  houses  on  the  opposite  side.  I 
looked  in  vain,  as  I passed  along  the  street,  for  some- 
thing interesting  among  the  inhabitants. 

Mount  Alegre  is  an  eminence  which  rises  abruptly 
from  the  centre  of  the  town,  and,  in  fact,  nearly  over- 
hangs it.  This  is  the  residence  of  many  of  the 
wealthy  foreigners,  merchants,  doing  business  in  the 
towns.  From  here  the  view  is  delightful;  the  har- 
bor, with  all  the  shipping  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, affords  a beautiful  prospect,  seldom  surpassed. 
There  are  several  inns  or  taverns  in  the  town,  and 
among  the  number  two  English  and  one  French. 
Those  houses  kept  by  Chilians  seem  to  be  naturally 
dirty,  as  it  is  a characteristic  peculiar  to  them.  But 
this  is  not  the  case  with  the  houses  of  the  old  Span- 
iards here,  which  are  very  clean  and  tidy.  There  is 
no  taste  in  the  building  of  the  town.  The  houses  are 
made  chiefly  of  sun-burnt  bricks,  plastered  outside, 
and  only  one  or  two  stories  high,  with  red  tiled  roofs. 
The  bricks  are  generally  two  feet  long,  and  one  wide, 
and  very  coarse.  From  what  I observed,  I should 
judge  their  manner  of  making  them  might  have  been 
similar  to  that  practiced  in  Egypt  by  the  Jews,  in  the 
time  of  Moses. 


o 


50 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


The  ladies  of  Valparaiso — and  they  form  but  a 
small  portion  of  the  whole  in  my  estimation — are  dress- 
entirely  different  from  those  of  the  lower  order ; but 
none  of  them  wear  any  hat  or  head  dress,  on  ordinary 
occasions.  Their  ringlets  or  curls  hang  down  the 
back  in  two  long  plaits,  in  some  instances,  nearly 
reaching  to  the  ground. 

The  public  buildings  in  Valparaiso,  are  very  few, 
— a custom-house,  a town-house,  and  a court-house 
are  the  principal  ones.  Their  places  of  amusement 
consist  of  a theatre,  poorly  fitted  up,  and  another  old 
building  where  they  hold  their  “chingonoa  dances.” 
This  is  one  of  the  most  ludicrous  amusements  that 
can  be  imagined,  and  I believe  only  the  most  aban- 
doned portion  resort  there.  Decency  will  not  permit 
me  to  describe  the  scenes  that  may  be  here  witnessed. 
Seraglios  are  numerous,  and  may  be-  found  in  almost 
any  part  of  the  city.  According  to  the  number  of  in- 
habitants, I never  saw  so  many  “ courtesans  ” in  any 
place  in  my  life ; still  they  all  pretend  to  be  devoted 
Catholics.  The  people  appear  generally,  hospitable 
and  kind  to  strangers.  It  is  quite  amusing  to  see  the 
country  people  coming  in  to  market  on  their  asses 
and  mules,  with  their  feet  reaching  almost  to  the 
ground,  when,  ever  and  anon,  they  would  scourge  the 
poor  animals  with  a long  pole  which  they  invariably 
carry.  The  stirrups  are  made  of  wood,  and  almost 
as  large  as  a peck  measure, — even  these  seemed  to  be 
a load  for  the  little  animals. 

The  climate  in  Chili  is  very  fine  in  summer,  but  in 
winter  is  subject  to  heavy  rains,  and  also  very  severe 
gales  of  wind ; ships  are  driven  from  their  moorings 
and  stranded  on  the  beach.  Among  the  most  prevail- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


51 


ing  diseases  are  fevers.  There  are  no  slaves  in  the 
Republic  of  Chili. 

The  navy  has  increased  considerably  in  a very 
short  time.  A squadron  is  now  at  Callao  consisting 
of  two  frigates,  two  sloops  of  war,  and  several  smaller 
vessels.  This  force  has  been  recently  employed 
against  Peru,  in  which  rencounter  they  were  victo- 
rious. 

During  some  of  my  subsequent  visits  on  shore  I 
strolled  out  to  the  burying  ground,  situated  on  a high 
hill  which  overlooks  the  town.  On  my  way  I passed 
several  crosses,  erected,  as  I was  informed,  for  the 
purpose  of  eliciting  prayers  for  souls  in  purgatory. 
The  grounds  are  enclosed  by  two  mud  walls : one  of 
those  was  appropriated  to  Catholics,  or  natives,  and 
the  other  to  persons  of  a different  faith.  Attachecf  to 
the  burying  ground  is  a charnel  house,  which  is  liter- 
ally a place  of  skulls.  The  dead  are  laid  with  their 
heads  to  the  west,  in  shallow  graves,  and  for  the  most 
part  without  either  coffin  or  shroud.  They  are  at 
first  only  covered  with  a small  quantity  of  earth, 
which  is  beaten  upon  them  with  a billet  of  wood. 
When  the  graves  are  filled,  a wooden  cross,  in  place 
of  a stone,  is  placed  at  the  head  to  mark  the  spot. 
But  the  bodies  are  very  often  left  so  much  exposed  as 
to  be  nearly  visible.  The  adjacent  “ Protestant 
Burying  Ground  ” presented  quite  a different  aspect. 
Many  of  the  graves  were  marked,  as  in  our  country, 
with  neat  marble  slabs,  bearing  appropiate  inscrip- 
tions. Yet  we  were  greatly  shocked  to  learn  that  the 
Protestant  graves  have  been  repeatedly  violated, 
either  from  malice  or  for  plunder.  I picked  up  sev- 
eral coffin  plates  marked  with  names  and  dates,  and 


52 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


I was  assured  on  good  authority,  that  one  of  my 
countrymen,  who  had  been  buried  here,  had  been 
taken  up  and  treated  with  great  indignity. 

There  is  but  one  road  here,  which  leads  to  the  city 
of  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chili,  situated  about  sixty 
miles  in  the  interior  from  Yalparaiso.  Several  im- 
portant roads  have  been  projected,  but  the  face  of  the 
country  presents  many  obstacles,  and  improvements 
of  this  nature  must  necessarily  be  gradual.  This 
country  has  enjoyed  more  peace  than  any  of  the  new 
Republics,  and  the  natives  are  generally  considered 
superior  to  the  Peruvians. 

The  government  is  a Central  Republic.  There  are 
no  inferior  sovereignties,  like  our  States,  or  Mexico 
and  La  Plata.  The  salary  of  the  President  is  twelve 
thousand  dollars,  and  that  of  the  Prime  Minister  three 
thousand  dollars.  The  people  are  in  a prosperous 
condition,  and  far  more  contented  than  they  were 
while  under  the  oppressive  colonial  system  of  old 
Spain.  Education  is  in  its  infancy,  but  some  atten- 
tion has  been  bestowed  upon  it,  and  the  first  rudi- 
ments of  knowledge  are  pretty  generally  taught  to 
the  young. 

On  our  arrival  here,  we  learned  that  the  storeship 
arrived  at  this  harbor  on  the  13th  of  April,  and  lay 
off  and  on  for  several  days  before  she  could  come  into 
port,  for  want  of  anchors.  She  lost  all  her  anchors 
and  chains  in  a violent  gale  of  wind  off  Noir  Islands, 
where  she  came  near  being  lost.  The  Peacock  arriv- 
ed here  a little  time  before  us,  from  her  Antarctic 
cruise.  The  Brig  Porpoise  and  Schooner  Flying 
Fish  came  in  with  us ; but  the  Schooner  Sea  Gull  is 
still  absent  from  the  Squadron,  and  fears  are  entertain- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


53 


ed  for  her  safety,  as,  when  she  was  last  seen  by  her 
consort,  the  Flying  Fish,  she  was  supposed  to  be  in  a 
dangerous  situation  on  a lee-shore,  off  Cape  Horn. 
She  had  on  board  a crew  of  thirteen  men  and  two 
officers.  Passed  Midshipman  E.  J.  Reid  and  Mr. 
Baker,  were  the  two  officers  attached  to  her.  Lieu- 
tenant Thomas  T.  Craven  was  to  remain  here,  to 
take  charge  of  the  Sea  Gull  in  case  she  should  get 
here  in  safety,  if  not,  to  go  in  search  of  her. 

On  the  5th  of  June,  we  got  underway  and  stood  out, 
bound  to  sea.  The  Peacock  and  Brig  Porpoise  sailed 
a few  days  since  for  the  same  port.  Nothing  worthy 
of  particularizing  happened  on  our  passage,  which 
was  performed  in  fifteen  days.  On  the  20th  June  we 
came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Callao  under  the  Isl- 
and of  San  Lorenzo.  We  found  the  U.  S.  S.  ship 
Relief,  Peacock,  Porpoise  and  Schooner  Flying  Fish 
all  at  anchor  here,  also  the  U.  S.  S.  Lexicon,  the 
Chilian  Squadron,  and  one  English  and  one  French 
frigate,  besides  a number  of  merchant  vessels.  No 
news  yet  from  the  Sea  Gull. 


5* 


54 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


CHAPTER  IY. 


San  Lorenzo — Epitaphs — Appearance  of  Natives  and  Soldiers — 
“ Glorious  Fourth  ” — Funeral  of  one  of  our  number — Discov- 
ery of  several  Islands. 


lc  Saved  from  the  perils  of  the  stormy  wave, 

And  faint  with  toil,  the  wanderer  of  the  main, 

But  just  escaped  from  shipwrecks  billowy  grave, 
Trembles  to  hear  its  horrors  named  again. 

How  warm  his  vow,  that  ocean’s  fairest  mien 
No  more  shall  lure  him  from  the  smiles  of  home, 
Yet  soon  forgetting  each  terrific  scene, 

Once  more  he  turns,  o’er  boundless  deeps  to  roam." 


The  prospect  where  we  now  lay  was  truly  interest- 
ing. We  had  a full  view  of  the  town  and  fortress  of 
Callao,  an  indistinct  view  of  the  spires  and  churches 
of  Lima  and  eight  miles  to  the  rear  of  Callao,  and  to 
the  rear  of  all,  a lofty  chain  of  the  Andes,  the  lofty 
tops  of  which  were  lost  amid  the  clouds.  The  Island 
of  San  Lorenzo,  where  we  then  lay,  was  formed  by 
the  earthquakes  of  1740,  which  destroyed  the  whole 
city  of  Callao.  It  is  a large  mound  or  heap  of  sand 
and  stones,  with  no  sign  of  vegetation.  It  is  the 
burying  place  of  foreign  seamen,  who  are  not  of  the 
Catholic  faith,  who  die  in  this  port.  In  the  course  of 
my  rambles  on  shore  I copied  some  of  the  most  strik  - 
ing epitaphs. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


55 


“In  memory  of  William  Price,  seaman; — on  board 
United  States  Brig  Boxer,  who  died  September  25th, 
1830. 

A mother’s  eye  will  look, — but  look  in  vain, — 

For  her  lov’d  son  returning  from  the  main; 

He  left  his  home  to  tempt  the  fickle  wave, 

And  now  reposes  in  a foreign  grave. 

Peace  to  his  soul,  an  everlasting  peace, 

Where  troubles  come  not,  and  pleasures  never  cease.  ” 

“ To  the  memory  of  Bryce  Gringle,  who  departed 
this  life  February  27th,  1837,  on  board  United  States 
Brig  Boxer. 

Short  was  the  summons  to  the  dreary  tomb 
Of  him  who  sleeps  beneath  this  dreary  sod, 

The  friend*  he  trusted  crushed  his  early  bloom 
And  sent  him  unprepared  to  meet  his  God. 

No  kindred  wept  above  his  youthful  bier, 

And  stranger  hands  have  placed  this  tribute  here.” 

“ To  the  memory  of  Thomas  Hedrick,  of  the  United 
States  Ship  of  the  Line  North  Carolina,  who  departed 
this  life  at  Callao  on  the  13th,  1838,  set  sixteen 
years. 

In  vain  had  youth  its  flight  impeded, 

And  hope  its  passage  had  delayed; 

Death’s  mandate  all  has  superseded, — 

The  latest  order  Tom  obeyed.” 


* He  was  murdered  in  his  hammock  by  his  best  friend,  his  traveling 
companion.  He  was  an  Italian,  and  in  a fit  of  jealousy,  perpetrated  the 
foul  deed.  His  friend  had  given  his  u rations  ” to  another,  and  his  exas- 
peration could  be  quenched  only  by  the  murder  of  his  companion.  Com- 
ment is  unnecessary. 


56 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


“ Sacred  to  the  memory  of  James  Lawrence,  late 
seaman  on  board  H.  B.  M.  ship  President,  who  de- 
parted this  life  February  8th,  1838. 

A worthy  shipmate  and  a friend  sincere, 

In  the  cold,  silent  grave  now  resteth  here  ; 

His  warning  was  but  short, — think  of  his  fate, 

Prepare  for  death  before  it  is  too  late.” 

“ Sacred  to  the  memory  of  William  Edwards,  late 
of  the  Royal  Marines,  on  board  H.  B.  M.  ship  Harrin, 
who  departed  this  life  at  Callao,  November  29th,  1839. 

I’m  here  at  rest  from  busy  scenes ; 

I once  belonged  to  the  Royal  Marines ; 

I’m  now  confined  within  these  borders, 

Remaining  here  for  further  orders.” 

New  Callao,  though  the  sea  port  of  Lima,  is,  with- 
out any  exception,  the  most  miserable  looking  place 
I ever  saw.  The  principal  street,  following  the  cur- 
vature of  the  beach,  is  miserably  paved,  which  renders 
walking  disagreeable.  The  rest,  excepting  the  one 
leading  into  the  road  to  Lima,  are  narrow,  dirty 
lanes.  The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  con- 
structed of  reeds,  plastered  with  mud,  and  white- 
washed both  inside  and  out ; — furnished  with  clumsy 
wooden  verandas  and  flag  staff.  The  roofs  are  flat 
and  covered  with  the  same  kind  of  materials,  which 
form  the  walls;  but  instead  of  being  preserved  for 
promenades,  they  are  receptacles  of  all  kinds  of  rub- 
bish, such  as  rags,  broken  bottles1,  demijohns  tum- 
blers, old  baskets,  rams’  horns,  remnants  of  bedding, 
and  old  boots  and  shoes.  There  are  very  few  decent 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


57 


houses  in  the  place.  The  one  occupied  by  the  cap- 
tain of  the  port  makes  the  best  external  appearance. 
The  interior  of  the  dwellings  are  generally  filthy. 
When  passing  by  the  door  of  the  port  surgeon,  I was 
struck  with  astonishment  at  its  appearance; — a hen 
and  chickens  were  sitting  in  one  corner  of  the  office^ 
where  he  was  writing  prescriptions  for  invalids.  It 
seems  to  be  a natural  disposition  for  all  classes  of 
them  to  live  in  filth.  The  women  belonging  to  the 
higher  order  are  at  their  toilette  about  five  o’clock  in 
the  afternoon,  after  which  they  either  thumb  the 
guitar  or  sally  forth  for  a pasio,  or  walk.  In  passing 
their  houses  at  any  other  time  of  the  day,  you  see 
them  with  their  dress  hanging  negligently  about  their 
persons,  opened  behind  or  exposing  their  bosom  in 
front,  with  their  feet  perched  upon  the  rounds  of  a 
chair,  and  perhaps  swinging,  or  gazing  upon  the  pass- 
ing stranger.  Before  the  door  of  many  houses,  may 
be  seen,  exposed  for  sale  by  orange  women,  setting  in 
dishabelle  on  the  pavements,  the  different  kinds  of 
fruit  peculiar  to  the  climate;  some  mending  their 
clothes,  while  their  naked  children  are  playing  with 
the  fruit. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  persons  examining  each 
other’s  heads  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  if  not  over 
the  articles  they  have  for  sale.  The  multitude  of 
lazy,  idle  soldiers,  consisting  of  indians,  negroes  and 
mulattoes,  lounging  about  the  streets  in  every  direc- 
tion, fill  the  stranger  with  the  most  unfavorable  im- 
pressions. A few  are  stationed  on  the  quay  near  the 
landing; — the  remainder  sauntering  about  wherever 
they  choose.  Their  uniform  is  ridiculous.  It  usually 
consists  of  a coat,  and  pantaloons  of  coarse,  unbleach- 


58 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ed  canvas,  trimmed  with  black  cord ; sometimes  the 
pantaloons  are  made  of  coarse  red  flannel,  with  nar- 
row strips  of  black  and  yellow,  extending  down  the 
outward  seam.  They  have  a cartridge  box,  a bayo- 
net and  sometimes  a gun.  but  are  often  without  the 
latter.  A heavy  leather  bell-crowned  hat,  or  cap,  en- 
closed in  a case  of  white  cotton,  with  a band  of  black 
ribbon,  completes  the  list  of  articles.  The  Peruvian 
officers  wear  a rich  uniform.  They  make  a great 
display  of  epaulettes  and  gold  lace. 

The  contrast  between  the  inhabitants  of  Peru  and 
the  United  States,  was  truly  striking,  and  led  me  to 
reflect  with  pleasure  upon  the  superior  advantages 
enjoyed  by  the  citizens  of  enlightened  countries  for 
the  cultivation  of  all  those  social  enjoyments  that  tend 
to  refine  society,  and  exalt  the  human  mind. 

I regretted  very  much  that  I did  not  have  an  op- 
portunity of  visiting  Lima,  the  famed  city  of  the  “6Five 
Kings;”  however  I had  my  curiosity  satisfied  with 
regard  to  their  “ hello  sexo”  for  I have  had  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  them  frequently  in  Callao.  Those 
which  struck  my  particular  attention  were  dressed  in 
the  Saya  y Manta , one  of  the  most  novel  and  unique 
dress  I ever  saw  worn.  The  universal  walking  dresses 
of  the  ladies  of  Lima,  is  the  Say  a y Manta.  It  is 
confined  to  this  and  a few  other  cities  in  South  Amer- 
ica. The  Manta  probably  had  its  origin  from  the 
moors  in  Spain.  The  Saya  consists  of  an  elastic 
petticoat,  made  generally  of  satin  or  velvet,  of  black 
or  cinnamon  color,  plaited  up  and  down  in  very 
small  folds,  and  so  shaped  as  to  fit  very  closely, 
allowing  the  wearer  merely  room  for  walking  with  a 
short  step.  The  Manta  is  a hood  of  black  silk, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


59 


drawn  round  the  waist,  and  carried  over  the  head  so 
as  to  cover  the  whole  upper  part  of  the  person.  The 
ladies  usually  wear  it  so  closely  as  to  expose  only 
one  eye.  Hence  it  becomes  impossible  to  recognize 
an  intimate  acquaintance  when  enveloped  in  the 
Say  a y Manta. 

To  these  two  garments  are  added  a fine  shawl, 
with  silk  stockings  and  satin  shoes,  while  a rose  is 
held  in  the  hand.  Some  of  the  ladies  on  an  evening 
promenade,  are  seen  in  the  English  dress,  with  a 
shawl  thrown  over  their  heads,  but  never  with  any 
thing  like  a bonnet  or  hat.  Within  the  city,  the  cas- 
tles, which  are  two,  are  the  only  public  buildings  of 
note. 

There  are  no  schools  in  Callao  and  but  few  in  Li- 
ma, and  but  little  thirst  for  acquiring  knowledge  is 
manifested  by  any  of  the  native  Peruvians.  Revolu- 
tion after  revolution  has  kept  the  country  in  a con- 
stant state  of  excitement,  and  prevents  them  from 
having  any  settled  government.  Anarchy  reigns 
throughout  the  whole  country  of  Peru. 

On  the  24th  of  June  all  the  crew  of  the  Relief,  except 
the  invalids,  were  transferred  to  this  ship,  and  their 
places  filled  by  invalids  and  superannuated  seamen 
from  the  different  vessels  of  the  Squadron,  who  are  to 
be  sent  home. 

July  4th.  “ Peruvian  dew”  prevails  extensively. 
It  never  rains  here,  but  at  this  season  of  the  year  the 
atmosphere  is  very  humid,  and  sometimes  the  air  is 
so  damp  as  to  wet  through  thick  cloth  in  a very  short 
time. 

The  ship  was  dressed  on  the  4th,  commemorative 
of  the  “declaration  of  independence.”  At  twelve, 


60 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


A.  M.  a salute  was  fired  on  board  the  Falmouth,  and 
immediately  the  English  ship  Samorang  answered  it. 
“ The  glorious  fourth  ” was  not  forgotten,  though  we 
were  far  from  the  land  that  gave  us  birth, — the  land 
that  we  love  as  the  home  of  the  free,  and  the  asylum 
of  the  oppressed.  The  associations  of  home  are  sel- 
dom forgotten,  especially  when  those  associations  are 
of  a thrilling  nature,  like  those  that  marked  the 
struggle  of  our  fathers  for  freedom. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  8th,  Benjamin  Holden,  late 
marine  on  board  United  States  store-ship  Relief,  at- 
tached to  the  Exploring  Expedition,  who  departed 
this  life  yesterday,  on  board  the  Peacock,  to  which 
ship  he  had  been  transferred  as  Purser’s  Steward,  was 
conveyed  to  the  Island  of  San  Lorenzo  for  interment. 
The  funeral  obsequies  were  performed  by  Mr.  Elliot, 
our  chaplain.  The  corpse  was  accompanied  to  the 
place  of  sepulture,  by  a guard  of  marines  and  two  or 
three  officers. 

All  things  being  ready,  at  five  o’clock,  July  13th, 
we  got  underway  and  stood  out  to  sea,  all  the  squad- 
ron in  company.  On  the  following  day,  the  Com- 
mander in  Chief’s  general  order  was  read  on  the 
quarter-deck,  in  the  presence  of  all  the  officers  and 
crew,  respecting  their  conduct  towards  the  natives 
of  the  savage  islands  which  we  were  about  to  visit. 

I anticipated  this  to  be  the  pleasantest  part  of  our 
cruise,  for  we  expected  to  visit  many  strange  islands 
and  have  much  intercourse  with  their  inhabitants. 

After  leaving  Callao,  we  had  delightful  weather, 
passing  through  the  most  pleasant  climate  in  the 
world.  For  days  together  not  a cloud  was  visible; 
the  atmosphere  was  as  clear  as  a crystal  and  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


61 


stars  were  shining  brilliantly.  A combination  of 
such  rare  beauty  and  sublimity  was  sufficient  to  in- 
spire the  mind  with  awe  and  veneration. 

At  half  past  12,  Aug.  1st,  Alexander  Ogle,  corporal 
of  marines,  breathed  bis  last.  He  had  been  sick  only 
a few  days,  with  an  affection  of  the  brain.  At  three  - 
o’clock,  P.  M.  all  hands  were  called  to  bury  the  dead, 
having  been  previously  ordered  to  appear  in  white 
mustering  clothes.  This  was  the  first  time  many  on 
board  had  witnessed  a burial  at  sea.  It  was  a mel- 
ancholy and  imposing  sight.  A canvas  hammock 
both  served  for  a coffin  and  a shroud.  The  body 
was  inclosed  in  it  in  connection  with  two  thirty-two 
pound  shots  placed  at  the  feet,  and  a rough  plank  was 
the  only  bier,  while  an  ensign  was  the  pall.  The 
corpse  was  borne  to  the  lee  gangway  by  the  mess- 
mates of  the  deceased.  All  was  still.  The  chaplain 
stationed  himself  near  the  corpse,  and  commenced  the 
beautiful  and  impressive  burial  service  of  the  Episco- 
pal church.  At  the  words,  “We  therefore  commit 
his  body  to  the  deep,”  we  heard  the  plunge,  and  a 
momentary  silence,  and  an  expression  of  solemnity 
was  apparent  among  the  crew.  The  rite  of  sepul- 
chre ended,  silence  pervaded  the  ship  for  a little  space 
of  time,  and  then  all  was  again  bustle  and  confusion. 

On  the  13th,  we  made  Mount  Tenin  Island.  Du- 
ring the  day  we  were  engaged  in  surveying  it.  This 
island  is  low  and  composed  of  corals,  with  a coral 
reef  surrounding  it.  The  surface  of  the  island  is  cov- 
ered with  low  shrubbery  and  high  grass.  Some  of 
our  scientific  gentlemen,  by  dint  of  swimming  through 
a strong  surf,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  shore,  where 
some  specimens  of  shell,  coral,  & c.  were  obtained. 

6 


62 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


No  natives  were  seen  at  this  time,  but  as  there  had 
been  evident  signs  of  natives  seen  the  day  before,  and 
our  party  not  knowing  their  disposition,  desisted  from 
venturing  far  into  the  bushes,  fearing  a rencounter 
with  them. 

On  the  following  day  Captain  Wilkes,  accompa- 
nied by  several  officers  and  scientific  gentlemen,  with 
a strong  party  of  armed  men,  left  the  ship  with  the  in- 
tention of  visiting  the  shore,  and,  if  a landing  could 
be  effected,  to  examine  the  interior  of  the  island,  and 
have  intercourse  with  the  natives.  For  the  further- 
ance of  this  object  he  had  provided  himself  with 
some  presents  for  the  natives  in  order  to  gain  their 
esteem  and  confidence.  As  the  boats  approached  the 
shore  they  found  that  the  natives  had  assembled  to  * 
the  number  of  a hundred  or  more,  and  posted  them- 
selves along  the  beach,  armed  with  spears,  clubs,  and 
bows  and  arrows;  and  indicated  their  intention  to 
attack  them  should  they  presume  to  land.  They 
were  evidently  savages  in  the  wildest  state,  and  from 
their  movements,  we  were  induced  to  believe  that 
they  never  had  seen  white  men  before.  Captain 
Wilkes  endeavored  to  make  them  understand  the  in- 
tention of  his  visit  and  his  friendly  disposition  toward 
them,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  They  persisted  in  their 
determination  to  resist,  and  oppose  our  landing. 
They  were  all  perfectly  naked,  men.  women  and 
children  indiscriminately.  Our  party  thinking  to  in- 
timidate them,  fired  several  of  their  pieces  loaded 
with  small  shot  among  them ; this,  instead  of  having 
the  desired  effect,  only  served  to  irritate  them  more. 
The  effect  produced  by  the  small  shot  was  very 
slight,  probably  not  entering  the  skin ; it  only  made  a 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


63 


smarting  sensation  for  a few  moments.  They  re- 
treated to  the  bushes  for  a short  time,  and  then  re- 
turned, manifesting  their  anger  in  loud  yells  and 
hideous  grimaces.  Captain  Wilkes  finding  it  impos- 
sible to  reconcile  the  natives,  and  not  wishing  to  shed 
innocent  blood,  gave  up  the  idea  of  forcing  a landing,* 
and  therefore  soon  after  returned  to  the  ship. 

On  the  following  day  we  made  the  Island  of  Hon- 
den,  and  at  dark,  hove  to  for  the  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  commenced  the  survey  of  it.  This  island  is 
small  and  unimportant,  except  as  it  lays  in  the  track 
of  vessels  bound  to  more  important  islands.  It  was 
surveyed  by  Captain  Wilkes,  and  its  position  correct- 
ly laid  down  on  the  chart.  The  bearings  of  the  most 
important  points  were  taken,  and  the  soundings 
about  the  reefs  ascertained.  We  caught  three  large 
turtles,  a species  that  grows  very  large ; some  arrive 
to  an  enormous  size.  Those  that  we  caught  weighed 
about  two  hundred  pounds.  Some  specimens  of 
beche-le-mer  were  obtained  and  cured  for  the  govern- 
ment. 

At  meridian,  on  the  22d  inst.  we  discovered  an- 
other island,  and  at  five  o’clock  came  up  with  it.  A 
white  flag  was  flying  on  shore,  an  emblem  of  peace 
among  the  islands.  At  dark,  tacked  ship  and  stood 
on  and  off  during  the  night.  In  the  morning  boats 
were  sent  to  survey  it,  which  was  completed  by  ten 
o’clock,  and  we  stood  on  our  course. 

On  the  24th  August,  made  Disappointment  Island, 
one  of  the  islands  belonging  to  the  Dangerous  Archi- 
pelago. At  three  o’clock  a canoe  came  along,  filled 
with  natives,  but  we  could  not  prevail  on  any  of 
them  to  come  on  board,  although  presents  were  offer- 


64 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ed  them.  They  were  shy,  but  offered  no  signs  of 
hostility.  In  their  external  appearance  they  much 
resemble  the  Clearmont  Island  natives.  They  were 
stout  looking  men,  well  proportioned  in  all  respects, 
and  the  most  of  them  were  young,  but  very  dirty. 
They  wore  their  hair  long,  which  was  coarse  and 
black,  and  hung  down  the  back.  They  were  in  a 
perfectly  denuded  state,  except  a piece  of  dirty  tappa 
passed  round  the  waist.  At  twelve  a boat  was  sent 
on  shore  with  presents  for  them  in  charge  of  an  officer. 
When  on  shore  the  natives  showed  no  signs  of  fear, 
as  they  did  while  alongside  of  the  ship  in  their  canoes. 
They  accepted  the  presents  and  seemed  to  be  very 
thankful.  In  return,  they  sent  on  board  some  speci- 
mens of  shells  and  a few  of  pearl.  Next  morning  we 
left  Disappointment  Island ; and  at  meridian  on  the 
same  day^  discovered  King’s  Island,  so  called  after 
the  look-out  man,  who  discovered  it.  It  is  a small 
island,  about  four  or  five  miles  in  circumference,  and 
in  breadth  not  more  than  one.  Its  rise  from  the  wa- 
ter to  the  most  elevated  spot,  is  not  more  than  twenty 
feet.  Its  shores  are  every  where  marked  with  gener- 
al sterility.  The  most  remarkable  spot  is  a lagoon 
of  fresh  water,  which  runs  through  nearly  the  whole 
extent  of  the  island.  A small  aperture  runs  into 
the  south  end,  by  which  the  congregated  waters  of 
the  laguna  are  poured  into  the  sea.  This  laguna 
abounds  in  fish  of  a great  variety ; some  were  caught, 
and  found  to  be  extremely  well  flavored.  They 
made  quite  an  agreeable  change,  after  having  lived 
upon  “salt  junk  ” for  two  months.  This  island  was 
surveyed,  and  the  bearings  of  some  of  the  most  re- 
markable points  taken. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


65 


On  the  following  day,  31st  August,  we  made  Rara- 
ka  Island,  and  about  nine  o’clock  came  up  with  it. 
At  ten,  Captain  Wilkes  went  on  shore,  and  returned 
shortly  after,  bringing  with  him  three  natives,  one  of 
whom  was  a chief.  The  chief  was  an  old  man, — I 
should  judge,  about  sixty  years  of  age. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  we  made  and  passed  a 
chain  of  low  islands  called  the  Dangerous  Archipel- 
ago. At  four  o’clock,  we  came  up  with  a small  isl- 
and, which,  not  being  found  on  any  chart,  Capt. 
Wilkes  called  u Vincennes  Island,”  after  the  name  of 
the  ship.  It  is  situated  in  the  latitude  of  15  deg.  48 
min.  south,  and,  like  its  neighbors,  is  very  low.  It  is 
of  coral  formation,  and  surrounded  by  a coral  reef. 
None  of  these  islands  afford  any  anchorage  for  ves- 
sels of  the  smallest  size,  and  no  safe  landing  even  for 
boats. 

At  9 o’clock,  Sept.  3d,  came  up  with  Karlshoff  Isl- 
and. Lowered  a boat  and  sent  ashore,  which  soon 
returned  with  three  natives,  who  informed  the  captain 
that  hogs,  fowls  and  cocoa-nuts  might  be  obtained  at 
this  island.  In  the  evening  a boat  was  sent  on  shore 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a supply  of  water.  She 
returned  with  about  , five  hundred  gallons  of  very  ex- 
cellent water.  This  was  found  in  a lagoon  in  the 
middle  of  the  island.  The  water  was  good  for  pre- 
sent use,  but  will  not  keep  long  at  sea,  owing  to  its 
being  impregnated  with  animalcules,  which  putrify 
and  cause  it  to  be  decomposed.  On  this  island  we 
found  a partial  supply  of  cocoa-nuts  and  breadfruit, 
which,  together  with  the  fish,  constitute  the  principal 
food  of  the  natives. 

At  9 o’clock,  Sept.  8th,  came  up  with  Fly  Island. 

6* 


66 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


Two  canoes  came  off,  bringing  with  them  a present 
of  shells  for  the  Expedition.  This  island  is  small, 
and  rises  gradually  from  the  sea  to  sixty  or  seventy 
feet,  in  the  centre.  It  is  thickly  covered  with  bread- 
fruit and  lofty  cocoa-nut  trees.  The  acclivities  of  the 
rising  ground  were  handsomely  variegated  with  shrub- 
bery and  green  verdure. 


CHAPTER  Y. 


Island  of  Matavai — Visit  of  the  Consul — Expedition — Sermon  by 
Rev.  Mr.  Wilson — Conduct  of  the  American  Consul — Treaty — ■ 
Interview  with  the  Natives — Description  of  the  Islands — Traits 
of  the  Inhabitants — Effects  of  Missionary  labor. 


u Unmixed  with  aught  of  meaner  tone, 

Here  nature’s  voice  is  heard  alone  ; 

When  the  loud  storm,  in  wrathful  hour, 

Is  rushing  on  its  wings  of  power, 

And  spirits  of  the  deep  awake, 

And  surges  foam,  and  billows  break, 

And  rocks  and  ocean-caves  around, 

Reverberate  each  awful  sound  5 

That  mighty  voice,  with  all  its  dread  control, 

To  loftiest  thought  shall  wake  thy  thrilling  soul.” 

Mrs.  Hemans. 

At  9 o’clock,  Sept.  9.  the  high  and  rugged  peaks  of 
Matavai  Island  were  seen  to  emerge  from  ocean,  and 
as  we  approached  them,  became  more  and  more  visi- 
ble, while  the  surrounding  objects  were  becoming  more 
and  more  interesting  until  the  mountain  tops  were 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


67 


seen  above  the  clouds.  This  island  is  exceedingly 
fertile,  producing  lofty  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  the  sides 
of  the  mountain  are  covered  with  dense  vegetation, 
extending  down  the  acclivity  nearly  reaching  the  wa- 
ter’s edge.  It  affords,  as  one  approaches  it,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful,  picturesque  and  romantic  landscapes 
that  we  have  yet  met  with  any  where  among  the  isl- 
ands. 

At  10  o’clock  we  anchored,  and  commenced  sur- 
veying it.  We  saw  two  beautiful  villages  along  the 
coast,  only  a mile  or  two  apart.  These  villages  are 
embowered  in  breadfruit  trees,  which  protect  them 
from  the  scorching  sun  of  a tropical  climate,  and  sup- 
ply the  natives  with  food,  which  they  have  only  to 
pluck  from  the  trees  overhanging  their  habitations. 
There  are  several  missionaries,  natives  of  Otaheite, 
residing  here,  who,  by  their  influence  and  example, 
have  done  much  to  convert  them  to  the  Christian  re- 
ligion. In  each  village  they  have  a neat  little  chapel. 
Deciding  to  leave  at  5 o’clock,  we  made  sail  and  stood 
for  Otaheite,  distant  about  fifty  miles. 

On  Tuesday,  10th  Sept.,  after  a pleasant  voyage, 
we  came  to  anchor  in  Matavai  Bay,  off  Point  Venus. 
The  island  of  Otaheite  is  the  most  important  one  of 
the  Georgian  Group.  We  had  scarcely  come  to  an- 
chor when  the  ship  was  plentifully  furnished  with 
necessary  supplies  from  the  canoes  which  literally 
surrounded  us. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  at  this  island,  we  were 
joined  by  the  Peacock,  with  which  we  had  parted 
some  days  previous.  We  were  all  busily  engaged  in 
making  preparations  for  our  contemplated  observa- 
tions, and  also  in  fitting  up  temporary  accommoda- 


68 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


tions  for  the  sick  of  the  squadron.  The  queen  kindly 
offered  the  use  of  a fine  airy  house  on  Point  Venus 
for  this  purpose.  This  is  the  place  where  the  cele- 
brated English  circumnavigator,  Capt.  James  Cook, 
observed  the  transit  of  Venus,  and  since  that  time,  in 
honor  of  the  circumstance,  it  has  been  designated  by 
that  name. 

On  the  12th,  an  expedition  for  an  exploration  of  the 
interior  of  the  island,  consisting  of  the  following  per- 
sons, was  projected  : — Dr.  Pickering,  Naturalist ; Mr. 
Peal,  Zoologist ; Mr.  Breckenridge,  Horticulturist ; 
Dr.  Guillon,  Meteorologist;  Lieut.  Emmons,  Hydrog- 
rapher  ; Serg’t  Stearns,  Ass’t  Naturalist  Dep’t ; Sam- 
uel Sutton,  seaman,  Taxedermist ; John  Brooks,  sea- 
man of  the  Vincennes,  and  one  seaman  from  the  Brig 
Porpoise  ; Mr.  Lewis,  resident  at  Papiete,  as  interpre- 
ter and  guide  ; and  eight  natives,  to  carry  baggage. 

The  object  of  the  expedition,  as  far  as  I could  learn, 
was  as  follows.  First,  to  visit  the  lake,  situated  on 
the  most  elevated  part  of  the  island,  and  then,  if  pos- 
sible, to  reach  the  highest  extremity  of  the  mountain  ; 
ascertain  the  productions  of  the  country, — vegetable, 
marine,  mineral,  and  animal.  Also,  to  visit  all  places 
celebrated  in  history,  learn  something  of  their  inhabi- 
tants, former  mode  of  worshiping  places;  obtain  all 
natural  and  artificial  curiosities  worthy  of  notice ; 
survey  the  lake,  and  make  specific  and  general  obser- 
vations on  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  islanders. 

As  we  approached  the  land  we  were  delighted  with 
the  verdure,  luxuriance  and  beauty  of  the  landscape, 
opening  to  us  a beautiful,  fertile  country,  and  a hand- 
somely built  native  church.  The  land  about  the 
beach  to  the  southward  and  westward,  is  very  low, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


69 


while  that  to  the  northward  and  eastward  is  mode- 
rately high.  The  bay  is  about  two  miles  wide  and 
one  deep,  perfectly  safe  and  easy  of  access.  The 
country  is  beautifully  sprinkled  with  trees  of  lofty 
cocoa-nut  growing  so  near  the  beach  that  their  roots 
are  denuded  by  the  surf ; and  a little  back  from  the 
shore  are  to  be  seen  breadfruit,  pananas,  and  ti,  and 
handsomely  variegated  with  shrubbery  and  parasitical 
plants  of  the  richest  foliage.  Cocoa-nuts  here  are  very 
abundant,  and  afford  a very  grateful  beverage  to  the 
weary  traveler,  and  is  an  excellent  drink  in  a hot 
day.  The  land  begins  to  rise  a few  miles  back  from 
the  village,  and  continues  its  rise  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles,  extending  to  a thick  wood,  encircling  Obreno. 
The  beach  is  covered  with  varied  vegetation. 

The  mission-hou  ie  is  pleasantly  situated  about  one 
hundred  yards  from  the  beach,  obscured  from  our 
view  by  a skirt  of  wood,  growing  on  a small  stream 
which  runs  parallel  with  the  beach,  embowered  in 
the  branches  of  the  wide-spreading  breadfruit  trees, 
the  fruit  of  which  overhangs  their  habitations,  where 
they  have  only  to  go  out  of  their  houses  and  pluck  it 
as  they  want  it  for  use.  The  chapel  is  situated  a few 
hundred  yards  from  the  beach,  and  about  the  same 
distance  from  the  mission-house.  It  is  a building  ca- 
pable of  holding  one  thousand  persons.  Mr.  Wilson 
is  the  missionary  here,  and  the  oldest  one  on  the  isl- 
ands. He  was  among  the  number  who  visited  this 
island  in  1812,  and  was  sent  out  by  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society. 

I had  the  curiosity  to  visit  the  chapel  a few  days 
since,  and  was  much  amused  at  the  vocal  perform- 
ance. The  chapel  is  a large,  airy  building,  but  in 


70 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


rather  a dilapidated  state.  I was  told  that  the  audi- 
ence was  not  as  numerous  as  on  ordinary  occasions, 
numbering  only  about  four  hundred.  They  all  be- 
haved in  a very  becoming  manner,  and  gave  unusual 
attention  to  the  remarks  of  the  preacher.  The  na- 
tives were  better  clad,  generally,  than  I expected  to 
find  them  ; and  some  of  the  females  manifested  con- 
considerable  taste  in  their  dress.  Mr.  Wilson,  so  far 
as  T was  able  to  judge  in  listening  to  his  sermon  in  an 
unknown  tongue,  is  a good  preacher ; at  least  he  is  a 
good  orator.  At  the  close  of  the  service,  great  regu- 
larity was  observed  in  leaving  the  house ; the  people 
waited  for  each  other  till  all  could  leisurely  retire. 
Captains  Wilkes  and  Hudson,  and  many  of  the  offi- 
cers, were  present.  The  hymns  which  they  sung 
were  all  set  to  English  tunes. 

There  was  something  peculiarly  touching  in  this, 
however  trifling  the  circumstance  may  seem  to  the 
reader.  Imagine  the  peculiarity — not  to  say  awk- 
wardness of  our  position — while  listening  with  appa- 
rent interest,  to  a sermon  of  which  we  could  not  un- 
derstand a syllable,  not  even  able  to  determine  wheth- 
er it  was  the  promulgation  of  divine  truth,  or  pagan 
superstitions,  from  any  thing  that  we  could  detect. 
As  the  service  advances,  the  hymn  is  announced,  read 
in  the  same  Babel-like  language,  and  as  its  measured 
strains  fall  upon  the  ear,  we  detect  the  harmony  of 
il  Old  Hundred,”  u Mear,”  or  “ St.  Martin’s,”  which, 
perchance,  have  greeted  our  dawn  of  existence,  and 
quieted  us  in  the  restlessness  of  childhood  ! Who 
will  wonder  that  such  music  has  power  to  call  up 
pleasing  associations?  Who  will  wonder  that  our 
attention  was  riveted  upon  that  native  choir,  while 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


71 


the  cherished  events  of  other  days  came  crowding 
thick  around  us  ? 

Mr.  Murenhaut,  now  French  Consul,  but  formerly 
American  Consul,  visited  us  during  our  stay  in  this 
place.  About  twelve  months  ago  his  wife  was  mur- 
dered, and  he  came  near  being  killed,  by  a Peruvian 
whom  they  had  in  their  employ.  It  appeared  that  it 
was  his  intention  to  rob  the  house,  after  he  had  fin- 
ished his  atrocious  deed.  The  blow  that  killed  his 
wife  was  intended  for  him ; when  she  saw  it  aimed 
at  him,  she  interposed  herself  between  the  murderer 
and  her  husband,  and  received  the  blow,  which  caused 
her  death  almost  instantaneously.  The  murderer 
was  apprehended,  tried  and  convicted  for  it,  and  suf- 
fered death  ten  days  after  the  sentence  was  passed  on 
him.  He  was  hanged.  This  is  the  first  execution 
that  has  taken  place  on  this  island  for  some  years. 

About  twelve  months  since,  two  French  Catholic 
priests  arrived  on  this  island,  and,  without  the  con- 
sent of  the  government,  commenced  to  teach  the  Cath- 
olic religion  to  the  poor  natives.  But  as  soon  as  the 
Q,ueen  was  informed  of  it  she  strenuously  opposed 
their  proceedings ; of  course  she  was  advised  by  the 
Protestant  clergy  to  discountenance  the  religion, — tell- 
ing her  that  they  worshiped  idols  and  images,  and 
would  in  a few  years  be  masters  of  the  island.  She 
ordered  them  to  depart  from  her  dominions  by  the 
first  opportunity;  but  they  heeded  her  not,  and  de- 
layed their  departure  when  an  opportunity  offered, 
until  they  worried  the  patience  of  the  Queen.  Find- 
ing that  the  mild  and  persuasive  orders  were  not  no- 
ticed, she  determined  to  force  them  away.  Accord- 
ingly she  called  a council  of  chiefs,  and  her  adviser, 


72 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


Mr.  Pritchard.  It  was  agreed  that  a small  vessel 
should  be  chartered  for  that  purpose,  and  in  her  they 
should  he  sent  to  South  America,  where  the  Catholic 
religion  was  tolerated.  The  priests  when  hearing 
that  they  were  To  be  forced  away,  moved  to  the  house 
of  Mr.  Murenhaut,  the  American  consul ; he  had  pre- 
viously promised  them  protection  under  the  American 
flag.  The  authorities  of  the  island  sent  and  had  them 
forcibly  taken  away,  and  conveyed  on  board  the  ves- 
sel, which  was  destined  to  take  them  away,  and  they 
were  conveyed  in  safety  to  the  coast  of  South  Ameri- 
ca, at  the  expense  of  the  Tahitian  government. 

For  this  act  of  self-preservation  and  right,  the  king 
of  the  French  sent  a Frigate,  and  extorted  from  them 
two  thousand  dollars.  On  account  of  this  affair,  the 
President  of  the  United  States  turned  Mr.  Murenhaut 
out  of  office.  He  was  shortly  afterwards  appointed 
consul  for  the  French. 

While  at  this  place  a council  was  held  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Papiete  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a commer- 
cial treaty  between  the  United  States  and  the  govern- 
ment of  the  Society  Islands.  Queen  Pomarri  could 
not  attend  on  account  of  indisposition,  and  therefore 
sent  her  representative.  Most  of  the  officers  of  the 
squadron  were  present,  dressed  in  full  uniform,  cocked 
hats,  swords  and  epaulettes.  The  treaty  was  formed 
and  signed  by  both  parties,  and  I believe  proved  sat- 
isfactory to  all. 

Having  finished  the  survey  of  the  harbor,  and  com- 
pleted the  series  of  observations  at  the  observatory  on 
Point  Yenus,  we  got  underway  and  proceeded  to  Pa- 
piete, the  principal  village  on  the  island,  situated 
about  five  miles  from  Matavai  Bay,  where  we  arrived 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


73 


on  the  same  evening.  The  harbor  of  Papiete  is  safe, 
commodious,  and  easy  of  access.  There  were  then 
lying  here  three  American  whale  ships,  one  missionary 
brig  and  one  trading  brig.  The  harbor  is  protected 
from  the  violence  of  the  waves  by  a coral  reef.  As 
you  enter  the  harbor,  you  pass  on  the  right  side  of  an 
old  mud  fort,  in  a dilapidated  state.  The  land  in  the 
vicinity  of  Papiete  is  much  higher,  and  rises  more 
abruptly  than  at  Matavai  Bay.  The  shores  are  gen- 
erally clothed  in  green  verdure,  extending  within  a 
few  yards  of  the  water’s  edge.  It  has  a beautiful  and 
rich  appearance;  the  village  is  a neat  one,  situated 
about  the  middle  of  the  curvature  of  the  beach.  It  is 
composed  of  several  wooden  buildings,  built  and 
owned  by  foreigners,  one  native  church,  and  a neat 
seamen’s  chapel,  built  near  the  water.  The  native 
houses  are  about  two  hundred  in  number,  built  of 
bamboo,  in  the  shape  of  our  hay  stacks  at  home,  leav- 
ing both  ends  open.  All  the  furniture  they  possess, 
is  a few  folds  of  tappa , and  one  or  two  mats  on  which 
to  lie,  with  a block  of  wood  for  a pillow.  The  mis- 
sionaries have  a flourishing  village  here,  and  have  the 
principal  control  of  the  island. 

At  11  o’clock,  Mr.  Pritchard,  English  consul,  and 
formerly  principal  missionary  to  this  island,  preached 
on  board.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  lady,  and  two 
interesting  little  girls.  Many  of  the  foreign  residents, 
and  two  of  the  chiefs  were  present.  Mr.  Pritchard  is 
the  Queen’s  adviser ; — is  consulted  on  all  occasions  of 
importance,  and  what  he  decides  upon,  she  never  re- 
fuses to  sanction.  Mr.  Pritchard  sometimes  preaches 
in  the  seamen’s  chapel,  as  there  is  no  seamen’s  chap- 
lain here.  This  is  a great  resort  for  our  whalemen, 
7 


74 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


who  come  here  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting,  and 
sometimes  for  repairs. 

During  our  stay  we  were  honored  by  a visit  from 
the  principal  chiefs,  and  two  Tahitian  princesses, 
sisters  to  Queen  Pomarri, — also  by  the  English  and 
American  consuls,  the  English  consul  acting  as  in- 
terpreter. The  two  princesses  were  neatly  attired  in 
light  frocks,  made  after  the  European  fashion,  with 
pink  waist,  ribbons  and  straw  bonnets,  and  shoes, 
with  silk  stockings.  Some  of  the  principal  chiefs 
were  neatly  dressed  in  plain  citizen’s  clothes,  made 
also  after  the  European  fashion,  but  the  inferior  chiefs 
and  attendants  wore  nothing  but  tappa  wrapped  round 
the  waist,  serving  for  trowsers ; while  some  of  them 
wore  nothing  but  shirts.  The  two  princesses  behaved 
very  modestly,  but  appeared  quite  at  their  ease. 
After  partaking  of  a sumptuous  entertainment,  which 
was  prepared  for  them  in  the  cabin,  they  visited  the 
different  parts  of  the  ship,  attended  by  the  officers. 
At  almost  every  step  something  attracted  their  atten- 
tion, on  which  they  would  stop  and  gaze  till  they 
were  invited  to  look  at  something  else.  After  visiting 
the  different  parts  of  the  ship  they  retired  on  shore ; 
but  before  leaving,  Capt.  Wilkes  made  them  some 
handsome  presents,  and  also  some  presents  to  their 
attendants.  Among  the  presents  to  the  two  princess- 
es was  a musical  box  to  each,  with  which  they  were 
highly  delighted. 

The  Island  of  Tahiti,  and  all  the  Society  Islands 
are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Queen  Pomarri,  and  from 
her  the  power  and  charge  of  the  different  governors 
and  chiefs  of  districts  are  derived.  The  royal  resi- 
dence was  once  in  this  village,  but  since  her  troubles 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


75 

with  the  French  priests,  she  has  changed  it  to  the  west 
side  of  the  island,  where  she  lives  a more  retired  life, 
and  considers  herself  more  safe  from  the  encroachment 
of  her  enemies. 

Common  People.  This  class  constitutes  all  that- 
portion  who  are  not  ranked  with  the  chiefs  and  land- 
holders, which  is  about  two  thirds  of  the  whole  ; the 
latter  are  an  entirely  different  people  in  their  manners 
and  external  appearance.  Their  labor  is  not  exten- 
sive, for  the  spontaneous  productions  of  the  islands 
are  enough  for  their  support  at  all  seasons  of  the  year; 
hence  it  is  to  be  expected  that  they  live  a very  indo- 
lent life.  The  universal  dress  for  the  females  of  the 
common  order,  is  a piece  of  tappa , calico,  or  cotton 
cloth,  fastened  loosely  around  the  waist,  and  covers 
the  whole  of  the  lower  portion  of  the  body  as  far  down 
as  the  knees ; the  chest  and  shoulders  are  always 
left  bare,  which  they  take  great  pride  in  exhibiting  to 
the  public.  Some  few  of  the  common  class  may  be 
seen  dressed  in  frocks.  Shoes  are  a luxury  that  but 
few  of  the  fair  sex  aspire  to ; however,  for  comfort, 
their  climate  is  so  mild  that  they  do  not  require  them. 
The  men  have  their  hair  cut  short  on  the  top  of  the 
head,  and  some,  shaved  quite  closely. 

The  whole  mass  of  the  native  population  may  be 
called  merely  nominal  Christians,  although  the  whole 
of  them  profess  Christianity.  Missionaries  have  at 
length  found  out  their  mistake  in  regard  to  the  reli- 
gious principles  and  actions  of  the  natives.  The  fe- 
males are  generally  extremely  salacious,  much  more 
so  than  the  men.  Polygamy  is  not  allowed  to  be 
practiced  openly,  but  adultery  prevails  secretly  to  an 
unknown  extent.  There  is  no  doubt  but  prostitution 


76 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


is  carried  to  a greater  length  now,  than  when  they 
were  in  a state  of  pagan  darkness.  The  inquirer 
would  say,  what  is  the  cause  of  this  ? I would  an- 
swer. they  have  more  wants  to  supply,  since  they 
have  become  acquainted  with  the  civilized  world; 
luxuries  they  never  dreamed  of  when  in  their  natural 
state.  And  they  have  no  means  of  obtaining  them  in 
any  other  way.  Consequently  you  will  find  men 
prostituting  their  own  daughters,  and  very  often  the 
wife,  for  a dollar.  Precocity  exists  here  among  the  fe- 
males in  an  eminent  degree,  and  is  manifest  to  a greater 
extent  than  in  any  place  I have  yet  visited.  It  is  not  an 
uncommon  thing  to  see  mothers  at  the  age  of  twelve, 
and  old  women  at  the  age  of  twenty-four. 

Sept.  25th.  At  daylight  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
stood  over  for  the  beautiful  and  romantic  little  Island 
of  Eimeo,  distant  about  fifteen  miles  from  Papiete. 
At  1 o’clock  we  came  to  anchor  close  in  shore,  and 
near  the  principal  village  and  missionary  station. 
The  harbor  of  Eimeo  is  open  and  exposed  to  the  west- 
erly winds ; however,  it  seldom  blows  with  such  vio- 
lence as  to  do  any  damage  to  shipping. 

The  natural  productions  of  this  island  are  nearly 
the  same  as  at  Otaheite.  There  are  some  very  high 
mountains  on  this  island;  some  rise  abruptly  from 
the  sea  to  the  height  of  twelve  hundred  feet.  The 
coast  is  composed  of  lofty,  craggy  peaks,  overhanging 
the  surf-beaten  shore.  When  approaching  this  island, 
from  the  first  view,  it  presents  a sterile  aspect ; but 
on  a nearer  approach,  one  finds  the  appearance 
changed,  and  the  prospect  more  lively  and  animating  ; 
and  when  you  enter  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  you 
perceive  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains  clothed  in 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


77 


green  verdure  and  dense  vegetation.  Then  the  val- 
leys open  to  your  view,  presenting  lofty  cocoa-nut 
trees,  breadfruit  trees,  and  ornamented  with  a variety 
of  fruit  trees.  Oranges,  limes  and  pine  apples  were 
ripe,  and  in  great  abundance. 

The  missionaries  here  have  a beautiful  station,  and 
fine  field  for  the  exercise  of  their  labors.  They  have 
two  schools,  and  a printing  press  in  full  operation. 
Messrs.  Simpson  and  Scott  are  the  Missionaries  who 
reside  here.  It  is  said  to  be  the  birth-place  of  the 
husband  of  the  present  Queen,  and  when  she  married 
him,  he  was  only  a common  native.  I noticed  a dis- 
ease among  these  islands,  which  appears  to  be  more 
common  here.  It  is  “ Elephantiases,”  which  the  na- 
tives call  Fe.  This  disease  has  its  principal  action 
on  the  lower  extremities,  and  extends  upwards,  some- 
times till  the  whole  thigh  is  affected ; but  I have  never 
seen  more  than  one  limb  affected  at  a time.  I saw 
one  so  swollen  that  it  measured  thirty-six  inches  in 
circumference. 

After  having  completed  the  survey  of  the  bay,  on 
the  27th  Sept.,  got  underway  and  proceeded  to  sea, 
steering  W.  N.  W.  At  sunset  passed  the  Island  of 
Herniene,  another  of  the  Georgian  Group.  This 
island  is  small  and  unimportant.  On  the  28th,  we 
passed  a number  of  the  Georgian  Group,  all  of  which 
were  small,  but  covered  with  vegetation. 

On  the  9th  of  Oct,  we  arrived  at  the  Island  of 
Opoun,  and  the  surveyers  and  scientific  gentlemen 
commenced  their  respective  duties  immediately. 
There  was  but  little  of  importance  on  this  island. 

During  the  evening  a number  of  canoes  came  along- 
side, with  natives ; bringing  cocoa-nuts  and  other 
7* 


78 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


fruit,  for  trade.  On  rounding  the  point  of  islands  we 
discovered  Toufon  and  Leon,  two  small  islands  west 
of  Opoun.  These  islands  form  a group  called  the 
Tomalooah  Islands ; the  natives  are  the  same  in  all 
respects  as  those  of  the  Navigator  Islands.  We  en- 
gaged in  surveying,  in  the  meantime  carrying  on  a 
brisk  trade  with  the  natives  for  fruit  and  specimens  of 
shells,  giving  them  tobacco  and  fish-hooks  in  ex- 
change. Powder  they  were  very  anxious  to  get,  but 
this  we  would  not  let  them  have,  fearing  serious  con- 
sequences. We  were  informed  that  a destructive  war 
had  been  raging  between  these  two  islands,  which 
caused  the  extermination  of  one  half  of  the  natives  of 
both  islands. 

There  were  several  white  men  living  on  the  island 
to  which  the  natives  belonged,  who  were  alongside. 
They  appeared  to  be  abandoned,  runaway  sailors,  who 
had  deserted  from  whale  ships  that  had  touched  here 
for  supplies  of  fresh  provisions.  They  informed  us 
that  the  natives  treated  them  well ; they  had  land 
given  them,  but  would  not  allow  them  to  intermarry. 

After  leaving  Opoun,  we  next  directed  our  course 
to  Tutuilla,  one  of  the  Navigator  Islands,  and  an- 
chored in  Pan  go  Pango  Bay,  on  the  south  side.  All 
was  still  and  quiet  on  shore,  from  the  fact — as  we  af- 
terwards learned — that  it  was  their  Sabbath.  Reli- 
gious services  were  performed  on  board  of  the  ship, 
on  the  following  day,  by  our  Chaplain,  in  accordance 
with  our  custom  during  the  Expedition.  Indeed,  we 
have  not  met  with  any  natives,  however  degraded, 
who  had  not  some  vague  views,  at  least,  of  a Power 
superior  to  themselves.  And  it  is  questioned  whether 
such  can  be  found. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


79 


The  natives  of  the  Navigators  resemble  those  of  the 
Society  Islands  in  their  complexion  and  features,  but 
there  is  a great  difference  in  their  language.  Their 
huts  are  built  in  the  same  shape  and  constructed  of 
the  same  materials.  I saw  some  females  engaged  in. 
their  domestic  occupations,  such  as  making  mats, 
tappa , fishing  nets,  &c.  They  appear  more  industri- 
ous than  the  females  of  Tahiti.  In  some  parts  of  the 
island  polygamy  is  still  practiced,  but  at  this  village 
it  is  openly  discountenanced  by  all  the  chiefs  and  the 
people.  No  man,  of  whatever  rank  he  may  be,  is  al- 
lowed to  have  more  than  one  wife.  The  missionaries 
should  have  the  credit  of  abolishing  this  practice.  By 
their  laws  the  crime  of  adultery  is  punished  with 
death  ; this  rigid  law  causes  their  chastity  to  be  pre- 
served inviolate.  Seldom  indeed  does  a case  of  adul- 
tery occur;  but  when  it  does,  if  the  offenders  are  de- 
tected, they  never  fail  to  suffer  the  penalty  of  the  law. 
The  females  are  very  reserved  in  their  manners.  I 
was  struck  with  admiration  and  astonishment  at  the 
conduct  of  these  females,  on  all  occasions.  They 
never  suffer  any  liberties  to  be  taken  with  them,  and 
seem  particularly  cautious  in  their  intercourse  with 
foreigners.  Salaciousness  does  not  exist  here,  with 
the  females,  in  such  a high  degree  as  at  many  other 
islands  which  we  have  visited,  and  particularly  Ota- 
heite ; neither  is  precocity  so  common. 

The  whole  mass  of  the  natives  on  this  part  of 
the  island,  where  the  influence  of  the  missionaries 
is  felt,  seems  to  be  fast  advancing  to  a state  of  civ- 
ilization. They  manifest  a kind  disposition,  and 
have  a mind  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and  a thirst 
for  knowledge  is  universal  among  them ; especially 


80 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


at  this  village.  The  missionaries  have  wrought  a 
great  change  in  the  morals  of  these  people  in  a very 
short  time.  Mr.  Murray  is  the  missionary  who  has 
charge  of  this  station,  and  a polished  gentleman  he  is 
too.  He  is  devoted  to  the  missionary  cause,  and  in- 
defatigable in  his  labors  to  cultivate  and  sow  the  seeds 
of  the  Christian  religion  in  this  once  benighted  land 
of  Pagan  darkness.  He  has  two  flourishing  schools 
here,  in  each  about  three  hundred  scholars.  He  is 
assisted  by  native  teachers,  whom  he  has  instructed 
in  the  common  rudiments  of  knowledge,  and  implant- 
ed the  true  religion  in  their  hearts.  Mrs.  Murray,  his 
wife,  is  equally  interested  in  the  missionary  cause, 
and  is  also  at  the  head  of  a female  seminary,  where 
she  teaches  the  native  women  the  mode  of  manufac- 
turing their  own  clothes  and  making  straw  bonnets, 
in  which  some  of  them  have  become  quite  proficient. 
I saw  many  of  her  pupils  dressed  very  neatly  in  their 
own  manufacture.  They  present  quite  a pleasing 
contrast  to  their  neighbors,  the  “ devil  tribe,”  who  re- 
side only  a short  distance  from  them.  This  tribe  has 
refused  to  be  instructed  by  the  missionary,  and  still 
remains  in  their  primitive  state ; and  though  only  a 
few  miles  off,  never  visit  their  Christian  neighbors. 

On  the  following  Sunday  after  our  arrival,  Mr. 
Murray  preached  on  board  this  ship ; he  was  accom- 
panied by  his  wife,  and  one  or  two  missionaries  from 
other  stations  on  the  island. 

We  again  joined  our  consort,  the  Peacock,  at  Apia, 
and  also  the  missionary  Brig  Campden,  which  had 
been  in  company  with  us  at  Otaheite.  This  is  the 
most  fertile  and  by  far  the  handsomest  island  in  the 
whole  group.  The  land  rises  gradually  from  the  sea- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


81 


shore;  it  breaks  into  mountains  and  ridges  that  are 
covered  with  rich  foliage  and  green  verdure  almost  to 
their  summit.  The  shore  abounds  in  tracts  of  table 
land,  beautifully  sprinkled  and  variegated  with  clumps, 
groves  and  single  trees  of  the  breadfruit,  pandanas, 
and  cocoa-nut  trees,  forming  thick  and  deeply  shaded 
bowers,  overhanging  the  habitations  of  the  natives. 
Several  villages  are  scattered  along  the  coast,  with 
here  and  there  the  residence  of  a missionary,  and  a 
missionary  chapel. 


CHAPTER  YI. 


Visit  of  the  Christian  party — Appointments  of  the  Consul — The 
Samoa  Group — Trial  of  a Native — Embarking  of  the  Squad- 
ron— Wallace  Island — Arrival  at  New  Holland — Inhabitants. 


u O,  when  no  more  the  sea-winds  rave, 

When  peace  is  brooding  on  the  wave, 

No  sounds  but  plaintive  melodies  5 
Soothed  by  their  softly  mingling  swell, 

As  daylight  bids  the  world  farewell, 

The  rustling  wood,  the  dying  breeze, 

The  faint,  low  rippling  of  the  seas, 

A tender  calm  shall  steal  upon  thy  breast, 

A gleam  reflected  from  the  realms  of  rest.” 

On  the  following  day  we  were  visited  by  the  prin- 
cipal chief  of  the  Christian  party,  who  was  accom- 
panied by  his  wife  and  two  interesting  little  daugh- 
ters. together  with  a number  of  inferior  chiefs  and  at- 


82 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


tendants.  The  principal  chief  is  a man  of  about 
thirty  years  of  age,  and  of  copper  color.  He  was 
attired  in  a round-about  jacket,  made  of  blue  cloth, 
with  pantaloons  of  the  same,  a white  vest,  white 
shirt,  fur  hat,  and  shoes,  which  constituted  the  whole 
of  his  wearing  apparel.  His  wife  was  dressed  in  a 
calico  frock,  straw  bonnet,  but  wore  no  shoes.  Her 
husband  looked  like  a boy  by  her  side,  in  consequence 
of  her  unusual  corpulence.  The  two  daughters  were 
more  gaily  attired;  they  wore  gingham  frocks  with 
waist  ribbons,  straw  bonnets  and  morocco  shoes. 
The  inferior  chiefs  and  attendants  wore  nothing  but 
their  native  tappa:  wrapped  around  the  waist  so  as 
to  cover  all  the  lower  portion  of  the  person.  They 
behaved  themselves  with  much  more  propriety  than 
might  have  been  expected  from  beings  who  have  so 
lately  emerged  from  Pagan  darkness.  After  visiting 
the  different  parts  of  the  ship,  they  were  entertained 
in  the  ward-room,  where  a sumptuous  collation  had 
been  provided  for  the  occasion.  They  ate  heartily, 
but  drank  very  sparingly  of  wine.  On  the  following 
day  the  principal  chief,  attended  by  a number  of  his 
inferior  chiefs,  dined  in  the  cabin.  They  were  at- 
tended by  Mr.  Williams,  junior,  as  interpreter.  Du- 
ring his  stay  on  board  several  large  guns  were  fired, 
which  somewhat  alarmed  him  at  the  first  fire,  when 
he  came  immediately  on  deck,  and  seemed  to  be  in 
much  confusion;  but  was  soon  reconciled  by  Mr. 
Williams,  who  assured  him  that  no  harm  was  in- 
tended him. 

After  dinner  Captain  Wilkes  and  Captain  Hudson, 
with  most  of  the  officers,  accompanied  the  King  and 
chiefs  on  shore  to  the  mission-house,  where  from  one 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


83 


to  two  thousand  natives  had  assembled  to  witness  the 
exercise  of  small  arms  of  a party  of  our  marines  and 
seamen,  who  had  been  sent  on  shore  for  that  purpose. 
I was  astonished  to  see  such  an  assemblage  of  na- 
tives, mostly  dressed  in  the  native  costume,  wearing 
no  clothing  but  a piece  of  tappa  around  the  waist. 
They  were  doubtless  as  much  astonished  and  amus- 
ed at  seeing  us  perform  our  military  evolutions.  At 
first  they  crowded  around  us  very  eagerly,  but  at  a 
signal  from  the  old  chief,  they  retreated,  and  took  up 
their  position  at  a sufficient  distance  to  allow  us  room 
for  exercising,  marching,  firing,  &c.  Several  rounds  of 
blank  cartridge  were  fired,  which  much  pleased  the 
natives. 

On  the  same  evening  Mr.  Williams,  junior,  was  ap- 
pointed American  consul,  or  agent  for  the  Samoa 
Group,  and  the  American  flag  hoisted  at  his  house. 

GENERAL  REMARKS  AND  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  SAMOA 
GROUP. 

This  extensive  and  populous  group  is  situated  in 
the  South  Pacific  Ocean,  and  extends  four  degrees  east 
and  west.  It  was  discovered  on  the  4th  of  May,  1678, 
by  the  French  circumnavigator,  Bougamville,  who 
gave  it  the  name  it  now  bears,  probably  on  account 
of  the  superior  construction  of  their  canoes,  and 
their  surprising  dexterity  in  the  water.  The  group  is 
called  by  the  natives  Samoa,  and  consist  of  eight  isl- 
ands,— Manua,  Orogangi,  Ofu,  Tutuilla,  Upolu,  Mau- 
ona,  Aborima,  and  Savaii.  In  addition  to  these,  there 
are  several  small  islands  off  the  coast  of  Tutuilla  and 
Upolu.  In  the  year  1788  this  group  was  visited  by 
the  unfortunate  La  Parouse,  whose  colleague,  M.  de 


84 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


Langley  and  a number  of  his  men,  lost  their  lives  by 
being  barbarously  murdered  by  the  natives.  This 
tragical  act  conveyed  such  an  impression  of  their 
treachery  and  ferocity  as  deterred  subsequent  voyagers 
from  venturing  among  them.  And  for  many  years 
they  appear  not  to  have  been  visited  by  any  vessel 
from  the  civilized  world  until  a very  late  period,  when 
a missionary  station  was  established  here,  and  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Williams  was  among  the  number  who  first 
filled  this  station.  Tutuilla,  the  first  of  the  Naviga- 
tor islands  where  we  visited,  is  about  fifteen  miles 
west  from  Orogangi,  in  171  deg.  west  longitude,  and 
14  deg.  20  min.  south  latitude.  This  is  a fine  roman- 
tic Island,  of  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. It  was  here  that  the  unfortunate  M.  de 
Langley  lost  his  life  ; and  on  this  account  the  hay  in 
which  he  was  murdered  received  the  name  of  Massa- 
cre Bay.  In  passing  down  the  coast  you  pass  some 
fine  bays, — the  most  conspicuous  and  important  is 
Pango  Pango,  in  which  our  squadron  rendezvoused 
for  a few  days,  whilst  engaged  in  surveying  the  isl- 
ands. Into  this  bay  vessels  of  almost  any  class’  may 
run,  and  anchor  in  perfect  safety,  except  during  a 
strong  south  gale. 

Opolu,  the  next  island,  in  circumference  is  about 
seventy  miles.  The  mountains  on  this  island  are 
very  high,  and  in  clear  weather  may  be  seen  fifty  or 
sixty  miles.  These  are  richly  covered  with  verdure 
to  their  summit,  and  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  isl- 
and, they  present  a variety  in  their  form  and  charac- 
ter, which  in  some  instances  renders  their  appearance 
romantic  and  sublime;  in  others,  soft,  luxuriant  and 
beautiful.  It  has  been  stated  that  there  were  no  har- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


85 


bors  in  this  group,  but  at  this  island  alone,  we  found 
them  and  surveyed  them.  The  one  at  Apia,  in  which 
we  anchored,  is  commodious,  spacious  and  safe ; and 
as  it  faces  to  the  north,  it  admits,  with  the  prevailing 
trade  winds,  of  easy  ingress  and  egress.  The  bottom 
is  sandy,  and  at  twenty-five  yards  from  the  beach 
there  are  about  five  fathoms  of  water.  A river  runs 
into  the  bay,  so  that  any  quantity  of  fresh  water  may 
be  obtained  of  an  excellent  quality. 

A council  of  chiefs  was  held  on  board  the  Peacock 
for  the  trial  of  a native  who  had  been  accused  of  the 
murder  of  an  American  citizen,  about  twelve  months 
before.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Peacock  the  accused 
was  delivered  up  to  Capt.  Hudson,  and  since  that 
time  has  been  in  double  irons  on  board  that  vessel. 
He  was  found  guilty  by  the  council,  and  sentenced  to 
be  executed,  but  through  the  influence  of  Captains 
Wilkes  and  Hudson,  his  sentence  was  commuted  to 
banishment  for  life  to  Wallace  Island,  and  the  Pea- 
cock was  deputed  to  convey  him  to  his  exile  home. 

At  1 1 o’clock  on  the  1 1 th,  a signal  was  made  for  the 
squadron  to  get  underway,  and  by  2,  our  sails  were 
spread  to  the  breeze  of  heaven,  and  we  shortly  after 
lost  sight  of  the  beautiful  coast  of  Upolu.  Favored  with 
a strong  breeze  we  made  rapid  progress  on  our  course, 
and  at  4.  P.  M.,  on  the  12th,  we  came  up  with  Wal- 
lace Island  for  the  purpose  of  landing  the  prisoner 
whom  we  had  brought  from  Apia.  A number  of  ca- 
noes came  off  to  us,  and  in  one  was  a chief,  to  whom 
the  prisoner  was  given  in  charge,  with  strict  injunc- 
tions that  he  should  not  be  killed,  or  suffered  to  es- 
cape. 

From  the  view  I had  of  Wallace  Island,  I should 

8 


86 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


say  it  was  very  fertile,  and  capable  of  much  improve- 
ment. The  Island  seemed  to  abound  in  breadfruit 
and  cocoa-nut  trees,  with  a thickly  covered  surface  of 
vegetation.  The  natives  are  a savage-looking  race, 
and  are  said  to  be  very  barbarous. 

November  15th.  We  were  in  the  eastern  hemis- 
phere. Since  leaving  the  United  States,  we  had  gain- 
ed a day  by  our  time,  which  is  always  the  case  when 
vessels  double  Cape  Horn,  but  when  coming  round 
the  East  Cape  they  always  lose  a day.  On  the  18th, 
we  passed  Mathew's  Island.  It  is  a small  barren  isl- 
and of  about  one  or  two  hundred  yards  in  circumfer- 
ence, of  a circular  form,  and  is  about  400  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  water.  It  is  situated  in  the  latitude 
of  22  deg.  30  min.  south,  longitude  172  deg.  east. 

After  a short  passage  we  discovered  a light,  which 
proved  to  be  that  of  Sydney,  New  Holland,  where  we 
came  to  an  anchor  on  the  following  day.  In  the 
morning  the  citizens  were  not  a little  surprised  to  see 
a “ Yankee  Squadron  ” anchored  close  under  one  of 
their  principal  batteries.  And  they  were  still  more 
astonished  that  we  should  escape  the  sight  of 
their  supposed  vigilant  pilots.  They  have  hitherto 
considered  themselves  perfectly  secure  from  silent  in- 
truders, as  no  vessel  had  ever  entered  there,  either  by 
day  or  by  night,  without  the  assistance  of  a pilot. 

We  were  visited,  on  the  morning  after  our  arrival, 
by  Mr.  Williams,  American  Consul.  He  informed  us 
that  the  Relief  had  sailed  from  here  ten  days  previ- 
ous to  our  arrival,  bound  to  the  United  States,  whith- 
er she  had  been  ordered.  During  the  day>  several 
English  officers  visited  the  ship,  to  exchange  civilities 
with  the  officers. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


87 


We  soon  commenced  our  accustomed  survey  and 
collection,  which  were  among  the  more  prominent 
objects  of  the  Expedition.  In  the  mean  time  ample 
repairs  were  made,  with  necessary  arrangements,  pre- 
paratory to  our  voyage  to  the  southern  hemisphere, 
where  we  might  expect  to  combat  the  rigors  of  the  el- 
ements in  their  rudest  aspects. 

I visited  the  shore,  and  in  my  rambles  met  with 
some  of  the  aborigines, — the  most  miserable  beings  I 
ever  saw.  They  more  resemble  baboons  than  human 
beings.  Those  natives  are  so  little  known  in  our  part 
of  the  world,  that  I have  availed  myself  of  the  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  information  concerning  them  from 
different  sources,  all  of  which  will  be  fotmd  interest- 
ing. 

The  following  account  is  from  Mr.  F.  Armstrong, 
Botanist,  who  has  traveled  much  among  them  and 
understands  their  language,  and  probably  knows  more 
of  their  character  than  any  other  man. 

None  of  the  tribes  with  whom  the  interpreter  has 
had  communication,  seems  to  have  any  just  idea  of  a 
God.  He  has  very  often  attempted  to  convey  to  them 
the  idea  of  a Supreme  Being,  the  creator  of  themselves 
and  every  object  of  their  senses,  present  every  where 
and  at  all  times, — watching  the  actions  of  all  men ; 
adding,  that  good  men,  at  death,  ascend  to  him  in 
the  sky,  but  that  bad  men  (instancing  those  who 
spear  and  murder  others)  are,  when  they  die,  banish- 
ed from  his  presence  forever.  Their  answer  has  gen- 
erally been,  “ But  how  will  God  get  us  up  to  him  in 
the  sk^?  Will  he  let  down  a long  rope  for  us? 
What  shall  we  live  upon  there?  is  there  plenty  of 
flour  there?  Are  there  earth  and  trees  there?”  He 


88 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


has  endeavored  to  meet  this  difficulty  by  describing 
the  Deity  as  a being  of  infinite  power,  capable  of  do- 
ing any  thing  that  appears  quite  impossible  to  man. 

They  have  but  little  idea  of  a future  state  of  rewards 
and  punishments,  as/ the  result  of  their  conduct  in 
a prior  existence.  They  believe  that  the  spirit,  or 
“ goor  de  mit 77  of  deceased  persons  passes  immedi- 
ately after  death  through  the  bosom  of  the  ocean,  to 
some  unknown  and  distant  land,  which  becomes 
henceforth  their  eternal  residence.  But  in  this  re- 
spect, the  arrival  among  them  of  the  whites  has  led 
to  a total  change  of  creed.  For  they  very  soon  re- 
cognize among  their  new  visitors  many  of  their  de- 
ceased relatives  and  friends — a delusion  which  exists 
to  this  day  as  strong  as  ever.  They  confidently  re- 
cognize several  hundreds  of  the  colonists  by  their  coun- 
tenances, voices  and  former  scars  of  wounds. 

They  are  quite  positive  that  the  reembodied  spirits 
of  Yogan,  who  was  shot  along  with  another,  are  al- 
ready returned  in  the  shape  of  two  soldiers  of  the  21st 
regiment.  The  obstinacy  with  which  they  persist  in 
this  conviction,  that  the  whites  are  all  incarnations 
of  the  spirits  of  some  departed  relations  or  friends,  is 
so  great,  that,  notwithstanding  the  great  confidence 
that  they  usually  place  in  the  interpreter,  he  has 
never  been  able  to  persuade  them  to  the  contrary  ; at 
least  the  old  persons, — but  the  young  ones  begin  to 
have  their  faith  shaken  on  this  point.  The  names 
generally  applied  to  the  whites,  when  speaking 
among  themselves,  is  u diango ,77  or  the  dead. 

They  have  shown  some  curiosity  to  know  what 
sort  of  a place  the  land  of  the  dead  is,  but  not  as 
much  as  might  be  expected.  They  have  asked  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


89 


interpreter  to  sit  down  and  tell  them  the  names  of 
such  of  their  relatives  as  he  saw  there,  and  have  often 
asked  after  particular  individuals,  whether  the  in- 
terpreter knew  him  or  her,  or  whether  he  is  soon  com- 
ing back.  He  has  never  been  asked  whether  the 
state  of  the  dead  was  that  of  happiness  or  misery. 
They  have  often  asked  on  what  the  spirits  live, 
whether  they  have  plenty  of  flour,  whether  the  flour 
brought  by  us  is  dug  out  of  the  earth  there  ? They 
have  seen  wheat  ground  into  meal  in  the  colony,  but 
they  will  not  believe  that  the  settlers  have  the  power 
of  changing  that  brown  mixture  into  the  same  white 
flour  that  the  ships  bring  here.  What  animals,  trees, 
&c.,  there  are  in  that  country  ? Whether  the  country 
was  too  small  for  us,  or  what  other  cause  brought  us 
here ; whether  we  were  not  very  sorry  to  leave  our 
friends  there? 

They  consider  the  Malays,  Lascars,  &c.,  whom 
they  have  seen  here,  to  be,  like  the  whites,  returned 
spirits  of  some  of  their  ancestors  or  friends,  but  who, 
from  some  unaccountable  cause,  have  returned  still 
black,  and  are  regarded  by  them  with  evident  dislike. 
They  attribute  the  change  of  complexion  in  the 
whites  to  their  ghosts  having  passed  through  so  much 
water  on  their  trip  through  the  ocean.  They  consid- 
er each  settler  to  be  a resident  on  the  district  of  that 
tribe  to  which,  in  his  former  state  of  existence,  he  be- 
longed. On  being  asked  how  they  came  to  spear  the 
settlers  if  they  considered  them  as  their  ancestors  or 
friends,  they  have  answered,  that  upon  the  whole, 
they  consider  they  have  treated  the  settlers  well,  for 
that,  if  any  stranger  had  attempted  to  settle  among 
them  in  the  same  way,  they  would  have  done  all 
8* 


90 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


in  their  power  to  destroy  them.  With  respect  to 
the  change  thus  wrought  in  their  views  of  a future 
state,  many  of  them  look  forward  to  death  as  a posi- 
tive gain,  which  will  enable  them  to  come  back  with 
guns,  ammunition  and  provision.  They  firmly  be- 
lieve in  the  existence  of  evil  spirits,  called  by  them 
11  Metagong”  which  prowl  about  at  night  and  catch 
hold  of  them,  if  they  go  away  by  themselves  from 
the  fire  where  the  rest  of  the  party  sleep,  as  to  bring 
water  from  the  well,  &c.,  by  throwing  its  arms  around 
them.  The  interpreter  has  met  with  several,  who 
say  they  have  experienced  it,  but  he  has  never  heard, 
though  he  has  put  many  questions  on  the  subject, 
that  any  injury  has  been  the  consequence.  Yet  they 
certainly  stand  in  great  awe  of  it.  They  represent  it 
to  be  occasionally  visible,  of  human  shape,  of  im- 
mense size  and  of  such  prodigious  strength  as  to  ren- 
der resistance  vain.  The  night-bird  which  the  set- 
tlers call  cuckoo,  and  the  natives  u pogomit”  is  re- 
garded by  the  latter  as  the  cause  of  all  boils  and  erup- 
tions on  their  bodies,  which  they  believe  it  to  produce 
by  piercing  them  with  its  beak  in  the  night  time, 
while  they  are  asleep.  The  li  waugal  ” is  an  aquatic 
monster,  whose  haunt  is  in  deep  waters.  They  de- 
scribe it  as  having  very  long  arms,  long  teeth  and 
large  eyes,  and  assert  it  to  have  destroyed  many  lives. 
They  give  a confused  account  of  its  shape,  but  from 
what  they  have  said  to  the  interpreter,  their  concep- 
tion appears  to  be  of  a creature  like  an  immense  alli- 
gator. It  inhabits  deep  waters,  salt  or  fresh,  and 
almost  every  lake  or  pool  is  haunted  by  one  or  more 
of  such  monsters.  It  is  quite  certain  that  they  do  not 
mean  the  shark,  for  which  they  have  a different  name, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


91 


and  of  which  they  have  a superstitious  dread;  and 
besides,  it  is  never  seen  in  the  fresh  water  lakes. 

There  are  certain  round  stones  in  different  parts  of 
the  island  which  they  believe  to  be  eggs  laid  by  the 
u waugal .”  In  passing  such  stones,  they  are  in  the 
habit  of  stopping  and  making  a bed  for  them  of  leaves, 
but  with  what  precise  object,  has  never  been  ascertain^ 
ed.  They  believe  most  sincerely,  that  certain  indi- 
viduals among  them  possess  the  power,  by  magic  or  en- 
chantment,, of  healing  any  sores,  severe  wounds,  pains 
or  diseases;  and  also  of  effecting  at  their  pleasure, 
any  malady  or  distemper,  of  which  rheumatism,  ul- 
cers, and  sores  are  the  most  common.  These  sorcer- 
ers are  further  supposed  to  have  the  power  of  raising 
the  wind,  and  of  conducting  the  thunder  to  strike 
their  enemies.  But  they  do  not  know  whether  this 
is  an  acquired  faculty,  or  natural  endowment.  The 
ceremonies  used  by  the  sorcerers  in  exerting  their 
magic  powers,  are  blowing,  snorting,  making  hideous 
grimaces,  and  loud  ejaculations.  Allied  to  this  magic 
power  is  another,  which  they  attribute  to  some  among 
them,  whom  they  think  has  the  power  to  doom,  or 
devote  others  to  a sudden  death.  This  is  believed  to 
be  inflicted  by  the  person  having  the  power  of  doom, 
creeping  on  his  victims  like  a snake,  and  pressing  the 
victim’s  throat  between  his  two  thumbs  and  fingers  : 
the  death  may  not  be  for  some  time,  but  the  spell  has 
not  the  less  deaclly  effect.  They  have  several  minor 
superstitions,  viz.,  that  a fire  must  not  be  lighted  at 
night,  or  stirred  with  a crooked  stick,  or  otherwise 
some  young  child  will  surely  die;  to  burn  the  blood  of 
a wounded  person,  makes  the  sufferer  worse  and  en- 
dangers others.  The  mungite , or  flo  wer  of  the  honey 


92 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


suckle,  must  not  be  eaten  too  soon  in  the  season,  or 
bad  weather  will  surely  follow.  The  relatives  of  a 
deceased  person  will  not  sleep  on  the  spot  where  his 
blood  was  shed  for  months  afterwards,  nor  until  a 
victim  has  been  sacrificed  to  appease  his  shade  ; and 
the  same  avenging  ceremony  takes  place  in  all  cases, 
whether  the  deceased  died  a natural  death  or  not. 
They  pretend,  however,  to  say  that  this  intimation  to 
the  deceased  of  having  been  avenged  must  be  thrown 
away,  according  to  another  of  their  superstitions  al- 
ready mentioned,  by  which  he  must  be  on  his  passage 
through  or  across  the  ocean.  In  one  case,  in  which 
the  body  of  a deceased  European  was  opened  at 
Pearth  by  his  medical  attendants,  and  as  bad  weather 
immediately  came  on,  the  change  was  confidently  at- 
tributed to  that  operation ; and  they  continued  to 
speak  in  terms  of  great  horror  at  such  treatment  of 
the  dead. 

There  are  certain  hills,  which  they  consider  un- 
lucky to  pass  over,  and  all  that  pass  over  them  will 
surely  die.  They  have  some  wild  and  fabulous  tra- 
ditions of  their  own  origin.  They  believe  their  earli- 
est progenitors  to  have  sprung  from  Emus,  or  been 
brought  to  this  country  upon  the  back  of  crows,  but 
from  where,  the  legend  does  not  add.  It  is  invaria- 
bly believed  that  their  women  conceive  in  conse- 
quence of  the  infant  being  conveyed  by  some  un- 
known agency  into  the  womb  of  the  mother  from 
somewhere  across  the  sea.  When  a person  is  asleep 
or  in  a deep  slumber  the  interpreter  has  heard  them 
say  of  him,  “now  he  is  away  over  the  water,”  mean- 
ing as  he  has  collected  from  them,  that  the  spirit  or 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


93 


mind  which  had  come  here  an  infant,  had  gone  back 
to  its  own  country. 

A tradition  is  also  current  among  them  that  the 
whole  native  population  of  this  country  in  distant 
ages,  was  confined  to  the  mountains ; that  the  differ- 
ent tribes  now  occupying  the  plain  between  the 
mountain  and  the  sea,  are  the  descendants  of  a very 
few  families,  who  migrated  into  the  country’s  plain 
at  a comparatively  late  period-  but  when  asked  if 
any  rumor  had  been  handed  to  them  of  their  plain 
having  been  covered  with  the  sea  before  that  migra- 
tion, they  have  laughed  at  it. 

They  assert,  too,  that  the  language  of  the  mountain 
tribes,  which  now  differs  considerably  from  that  of 
the  tribes  of  the  plain,  was  at  one  time  their  univer- 
sal language,  and  that  their  own  dialect  is  derived 
from  the  former.  It  is  a remarkable  fact  that  the 
mountain  dialect  is  still  invariably  preferred  and  used 
for  all  purposes  of  a public  nature  or  general  interest, 
— such  as  their  formal  public  worship  or  discussions, 
chanted  narratives  of  battles  and  hunting  matches. 

It  is  a known  fact  that  there  is  no  trace  of  civil 
government  among  those  with  whom  the  settlers 
have  come  in  contact.  There  is  no  supreme  authori- 
ty in  peace  or  war,  vested  either  in  any  individual  as 
a chief  or  any  body  of  individuals.  A family  is  the 
largest  association  that  appears  to  be  actuated  by 
common  motives  or  interest.  They  recognize  the 
right  of  property  among  them,  both  as  to  land  and  as 
to  their  movable  effects : but  they  are  by  no  means 
scrupulous  in  appropriating  to  their  own  use,  any  lost 
property  which  they  happen  to  find.  In  such  cases 
they  make  no  inquiry  about  the  owners,  but  take 


94 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


some  pains  to  conceal  what  they  have  found.  The 
only  mode  of  enforcing  their  proprietary  rights  in 
cases  of  trespass  by  hunting  or  theft,  is  an  appeal  to 
arms ; in  such  cases  however  the  thief  stands  on  an 
equal  footing,  and  is  not  bound  to  give  the  aggrieved 
any  advantage  as  in  certain  other  cases. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Murder  of  Rev.  John  Williams — Sydney — New  South  Wales — 
Embarkation — Gale — Dangers  of  Southern  Latitudes. 

“ Muttering,  the  winds  at  eve,  with  blunted  point, 

Blow  hollow-blustering  from  the  south.  Subdued, 

The  frost  resolves  into  a trickling  thaw. 

Those  sullen  seas, 

That  wash  th’  ungenial  pole,  will  rest  no  more 

Beneath  the  shackles  of  the  mighty  south  3 

111  fares  the  bark  with  trembling  wretches  charged, 

That  tossed  amid  the  floating  fragments,  moors 
Beneath  the  shelter  of  an  icy  isle, 

While  night  o’erwhelms  the  sea,  and  horror  looks 
More  horrible. 

The  roar  of  winds  and  waves,  the  crush  of  ice, 

Wow  ceasing,  now  renewed  with  louder  rage, 

And  in  dire  echoes  bellowing  round  the  main.” 

Thomson. 

December  2d,  the  Missionary  Brig  Campden  ar- 
rived, bringing  intelligence  of  a melancholy  occur- 
rence which  took  place  last  month  at  Eramanga,  one 
of  the  New  Hebride  Islands ; and  in  which  the  Rever- 
end John  Williams,  who  resided  here  a short  time 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


95 


since,  and  a Mr.  Harris,  lost  their  lives.  The  follow- 
ing account  is  given  by  the  English  vice  consul  for 
the  Samoa  Islands,  Mr.  Cunningham,  who  was  pas- 
senger on  board  the  Campden,  and  narrowly  escaped, 
by  running  for  his  life  to  the  boat. 

On  the  19th  of  last  month,  we  had  communica- 
tion with  the  natives  of  Tanna,  one  of  the  New  Heb-' 
ride  Islands.  Finding  the  natives  willing  to  receive 
instruction  from  our  teachers,  we  proceeded  to  the 
Island  of  Eramanga,  expecting  to  find  a similar  re- 
ception, but  the  result  has  fatally  proved  the  reverse. 
We  intended  making  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  island, 
but  it  was  late  in  the  evening  before  we  came  up 
with  Dillon’s  Bay.  We  therefore  rounded  to  for  the 
night,  and  in  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  a lit- 
tle to  the  windward  of  Dillon’s  Bay.  It  was  the 
only  apparent  place  on  the  island  where  a landing 
could  be  effected,  the  whole  of  which  island  is  with 
this  one  exception,  a complete  iron-bound  coast,  with- 
out the  least  appearance  of  culture.  The  natives  are 
a barbarous  race  of  beings,  approaching  to  the  Afri- 
can negro : they  are  also  a different  race,  but  the  hair, 
although  curly,  is  not  of  that  wooly  description  which 
the  African  negroes  have,  being  long  and  straight. 
They  are  a dirty  race  of  savages. 

Wednesday  morning,  November  30th,  we  sent  the 
ship’s  boat  ashore,  containing  Mr.  Williams,  Mission- 
ary; Mr.  Cunningham,  H.  B.  M.  Vice  Consul:  Cap- 
tain Morgan  and  Mr.  Harris,  who  joined  the  Camp- 
den at  Otaheite  for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  to  this 
port,  to  take  his  passage  for  England,  with  a view  of 
arranging  his  affairs  there  previous  to  his  return  to 
the  Marquesas,  as  a missionary.  As  the  boat  ap- 


96 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


proached  the  beach,  we  could  distinctly  see  that  the 
natives  were  averse  to  holding  any  communication 
with  us  on  friendly  terms.  Mr.  Williams  made  them 
presents  of  knives,  scissors  and  some  trinkets,  for  the 
purpose  of  gaining  their  esteem,  but  without  effect. 
Mr.  Williams  now  proposed  giving  up  the  idea  of 
having  any  intercourse  with  them,  and  had  made  up 
his  mind  to  proceed  to  some  other  island,  where  his 
services  might  be  required.  Mr.  Harris  then  asked 
permission  to  leave  the  boat,  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
ceeding among  the  natives.  Mr.  Harris  was  followed 
by  Mr.  Williams;  and  when  Mr.  Cunningham  had 
reached  the  summit  of  the  beach,  he  perceived  Mr. 
Harris  running  down  towards  the  boat,  followed  by 
a party  of  natives  armed  with  clubs,  spears,  bows 
and  arrows.  Mr.  Harris  fell  the  first  victim,  for  as 
soon  as  one  knocked  him  down,  the  remainder  spear- 
ed him  through.  Mr.  Cunningham  saw  him  running, 
he  turned  and  made  for  the  boat,  and  called  to  Mr. 
Williams  to  run,  for  the  natives  had  killed  Mr.  Har- 
ris; Mr.  Williams  unfortunately  stopped  to  look  a 
moment  for  Mr.  Harris ; he  made  afterwards  for  the 
boat  and  reached  the  water, — the  boat  laying  off  to 
keep  her  afloat ; but  in  the  hurry  he  stumbled  and 
fell,  when  the  natives  immediately  took  advantage  of 
this  circumstance  and  struck  him  four  blows  on  the 
head  with  their  club.  By  this  time  Captain  Morgan 
and  Mr.  Cunningham  having  gained  the  boat  and 
pushed  off,  after  Mr.  Williams  had  fallen;  another 
party  of  natives,  numbering  about  sixteen  or  seven- 
teen, speared  him  through,  although  our  informant 
thinks  he  was  dead  when  they  arrived.  The  chil- 
dren threw  missiles  and  stones  at  the  corpse.  Neither 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


97 


of  the  bodies  could  be  procured,  though  attempted. 
They  made  an  attempt  and  were  attacked  by  the  na- 
tives, and  part  of  one  of  their  arrows  is  now  to  be 
seen,  stuck  fast  in  the  boat  of  the  Campden.  Cap- 
tain Morgan  intended  beating  the  vessel  up  to  wind* 
ward,  and  under  the  cover  of  her  guns  to  attempt  the 
rescue  of  the  bodies ; but  on  approaching  the  beachK 
found  the  natives  had  carried  off  Mr.  Harris,  and  Mr. 
Williams’s  body  they  saw  nothing  of.  Captain  Mor- 
gan finding  all  attempts  to  rescue  the  bodies  useless,, 
immediately  bore  away  for  Sydney,  direct.  Had  the 
party  in  the  boat  been  possessed  of  a single  musket, 
the  life  of  the  Reverend  Mr.  Williams  would  doubt- 
less have  been  saved,  as  he  was  followed  to  the  beach 
by  one  native  only. 

Sydney,  New  South  Wrales,  Dec.  4th.  Since  our 
arrival  we  have  had  almost  daily  visits  from  our  con- 
sul, who  is  very  attentive  to  us,  in  affording  every  fa- 
cility in  his  power  towards  our  outfits  for  the  contem- 
plated arduous  antarctic  cruise.  We  have  been  visit- 
ed by  several  Englishmen,  both  naval  and  military, 
besides  the  civil  authorities.  Governor  Gipps  kindly 
tendered  to  Capt.  Whlkes  the  use  of  the  Fort  for  his 
scientific  instruments,  and  in  which  he  had  the  ob- 
servatory established.  Almost  every  evening  a party 
was  given  to  our  officers  on  shore  by  the  officers  here, 
or  our  officers  gave  a party  to  them.  Capt.  Wilkes 
gave  a dinner  party  at  the  Fort,  to  which  his  Excel- 
lency, Governor  Gipps,  and  the  principal  officers  of 
the  colony  were  invited  guests : also,  all  the  English 
naval  and  military  officers  on  the  station  were  pres- 
ent. 

As  soon  as  I found  it  convenient  after  our  arrival 
9 


98 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


there,  I visited  the  shore  and  had  a ramble  among 
some  of  the  principal  streets.  The  first  thing  that 
struck  my  attention  on  landing,  was  a thick-lipped  ne- 
gro man,  black  as  charcoal,  walking  arm  in  arm  with 
a beautiful  young  white  woman  of  about  sixteen.  I 
had  often  before  heard  of  this  custom  of  amalgamation 
among  the  English  damsels,  hut  never  before  saw 
such  an  unusual  sight.  There  was  something  in  it 
which  to  me  appeared  so  unnatural,  that  I could  not 
resist  the  temptation  of  stopping  in  the  middle  of  the 
street  to  gaze  on  the  sight.  I had  not  proceeded  far 
before  I found  this  scene  to  be  no  novelty,  for  many 
similar  ones  presented  themselves. 

The  next  thing  in  which  I was  particularly  inter- 
ested was  the  convicts,  who  were  seen  in  every  direc- 
tion, some  with  shackles  on  the  legs, — some  with  a 
ball  and  chain  dragging  after  them, — others  chained 
together,  two  and  two,  and  again  at  a little  distance 
were  seen  four  or  five  together,  escorted  by  a guard  of 
soldiers.  All  the  public  work  here  is  done  by  them, 
as  among  them  mechanics  of  all  kinds  may  be  found. 
Government  is  compelled  to  keep  one  or  two  regiments 
here,  and  a strong  mounted  police,  to  keep  the  con- 
victs in  subjection.  Many  of  the  convicts  on  their  ar- 
rival are  allotted  to  different  settlers,  for  whom  they 
work  during  the  term  of  their  transportation,  or  until 
the  sentence  is  mitigated,  which  very  often  happens 
after  serving  faithfully  half  of  their  time.  A ticket  of 
leave  is  then  granted  to  them,  which  allows  them  to 
work  for  themselves  during  the  balance  of  their  time, 
hut  they  have  to  report  themselves  once  every  week 
to  the  Governor,  or  some  person  appointed  to  superin- 
tend the  convicts.  If  any  new  crime  of  importance  is 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


99 


committed  by  them,  they  are  sent  to  Norfolk  Island, 
where  they  have  to  work  in  chains,  without  any 
chance  of  commutation. 

Others,  again,  retire  to  the  bushes,  and  murder,  roh 
and  steal,  all  that  comes  within  their  reach.  They 
are  then  denominated  “bushrangers,  or  highway- 
men ; ” hence  they  are  accounted  outlaws,  and  may 
be  shot  wherever  they  are  found.  Fourteen  of  these 
“desperadoes”  have  been  convicted  and  hanged. 
Some  few  of  the  convicts  become  good  citizens, — 
very  wealthy ; one  died  a short  time  since,  whose  es- 
tate was  valued  at  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  ster- 
ling. I met  with  several  New  Hollanders,  who  are 
the  ugliest  and  the  most  deformed  of  any  human 
beings  I ever  saw. 

Sir  George  Gipps  is  the  present  Governor,  and  Sir 
Maurice  O’Conner  commander  of  the  forces. 

Dec.  25th.  This  was  quite  a dull  Christmas  with 
us,  in  respect  to  amusements;  but  with  regard  to 
work,  there  was  plenty — for  we  were  busily  engaged 
in  preparing  the  ship  for  sea,  and  hourly  expected  to 
sail. 

What  a contrast  was  my  present  situation  to  what 
I fancied  was  that  of  my  friends  at  home,  sitting 
round  their  cheerful  fires,  enjoying,  as  I confidently 
and  sincerely  hoped,  the  blessings  of  health  and  hap- 
piness ! 

Our  voyage  was  commenced  under  favorable  aus- 
pices, but  we  had  not  been  out  long  when  the  sudden 
fall  of  the  barometer,  and  the  fluctuations  of  the  ther- 
mometer, indicated  a change — a gale.  In  this  we 
were  not  deceived,  as  the  sequel  plainly,  but  sadly 
revealed  to  us.  It  came  on  squally  at  10  o’clock, 


100 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


and  continued  to  blow  at  intervals  with  great  violence. 
All  hands  were  called,  and  the  topsails  close-reefed, 
and  every  thing  made  ready  to  meet  the  fury  of  the 
coming  storm.  In  the  evening  the  gale  increased  so 
much  that  we  hove  the  ship  to.  and  sent  down  top- 
gallant and  royal-yards.  At  10,  P.  M.,  a thick  fog 
set  in,  and  continued  through  the  night.  During  this 
time  we  parted  company  with  the  Peacock,  and  schr. 
Flying  Fish.  On  the  6th  of  Jan.,  we  had  advanced  as 
far  south  as  53  deg.  S.  latitude.  A number  of  whales 
were  seen,  and  some  “kelp  birds”  were  our  constant 
companions,  and  the  only  new  object  which  served  to 
beguile  the  tediousness  of  our  hours.  We  amused 
ourselves  sometimes  by  catching  them  with  a book  and 
line;  we  found  the  plumage  of  these  thirds  extremely 
rich  and  delicate.  We  perceived  the  weather  to  grow 
cool  very  rapidly  as  we  advanced  south  ; but  this  is 
somewhat  compensated  for  by  our  increase  of  day- 
light. We  have  fifteen  hours  day  out  of  the  twenty- 
four,  and  the  balance  of  the  time  is  light  enough  to 
see  to  read  on  the  spar-deck. 

Last  night  I witnessed  to  the  southward  a brilliant 
display  of  the  Aurora  Australis.  It  afforded  a variety 
of  light  and  colors,  seldom  surpassed  in  any  exhibition 
of  fireworks.  I could  but  gaze  with  intense  delight, 
while  my  thoughts  were  absorbed  in  contemplating 
the  wonderful  works  of  nature.  The  “ Aurora  Borea- 
lis,” in  point  of  brilliancy  and  interest,  cannot  com- 
pare with  this.  The  whole  southern  horizon,  the 
broad  extent,  reaching  as  far  as  the  zenith,  was  beaming 
with  vivid  magnificence, — as  when  the  first  tints  of 
morn  burst  from  the  east ; ever  changing,  from  mod- 
est hues  to  deeper  vividness,  and  from  twinklings  to 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


101 


the  dazzling  blaze  of  far-reaching  splendor  and  sub- 
limity. Arch  crowded  on  arch,  wave  succeeded 
wave,  blaze  shot  across  wave  like  lightning’s  fitful 
glare — figure  blended  with  figure— and  anon  the 
pointed  shaft — arrow  like — peered  above  the  horizon, 
extending  far  up  the  illumined  concave,  as  if  some 
mighty  volcano  had  belched  forth,  from  her  fiery  bow- 
els, a blazing  herald,  sent  on  a message  of  death.  Now 
the  wide  expanse,  from  the  zenith  to  horizon,  glowed 
with  an  almost  unearthly  flame,  as  if  about  to  “melt 
with  fervent  heat,” — and  now  it  slowly  subsides,  like 
the  half  extinguished  taper,  and  all  is  as  placid  as  a 
summer  evening’s  twilight. 

As  we  proceeded  south,  from  latitude  60  deg.  we  saw 
but  little  of  comparative  interest.  The  first  iceberg 
that  we  discovered,  was  after  leaving  that  parallel. 
It  was  flat  on  the  top,  having  the  appearance  of  hav- 
ing been  hewn  off.  Whales  were  quite  abundant  in 
this  latitude,  and  large  numbers  of  seals  surrounded 
us,  apparently  on  their  way  farther  south.  The  tem- 
perature was  rapidly  changing,  and  the  weather  be- 
coming more  and  more  disagreeable.  Storms  were 
becoming  more  and  more  frequent  and  severe.  At  10 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  Jan.  10th,  we  were  surrounded  by  ice- 
bergs, which  rendered  it  impossible  to  pursue  our  reg- 
ular course,  but  were  obliged  to  change  to  avoid  these 
immense  floating  islands.  A thick  gloom  had  appa- 
rently settled  upon  every  thing  around.  The  weather 
was  fast  becoming  cold  and  severe.  Fires  were  kept 
burning  in  various  parts  of  the  ship,  to  render  it  as 
comfortable  as  possible.  The  water  had  now  assumed 
a dark  pea-green  color,  and  icebergs  were  seen  in 
every  direction,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  On 
9# 


102 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


the  12th,  we  were  obliged  to  heave  to,  in  consequence 
of  having  run  into  a bay  of  ice,  which,  apparently  was 
about  to  prevent  our  farther  progress  south.  Yet  in 
all  of  this  desolation,  we  were  attended  by  animate 
creation.  Sperm  whales  were  sporting  around  us, 
now  presenting  their  huge  bodies  at  the  surface  of  the 
water,  heaving  and  raging,  and  sending  far  upward 
its  icy  spray,  and  now  plunging  down  into  ocean’s 
depths,  far  from  the  wandering  gaze  of  man.  How 
illustrative  of  the  power  and  goodness  of  Him.  whose 
dominion  is  from  sea  to  sea,  and  from  the  rivers  to 
the  ends  of  the  earth,”  to  adapt  the  constitution  of 
every  living,  sentient  being,  not  only  to  the  element 
in  which  it  is  to  exist,  but  to  all  of  the  varieties  of  cli- 
mate, from  pole  to  pole  ! 

We  lost  sight,  in  latitude  64  deg.,  of  the  Porpoise, 
while  surrounded  by  a thick  fog.  The  weather  was 
cold  and  disagreeable  in  the  extreme.  Wore  ship  and 
stood  to  the  westward  in  order  to  find  an  opening  into 
the  sea.  Here  we  saw  large  flocks  of  penguins  upon 
the  ice,  with  a number  of  cape  pigeons,  and  some 
large  white  albatrosses,  resembling  those  seen  off  Cape 
Horn.  Hot  coffee  was  made  every  night  during  this 
cold  weather,  and  served  to  the  men  when  going  on 
deck,  and  also  the  watch  when  coming  below. 

We  continued  working  to  the  windward,  urging 
our  course  with  much  difficulty.  Large  pieces  of  fu- 
cus  were  floating  in  every  direction,  in  this  vicinity. 
On  the  16th,  we  saw  at  a distance  the  Peacock.  She 
seemed  to  be  employed  in  the  ice,  and  to  appearance, 
had  suffered  much.  The  water  all  this  day  was  of 
an  unusual  dirty  green.  Hundreds  of  icebergs  were 
in  every  direction,  some  two,  and  even  three  hundred 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


103 


feet  in  height,  with  conical  forms,  and  others  with 
perpendicular  sides  and  flat  tops,  as  smooth  as  glass. 
Many  had  the  most  beautiful  arches  I ever  beheld,  or 
fancy  could  devise,  formed  by  the  washing  of  the 
waves.  We  were  now  in  65  deg.  26  min.  south  lon- 
gitude, 157  deg.  43  min.  east.  The  sea  during  this 
day  was  enlivened  by  animalcules,  but  owing  to  a 
heavy  swell,  none  could  be  procured,  though  attempt- 
ed by  our  scientific  gentlemen. 

January  17th.  The  loom  of  land  was  plain  in  the 
horizon.  The  water  had  a dirty  green  color,  but 
much  clearer  than  yesterday.  Thousands  of  birds, 
seals  and  whales,  were  all  around  us.  Among  the 
feathered  tribe,  I noticed  the  “Mother  Cary’s  chicken,” 
and  many  cape  pigeons. 

18th.  Every  indication  of  land.  We  observed 
last  night  that  all  the  birds,  penguins  and  seals,  went 
due  south,  and  the  first  that  were  seen  this  morning 
were  coming  from  that  direction,  and  standing  north. 
I saw  to-day  some  very  large  sperm  whales.  They 
were  so  large,  and  covered  with  so  many  barnacles, 
that  they  looked  like  huge  rocks,  when  coming  up  to 
blow.  The  weather  was  extremely  cold ; good  fires 
were  kept  constantly  in  the  stoves,  one  on  the  quarter 
deck,  the  other  forward  of  the  fore  hatch ; and  also 
fire  was  kept  in  the  galley  range,  below,  and  the 
berth-deck,  where  the  men  dried  their  clothes.  Hot 
coffee  and  toddy  were  served  to  each  watch  when 
going  on  deck,  and  those  “ turning  in.”  Extra  warm 
clothing  was  served  out  to  the  men — the  hammocks  re- 
mained below  in  their  berths  for  several  days  for  the 
men  to  rest  themselves.  The  water,  a light  pea  green, 
and  filled  with  animalcules,  and  a species  of  fucus  of 


104 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


an  enormous  length.  At  12  o’clock,  our  latitude  by 
observation,  was  55  deg.  45  min.  62  sec.  S.,  longitude, 
156  deg.  67  min.  28  sec.  E. 

19th.  This  morning  at  6 o’clock,  land  was  report- 
ed from  the  mast-head,  and  at  8 it  was  plainly  visible 
from  the  deck,  stretching  from  the  south  and  east  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  extend,  with  a towering  top  some 
two  and  three  thousand  feet  on  a level.  Here  we 
had  got  fairly  into  the  rookery  of  penguins,  albatros- 
ses and  seals.  The  water  a dark  green  color — it  was 
also  full  of  small  animalcules.  The  Peacock  was 
seen  to-day  to  the  south  of  us.  We  continued  to 
stand  toward  the  land  until  the  afternoon,  when  we 
came  rudely  against  an  impenetrable  barrier  of  ice, 
preventing  our  nearer  approach  to  it.  Our  latitude  at 
noon,  to-day,  was  66  deg.  20  min.  south,  and  long. 
154  deg.  27  min.  45  sec.  east.  Stood  to  the  eastward 
in  order  to  find  a more  eligible  place  to  land. 

20th.  Strong  winds  and  cold  weather.  Thermom- 
eter between  decks,  from  28  to  34  degrees.  Land  in 
sight.  All  attempts  to  approach  nearer  to  it,  proved 
fruitless.  This  day  penguins  in  abundance,  and 
whales  seen  in  all  directions.  Land  was  still  in  sight 
all  day,  and  we  were  anxiously  looking  for  an  en- 
trance into  it.  At  12  o’clock  we  were  in  lat.  66  deg. 
07  min.  S.,  long.  151  deg.  26  min.  30  sec.  E.  The 
weather  extremely  cold.  Thermometer  between 
decks  23  degrees. 

22d.  During  this  day  we  have  fallen  in  with  a 
number  of  icebergs  of  an  enormous  size.  A large 
number  of  penguins  were  captured  upon  the  ice.  I 
opened  one,  and  found  in  his  stomach  twenty-two  pie- 
ces quartz  and  granite,  with  a quantity  of  crustacia, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


105 


among  which  were  the  Hexacherus.  At  12  o’clock 
our  latitude  was  66  deg.  12  min.  26  sec.  S.,  longitude 
149  deg.  44  min.  E.  We  tried  at  several  places  to 
effect  a landing  or  entrance,  but  all  to  no  purpose ; an 
impenetrable  barrier  defied  all  our  efforts. 

From  22d  Jan.  to  the  25th,  we  were  seeking  an 
entrance  to  the  land,  but  without  success.  This, 
morning,  25th,  we  entered  a deep  bay  formed  by  ice. 
Here  we  examined  every  point,  in  the  hope  of  finding 
an  entrance  to  the  land,  but  without  success.  We 
hauled  the  ship  alongside  of  an  iceberg,  passed  a 
hawser  round  it,  so  that  we  could  hoist  it  on  board, 
and  in  consequence  of  the  calm  weather,  succeeded  in 
filling  all  of  our  water  tanks  with  ice.  On  a level  ice- 
burg  near,  the  captain  took  a number  of  scientific  in- 
struments, and  the  dipping  needle.  It  gave  87  deg. 
30  min.  for  the  dip.  The  compasses  became  useless 
in  this  bay.  They  all  pointed  differently,  and  none 
were  correct.  The  captain  placed  abaft  the  compass, 
Burlow’s  Plate,  to  remedy  the  evil,  but  it  was  all  to 
no  purpose,  they  would  not  work.  They  were  then 
placed  in  different  parts  of  the  ship,  but  it  was  all  the 
same.  I observed  a number  of  Madns  to-day,  and 
one  was  caught  of  a deep  brown  color,  in  which  I 
found  a live  hyperia. 

There  were  innumerable  small  crustacia  moving 
around  the  sides  of  the  ice  island,  but  they  swam  so 
deep  that  we  could  catch  none  of  them.  At  12  o’clock 
to-day,  the  lat.  was  67  deg.  04  min.  S.,  long.  147  deg. 
30  min.  E.  This  bay,  Capt.  Wilkes  called  ^Disap- 
pointment Bay,”  as  all  attempts  hitherto  had  been 
abortive : and  this  one  seemed  to  put  an  end  to  all 
future  hope  of  progressing  further  south. 


106 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


27th.  This  day  we  fell  in  with  the  Porpoise.  She 
had  come  near  being  imbedded  in  ice,  and  suffered 
considerably  in  working  her  way  out.  After  finding 
all  wdl  on  board,  she  made  sail  and  stood  on  the 
other  tack.  The  weather  was  extremely  cold  and 
disagreeable.  Good  fires  were  kept  day  and  night  in 
both  stoves  on  the  gun  deck,  and  in  the  galley  range, 
on  the  berth  deck.  Since  our  entrance  among  the  ice, 
and  in  the  bad  weather,  all  hands  were  mustered  at 
quarters,  morning  and  evening,  ajid  the  state  of  their 
clothing  examined  by  the  divisional  officers,  and  re- 
ported to  Capt.  Wilkes.  Every  precaution  was  taken 
that  could  be  thought  of,  or  suggested,  by  Capt. 
Wilkes,  to  render  the  situation  of  the  men  as  agreea- 
ble as  possible,  and  prevent  sickness.  An  abundance 
of  good  provisions,  sour  krout,  dried  apples,  cranber- 
ries, and  other  anti-scorbutics  were  served  out ; be- 
sides, we  had  eighteen  months  provisions  on  board. 
At  12  o’clock,  latitude  by  observation  64  deg.  54  min. 
21  sec.  S.,  longitude  142  deg.  50  min.  08  sec.  E. 

28th.  At  5 A.  M.,  we  discovered  high  land  to  the 
south,  covered  with  snow.  At  noon  the  land  was 
seen  extending  from  S.  E.  by  E.,  to  W.  S.  W.  At  9, 
sounded  and  found  bottom  in  thirty  fathoms  waler; 
coarse  black  sand  came  up  on  the  drawing  of  the  lead. 
This  was  a tolerable  good  bay,  but  a gale  was  setting 
in,  and  the  ice  to  windward  closing  upon  us  just  as 
we  were  getting  ready  to  anchor.  To  the  leeward  of 
us,  and  forming  a side  to  this  bay,  was  a long  ledge 
of  rocks,  at  the  distance  of  miles  from  us,  with  a 
strong  appearance  of  volcanic  smoke  to  the  south.  At 
12  M.,  our  latitude  was  66  deg.  32  min.  43  sec.  S., 
longitude  140  deg.  24  min.  43  sec.  E.  We  were  com- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


107 


pelled  to  retrace  our  course  by  the  way  we  came,  in 
consequence  of  the  sudden  setting  in  of  the  gale ; and 
before  we  had  passed  it,  it  set  in  so  thick  that  we 
could  not  see  five  hundred  yards  ahead,  with  rain, 
hail  and  snow.  This  was  the  thirteenth  time  that 
we  attempted  to  effect  a landing,  but  without  success, 
and  in  an  hour  from  the  time  we  left  it,  the  wind  had. 
increased  to  a violent  gale.  From  our  perilous  situa- 
tion we  were  compelled  to  keep  all  hands  upon  deck 
all  nighfr,  the  ship  passing  through  a very  narrow  pas- 
sage with  a tremendous  heavy  sea  running,  which 
caused  her  to  roll  so  deep  that  she  was  near  being  on 
her  beam  ends  several  times.  The  decks  were  cov- 
ered with  ice  and  sleet,  which  rendered  walking  diffi- 
cult, and  even  dangerous.  Several  men  were  thrown 
from  the  weather  side  to  the  leeward.  Mr.  William- 
son, gunner,  was  seriously  injured,  having  three  of 
his  ribs  broken.  The  men  who  were  on  the  main- 
topsail  yard  became  so  benumbed  with  cold,  that  they 
could  not  get  off  the  yard,  and  had  to  be  slung  and 
sent  down  from  aloft.  The  barometer  stood  at  28,70, 
and  a more  furious  gale  I never  experienced  in  any 
part  of  the  world  ; the  sea  washing  against  the  sides 
of  the  icebergs,  and  the  dashing  of  the  waves  in  arch- 
es, made  a noise  like  distant  cannon. 

29th.  All  this  day  a gale  and  a dreadful  sea.  At 
12  o’clock,  latitude  65  deg.  28  min.  S.,  longitude  140 
deg.  45  min.  E.  Land  at  a distance,  nothing  but  ice  ! 
ice!!  ice!!! 

30th.  This  day  the  gale  abated  and  we  made  sail 
and  stood  for  the  land,  it  being  in  sight.  We  tried  to 
return  by  the  same  rout,  to  regain  the  bay  which  we 
were  in  on  the  28th,  but  did  not  succeed,  as  we  fell 


108 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


several  miles  westward.  We  approached  near  enough 
to  get  soundings  in  forty  fathoms.  In  winding  our 
way  back,  we  saw  what  indescribable  dangers  we 
had  passed  through  during  the  gale. 

31st.  All  this  day  coasting  along  the  barrier,  look- 
ing for  an  entrance  through  it  to  the  land. 

I have  been  thus  minute,  and  perhaps  tedious,  in 
giving  the  reader  some  idea, — though  vague  it  must 
necessarily  be.  of  our  peculiar  situation,  while  tossed 
and  driven  among  the  icebergs  of  that  desolate  and 
unexplored  field  of  gloom  and  exposure.  None  but 
those  present  on  that  eventful  Expedition,  can  have 
any  adequate  conception  of  the  dreariness  of  the 
scenery.  It  might  be  called  with  comparative  pro- 
priety, a “ waste  of  waters,55  a term  usually  applied 
improperly  to  the  ocean,  in  all  its  sublimit)?-  and 
grandeur. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


109 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Attempts  to  Land  continued — Reflections — Return  to  the  North. 


u Meanwhile  the  mountain-billows,  to  the  clouds 
In  dreadful  tumult  swelled,  surge  above  surge 
Burst  into  chaos  with  tremendous  roar, 

And  anchored  navies  from  their  station  drive, 

Wild  as  the  winds  across  the  howling  waste 
Of  mighty  waters  : now  th7  inflated  wave 
Straining  the  scale,  and  now  impetuous  shoot 
Into  the  secret  chambers  of  the  deep.” 

Thomson. 

February  1st.  We  again  stood  in  for  the  land; 
having  seen  it  so  often  in  different  situations  and  ap- 
proached it  so  near,  Captain  Wilkes  named  it  the 
“ Antarctic  Continent.”  We  saw  again  a number  of 
Mother  Cary’s  chickens,  appearing  to  be  as  regardless 
of  the  climate  here  as  if  they  were  in  the  tropics. 
We  observed  to-day  a school  of  porpoises  singularly 
marked,  having  a faint  yellow  band  over  the  nose, 
crossing  the  jaws  and  running  under  the  neck;  a 
second  band  crossing  the  dorsal  fin,  and  ending  by 
running  parallel  with  the  tail.  They  appeared  very 
rapid  in  their  movements  through  the  water,  much 
swifter  than  our  common  porpoise.  Means  were 
used  to  capture  one,  but  they  were  unsuccessful. 

We  again  made  the  land  about  sixty  miles  to  the 
westward  of  the  point  first  visited.  Here  we  found 
the  coast  thickly  defended  with  large  cliffs  of  ice, 
forming  the  most  singular  looking  barrier  that  we 
10 


110 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


had  seen,  which  prevented  us  from  reaching  the  land 
in  any  way.  And  at  this  very  point  there  was  a 
tongue  of  land  running  close  to  the  water,  so  low 
that,  to  all  appearances,  one  might  have  stepped  out 
of  the  boat  upon  it.  Our  sick  list  was  daily  increas- 
ing almost  to  an  alarming  extent;  the  number  report- 
ed was  fifteen.  Most  of  these  cases  were  consequent 
upon  the  extreme  hardships  and  exposure  which  the 
men  had  undergone  during  the  late  gales,  when  the 
ship  was  surrounded  with  ice.  In  the  surgeon’s  re- 
port he  says — “ This  number  is  not  large,  but  he  feels 
it  necessary  to  state  that  the  general  health  of  the 
crew  is  in  his  opinion  decidedly  affected ; and  that 
under  ordinary  circumstances  the  list  would  be  very 
much  increased ; while  the  men  under  present  exigen- 
cies, actuated  by  a laudable  desire  to  do  their  duty  to 
the  last,  refrain  from  presenting  themselves  as  appli- 
cants for  the  list.”  And  he  further  says — “ Under 
these  circumstances,  he  feels  it  his  duty  to  state,  that, 
in  his  opinion,  a few  days  more  of  such  exposure  as 
they  have  already  undergone,  would  reduce  the  num- 
ber of  the  crew,  by  sickness,  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
hazard  the  safety  of  the  ship  and  the  lives  of  all  on 
board.” 

February  3d,  latitude  observed  at  12  o’clock,  65 
deg.  1 min.  10  sec.  South,  longitude  135  deg.  42  min. 
30  sec.  East.  We  fished  up  some  live  crustacia, 
among  which  was  a euphansia.  This  day  set  in 
with  a regular  gale  of  wind  from  the  S.  E.,  with 
thick  weather.  Snow,  rain  and  hail  again  forced  us 
to  stand  from  the  land,  often  placing  us  in  dangerous 
positions,  from  the  great  number  of  icebergs,  and 


'X  OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


Ill 


thick  weather.  The  ship  in  this  gale  labored  dread- 
fully ; every  timber  groaned  under  the  pressure  of  the 
storm. 

This  weather  continued  until  the  7th  February, 
when  it  was  clear  enough  to  see  the  land.  We  made 
more  sail  and  stood  for  it,  and  was  soon  up  with  a 
perpendicular  barrier  of  ice,  similar  to  that  which  we 
had  previously  seen  attached  to  land.  The  ice  here 
appeared  to  be  much  thicker,  and  to  extend  to  a great 
distance.  We  could  not  effect  an  entrance,  and  were 
compelled  to  stand  off.  Numerous  large  whales,  seals 
and  penguins  were  in  sight.  The  water  was  much 
discolored.  We  coasted  to  the  westward  about 
seventy  miles,  when  we  were  stopped  by  the  barrier, 
which  trended  to  the  southward.  We  could  not  pene- 
trate any  farther  south  in  consequence  of  a thick 
barrier  of  field  ice.  Here  in  this  critical  place.  Cap- 
tain Wilkes  remained  for  twenty-four  hours  in  ex- 
amining the  various  places  where  there  was  the  least 
sign  of  an  opening,  but  with  no  better  success  than 
before.  So  he  continued  to  coast  to  the  westward, 
beset  on  all  sides  with  huge  icebergs. 

Soon  after,  the  weather  became  more  favorable. 
The  sun  shone  out  quite  brilliantly  for  some  consid- 
erable time.  At  night  we  were  favored  with  a beau- 
tiful display  of  the  Aurora  Australis.  The  Doctor 
was  busily  employed  in  making  observations  with 
the  photometer  on  the  density  of  light.  This  was  one 
of  the  most  sublime  sights  that  I ever  witnessed,  and 
lasted  nearly  the  whole  night. 

We  still  coasted  to  the  westward  in  order  to  find 
an  entrance  through  the  barrier,  to  the  land,  but  did 
not  succeed.  The  weather  was  very  fine  for  the 


112 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


southern  hemisphere,  where  we  had  experienced  so 
much  severity  and  exposure.  We  continued  coasting 
to  the  westward,  close  to  the  barrier,  in  the  hope  of 
finding  a passage  through  it.  In  the  afternoon  of  the 
11th,  we  came  to  a part  of  the  barrier  where  there 
were  immense  islands  of  ice  extending  farther  off, 
and  running  parallel  with  the  land.  A number  of 
whales  were  in  sight  from  the  mast-head,  some  of 
them  of  an  enormous  size.  The  sun  rose  this  morn- 
ing at  a quarter  before  three  o’clock,  and  set  at  half 
past  eight.  During  the  remaining  part  of  the  time 
it  was  so  light  that  we  could  see  to  read  with  consid- 
erable ease. 

We  had  another  sight  of  the  land  on  the  12th,  but 
at  a distance,  with  no  better  prospect  of  success  in 
reaching  it  than  the  first  time  we  saw  it.  Here  the 
barrier  appeared  to  be  seven  or  eight  miles  in  breadth. 

We  again  succeeded  in  reaching  an  opening,  which 
led  us  to  believe  that  we  might  approach  the  land 
nearer  than  we  had  at  any  other  point,  as  it  was  dis- 
tinctly visible,  and  the  shore  appeared  not  more  than 
five  or  six  miles  off;  but  in  this  we  were  soon  stopped 
by  coming  in  contact  with  a quantity  of  drift  ice. 
We  put  about  and  tried  to  effect  a nearer  approach  to 
the  land,  but  did  not  approach  within  fifteen  miles. 
Not  meeting  with  success  we  hauled  off  for  the  night, 
with  no  prospect  of  landing. 

At  8 o’clock,  A.  M.,  on  the  14th,  we  stood  in  for 
the  land,  to  effect  an  entrance  at  another  point  that 
appeared  clearer,  but  without  success.  The  breeze 
was  light  and  we  did  not  reach  the  point  so  much 
desired.  A long  line  of  land  was  in  sight,  extending 
from  south-west  to  north-west. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


113 


We  continued  to  force  our  way  through  the  drift 
ice  trending  to  the  west,  and  a line  of  icebergs  to  the 
leeward,  extending  from  north-west  to  south-east. 
We  made  more  sail,  and  at  ten  o’clock  stood  in  for 
the  land,  through  a passage  just  wide  enough  to  ad- 
mit the  ship.  Captain  Wilkes  continued  to  force  her 
through  the  ice  in  the  hope  of  reaching  the  land.  In 
a short  time,  however,  the  ice  became  so  thick  as  to 
render  it  impossible  to  penetrate  any  farther.  The 
large  pieces  of  ice  began  to  settle  down  on  us  so  fast, 
and  the  passage  became  so  very  narrow,  that  the 
captain  thought  it  prudent  to  put  the  helm  up  and 
make  our  way  through  the  passage.  So  narrow  was 
it  at  this  time  as  almost  to  touch  the  yards  of  the 
ship,  which  were  closely  braced  up.  After  we  had 
gained  an  opening,  we  found  a great  many  ice  isl- 
ands opposite  to  us,  and  one  in  particular,  which  seem- 
ed to  be  aground,  from  the  rock  that  we  saw  under  it 
when  the  water  had  washed  it  clear  at  the  surface. 
Upon  this  island  of  ice,  large  quantities  of  earth  and 
some  pieces  of  rock  were  found. 

Four  boats  left  the  ship  for  this  iceberg,  and  in  one 
I took  passage  with  Lieutenant  Alden.  We  soon 
effected  a landing  upon  it.  Mr.  Waldron,  purser, 
landed  on  the  other  side  of  the  island,  and  both  par- 
ties met  in  the  centre.  Here  all  hands  were  busily 
employed  in  collecting  sand  and  sandstone,  quartz 
and  sand.  Some  of  the  pieces  Aveighed  upwards  of 
one  hundred  pounds.  Several  curious  shells  were 
found,  entirely  new,  so  far  as  our  knowledge  was 
concerned.  The  French  books  were  examined,  but 
nothing  in  them  was  figured  resembling  these  speci- 
mens. It  was  found  to  be  between  a cone  and  an 
10* 


114 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


olive.  The  collection  of  specimens  obtained  on  this 
island  is  no  doubt  more  than  we  should  have  been  able 
to  have  got  on  the  land,  if  we  had  been  so  fortunate  as 
to  have  landed ; for  the  surface  of  the  earth  on  the 
land  must  be  covered  with  ice,  many  feet  deep. 

During  the  afternoon,  from  three  to  five  hundred 
gallons  of  fresh  water  were  collected  from  the  pool  on 
the  iceberg.  Captain  Wilkes  took  the  magnetic  in- 
struments on  the  ice  and  made  observations.  He 
took  the  bearing  and  distance  of  the  land,  after  which, 
hoisted  the  flag  number  one,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
flag-staff  left  a bottle  with  sealed  instructions  for  the 
Peacock  and  Porpoise,  in  case  they  should  reach 
this  point.  From  this  iceberg  there  were  upwards  of 
sixty  miles  of  coast  in  sight;  bearing  the  same  as 
that  we  had  seen  the  preceding  day.  After  all  the 
boats  returned,  we  hoisted  up,  and  commenced  select- 
ing our  way  out  for  an  opening.  During  the  night  it 
was  very  clear  and  cold. 

We  still  continued  to  coast  to  the  westward,  in  the 
expectation  of  an  opening  to  the  land;  but  a long 
time  was  spent  in  vain  endeavors.  Land  was  in 
sight  at  a distance,  yet  so  far  as  we  were  concerned, 
it  might  have  been  beyond  the  reach  of  human  vision. 
Several  icebergs  were  seen  drifting  by,  with  specimens 
of  sand  and  stones  imbedded  in  them.  On  one  an 
enormous  sea  lion  was  observed ; a boat  was  immedi- 
ately despatched  with  guns  to  kill  him,  but  he  out- 
generaled all  of  them,  with  a new  move  in  military 
tactics,  unknown  to  all  of  our  soldiers.  He  made 
quite  a flare  up  before  he  left ; leaving  our  gentlemen 
to  judge  of  his  abilities  as  a water  inhabitant  of  the 
antarctic  region.  During  the  encounter,  several  oth- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


115 


ers  were  seen  near,  which  seemed  disposed  to  come 
to  his  rescue.  At  several  times  they  swam  to  the 
edge  and  rested  their  heads  upon  projecting  parts  of 
the  island,  but  none  succeeded  in  getting  upon  it.  In 
his  exasperation  he  would  approach  us,  as  if  intent 
upon  our  destruction,  yet  not  quite  willing  to  grapple 
with  us.  At  last  finding  himself  in  danger  of  being 
captured  he  wisely  plunged  into  his  native  element, 
leaving  us  to  conduct  our  assault  as  might  best  suit 
our  convenience. 

The  sea  lion  is  a species  of  the  seal,  sometimes 
called  the  mammoth  seal.  He  is  of  the  larger  kind, 
and  has  an  extensive  mane , from  which  circumstance 
he  derives  his  name. 

We  afterward  ventured  to  pass  somewhat  nearer 
to  the  harrier,  which  brought  us  in  contact  with  huge 
quantities  of  fucus  pyriformes , among  which  we  saw 
several  seals,  feeding  on  the  lepas  anatifera , in  which 
this  fucus  abounds. 

Though  far  removed  from  the  more  favored  climes, 
these  animals  are  still  cared  for  by  their  Creator,  who 
adapts  conditions  to  circumstances,  and  suffers  not 
the  most  insignificant  creature  which  he  has  made, 
to  perish  unpitied  or  unprovided  for. 

On  the  17th,  with  much  regret,  we  found  ourselves 
closely  embayed,  and  unable  to  proceed  any  farther 
to  the  westward.  There  was  no  alternative  for  us, 
but  to  retrace  our  way  back  as  soon  as  possible,  for 
the  weather  had  a threatening  appearance,  and  the 
small  space  we  had  to  work  ship  in  would  have  placed 
us  in  a dangerous  situation.  We  were  now  in  lati- 
tude 64  deg.  00  min.  15  sec.,  longitude  97  deg.  44 
min.  E. 


116 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


As  we  could  proceed  no  further  and  finding  the  bar- 
rier to  the  northward  and  eastward,  being  surrounded 
on  all  sides  with  an  impenetrable  mass  of  ice,  we  put 
about  and  commenced  beating  up  its  northern  shore 
to  get  out. 

All  of  the  18th  we  were  beating  along  the  northern 
shore  of  the  barrier,  in  order  to  effect  our  escape.  A 
number  of  whales  were  seen  sporting  in  their  native 
element,  heeding  not  the  rigors  of  the  polar,  wintry 
blasts,  and  untrammeled  by  icy  barriers.  The  night 
passed  off  with  threatening  weather  and  appearances 
of  snow.  All  of  the  following  day  we  were  still  beat- 
ing, to  effect  an  escape  from  the  barrier,  as  we  had 
much  fear  of  being  embayed  in  it.  The  reader  can 
have  but  vague  ideas  of  the  prospect  before  us.  Im- 
mense fields  of  ice  were  crowding  around  us,  and 
when  once  the  aperture  should  become  closed,  and 
the  masses  adhered,  the  hope  of  a deliverance  might 
have  been  exceedingly  precarious. 

There  was  a great  quantity  of  animalcules  and 
crustacia  in  the  water ; some  were  caught,  among 
which  was  Talitius , and  another  was  procured  before 
from  the  stomach  of  a penguin.  At  sunset  (ten 
o’clock  at  night,)  on  the  20th,  the  extreme  northern 
end  of  the  barrier  was  in  sight,  to  the  great  joy  of  all 
on  board.  We  had  thus  far,  in  our  last  critical  situ- 
ation, been  favored  with  tolerably  good  weather, 
though  it  looked  very  threatening,  and  if  a gale  had 
come  on  while  we  were  in  this  situation,  we  must 
have  been  embedded,  and  no  doubt  would  have 
caused  our  destruction.  We  certainly  had  great  rea- 
son to  be  thankful  to  the  All  Merciful  Almighty,  for 
this  safe  deliverance  from  our  perilous  situation.  We 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


117 


were  particularly  blessed  on  this  arduous  cruise,  from 
the  fact  that  no  accident  of  any  kind  happened  to  us. 

At  7 o'clock,  P.  M.,  21st,  all  hands  were  called 
to  muster,  when  Captain  Wilkes  told  them  that  he 
was  happy  to  inform  them  that  the  cruise  south  had 
terminated,  and  that  he  intended  to  proceed  to  the 
north.  He,  in  a very  handsome  and  brief  manner, 
thanked  the  officers  and  men  for  the  very  able  man- 
ner in  which  they  had  performed  their  duty,  while 
engaged  in  this  arduous  service.  He  assured  all 
hands  that  he  should  represent  their  conduct  in  the 
most  favorable  light  possible,  to  the  government,  and 
he  had  no  doubt  that  a generous  people  would  grant 
to  all  a suitable  reward  for  their  past  services ; after 
which  he  ordered  the  “ main-brace  spliced,”  that  is, 
an  extra  allowance  of  grog  to  all  hands,  when  there 
was  a general  buzz  throughout  the  ship.  Hot  coffee 
and  refreshments  had  been  served  out  every  night  to 
the  different  watches,  up  to  this. 

This  commences  a new  era  in  the  history  of  our 
cruise.  Since  our  departure  we  have  seen  almost  ev- 
ery variety  of  climate  and  scenery.  We  have  been 
where  the  tropical  sun  pours  his  torrid  rays  upon  a 
weak  and  effeminate  race  of  men.  in  all  of  the  inten- 
sity of  equatorial  heat ; in  a latitude  where  spicy  gales 
are  wafted  from  isle  to  isle,  and  where  blossoms  and 
delicious  fruit  ever  luxuriate  ; — and  we  had  been  in 
cold,  gloomy,  sterile,  and  uninviting  regions,  where 
not  a leaf  or  shrub  was  seen, — not  even  a trace  of  a 
human  being  could  be  detected.  It  is  not  probable 
that  human  footstep  ever  impressed  that  sterile,  frigid 
continent.  If  so,  we  may  be  allowed  to  conjecture 
that  they  are  a race  totally  distinct  from  ours,  obtain- 


118 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ing  a livelihood,  not  from  a culture  of  the  soil, — for 
that  seemed  deep  imbedded  beneath  an  enormous 
mantle  of  ice  and  snow, — but  by  means  entirely  dis- 
tinct from  that  of  any  race  with  which  we  are  ac- 
quainted. We  had  been  more  than  fifty  days  in  a 
bleak  latitude,  and  during  most  of  that  time,  at  an 
unpleasant  proximity  to  the  continent,  with  a tower- 
ing, impenetrable  icy  barrier  preventing  our  nearer 
approach,  and  often  threatening  to  close  in  upon  us ; 
thus  shutting  us  out  from  all  communication  with  our 
fellow  men.  A portion  of  that  time  we  were  almost 
enclosed  by  this  far-reaching  field  of  ice,  now  rising 
to  an  almost  incredible  height  above  us,  leaving  only 
a narrow  channel  through  which  we  could  make  our 
escape,  and  now  disparted,  tumbling  and  rolling  and 
chafing  in  fury,  as  the  rude  polar  blasts  came  sweep- 
ing by,  dashing  island  upon  island,  and  mass  upon 
mass,  with  tremendous  crash  ! It  was  a scene  that 
to  be  appreciated,  must  be  witnessed.  It  will  not  sur- 
prise the  reader  to  learn  that  we  often  thought  of  our 
homes,  thousands  of  miles  distant,  where  we  once 
shared  the  friendship  and  confidence  of  kindred  and 
friends,  interchanged  kindly  salutations,  and  recipro- 
cated each  expression  of  regard  or  affection.  There 
were  times  in  which  the  prospect  of  a return  to  our 
quiet  homes  was  not  the  most  flattering,  but  when  we 
were  liable  at  almost  any  moment  to  make  our  bed  in 
that  great  receptacle  of  ocean’s  sons,  uncoffmed  and 
unshrouded,  save  by  the  ever-restless  wave  and  mass- 
ive icebergs,  with  no  requiem,  save  the  deep  voice  of 
ocean’s  u thunder-gong,”  pealing  in  all  of  its  wild 
sublimity.  Like  the  dove  of  ancient  time,  or  some 
lone  wanderer  bewildered  and  exhausted,  we  long 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


119 


sought  for  a resting-place,  but  found  none.  The  ha- 
ven was  within  sight,  but  inaccessible. 

After  despairing  of  effecting  a landing,  we  directed 
our  course  northward.  Our  speed  was  unparalleled 
in  a sea  of  ice  like  this,  and  probably  no  other  man 
in  the  world  would  have  made  such  a cruise  in  the 
ice,  and  tried  to  effect  an  entrance  in  such  dangerous 
situations.  He  is  certainly  the  most  persevering  man 
I ever  saw. 

As  we  made  our  progress  toward  the  north,  the 
weather  became  more  mild  and  agreeable.  The  sick 
were  improving,  and  those  men  who  had  been  frozen 
on  the  yards,  on  the  night  of  the  29th  January,  had 
all  so  far  recovered  as  to  go  about  the  decks. 

We  parted  company  with  the  squadron,  and  have 
not  seen  the  schooner  since  the  3d  January,  the  Pea- 
cock on  the  19th,  and  the  Porpoise  on  the  27th. 


120 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Arrival  at  New  Holland — Singular  coincidence — Arrival  at  New 
Zealand — “ War  Dance  ” — Description  of  the  Islands — Inhab- 
itants— The  New  Zealanders  and  New  Hollanders  contrasted. 


“ Ocean,  unequal  pressed,  with  broken  tide 

And  blind  commotion  heaves;  while  from  the  shore, 

Eat  into  caverns  by  the  restless  wave, 

And  forest-rustling  mountain  comes  a voice, 

That  solemn  sounding  bids  the  world  prepare  ! 

Then  issues  forth  the  storm  with  sudden  burst, 

And  hurls  the  whole  precipitated  air 
Down  in  a torrent.  On  the  passive  main 
Descends  the  etherial  force,  and  with  strong  gust 
Turns  from  its  bottom  the  discolored  deep.” 


On  the  5th  of  March  we  made  the  coast  of  New 
Holland,  to  the  southward  of  Botany  Bay.  In  pass- 
ing this  spot,  memorable  for  being  the  first  place  in 
New  Holland  which  was  visited  and  named  by  Cap- 
tain Cook,  where  convicts  are  sent,  and  the  last  place 
where  the  unfortunate  La  Parouse  was  heard  from, 
we  could  but  be  interested  in  these  associations.  It  is 
a deep  bay,  and  from  appearances  without  the  en- 
trance, is  between  two  high  head  lands,  called  Cape 
Banks  and  Solauder.  It  makes  into  two  bays,  but 
neither  affords  good  anchorage  for  vessels  of  a large 
size.  It  is  sufficiently  commodious  as  a place  of  re- 
treat for  small  ones,  wind-bound,  destined  to  different 
parts  of  the  coast.  It  was  ascertained,  on  the  evening 
of  the  27th  December,  that  we  had  on  board  a boy 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE.  121 

belonging  to  the  50th  regiment,  which  is  stationed  at 
Sydney.  He  was  sick  nearly  the  whole  cruise  south. 
He  was  aware  that  Capt.  Wilkes  would  give  him  up. 
I felt  sorry  for  him ; I knew  his  feelings  must  be  tor- 
turing. 

At  half  past  1 o’clock,  the  telegraph  on  Sydney 
Heads,  made  signal  of  our  approach,  and  in  about 
half  an  hour  we  saw  the  pilot  coming  out  to  us.  He* 
soon  boarded  us,  and  we  learned  from  him  that  the 
U.  S.  Ship  Peacock  had  arrived  at  that  place  on  the 
22d  February  in  a sinking  condition,  having  carried 
away  her  rudder  and  all  her  cut- water,  and  also  all 
of  her  bulwarks  and  timbers,  from  the  starboard  gang- 
way to  the  tafrail,  and  that  she  was  then  in  Mor- 
mon’s cove,  repairing.  This  was  rather  unwelcome 
news  to  us,  as  we  only  expected  to  remain  in  Sydney 
long  enough  to  get  water ; but  we  found,  now,  that 
we  should  be  detained  with  the  Peacock  for  some 
time.  At  half  past  2 o’clock  we  came  to  anchor  in 
u Farmer’s  Cove,”  near  H.  B.  M.  Transport  Ship  Buf- 
falo, Capt.  Wood.  This  ship  had  just  arrived  with 
the  Canadian  convicts,  among  whom,  we  were  in- 
formed, were  several  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
They  must  have  looked  at  the  American  flag  with 
feelings  differing  widely  from  those  which  animated 
their  bosoms  when  some  of  them  left  their  homes 
under  its  protection,  to  violate  the  laws  of  a country 
with  which  we  were  on  terms  of  friendship.  If  it  had 
been  for  the  pure  love  of  liberty,  I should  have  pitied 
them  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart,  but  this  was  not 
the  case;  it  was  for  self-gratification,  and  nothing 
more. 

The  people  of  Sydney  appeared  to  be  as  glad  to  see 

11 


122 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


us  as  if  it  had  been  our  homes.  We  heard,  while 
here,  of  the  arrival  of  the  two  French  discovery  ships 
at  Hobart  Town : and  what  is  more  remarkable,  they 
also  discovered  land  on  the  same  day,  19th  January, 
in  the  evening,  being  only  1800  miles  in  longitude 
from  each  other.  It  is  one  of  those  remarkable  cir- 
cumstances that  sometimes  happens. 

The  French  commander  has  published  quite  an 
elaborate  report  of  his  discoveries  while  south. 
He  had  been  very  unfortunate  in  the  loss  of  his  offi- 
cers and  men,  among  whom  was  his  artist,  N.  Ernest 
Goupel.  The  French  Commodore  lost,  from  the  3d 
Nov.  1839,  to  the  2d  January,  1840,  four  officers  and 
twenty-seven  men. 

Every  thing  being  completed  on  our  part,  we  left 
the  Peacock  to  join  us  at  Tongataboo.  We  made  sail 
for  the  Bay  of  Islands,  New  Zealand,  on  the  29th 
March.  As  we  passed  along,  we  found  the  water  re- 
markably full  of  phosphorescence.  We  discovered  a 
sail ; it  proved  to  be  the  French  whale  ship  Ville  de 
Bordeux,  from  New  Zealand,  bound  to  Sydney.  Her 
crew  were  sickly,  and  the  surgeon  of  this  ship  went 
on  board  and  prescribed  for  them.  Her  provisions 
being  short  we  gave  her  a barrel  of  beef,  and  one  of 
poxk,  and  a number  of  tin  cases  with  roast  beef  and 
preserved  soup  for  the  sick ; after  which  we  parted 
company. 

At  10  o’clock,  P.  M.,  March  30th,  we  came  to 
anchor  in  the  Bay  of  Islands,  New  Zealand,  in  five 
fathoms  water.  We  found  here  at  anchor  the  brig 
Porpoise,  and  schr.  Flying  Fish,  and  a number  of 
English  and  American  whale  ships. 

We  were  visited  by  Bomarri,  the  principal  chief  at 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


123 


the  place,  with  all  of  his  under  chiefs,  and  a number 
of  his  people, — from  three  to  five  hundred.  Many 
presents  were  distributed  to  him  and  his  people.  He 
invited  Captain  Wilkes  and  the  officers  of  this  ship  to 
attend,  to-morrow,  on  shore,  when  he  would  have  a 
grand  11  war  dance 55  performed  for  them,  at  the  resi- 
dence of  the  American  consul.  On  the  next  day, 
hundreds  of  the  natives  were  seen  coming  down  the 
river  in  their  canoes  to  the  consul’s  wharf,  to  engage 
in  the  dance.  At  the  appointed  time,  Capt.  Wilkes 
and  officers  went  on  shore  to  witness  the  savage  cere- 
mony. One  hundred  pounds  of  sugar,  two  bags  of 
rice,  fifty  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  several  small  trink- 
ets were  sent  ashore,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Dyes  for  Bo- 
marri  and  his  people.  At  12,  the  war  dance  com- 
menced on  two  hills  near  the  consul’s  store — the  turn 
parties  representing  themselves  as  enemies  to  each 
other.  They  all  had  firearms,  clubs  and  spears ; 
they  commenced  stamping,  and  making  hideous  faces 
and  loud  ejaculations,  showing  themselves  off  in  a 
general  perturbation  and  maddened  frenzy.  When 
they  had  arrived  at  the  height  of  their  wrath,  they 
frothed  at  the  mouth,  and  stamped  the  ground  with 
such  force,  as  seemingly  to  make  it  tremble.  During 
the  dance  they  kept  moving  down  the  sides  of  the 
hills,  facing  each  other,  and  at  a certain  yell,  they  ran 
together  with  tremendous  force,  as  if  they  intended  to 
tear  each  other  in  pieces ; and  as  they  were  all  to- 
gether in  this  confusion,  with  arms  extended  in  the 
air,  they  continued  to  discharge  their  pieces,  and  yell 
so  as  to  make  the  elements  resound  with  their  noise. 
They  then  in  this  confusion  started  off  in  a full  gallop, 
making  the  earth  tremble  with  their  noise,  as  if  so 


124 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


many  horses  were  running  at  full  speed,  until  they 
reached  the  third  hill,  on  which  is  situated  the  con- 
sul’s house.  Here  they  commenced  running  back- 
ward and  forward  for  about  700  yards,  coming  in 
contact  with  a fence,  when  they  would  in  very  good 
order  discharge  all  of  their  pieces,  then  arrange  them- 
selves into  two  phalanges  and  commence  another 
dance.  After  finishing  this  novel  amusement,  they 
commenced  another  dance,  which  they  called  “ enter- 
taining strangers;77  then  a speech  was  made,  in 
which  the  speaker  exhibited  considerable  taste.  This 
being  completed,  a number  of  New  Zealand  girls  were 
arranged  in  an  angle  to  perform  a “love  dance.77 

This  bore  some  resemblance  to  the  “ war  dance,77 
though  less  boisterous.  They  were  arrariged  in  par- 
ties— as  in  the  preceding  dance — and  performed  many 
unique  gestures.  These  consisted  in  the  raising  and 
falling  of  the  hands  and  feet  alternately,  sometimes 
singly  and  sometimes  in  pairs.  Those  of  my  readers 
who  have  seen  the  ceremonies  of  the  Shakers,  may 
form  some  idea  of  a part  of  these  antics.  I am  not 
prepared  to  say  which  party  should  claim  originality 
in  this  matter,  the  Shakers  or  the  Islanders.  It  is  not 
probable,  however,  that  these  simple  natives,  from  the 
nature  of  the  case,  ever  saw  such  exercises  among  civ- 
ilized nations. 

The  group  of  islands,  known  under  the  general 
name  of  New  Zealand,  is  situated  a little  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  180th  deg.  of  longitude,  and  between  the 
34th  and  48th  parallel  of  S.  latitude — extending  from 
north  to  south  upwards  of  800  geographical  miles, 
with  an  average  breadth  of  100  miles,  and  containing 
an  extent  of  surface  equal  to  that  of  the  British  Isl- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


125 


ands.  The  coast  line,  following  the  various  indenta- 
tions of  the  land,  extends  upwards  of  3000  miles,  and 
comprises  a greater  number  of  eligible  islands,  har- 
bors, bays  and  roadsteads,  than  is  to  be  found  along 
an  equal  extent  of  coast  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world. 

The  Bay  of  Islands,  a name  derived  from  the  num- 
ber of  rocks  with  which  it  is  studded,  is  a remarkably ' 
fine  and  capacious  harbor,  and  affords  shelter  in  all 
seasons,  and  all  weathers,  to  a large  number  of  ves- 
sels. Its  width,  from  head  to  head,  is  about  eleven 
miles,  affording  sufficient  room  for  vessels  to  beat  in. 
A great  number  of  European  and  American  vessels 
touch  at  this  harbor  for  supplies  of  fresh  provisions 
and  vegetables;  most  of  them  are  upwards  of  300 
tons.  This  bay  has  been  surveyed  with  great  care 
and  correctness  by  two  French  ships,  La  Coquilla,  in 
1824,  and  La  Astrolobe,  in  1830,  1,  2 and  3.  Its 
anchorages  are  various,  namely : — Tepuna,  a road- 
stead on  the  northern  side  of  the  bay,  opposite  the 
missionary  station  of  that  name,  and  the  native  vil- 
j lage  of  Rangihoua  Paroa,  a deep  bay  on  the  south 
side  of  the  islands,  a snug  and  capacious  harbor,  af- 
fording shelter  from  all  winds,  and  is  the  anchorage 
which  the  whaling  vessels  formerly  made  use  of. 

The  anchorages  now  generally  used,  are  the  Bay 
of  Kororareka  and  the  River  Kawakawa.  The 
former  is  used  by  vessels  wanting  a slight  refitting,  or 
for  procuring  water  and  refreshments; — the  Kawaka- 
wa, when  repairs  to  any  extent  are  necessary,  or  the 
replacing  of  the  masts,  being  more  secured,  and  hav- 
ing the  shores  nearer  them,  from  which  they  procure 
the  greater  portion  of  their  supplies,  with  the  excep- 


126 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


tion  of  provisions.  Both  these  anchorage  grounds 
possess  sufficient  water  for  ships  of  the  greatest  ton- 
nage. 

There  fall  into  this  bay  the  Rivers  Kidi  Kidi,  in 
which,  at  the  distance  of  about  two  miles  from  the 
mission,  are  the  magnificent  falls  of  Wani  Wani , or 
u waters  of  the  Rain  Bow  the  Warooa,  with  its  falls ; 
the  Manganeri : the  Palconda,  the  Kawakawa,  and 
many  minor  streams ; their  banks  and  the  interior  of 
the  country  presenting  one  of  the  richest  soils  of  the 
whole  island,  yielding  crops  when  cultivated,  of 
every  kind  known  in  the  country,  in  the  greatest 
abundance.  It  is  nearly  equally  divided  by  Cook’s 
Straits.  The  islands  abound  in  fine  timber,  and 
most  of  the  European  vegetables  grow  in  the  greatest 
abundance.  W e did  not  visit  any  other  part  but  the 
Bay  of  Islands.  The  village  of  Kororareka,  the 
principal  village  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  stands  on  the 
west  side,  as  you  pass  up,  and  is  the  principal  anchor- 
age for  ships.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  the  mission- 
ary station  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  at  Paikia. 
Kororareka  is  filled  with  convicts  from  New  South 
Wales,  and,  as  is  natural  to  suppose,  are  corrupt  in 
the  extreme,  there  being  no  laws  to  restrain  them  in 
their  evil  practices.  The  natives  are  exceedingly 
vicious,  and  how  can  we  blame  them,  when  they 
have  had  such  powerful  examples  set  them  by  their 
teachers  ? It  appears  that  these  have  been  here 

teaching  the  natives  since  the  year  1814;  and  in- 
stead of  sowing  the  seeds  of  virtue  and  morality,  are 
disseminating  vices  of  all  kinds,  drunkenness,  licen- 
tiousness and  other  abominable  crimes. 

And  here  let  it  not  be  supposed  that  I would  ceil- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


127 


sure  the  enterprise  of  civilizing  and  Christianizing 
these  benighted  natives ; far  from  it.  Yet  it  really 
seems  that,  in  this  one  instance,  these  labors  have  not 
been  productive  of  as  much  good  as  we  have  a right 
to  expect  from  the  introduction  of  the  truths  of  Chris- 
tianity among  heathen  nations.  It  is  not  my  prov- 
ince to  assign  reasons,  but  simply  to  state  the  facts  as 
I have  been  able  to  collect  them.  It  is  possible  that 
the  counteracting  influences  of  vicious  seamen  and 
others  visiting  these  islands, — as  is  too  often  true, — 
have  done  much  to  prevent  the  natural  reformatory 
results  of  the  introduction  of  the  Christian  religion. 

NEW  ZEALANDERS. 

The  natives  of  this  island  are,  on  the  whole,  a fine 
looking  set  of  men.  They  are  about  the  common 
stature  of  Europeans  generally,  though  I saw  some 
seven  feet  and  some  inches.  Their  general  color  is  a 
dark  olive,  but  there  is  considerable  difference  among 
some  of  them,  from  a light  yellow  to  a deep  copper 
color.  Most  of  them  appear  black  about  the  face 
from  the  deep  punctures,  caused  by  tattooing  and  the 
insinuating  of  a dark  liquid  into  the  punctures.  This 
is  not  confined  to  the  face,  but  extends  to  the  hips, 
loins,  posteriors,  thighs,  legs,  ankles  and  feet;  and  in 
some  instances,  the  individual,  when  naked,  looks  as  if 
clothed  in  a coat  of  mail.  Their  faces  are  round  and 
well  proportioned ; they  have  fine  proportioned  noses, 
generally  full  at  the  point,  with  well  formed  mouths. 
Their  lips  are  full ; they  have  fine  white  teeth,  well 
set ; their  eyes  are  large  and  strong ; the  white  looks  of 
a greyish  cast,  as  if  affected  with  the  jaundice.  Their 
hair  is  jet  black,  straight,  coarse  and  strong;  they 


128 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


wear  it  cut  short,  with  a hunch  upon  the  top  of  the 
head.  The  women  are  smaller  than  the  men ; they 
are  ugly,  and  generally  perform  all  the  labor  out  of 
doors.  They,  as  well  as  the  men,  tattoo,  but  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  body, — the  mouth  and  labia  puden- 
di  are  the  parts  which,  according  to  their  custom, 
must  be  tattooed  before  they  are  considered  elegible 
to  the  matrimonial  state. 

The  beauty  and  symmetry  of  the  New  Zealanders, 
probably,  are  owing  mainly  to  their  habits.  They 
are  accustomed  to  much  exercise  and  have  generally 
vigorous  and  athletic  constitutions,  seldom  or  never 
afflicted  with  those  maladies  which  seem  to  be  the 
necessary  attendants  upon  civilization,  though  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  they  are  the  result  of  gross 
abuses.  Deformity  is  almost  entirely  unknown. 
Some  of  those  of  modern  days,  in  this  age  of  intelli- 
gence and  refinement,  would  be  regarded  in  New 
Zealand  as  prodigies,  and  would  surprise  those  sim- 
ple and  comparatively  consistent  people.  They  have 
hut  few  wants  for  the  body,  and  these  are  supplied 
without  much  aid  from  culinary  art.  Their  food  is 
taken  from  the  bosom  of  the  earth,  spontaneously 
supplied  in  the  form  of  bulbous  roots,  &c. 

In  their  simplicity,  they  present  to  the  world  forms 
which  the  civilized  might  envy,  and  a vigor  of  body 
and  mind,  which  gives  them  a preeminence  over 
many  of  their  savage  neighbors  of  different  habits. 
Though  active  and  energetic,  they  are  not, — like 
some  others. — warlike  and  brutal,  but  blend  muscu- 
lar strength  and  vivacity  with  comparative  docility. 
They  are  the  antipodes  of  those  of  New  Holland,  in 
about  the  same  latitude,  who,  in  their  degradation, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


129 


feast  upon  the  carcases  of  dead  whales,  which  by 
chance  float  upon  their  shores.  Both  are  savages, 
but  the  one  is  intellectual,  active  and  man-like , the 
other  corrupt,  deformed  physically  and  mentally,  de- 
graded and  brutal. 

I shall  not  here  enter  into  a description  of  their 
teachers,  as  the  limits  of  my  book  will  not  allow  it : 
for  if  all  their  crimes  were  recorded,  they  would  fill  a 
large  volume. 

We  left  New  Zealand  on  the  6th  of  April,  accom- 
panied by  all  of  the  squadron,  except  the  Peacock. 
Our  passage  was  quite  pleasant,  the  wind  favoring — 
a striking  contrast  with  the  scenes  through  which  we 
had  passed  while  on  the  coast  of  the  newly  discovered 
continent.  In  a few  days  after  our  departure,  we 
passed  Sunday  Island,  but  without  stopping.  The 
water,  during  this  part  of  our  cruise,  wore  a very 
phosphorescent  appearance,  giving  it  an  enlivened  as- 
pect. As  we  passed  along,  several  islands  were  in 
sight,  but  our  particular  commission  did  not  require  a 
stay  at  them.  This  part  of  our  passage  was  not  sig- 
nalized by  any  remarkable  occurrences.  We  were, 
however,  somewhat  startled  by  the  violent  crash  of 
our  vessel,  as  she  struck  a rock  while  passing  through 
a narrow  channel.  She  “ heeled  down”  considerably 
for  a time,  but  soon  passed  over  it  without  any  very 
serious  damage.  On  the  23d  we  made  the  west  point 
of  the  Tongataboo  Island,  where  we  were  to  make  ob- 
servations. 

The  Island  of  Tongataboo  is  flat  and  sandy,  and 
covered  with  cocoa-nut  trees.  A destructive  war  was 
raging  between  the  heathen  and  Christian  party  of 
this  island.  It  occurred  to  me  that  the  missionaries 


130 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


were  placed  in  a dangerous  situation,  but  they  seemed 
to  make  themselves  quite  easy  and  place  implicit 
confidence  in  their  proselytes  to  protect  them.  Ton- 
gataboo,  though  nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  circum- 
ference, is  perfectly  flat  and  rises  only  a few  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  only  elevated  spot  is  a small  hill,  which  is  not, 
I think,  more  than  one  hundred  feet  in  height ; wheth- 
er natural  or  artificial,  I did  not  ascertain,  as  I had 
but  few  opportunities  of  visiting  the  shore ; and  then 
it  was  only  for  a few  moments  at  a time.  On  the 
top  of  this  is  a fort,  where  all  the  people  of  the  dis- 
trict concentrate  when  driven  to  extremities,  in  time 
of  war.  This  hill  is  particularly  memorable  in  the 
annals  of  Tonga  warfare,  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
having  been  the  first  place  where  the  inhabitants  felt 
the  effects  and  deadly  power  of  the  cannon  ball.  The 
Christian  part  of  the  Tonga  army  was  then  encamped 
upon  the  top  of  this  hill,  expecting  every  moment  to 
be  attacked  by  their  enemies.  On  the  top  of  the  hill 
is  erected  a strong  reed  fence,  entrenched  around  by  a 
deep  ditch.  Inside  of  the  fortification,  they  have 
several  pieces  of  cannon  of  small  calibre.  The  prin- 
cipal chief  of  the  Christian  party  is  named  by  the 
missionaries  “King  George,”  after  the  King  of  Eng- 
land : his  native  name  I have  not  learned. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  the  belligerent  parties 
met  and  had  a skirmishing  engagement,  but  nothing 
on  either  side  was  effected. 

It  having  been  agreed  by  both  parties  that  the  isl- 
and on  which  we  had  onr  observatory  should  be  con- 
sidered as  neutral  ground,  and  nothing  should  be 
molested,  and  also  that  no  native  should  go  there 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


131 


without  Captain  Wilkes’s  order  or  permission,  we 
had  but  little  concern  with  this  war.  On  the  23d 
April  the  Porpoise  arrived,  and  came  to  anchor  near 
us.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Yincennes,  Brig  Porpoise 
and  Schooner  Flying  Fish  stood  over  for  the  village, 
the  brig  and  schooner  running  upon  a reef.  Boats 
were  sent  from  the  ship  to  their  assistance ; they  were 
j both  soon  got  off.  however,  and  came  to  anchor  oflf  the 
village  near  us.  A rather  singular  incident  occurred 
on  the  morning  of  the  4th.  It  was  discovered  that 
during  the  night,  two  females,  natives  of  the  Fiji 
Islands,  had  swum  to  the  schooner,  and  were  admit- 
ted on  board.  Their  intention  was  to  get  a passage 
back  to  the  Fijis ; they  were  sent  to  the  Peacock,  and 
from  her  to  this  ship,  and  were  sent  on  shore  with  the 
j pilot  when  he  left  the  ship. 

The  reason  why  these  women  left  and  swam  this 
distance  of  ten  miles , was  to  escape  from  the  cruel 
treatment  which  was  inflicted  on  them  by  the  natives 
of  this  village.  They  had  been  tied  up  by  the  wrist 
for  forty-eight  hours,  and  in  such  a position  that  their 
toes  nearly  touched  the  ground.  This,  as  may  be 
supposed,  would  cause  any  person  to  leave  such  a 
class  of  people.  They  were,  in  my  opinion,  better 
than  any  of  their  more  enlightened  neighbors,  for  I 
candidly  believe  there  is  not  a philanthropist  among 
j them. 

Intemperance  rages  here  to  a great  extent  among 
some  classes  of  natives.  The  first  thing  the  native 
!'  pilot  asked  for,  on  boarding  us,  was  a bottle  of  rum. 

From  this  island  we  proceeded  to  the  Fiji  Islands, 
for  the  purpose  of  examining  and  surveying  them. 
Nothing  of  importance  happened  on  the  passage,  and 


132 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


we  arrived  off  the  Island  of  Ovalau  on  the  6th  May, 
and  on  the  following  morning,  stood  into  the  harbor 
and  came  to  anchor  near  the  village  of  Laboaka,  Isl- 
and of  Ovalau. 

On  coming  to  anchor  we  were  boarded  by  some 
white  men  from  a little  trading  schooner  which  came 
out  to  meet  us ; the  chief  mate  of  the  American  trading 
ship  Leonidas  was  the  commander.  His  name  is 
Wynn,  and  has  traded  a great  deal  among  these  isl- 
ands. 

Thousands  of  natives  assembled  on  the  beach  to 
witness  the  operation  of  furling  the  sails  ; and  when 
the  men  went  aloft  and  lay  out  on  the  yards,  the  na- 
tives on  shore  raised  the  loudest  shout  that  I ever 
heard.  Shortly  after  our  arrival  the  principal  chief 
of  the  village  paid  us  a visit,  with  a number  of  white 
men  who  reside  on  shore.  The  natives  flocked  in 
great  numbers  alongside  with  yams,  fish  and  other 
things  of  this  kind  to  trade,  and  in  a few  moments  a 
brisk  business  was  underway.  Our  South  Sea  pilot 
and  interpreter  was  overwhelmed  in  business,  and  the 
jargon  he  used,  and  that  of  the  natives,  might  with  pro- 
priety vie  with  that  of  Babel.  In  some  of  the  canoes 
were  women  and  children  as  naked  as  our  first  pa- 
rents, when  inhabitants  of  the  garden  of  Eden.  Yet 
many  of  the  females  seemed  quite  modest  and  sensi- 
ble of  their  destitute  situation.  The  men  wore  a 
mara , that  is,  a strip  of  tappa  passed  over  the  loins. 

The  schooner  Flying  Fish  arrived  on  the  11th, 
having  been  ashore  on  a coral  reef,  and  carried  away 
a portion  of  her  false  keel.  This  morning  the  Launch 
and  first  cutter  sailed  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Alden 
and  Sailing  Master  Knox,  to  make  surveys  among  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


133 


various  islands  and  reefs.  The  next  morning  the 
Peacock’s  first  sea  cutter  sailed  in  charge  of  Passed 
Mid.  Simon  F.  Blunt,  and  also  the  Peacock’s  launch, 
in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Emmons,  sailed  on  a survey- 
ing excursion  to  operate  with  the  other  boats  which 
had  sailed  the  preceding  day. 


CHAPTER  X. 


General  Remarks — Fiji  Islands — Cannibalism — A Convict  Ex- 
ile— Death  of  a Shipmate — Encounter  with  the  Natives — Visit 
at  Muth water — A Fatal  Contest  with  the  Natives. 

“The  natives,  while  the  ship  departs  the  land, 

Ashore  with  admiration,  gazing  stand. 

Majestically  slow,  before  the  breeze, 

In  silent  pomp  she  marches  on  the  seas  ; 

Her  milk-white  bottom  cast  a softer  gleam, 

While  trembling  through  the  green,  translucent  stream, 

Thus  the  rich  vessel  moves  in  trim  array, 

Like  some  fair  virgin  on  her  bridal  day. 

Thus  like  a swan  she  cleaves  the  watery  plain, 

The  pride  and  wonder  of  the  mighty  main.” 

Falconer v 

GENERAL  REMARKS  AND  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  FIJI  ISL- 
ANDS. 

The  Fiji  Islands  are  a numerous  group  between 
the  parallels  of  15  deg.  05  min.  and  19  deg.  south 
latitude,  and  extends  from  about  177  deg.  to  182  deg. 
east  longitude.  They  were  discovered  by  Abel  Jansz 
Lansman  in  1643,  after  his  discovery  of  Tongataboor 
12 


134 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


although  never  made  known  to  the  public  by  the 
Dutch  Government,  until  after  they  were  generally 
known  to  Europe.  Captain  James  Cook,  while  at 
Tongataboo  in  1773,  learned  that  there  was  a large 
island  by  the  name  of  the  Fijis,  situated  N.  W.  by 
W.,  about  three  days  sail  from  Tongataboo.  Capt. 
James  Bligh,  of  the  Bounty,  fell  in  with  the  eastern 
part  of  the  Fiji  Group,  in  long.  178  deg.  west,  and  in 
19  deg.  50  min.  south  lat.,  in  1791,  on  his  passage  in  the 
Launch  of  the  ship  to  the  Straits  of  Timore.  Captain 
Wilson,  in  the  ship  Duff,  visited  these  islands,  to  land 
missionaries,  as  early  as  1797,  but  was  prevented, 
from  the  great  difficulty  he  experienced  in  the  navi- 
gation among  them,  and  the  hostile  appearance  of  the 
natives. 

The  Fiji,  or  Yiji  Islands,  may  be  divided  into  three 
divisions.  1st.  The  weather,  or  eastern  group,  com- 
prising Lakemba  and  the  surrounding  islands;  2d. 
The  Yiji  Levu,  or  great  Yiji,  and  its  neighboring  isl- 
ands; and  3d.  Tarkanava,  or  North  Islands,  and 
those  adjacent. 

These  divisions  contain  a group,  said  by  the  natives 
to  amount  to  200  in  number.  Yiji  Levu  possesses  the 
largest  river,  and  is  navigable  for  many  miles,  as  well 
as  other  islands  which  have  rivers,  for  canoes,  for 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  in  the  interior.  Two  of  these 
islands,  Yiji  Levu,  Yenna  Leva,  possess  such  a vast 
interior,  that  the  inhabitants  have  never  seen  the  sea, 
and  speak  a diiferent  language  from  those  residing  on 
the  seaboard.  There  has  not,  as  yet,  been  any  infor- 
mation obtained  of  their  number,  maimers  and  cus- 
toms of  the  natives.  The  natives  told  us  that  many 
of  the  districts  in  the  interior  contained  more  inhabi- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE.  135 

tants  than  the  island  of  Tongataboo.  Most  of  the  isl- 
ands are  covered  with  trees  and  shrubbery  corres- 
ponding to  the  islands  in  the  South  Pacific  Ocean. 
The  formation  of  the  Fiji  Islands  varies  much ; they 
are,  no  doubt,  of  volcanic  origin.  From  what  I saw, 
I should  say  that  it  is  not  many  years  since  some  of 
them  were  in  full  and  active  eruption.  Their  geolog- 
j ical  structure,  as  far  as  my  observations  extended, 
is  as  follows  : — Ovalauh  as  large  beds  of  ferruginous 
marl,  and  is  conglomerated,  showing  plainly  that  it 
has  not  been  a very  long  time  since  it  experienced  a 
greater  convulsion  of  the  earth ; it  is  very  mountain- 
ous, and  has  a beautiful  appearance.  Viji  Levu 
abounds  in  rock  of  a hexagonal  form,  apparently 
composed  of  a basaltes  bau,  and  appears  to  be  indu- 
| rated  clay — the  clay  containing  nodules  of  grit. 
Banga  appears  to  have  been  a vast  volcano,  for  there 
have  been  found  at  the  height  of  eighty-six  feet,  large 
excavations  caused  by  heat,  and  was  covered  with 
scoria;  and  the  harbor,  which  is  said  to  be  a beautiful 
one,  was  formed  by  a crater,  once  in  active  operation. 
All  the  islands,  and  passages  between  them,  in  this 
group,  are  surrounded  with  coral  reefs,  and  require 
the  greatest  attention  in  navigating  them.  The  isl- 
ands are  generally  destitute  of  good  bays  or  harbors, 
only  so  far  as  this  is  compensated  for  by  reefs,  which 
sweep  around,  so  as  to  form  good  breakwaters,  and 
afford  protection  from  the  violence  of  the  ocean.  I 
think  it  would  be  unsafe  for  any  person  to  attempt  to 
navigate  these  passages  without  a good  pilot,  and  I 
believe  these  may  be  procured  at  Ovalau,  as  there  is 
a large  number  of  white  men  residing  at  Labouka, 
who  are  always  cruising  and  trading  among  these  isl- 


136 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ands.  They  are  quite  well  acquainted  with  all  the 
difficult  and  dangerous  reefs,  passages,  &c.  Most  of 
the  coral  reefs  are  thickly  covered  with  the  evergreen 
mangrove  tree,  for  miles  along  the  shores,  which  forms 
an  impenetrable  barrier  to  large  boats,  and  at  the  same 
time,  forming  an  ambuscade  for  the  natives.  On 
many  of  the  islands,  I am  told,  are  large  forest  trees, 
in  great  variety.  Some,  I have  no  doubt,  would 
answer  for  ship  building,  and  also  for  houses.  Our 
Botanist  obtained  some  new  specimens  of  plants,  of 
considerable  value. 

The  climate,  at  the  time  that  we  were  there,  was 
remarkably  fine,  though  it  was  the  winter  months 
among  the  islands.  The  wind  is  said  to  blow  in 
gusts  from  the  south,  several  days  in  each  month ; 
during  these  gusts  it  is  cold  and  chilly — little,  or  no 
dew  at  night.  The  thermometer  ranged,  during  our 
stay  here,  from  70  deg.  to  87  deg. ; blankets  were  ac- 
ceptable at  night.  The  soil  is  rich  and  productive, 
and  requires  but  little  labor.  The  inhabitants  are 
naturally  indolent,  and  depend  mostly  upon  the  spon- 
taneous productions  of  the  islands  for  a subsistence. 
All  kinds  of  tropical  productions,  and  fruits,  grow 
spontaneously  in  great  abundance.  These  islands 
have  some  fine  specimens  of  birds ; some  of  them 
wear  the  richest  plumage  I ever  saw — particularly 
the  parrot  tribe.  The  quadrupeds  are  mostly  intro- 
duced by  foreigners ; cattle,  hogs,  and  turkeys  thrive 
well.  The  rat  is  the  only  wild  animal  that  they 
have.  Of  reptiles,  there  are  but  few — the  lizard  and 
snake  were  all  I have  seen  ; one  snake,  in  particular, 
“ a water  snake,”  was  worshiped  as  a spirit. 

In  1835,  two  Wesleyan  missionaries  came  to  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


137 


Fiji  Islands  from  Tongataboo,  and  since  that  time 
there  has  been  a reinforcement  of  them,  but  their 
prospects  are  rather  discouraging.  Whether  it  is 
from  the  nature  of  the  people  they  have  to  deal  with, 
or  from  other  causes,  I am  not  able  to  determine.  One 
thing  is  certain,  however,  which  is,  that  comparative- 
ly little  has  yet  been  accomplished.  In  reference  to 
their  education,  a beginning  simply  has  been  made* 
An  alphabet  has  been  formed,  a grammar  and  diction- 
ary have  been  printed,  together  with  a few  tracts. 

Polygamy  is  common  among  all  the  islands ; the 
chiefs  buy  as  many  wives  as  they  wish,  or  the  wives 
and  daughters  of  their  enemies,  when  taken,  are  kept 
as  wives,  or  slaves.  The  females  are  very  robust, 
and  female  children,  I observed,  are  very  numerous. 
The  whole  population  of  this  numerous  group  of  isl- 
ands has  been  estimated  by  residents  of  long  standing 
among  them,  at  200,000.  Women  are  in  great  de- 
mand at  many  of  the  islands,  and  most  of  the  wars 
are  occasioned  for,  and  about  women ; and  yet  they 
are  treated  in  a very  brutal  manner,  in  most  cases 
worse  than  the  slaves  of  Brazil,  and  obliged  to  per- 
form most  of  the  labor,  both  in  and  out  of  doors,  for 
the  support  of  the  family.  The  chiefs — and  there  are 
many  of  different  ranks  among  them — do  not  always 
succeed  the  father  in  his  rank. 

The  houses  of  the  natives  are  built  throughout  all 
the  islands  on  the  same  plan,  and  generally  construct- 
ed of  the  same  materials ; a foundation  of  stone  or 
coral  is  first  laid,  and  then  the  timber  for  sill  and  cor- 
ner posts,  then  the  rafters, — all  of  which  are  nicely 
fastened  together  with  cinct,  and  done  with  such  reg- 
ularity as  to  be  very  neat  and  beautiful,  when  there 
12* 


138 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


is  a variety  of  colors  displayed.  Then  comes  small 
rods  lashed  to  the  rafters,  on  which  the  grass  is 
thatched  from  the  top  to  the  bottom.  They  have  one 
or  two  doors,  very  small.  One  end  of  the  floor  is 
raised  and  covered  with  mats  of  several  thicknesses ; 
this  is  generally  screened  off  with  mats,  and  used  as 
their  sleeping  apartments ; and  at  the  other  end  is  a 
place  in  which  they  cook,  having  a pit  dug  and  lined 
with  stones,  which  will  contain  from  two  to  three 
cooking  jars;  over  this  is  a swinging  rack,  where 
they  keep  most  of  their  cooking  utensils. 

The  Bure , or  spirit  house,  is  constructed  with  great 
pains,  and  besides,  there  is  a temple  which  answers 
the  double  purpose  of  a town-house  for  public  meet- 
ings, and  to  entertain  strangers,  who  may  be  present. 
Many  of  the  chiefs  pass  the  greater  part  of  their  time 
in  the  Bure.  All  the  property  of  the  god  to  which 
the  house  has  been  dedicated,  is  kept  here ; this  con- 
sists of  presents  from  the  chiefs,  and  others,  who  have 
made  vows  to  the  gods  for  recovering  from  sickness, 
sp#eess  in  war,  and  destruction  of  their  enemies. 
These  presents  are  generally  made  use  of  by  the 
priest,  or  numbatal , who  look  well  to  their  own  inter- 
ests, as  a natural  consequence.  One  of  their  most  re- 
volting traits  of  character  is  Cannibalism ; these  na- 
tives, on  all  occasions,  prefer  human  flesh  to  that  of 
other  animals.  The  priest  of  Overlau  told  me  that  it 
was  not  for  revenge  that  they  kill  their  men  to  eat, 
but  merely  from  choice.  They  kill  them  either  by 
strangling,  or  knock  their  brains  out;  they  are  then 
bled,  after  which  the  intestines  are  taken  out  and 
washed.  A large  pit  is  dug,  and  the  stones,  wood 
and  banana  leaves,  are  all  brought ; after  the  whole 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


139 


has  become  ignited,  and  the  pit  sufficiently  heated, 
the  operation  of  cutting  up  the  body  is  commenced, 
which  is  generally  performed  by  the  one  who  kills 
him.  The  limbs  are  taken  off  according  to  certain 
rules, — first  the  right  foot  and  left  hand,  dismembering 
alternately,  until  the  whole  is  completely  cut  up. 
The  bones  and  limbs  are  then  wrapped  carefully  in 
banana  leaves,  put  into  the  pit  and  hot  stones  put 
over  them,  and  then  the  whole  is  covered  with  earth, 
there  remaining  for  eight  or  ten  hours,  and  if  it  is  a 
white  man,  he  is  not  eaten  until  the  next  day.  I was 
told  by  a white  man  who  has  resided  many  years 
among  them,  that  he  has  seen  on  the  island  of  Bau 
six  hundred  human  victims  cooked  and  eaten  in  one 
day,  after  a battle. 

Natives  of  the  Fijis,  or  Yiji  Islands,  taken  together, 
are  a wild,  ferocious  people,  and  to  judge  from  physi- 
ognomy, that,  “ Vultus  est  index  anime ,”  you  would 
set  them  down  as  a villanous  set  of  beings.  There  is 
considerable  variety  in  their  color,  from  the  mulatto 
to  the  negro;  their  hair  is  curly,  hard  and  crisp. 
They  are  generally  tall  and  well  formed.  Their 
heads  are  well  moulded,  have  high  foreheads,  large 
eyes,  wide  mouths,  fine  teeth,  and  most  of  them  have 
pleasing  countenances,  when  in  the  presence  of  stran- 
gers. I have  never  seen  a corpulent  Fiji  man  or  an 
obese  woman;  the  men  are  spare,  on  account  of  their 
roving  disposition,  and  the  women,  from  having  to  do 
all  the  laboring  work,  and  besides,  living  principally 
upon  a vegetable  diet.  It  is  uncommon  to  see  many 
of  them  who  have  lived  to  a good  old  age,  for  they 
often  destroy  their  old  and  infirm,  for  the  purpose  of 
avoiding  an  increase  of  labor  and  trouble  ! 


140 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


On  the  13th  of  May,  the  Peacock  sailed  for  an  ad- 
jacent island,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  it,  and  to 
endeavor  to  capture  a chief,  who  had  caused  the  mur- 
der of  the  chief  mate,  and  part  of  the  crew  of  the  brig 
Charles  Doggett,  in  1832. 

We  received  a visit  from  a white  man,  who  in- 
formed us  that  he  had  been  among  these  islands  for 
nearly  forty  years.  He  is  a native  of  Ireland,  by  the 
name  of  O’Connell.  He  stated  that  he  was  sent  to 
Port  Jackson  in  1800,  as  a convict,  and  by  some  mys- 
terious means  contrived  to  make  his  escape,  and  at 
which  time  he  joined  a privateer  which  touched  at 
one  of  these  islands ; from  this  he  deserted,  and  has 
remained  here  an  exile  from  home  ever  since.  He 
was  in  a perfect  state  of  nudity,  except,  like  the  na- 
tives, he  wore  a piece  of  tappa  about  the  loins. 
He  wore  his  hair  long,  and  also  his  heard,  hanging 
down  on  the  breast ; upon  the  whole  he  was  a miser- 
able looking  object. 

In  a short  time  after  his  departure,  we  received  in- 
formation that  Captain  Hudson,  in  the  Peacock,  had 
captured  the  chief,  who  was  the  cause  of  the  before- 
mentioned  murder.  From  a respectable  source,  Capt. 
Wilkes  learned  that  an  attack  on  the  observatory  was 
contemplated  by  the  natives  of  the  island,  to  which 
the  captured  chief  belonged.  The  object  of  the  na- 
tives was  to  secure  Capt.  Wilkes,  and  by  that  means 
make  an  exchange  of  prisoners.  He  immediately 
moved  on  board  the  ship,  leaving  the  observatory  in 
charge  of  Lieut.  Perry  and  Passed  Midshipman.  Eld. 
A reinforcement  of  marines  was  sent  on  shore  with 
twenty  seamen,  armed  and  equipped  for  any  emer- 
gency. The  ship  was  hauled  in  opposite  to  the  oh- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


141 


servatory  and  placed  with  springs  on  her  cables  so  as 
to  bring  the  guns  to  bear  on  each  side  of  it.  At  night 
the  guns  were  all  loaded,  the  tompkins  left  out,  the 
battle  lanterns  lighted  and  placed  between  the  guns, 
and  no  hammocks  allowed  to  hang  n^r  the  battery. 
The  night  passed  without  any  disturbance,  except  by 
a false  alarm,  caused  by  the  accidental  discharge  of 
the  musket  of  one  of  the  sentinels. 

On  the  18th  June,  David  Bateman,  formerly  a 
marine  belonging  to  the  Brig  Porpoise,  breathed  his 
last,  and  his  spirit  winged  its  way  to  unknown  re- 
gions above.  He  had  been  suffering  some  time  with 
phithisis  pulmonalis,  and  was,  when  removed  to  this 
ship,  very  weak  and  emaciated.  The  day  after  our 
arrival  here  he  was  removed  to  comfortable  quarters 
on  shore,  where  he  could  enjoy  more  quiet.  Every 
thing  had  been  done  for  him  that  could  be  thought  of 
by  the  surgeon;  but  alas  ! all  availed  nothing.  . A post 
mortem  examination  proved  that  his  disease  would 
have  baffled  the  skill  of  the  most  experienced  sur- 
geon, and  that  too,  under  any  circumstances,  however 
favorable.  The  same  evening  his  remains  were  de- 
posited  in  the  place  of  sepulchre,  in  a small  garden 
which  had  been  enclosed  by  Mr.  Breckenridge.  The 
corpse  was  followed  to  the  place  of  interment  by  the 
marine  guard  and  a party  of  seamen,  also  several  of 
the  officers.  The  beautiful  and  impressive  burial  ser- 
vice of  the  Meth.  Episcopal  church  was  read  by  Mr 
Waldron,  purser;  and  the  body  was  deposited  in  its 
final  resting-place.  He  was  buried  with  the  honors 
of  war.  Three  volleys  of  musketry  were  fired  over 
the  grave  by  the  marines ; the  earth  was  then  thrown 


142 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


on  and  the  grave  filled  up,  which  closed  the  melan- 
choly scene. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th,  the  observatory  was 
broken  up,  and  all  the  instruments  removed  on  board, 
preparatory  to  leaving  the  island.  At  10  o’clock,  all 
things  being  ready,  we  hove  up  our  anchor  and  bade 
adieu  to  our  friends  the  natives  of  Ovalau,  schooner 
in  company. 

On  the  same  evening  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  har  - 
bor of  Protection  Island,  a small,  uninhabited  island. 
This  island  is  situated  about  twenty -five  miles  from 
Ovalau,  is  about  ten  miles  in  circumference,  and  rises 
in  some  places  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  sea 
shore.  This  harbor,  like  that  of  Laboaka,  is  formed 
by  a coral  reef,  which  makes  out  from  the  island,  and 
sweeps  around  in  a curved  direction,  leaving  a nar- 
row, but  safe  passage.  The  island  is  thickly  covered 
with  wood,  and  the  acclivities  of  the  hills  richly  vari- 
egated with  shrubbery  and  vegetation. 

On  the  following  day,  we  got  underway  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Saba  Saba,  at  which  place  we  did  not  arrive 
until  the  1st  of  July,  though  the  distance  is  only  six- 
teen miles  : this  was  owing  to  a strong  head  current 
and  light  wind.  We  anchored  outside  of  the  reef, 
the  wind  being  too  light  to  venture  through  the  pas- 
sage, which  is  very  narrow,  and  has  a strong  current. 
During  the  evening  and  night  we  caught  some  very 
fine  fish,  among  which  were  found  one  or  two  new 
specimens. 

The  next  morning  we  got  underway  and  stood  in 
through  the  narrow  passage,  and  anchored  in  the 
inner  harbor,  about  one  mile  from  the  celebrated 
u boiling  springs.”  Captain  Wilkes  allowed  all  of  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


143 


men  to  visit  these  springs ; accordingly,  on  the  4th  of 
July,  all  the  men  that  could  he  spared  out  of  the  ship 
improved  the  proffered  recreation.  These  springs  are 
eleven  in  number,  situated  on  a level  plain  near  the 
beach,  with  a rivulet  running  through,  which  is  not 
at  all  affected  by  the  heat  from  the  springs; — the 
water  in  the  rivulet  being  perfectly  cool  and  of  an 
excellent  quality.  The  formation  of  these  springs  is 
certainly  volcanic,  and  confirms  me  in  the  belief  that 
all  these  islands  are  of  that  origin.  The  surface  of 
the  earth  every  where  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
springs  was  so  hot,  that  we  could  not  walk  on  it 
with  bare  feet.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was 
212  degrees.  The  natives  come  from  all  parts  of  the 
island  to  visit  these  springs,  particularly  when  any 
great  feast  is  to  be  held ; they  there  cook  their  food  in 
them.  One  of  them  is  considered  sacred,  and  is  used 
only  for  cooking  human  flesh.  The  surface  of  the 
ground  in  the  neighborhood  is  strewed  with  the 
bleached  bones  of  these  victims. 

July  12th.  Our  Launch  returned  from  a survey- 
ing cruise  among  the  islands,  in  charge  of  Lieut.  Per- 
ry. He  brought  with  him  Mr.  Knox  and  Mid. 
Thompson  and  the  crew  of  1st  cutter ; also  two  chiefs 
whom  they  had  taken  as  prisoners.  The  1st  cutter 
got  ashore  on  a reef  off  the  island  of  Sour  Laib,  and 
was  captured  by  the  natives  of  that  island;  and 
the  officers  and  crew  were  obliged  to  flee  to  the 
Launch  for  safety,  which  was  only  a short  distance 
from  them.  In  consequence  of  a strong  gale  which 
was  blowing  at  that  time,  and  the  dampness  of  the 
ammunition,  they  were  unable  to  prevent  the  cap- 
ture of  the  cutter.  Luckily  for  the  crew,  however, 


144 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


the  natives  busied  themselves  so  much  in  removing 
the  plunder,  that  they  did  not  interfere  with  their  es- 
cape, and  by  this  means  they  passed  unmolested  to 
the  Launch. 

Captain  Wilkes  immediately  made  preparations  for 
punishing  the  savages.  He  had  the  schooner  Flying 
Fish  fitted  out  and  manned,  together  with  the  launch 
and  six  or  eight  small  boats,  with  the  1st  cutter  of 
the  Peacock,  all  armed  and  manned.  At  4 o’clock  the 
same  evening,  all  those  who  were  to  take  part  in  the 
expedition  were  mustered  in  boats,  and  Captain 
Wilkes  joined  the  schooner;  shortly  after,  all  made 
sail  for  Sour  Laib,  a distance  of  about  sixteen  miles. 
The  wind  being  contrary,  they  did  not  arrive  at  their 
place  of  destination  until  10  o’clock  of  the  next  day. 
On  the  arrival  of  the  party,  Captain  Wilkes  went  on 
shore  with  a party  of  armed  men,  met  the  chief,  and 
by  means  of  an  interpreter  held  a parley  with  him,  in 
which  he  demanded  the  boat  and  all  of  the  property 
that  had  been  stolen  from  it.  The  chief  replied,  “ that 
it  was  a tradition  among  them  that  when  a boat  or 
canoe  was  cast  away  on  their  island,  that  they  had  a 
right  to  take  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  their  gods, 
to  whom  it  belonged.”  Captain  Wilkes  endeavored 
to  explain  to  him  the  impropriety  of  such  conduct, 
and  tried  to  make  him  understand  how  he  should  act 
in  such  cases ; but  to  this  he  seemed  to  pay  but  little 
attention,  and  gave  the  Captain  but  little  satisfaction. 
He  told  the  chief  that  if  the  property  was  not  imme- 
diately delivered  up,  he  should  commence  hostilities 
against  them  and  endeavor  to  desolate  the  island. 
To  this  the  chief  replied  very  carelessly,  u that  it  was 
not  in  his  power  to  restore  the  property,  as  it  was 


1 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE.  145 

scattered  over  the  whole  island,”  and  seemed  to  inti- 
mate that  he  should  not  try.  but  said  that  he  was 
willing  to  give  up  the  boat.  This  did  not  satisfy 
Captain  Wilkes ; therefore  he  ordered  the  men  to  re- 
pair to  the  schooner,  get  some  refreshments  and  rest 
a short  time,  for  they  were  much  fatigued,  not  having 
rested,  eaten  or  slept  during  the  night.  This  news 
was  received  with  enthusiastic  applause,  as  they 
wished  to  show  their  superiority  to  the  savages. 

Accordingly,  after  partaking  of  the  necessary  re- 
freshment, and  taking  a few  moments’  repose,  they  all 
left  the  schooner,  to  the  number  of  eighty  men.  Capt. 
Wilkes  lay  off  in  his  gig,  so  that  he  might  see  the  de- 
struction as  it  progressed.  The  party  on  shore  was 
commanded  by  Capt.  Hudson,  of  the  Peacock.  On 
the  approach  of  the  men,  the  natives  retreated,  and 
continued  to  recede  as  the  men  advanced  toward  the 
village,  until  they  took  up  their  position  about  three 
hundred  yards  from  the  village,  and  did  not  offer  the 
slightest  resistance  to  the  destruction  of  their  property. 

At  the  village  the  work  of  destruction  commenced 
by  setting  fire  to  their  houses,  destroying  their  tarro 
beds,  killing  their  hogs,  burning  up  their  yams  and 
yam  houses,  breaking  up  their  war  canoes,  and  in  fact 
destroying  every  thing  that  fell  in  their  way.  The 
natives  during  this  time  fired  a few  random  shots 
from  the  bushes  and  jungles,  but  no  injury  was  the 
consequence.  Several  ventured  to  peep  from  their 
hiding  places,  but  no  sooner  did  they  show  their  faces 
than  they  felt  the  deadly  power  of  our  rifles.  Sky- 
rockets were  thrown  in  among  them,  but  their  posi- 
tion was  so  secure  that  it  did  no  other  harm  than  to 
frighten  them.  This  it  did  effectually,  which  was  in- 
13 


146 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


dicatedby  their  loud  yells,  and  their  cry  of  “ curlew  l 
curlew  !!  curlew  III  ” spirits  ! spirits  !!  spirits  !!! 

After  seeing  the  town  burnt  down  and  the  work  of 
destruction  completed,  they  all  returned  to  their  boats, 
and  on  the  way  burned  another  small  town.  When 
the  men  had  all  embarked,  the  natives  ventured  from 
their  hiding  places,  came,  within  a short  distance  of 
the  boats,  and  fired  a few  random  shots.  But  they 
were  not  sufficiently  near  to  be  able  to  do  any  dam- 
age. 

The  Launch  did  not  arrive  in  time  to  partake  in 
the  affray,  she  having  got  aground  on  a coral  reef, 
and  did  not  get  off  until  late  in  the  evening.  The 
party  ventured  to  the  ship  about  midnight.  The 
next  morning  the  chief  of  Sandal  Wood  Bay  came  on 
board,  and  asked  for  the  two  prisoners  whom  the 
Launch  had  taken  at  Sour  Laib,  saying  that  they 
wanted  to  eat  them,  as  they  were  their  prisoners.  His 
request,  however,  was  not  granted. 

Sandal  Wood  Bay,  or  Miambore  Bay,  is  a well  pro- 
tected place  of  anchorage.  The  natives  are  rather 
more  diminutive  than  those  of  Ovalau,  and  of  a more 
ferocious  nature.  They  have  a custom  of  circumci- 
sion, similar  to  that  of  the  ancient  Jews,  and  none 
are  eligible  to  marry  until  they  have  passed  this  or- 
deal. This  operation  is  performed  at  the  death  of 
some  favorite  chief,  to  manifest  their  grief  at  his  loss. 
Another  of  their  horrible  customs  is  that  of  putting  to 
death  a number  of  the  favorite  wives  of  the  deceased, 
and  a number  of  the  male  relatives.  Some  of  the 
chiefs  have  twenty  wives,  and  those  who  are  his  fa- 
vorites in  this  world,  are  the  ones  chosen  to  afcorn- 
pany  him  on  his  passage  to  the  other  world.  I am 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


147 


told  that  so  great  is  their  desire  to  accompany  him, 
that  disputes  often  arise  between  them  to  know  who 
has  the  best  right  to  this  preferment. 

On  the  22d,  a melancholy  event  occurred  in  the 
death  of  the  third  mate  of  the  trading  ship  Leonidas, 
who  came  to  an  untimely  end  in  the  most  shocking 
manner.  While  the  Peacock  was  engaged  in  survey- 
ing the  harbor  of  Muthwater,  the  Leonidas  was  there 
at  anchor;  she  being  an  armed  vessel,  Captain  Hud- 
son requested  her  commander  to  assist  with  her  guns 
in  firing  to  measure  distances.  It  was  accordingly 
assented  to,  and  it  was  during  one  of  these  discharges 
that  the  accident  happened.  The  second  mate,  act- 
ing in  the  capacity  of  a gunner,  and  being  unac- 
quainted with  gunnery,  neglected  to  sponge  the  gun — 
consequently,  when  the  cylinder  was  put  in  and 
rammed  home,  when  in  the  act  of  priming,  the  pow- 
der which  he  was  pouring  in,  communicated  with  a 
spark  that  had  been  inadvertently  left  in  the  chamber, 
and  immediately  exploded,  at  the  same  time  catching 
fire  to  a cylinder  in  his  bosom,  which  ignited  at  the 
same  instant.  The  explosion  was  so  great  that  he 
was  literally  burned  from  head  to  foot, — even  the  hair 
was  completely  burned  from  his  head.  In  this  situa- 
tion he  was  removed  to  the  Peacock,  where  all  that 
surgical  skill  could  do  was  done  for  him.  He  lingered 
in  this  state  for  twenty  days,  most  of  the  time  depriv- 
ed of  reason,  and  suffering  the  most  excruciating  pain. 
He  was  interred  during  the  evening,  on  a point  near 
the  harbor.  A stone  was  placed  at  his  head  to  mark 
the  spot,  upon  which  a suitable  epitaph  was  engraved. 

After  finishing  our  survey  at  this  place,  we  em- 


148 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


barked,  intending  next  to  visit  the  Island  of  Muth- 
water. 

In  consequence  of  adverse  winds,  we  were  induced 
to  make  a short  stay  at  Tevia,  a small  island  about 
midway  between  Muth water  and  the  island  from 
which  we  had  just  embarked.  Here  we  recruited, 
and  became  acquainted,  to  some  extent,  with  the  na- 
tives. 

The  natives  of  this  island  are  very  numerous  and 
warlike,  and  possess  more  canoes  than  any  island  we 
had  visited  among  the  Fiji  group.  Hogs,  yams  and 
poultry  are  plenty  here.  We  saw  here  the  remains 
of  the  beche-le-mer  house  which  Captain  Eckelson, 
of  the  ship  Leonidas,  had  erected,  while  engaged 
here  in  curing  that  article.  This  is  also  remarkable  as 
the  place  where  the  chevalier  Dillon  had  an  engage- 
ment with  the  natives,  and  defeated  them  with  only 
a few  men.  When  the  Peacock  was  here  in  June 
last,  a canoe  came  alongside,  having  in  it  the  whole 
body  of  a roasted  man,  of  which  they  were  eating 
with  great  avidity.  Some  of  the  flesh  was  procured 
by  the  officers  and  saved  in  spirits  as  a specimen, 
also  the  skull  and  thigh  bones  were  procured. 

On  the  following  day  we  left  this  island,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Muthwater,  where  we  arrived  in  the  even- 
ing. The  Peacock  had  reached  this  harbor  before  us. 

The  town  of  Muthwater  is  very  large,  and  is  bet- 
ter protected  than  any  island  among  this  vast  group. 
The  town  is  built  on  a level  plain  at  the  foot  of  a 
very  high  hill,  and  is  quite  near  the  sea  shore.  These 
natives  possess,  in  an  eminent  degree,  the  art  of  pil- 
fering, and  are  by  no  means  scrupulous  in  converting 
to  their  own  use  any  property  they  may  happen  to 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


149 


find ; and  in  such  cases,  they  make  no  inquiry  about 
the  owner,  but  are  careful  to  conceal  what  they  have 
found.  Several  flags  belonging  to  the  Peacock  had 
been  stolen  from  the  reefs  in  the  harbor,  where  they 
were  placed  for  the  purpose  of  surveying.  Captain 
Hudson  demanded  of  Tuembooa,  the  king  of  Muth- 
water,  the  immediate  restoration  of  the  stolen  prop- 
erty ; and  in  case  they  were  not  returned  or  satisfac- 
tion given,  he  would  burn  his  town.  This  very 
much  frightened  Tuembooa,  for  he  had  already  heard 
of  our  doings  at  Sour  Laib,  and  had  learned  the 
deadly  power  of  our  guns.  He  promised  to  do  all  in 
his  power  to  obtain  them,  and  if  he  could  not,  he 
would  pay  double  the  value  of  them  in  any  produce 
which  the  island  afforded.  He  also  stated  that  it 
was  not  the  natives  of  his  town  who  had  committed 
the  theft,  but  the  mountainers,  over  whom,  he  assur- 
ed Capt.  Hudson,  he  had  no  control. 

July  31st.  Our  boats,  and  those  of  the  Peacock, 
returned  from  a surveying  cruise  among  the  leeward 
islands,  and  while  the  incidents  of  the  cruise  are  fresh 
in  my  memory,  I hasten  to  give  an  account  of  them. 

On  the  eventful  morning  of  the  24th  inst.,  at  day- 
light, we  sent  a party  on  shore  to  cook  a few  yams 
for  breakfast,  being  all  the  provisions  we  had  left. 
The  brig  and  schooner,  not  being  in  sight,  we  wished 
to  procure  a hostage  of  note  among  the  cannibals,  to 
hold  in  our  possession,  while  we  went  up  to  the 
town  to  trade ; we  knew  that  the  savages  here  were 
of  the  most  warlike  character,  and  were  the  dread  of 
all  the  neighboring  islands.  While  some  of  the  men 
were  cooking  the  yams,  Mr.  Underwood  and  myself 
went  along  the  beach  in  search  of  shells.  Mr.  U.  had 
13* 


150 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


a rifle,  and  1 had  a trade  hatchet.  We  walked  about 
half  a mile  from  the  place  where  the  men  were  cook- 
ing the  yams,  when  we  were  surprised  by  about 
forty  warriors,  led  by  the  eldest  son  of  the  king  of 
Malolo.  Mr.  U.  commenced  a conversation  with  the 
chief,  and  meantime  I listened  to  the  remarks  of  the 
natives,  as  I could  then  understand  some  of  their  lan- 
guage, though  they  were  not  aware  of  the  fact.  One 
said  that  he  would  have  my  shirt,  another,  my  pants, 
a third,  my  hands,  and  all  expected  some  part  of  my 
body  for  supper. 

After  some  conversation  with  Mr.  U.,  relative  to 
his  becoming  a hostage,  the  chief  left  him  for  a few 
moments,  to  consult  with  his  men,  and,  selecting  two 
large  warriors,  told  them  what  Mr.  U.  wanted  of  him. 
He  remarked  to  them  that  he  should  consent  to  go,  at 
the  same  time  saying  that  1,  probably,  should  be  or- 
dered to  conduct  him  to  the  boat.  He  instructed 
them  to  kill  me,  and  take  Mr.  U.  prisoner — whom 
they  supposed  to  be  a chief  among  us — and  by  that 
means  they  should  be  able  to  secure  our  numerous 
articles  of  trade,  in  exchange  for  him.  Knowing  the 
fact  that  they  never  fight  after  their  chief  is  slain,  I 
had  but  little  doubt  in  reference  to  his  safe  arrival  at 
the  boat,  should  he  be  delivered  into  my  hands. 

He  then  turned  to  Mr.  U.,  saying  that  he  was  ready 
to  go,  and  I was  ordered  to  conduct  him.  Taking 
his  right  hand  in  my  left,  we  started  for  the  boat.  On 
our  way  I showed  him  my  hatchet,  and  assured  him 
that  if  he  should  go  peaceably  to  the  boat,  I would 
present  it  to  him  after  our  arrival,  and  if  he  did  not,  / 
would  give  it  to  him  before  ! I asked  him  if  he  un- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


151 


dersfcood  me,  and  learned  that  he  did.  He  added  that 
we  white  men  were  bad  fellows. 

We  had  not  traveled  more  than  half  the  distance, 
when  I heard  a low  voice  from  behind,  informing  the 
chief  that  all  was  ready.  I was  not  at  a loss  to  di- 
vine their  intentions.  A moment  had  scarcely  elapsed 
ere  I had  prostrated  the  chief,  and,  placing  my  foot 
upon  his  neck,  threatened  his  life,  should  he  refuse  to 
drive  them  back.  After  some  hesitation,  and  finding, 
that  I was  resolute,  he  yielded,  and  was  permitted  to 
rise  and  continue  the  walk  to  the  boat.  He  soon, 
however,  manifested  a disposition  to  release  his  hand 
from  my  grasp — which,  as  I was  aware  of  his  inten- 
tions, might  have  been  too  cordial  to  be  'particularly 
agreeable. 

When  remonstrated  with  for  his  apparent  treach- 
ery, he  said  that  he  was  a good  man,  and  intended  to 
go  to  the  boat.  I replied  that  I was  a good  man,  too , 
and  that  I intended  that  he  should  go,  at  the  same 
time  increasing  the  “ sailor  grasp,”  until  he  was  satis- 
fied that  he  could  not  release  himself. 

We  then  hurried  to  the  boat.  1 gave  him  up  to  Mr. 
Alden,  and  was  then  sent  for  Mr.  U.,  and  we  returned 
together  to  the  boat.  The  men  soon  after  came  off 
with  our  breakfast,  and  at  the  same  time  the  Peacock’s 
first  cutter,  under  Lieut.  Emmons,  joined  us.  At  9 
o’clock,  A.  M.,  we  got  underway  in  the  Leopard,  tak- 
ing the  hostage  into  our  boat,  and  rowed  up  for  the 
town ; the  natives  came  round  us  as  we  struck  on 
the  reef  connecting  Malolo  Lib  and  Malolo  Lili,  and 
every  mark  of  treachery  was  apparent  in  their  coun- 
tenances. 

As  soon  as  the  boat  struck,  we  jumped  out,  leaving 


152 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


two  men  and  the  officer  to  guard  the  hostage ; the 
natives  came  rushing  round  us  with  a shout  of  tri- 
umph, and  filled  the  boat  to  its  utmost  capacity.  We 
attempted  to  draw  the  boat  over  the  reef,  but  our  ef- 
forts were  unavailing.  Knowing  that  they  were  fond 
of  music,  we  commenced  one  of  the  songs  that  are  fre- 
quently sung  in  the  merchant  service,  while  hoisting 
heavy  freight,  to  produce  uniformity  of  movement  by 
the  aid  of  the  music.  This  was  a beautiful  exempli- 
fication of  the  fact,  that  “ music  hath  charms  to  soothe 
the  savage  breast;”  for  no  sooner  had  we  entered 
into  the  spirit  of  the  music,  than  they,  one  by  one, 
joined  us,  and  ere  they  were  aware,  we  were  again 
on  our  loved  element.  How  great  must  have  been 
their  chagrin,  when  they  saw  that  they  had  been  dis- 
appointed in  their  repast  upon  human  flesh  ! 

In  accordance  with  their  tradition  in  reference  to 
such  as  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  get  upon  their  reefs, 
they  had  marked  us  as  their  victims.  So  great  was 
the  effect  of  the  music,  that  they  not  only  'permitted 
us  to  escape,  but  literally  aided  us  by  grasping  the 
rope,  and  attempting  to  sing  with  us,  although  their 
tune  differed  as  widely  from  ours  as  did  their  words. 
As  soon  as  the  boat  was  afloat,  some  of  us  reentered, 
and  induced  such  as  were  willing  to  do  so,  to  jump 
overboard;  and  such  as  were  not,  we  “hove”  over, 
and  taking  in  our  own  men,  we  went  around  to  the 
town  to  buy  our  provisions.  We  anchored  more  than 
a quarter  of  a mile  from  the  beach. 

A wide  flat  makes  out  from  the  beach,  and  the  tide 
being  low,  we  could  get  no  nearer  in  the  boat.  Mr. 
Underwood  had  a brace  of  pistols,  and  three  men 
had  rifles ; one  man  went  without  arms,  to  carry  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE.  - 


153 


box  of  trade.  The  natives  were  sitting  under  the 
shade  of  a tree,  and  to  its  branches  they  had  hung  all 
their  arms ; they  had  also  tied  two  pigs  to  it. 

The  king  was  fishing  when  we  reached  there,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  wait  for  him  before  we  could  com- 
mence a trade,  as  he  allowed  no  one  else  to  trade  with 
white  men.  When  he  came  we  found  him  a surly 
old  man,  apparently  about  fifty-five  years  of  age. 
His  eyes  were  sore,  and  he  wore  a white  cap  on  his 
head,  which  he  drew  partly  over  his  eyes  to  protect 
them  from  the  sun.  His  whole  appearance  was  mo- 
rose and  vicious,  and  he  wanted  four  times  as  much 
for  the  pigs  as  we  had  been  in  the  habit  of  giving  any 
where  else,  and  said  he  did  not  care  whether  we  took 
them  or  not.  Provisions  we  must  get  somewhere, 
and  Mr  U.  agreed  to  give  him  his  price.  Knowing 
that  the  natives  were  fond  of  music,  I sang  some  live- 
ly airs  for  the  king,  with  which  he  seemed  much 
pleased,  and  it  was  the  only  time  I saw  him  smile. 

One  of  the  pieces  sung,  was  a song  called  “ All  in 
the  Tonga  Islands,”  which  contains  the  following 
couplet : — 

“ They  said  they’d  cut  me  up  like  pork, 

And  eat  me  without  knife  or  fork.” 

The  king  having  obtained  some  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, by  trading  with  whalemen,  turned  to  some  of 
his  men,  and  said,  “ He  knows  that  we  are  going  to 
eat  him.  But  I determined  to  spoil  his  appetite  if 
possible,  before  he  sat  down  to  the  “mess,”  should  he 
attack  iis. 

Mr.  Alden  took  the  hostage  out  of  our  boat  into  his 


154 


UTGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


own,  as  soon  as  he  anchored,  and  Mr.  Henry,  a brave 
and  excellent  young  midshipman,  came  on  shore  from 
the  Launch,  armed  with  a bowie  knife  and  pistol ; 
when  he  came  up  to  us,  the  king  sent  several  men 
into  the  town  for  some  yams  and  fowls,  as  he  said. 
Shortly  after,  the  hostage  treacherously  jumped  out 
of  the  Launch  and  dashed  through  the  shallow  water 
for  the  shore.  With  a well-meant,  but  unappreciated 
forbearance,  a shot  was  fired  over  him,  to  induce  him 
to  come  back.  This  seemed  the  signal  for  the  work 
of  death  to  commence ; two  Indians  seized  my  rifle, 
and  attempted  to  take  it  from  me.  I drew  my  knife, 
and  asked  Mr,  Underwood  if  I should  give  it  up  or 
fight:  he  answered,  “ fight.”  I instantly  stabbed 
one,  and  he  knocked  the  other  senseless  with  a blow 
on  the  head  with  his  pistol.  John  D unnock  shot 
another.  As  this  was  going  on,  I saw  as  many  as 
forty  more  joining  the  throng  on  the  beach  from  the 
town  ; among  them  was  a man  with  a large  scar 
under  the  left  eye,  and  I knew  him  to  be  one  of  the 
men  whom  the  king  had  sent  to  the  town  for  yams 
and  fowls.  Some  of  the  men  fled  to  the  boat  on  the 
first  attack ; others  fired  their  rifles,  and  finding  it 
impossible  to  load  again,  followed  them.  Mr.  Under- 
wood, Mr.  Henry  and  myself,  were  all  that  remained 
to  fight  at  least  ninety  men.  The  air  around  our 
heads  was  literally  filled  with  clubs  and  spears. 
Hearing  an  Indian  shouting  Turanga , Turanga.  I 
knew  that  he  was  hailing  Mr.  Underwood,  and  turned 
to  see  what  he  wanted.  He  was  within  fifteen  feet  of 
us,  and  his  spear  was  quivering  in  his  hand ; the  next 
moment  Mr.  Underwood  would  have  been  transfixed 
by  it.  As  I raised  my  rifle  to  fire  at  him,  an  Indian 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


155 


sprang  out  with  a musket  from  behind  a tree,  and  I 
let  the  chief  throw  his  spear,  thinking  I could  parry 
it  off  with  my  rifle,  and  then  shoot  the  man  who  had 
the  musket.  The  chief  again  poised  his  spear  and 
darted  it;  my  ignorance  of  the  force  of  these  missiles 
very  nearly  cost  me  my  life.  It  came  like  a flash  of 
lightning,  struck  me  full  in  the  face,  tearing  my  upper 
lip  into  three  pieces,  loosening  my  upper  fore  teeth, 
and  glancing  out  of  my  mouth,  passed  through  the' 
left  arm  of  Mr.  U.  I shot  him  through  the  head,  and 
attempted  to  reload  my  rifle,  when  a man  ran  up  be- 
hind me  and  knocked  me  senseless,  for  the  moment, 
into  the  water.  This  wet  all  my  powder,  and  ren- 
dered my  rifle  useless  for  further  service ; falling  on 
my  face  the  water  instantly  brought  me  to  my  senses 
again.  A few  moments  after  Mr.  Henry  was  knocked 
down  by  a blow  from  a club  on  the  back  of  the  head. 
I saw  him  struggling  under  water,  and  tried  to  get  to 
him,  but  had  not  fought  half  way,  when  I was 
knocked  down  again,  and  as  I rose,  I received  another 
heavy  blow  between  the  shoulders.  Looking  round, 
I saw  Mr.  Underwood  lying  on  his  left  side,  resting 
on  his  left  hand  in  the  water,  and  holding  up  his  right 
to  parry  off  the  blows  of  a club,  which  a gigantic  sav- 
age was  flourishing  over  his  head;  the  blood  was 
streaming  from  his  mouth,  nose  and  ears.  I sprang 
up  behind  the  Indian  and  caught  him  by  the  throat, 
and  plunged  my  knife  three  times  into  his  bosom.  I 
then  stooped  down  and  tried  to  lift  Mr.  Underwood  out 
of  the  water.  He  spoke  once  distinctly : — “ Tell  her,57 
said  he,  u that  I loved  her  until  the  last  moment.5’ 
This  was  said,  probably,  in  reference  to  his  wife,  to 
whom  he  had  been  married  but  two  weeks  before  sail- 


156 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ing.  Soon  after  this,  his  eyes  flashed,  and  he  seemed 
for  a moment  to  recover  himself, — his  countenance 
gleaming  in  all  the  fierceness  of  the  war  spirit;  he 
tried  to  speak,  but  his  mouth  was  so  filled  with  blood 
that  I could  not  understand  what  he  wished  to  say. 
He  probably  saw  the  stealthy  approach  of  a savage, 
who  was  about  to  aim  a blow  at  my  head,  and  giving 
him  that  keen,  piercing  look  of  defiance,  in  the  last 
agonies  of  death,  he  wished  to  warn  me  of  my  dan- 
ger— for  the  next  moment  I experienced  a sensation 
similar  to  that  produced  by  the  report  of  a cannon 
near  one’s  head.  I recollect  this  distinctly,  and  re- 
member no  more,  as  I fell  senseless  into  the  water. 

How  long  I remained  in  that  situation  I do  not 
know  ; hut  when  my  senses  did  return,  the  noise  and 
hustle  of  the  fight  was  over.  I do  not  know  when  or 
how  I reached  the  boat,  nor  did  I know  anything  for 
several  days  afterward.  On  recovering  my  senses,  I 
learned  the  following  particulars.  Soon  after,  the 
first  cutter  opened  a fire  upon  them,  and  several  being 
killed,  they  all  retreated  to  the  bushes.  The  boats 
then  pulled  in,  and  took  possession  of  the  bodies  of 
Lieut.  Underwood,  and  Wilkes  Henry,  midshipman  ; 
they  had  been  stripped  entirely  naked,  and  dragged 
some  distance  on  the  beach,  with  the  expectation,  no 
doubt,  of  making  a hearty  meal  from  them. 

They  clubbed  and  speared  us  until  they  supposed 
that  there  could  he  no  life  in  us.  I afterward  arose 
upon  my  feet — being  perfectly  delirious — and  walked 
among  them,  talking,  laughing  and  singing,  which 
convinced  them  that  I was  a spirit.  In  consequence 
of  their  superstitious  dread  of  spirits,  they  offered  me 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


157 


no  further  violence.  In  this  condition  I was  taken 
into  the  boat  by  Lieut.  Alden. 

Since  the  above  was  written,  I have  been  favored 
with  an  interview  with  a gentleman  who  visited  the 
island  about  nine  months  afterward.  He  states  that 
during  his  stay  there  he  heard  the  natives  singing  a 
song  which  was  composed  in  consequence  of  this  mel- 
ancholy encounter.  In  this  they  refer  to  some  one  as 
a “ spirit  man  ” who  conducted  quite  singularly  after 
having  been  slain.  They  affirm  that  they  cut  off  my 
head,  which  of  itself  resumed  its  former  place,  and 
that  I went  around  and  gathered  up  my  hands  and 
feet  which  had  been  severed  from  my  body,  and  ad- 
justed them  properly,  where  they  soon  became  as 
fixed  and  permanent  as  they  were  previous  to  their 
dismemberment,  and  afterward  laughed  at  them. 

During  this  time  I had  been  placed  in  the  “ stern 
sheets  ” of  the  boat,  and  covered  with  the  American 
Flag,  to  protect  me  from  the  scorching  heat  of  the 
vertical  sun.  My  wounds  were  so  numerous  and  se- 
vere that  no  one  expected  me  to  survive  but  a short 
time.  But  why  I was  thus  almost  miraculously  pre- 
served, is  known  only  to  the  great  Disposer  of  events. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  schooner  was 
seen  at  anchor.  When  coming  so  near  to  the  schoon- 
er that  the  boat’s  ensigns  could  be  seen,  they  were 
set  at  half  mast  in  token  of  some  accident  having 
befallen  them.  The  signal  was  no  sooner  perceived 
from  the  schooner  than  she  was  got  underway  and 
stood  down  to  meet  them.  Capt.  Wilkes  and  Passed 
Midshipman  Eld  were  on  shore  at  the  time,  making 
observations ; and  perceiving  the  schooner  underway, 
and  shortly  afterwards  the  boats  coming  with  their 
14 


158 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ensigns  at  half  mast,  they  immediately  struck  their 
tent  and  pulled  for  the  schooner,  where  they  arrived  a 
little  before  the  boats.  When  the  boats  came  along- 
side, Captain  Wilkes  anxiously  inquired  what  the 
matter  was,  and  when  informed  that  Lieut.  Under- 
wood and  Mid.  Wilkes  Henry  had  been  murdered, 
he  sprang  toward  the  bodies  and  fainted.  He  was 
taken  in  this  state  to  the  cabin  of  the  schooner,  and  re- 
mained in  this  senseless  condition  for  fifteen  minutes, 
before  he  was  resuscitated.  In  the  mean  time,  the  bo- 
dies were  removed  from  the  boat,  and  placed  on  the 
quarter,  under  the  cover  of  tarpaulins,  while  I was 
taken  to  the  berth  deck.  By  this  time  Capt.  Wilkes 
recovered  a little  and  returned  upon  deck,  but  no 
sooner  saw  the  bodies,  than  he  fell  in  the  same  state 
from  which  he  had  just  before  recovered.  On  coming 
to  again,  he  cried  and  moaned  in  the  most  pitiable 
and  melancholy  manner. 

Mr.  Henry  was  his  nephew  and  the  only  son  of  a 
widowed  sister,  and  from  whom  he  had  taken  him 
away.  The  bodies  were  kept  until  the  following  day, 
during  which  time  Mr.  Agate,  artist,  succeeded  in  get- 
ting a very  correct  likeness  of  them  both  for  their 
friends  at  home.  After  which  they  were  sewed  up 
in  separate  hammocks,  and  taken  on  shore  to  a small 
uninhabited  island,  where  both  of  them  were  interred 
in  the  same  grave.  “ They  were  lovely  and  pleasant  in 
their  lives,  and  in  death  they  were  not  divided,”  2d 
Samuel  1 : 23. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


159 


CHAPTER  XI. 


The  Punishment  for  the  Murders — Funeral  Services  of  the  Mur- 
dered— Departure — Gardener’s  Island — Recollections  of  Home 
— Arrival  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Honolulu — Common  Peo- 
ple. 

u E’en  the  favored  isles. 

So  lately  Found,  although  the  constant  sun 
Cheers  all  their  seasons  with  a grateful  smile, 

•Can  boast  but  little  virtue  ; and,  inert 
Through  plenty,  lose  in  morals  what  they  gain 
In  manners — victims  tt)  Insurious  ease.” 

Captain  Wilkes  named  this  island  11  Henry’s  Isi- 
land”  and  “ Underwood’s  Group.”  Three  volleys  of 
musketry  were  then  fired  over  the  grave,  which  closed 
the  scene  ; after  which  they  all  returned  to  the  schoon- 
er to  premeditate  on  the  means  to  be  adopted  for  the 
revenge  of  their  deaths.  The  plan  was  arranged  in 
the  following  manner.  The  boats  were  sent  to  row  a 
guard  around  the  island  to  prevent  the  escape  of  any 
of  the  natives,  and  to  stop  any  from  joining  them 
from  other  islands. 

They  eruised  all  that  night,  until  light  the  next 
morning,  when  three  large  canoes  were  seen  making 
for  the  island.  Lieutenant  Emmons  in  the  Peacock’s 
1st  cutter,  made  sail  and  went  in  chase  of  them ; 
when  coming  within  gun  shot,  he  gave  them  a broad- 
side, each  canoe  in  succession,  which  soon  stopped 
their  headway.  All  the  canoes  were  destroyed  and  the 
natives  killed,  except  two,  one  man  and  one  woman  ; 
the  man  was  taken  prisoner,  but  the  woman  was  al- 


160 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


lowed  to  swim  ashore.  The  same  morning  the  men 
were  landed  from  the  brig  Porpoise  (she  having  joined 
them  the  day  before)  the  men  of  the  boats  and 
schooner  amounting  to  nearly  one  hundred.  On 
landing,  they  were  divided  in  three  divisions ; Capt. 
Ringgold  commanded  the  whole  party  and  led  the  1st 
in  person.  The  2d  division  was  under  Lieut.  John- 
son, and  the  3d  under  Lieut.  Maury.  After  des- 
troying the  plantations  of  bananas,  tarro  and  yam 
beds,  breaking  up  their  war  canoes  and  literally  de- 
stroying every  thing  that  fell  in  their  way,  and  hav- 
ing arrived  within  sight  of  their  principal  towns,  the 
2d  and  3d  divisions  halted,  while  the  division  under 
Captain  Ringgold  marched  forward  to  reconnoiter  the 
town.  On  their  arrival  they  found  the  town  much 
larger  than  they  expected  and  better  fortified,  and  ap- 
peared to  he  strongly  defended.  The  principal  chief 
came  out  armed  with  a spear,  and  drew  himself  up 
in  all  the  pride  of  self  consequence,  and  gave  himself 
a thousand  savage  ostentatious  airs.  He  challenged 
our  little  party  to  proceed,  he  was  ready  for  them, 
and  he  intended  to  have  a white  man  for  his  supper. 
This  consequential  savage  little  dreamed  that  a rein- 
forcement of  the  enemy  was  so  near  at  hand,  and 
knew  but  little  of  the  effects  and  deadly  power  of  the 
enemy’s  weapons,  that  were  so  shortly  to  be  brought 
against  them. 

The  town  was  fortified  by  upright  posts  sunk  in 
the  ground,,  and  the  bottom  part  walled  in  with 
stones ; and  between  the  posts  in  the  top  part,  spaces 
were  left  open,  through  which  to  shoot  their  arrows 
and  throw  their  clubs.  The  whole  was  entrenched 
around  with  a ditch  eight  feet  wide  and  five  or  six 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


161 


deep,  in  the  bottom  of  which  were  an  abundance  of 
spears.  Behind  this  fortification  they  had  defied  all 
the  combined  Fiji  armies,  and  had  been  many  times 
attacked  by  their  enemies,  but  had  always  come  off 
victorious,  which  circumstance  inspired  them  with 
much  confidence  in  their  own  strength  and  prowess. 
After  the  chief  had  come  out  and  delivered  his  chal- 
lenge, he  returned  behind  the  fortification  and  com- 
menced making  vigorous  efforts  to  defend  the  towii 
by  filling  up  the  interstices  that  would  admit  ingress. 
Capt.  Ringgold,  seeing  the  strength  and  determina- 
tion of  the  enemy  which  he  had  to  contend  against, 
made  signals  for  the  two  remaining  divisions  to  join 
him. 

After  the  force  had  concentrated,  they  formed  a 
line,  and  marched  up  to  the  entrenchment  in  good 
order,  under  a heavy  shower  of  arrows.  The  natives 
continued  to  throw  out  the  spears  and  arrows  in  great 
profusion,  but  with  little  judgment.  Two  of  our 
men  were  slightly  wounded,  one  in  the  thigh  and  the 
other  in  the  leg.  The  natives  labored  under  a dis- 
advantage which  rendered  their  breast-work  almost 
useless;  they  could  not  throw  their  spears  without 
exposing  the  whole  upper  portion  of  their  bodies,  and 
in  such  cases  almost  instantly  met  their  fate  from  our 
rifles.  Several  rockets  were  thrown  in  at  the  onset 
with  the  hope  of  setting  fire  to  their  town,  but  they 
did  not  take  effect.  A volley  of  musketry  was  fired 
at  them  by  each  division  in  succession ; this  had  good 
effect,  upwards  of  fifteen  falling  at  each  volley.  The 
natives  having  become  more  bold,  showed  themselves 
in  greater  numbers  above  the  breastwork,  but  after 
this  deadly  fire  they  became  more  intimidated,  and 
14* 


162 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


retreated  behind  their  houses.  Rockets  were  again 
thrown  in,  but  with  no  better  success  than  at  the 
former  attempt.  The  contest  had  been  kept  up  for 
more  than  an  hour,  when  the  “ Turanga  Laib ” 
principal  chief,  was  killed  by  a rifle  ball,  which  cir- 
cumstance struck  a panic  through  them  immediately, 
and  what  few  there  were  remaining,  fled  to  the  back 
part  of  the  town ; some  few  made  their  escape,  while 
many  were  shot  in  their  retreat.  They  left  their 
dead  and  wounded  behind,  to  be  consumed  in  the 
flames.  At  this  time  another  rocket  was  thrown  in 
and  lodged  upon  the  top  of  one  of  their  thatched 
houses,  which  soon  ignited,  and  in  a short  time  the 
whole  village  was  wrapped  in  flames ; and  only  a few 
moments  elapsed  before  the  village  was  burned  to  the 
ground. 

After  the  flames  had  sufficiently  subsided,  a party 
of  our  men  entered,  but  found  nothing  save  the  dead 
and  wounded.  The  number  killed  could  not  be  cor- 
rectly ascertained — as  many  had  been  buried  in  the 
flames  and  were  consumed — but  the  number  must 
have  been  considerably  large.  The  men  refreshed 
themselves  with  cocoa-nuts  and  cocoa-nut  milk,  and 
rested  a few  moments,  after  which  they  marched  over 
the  hills  to  the  back  of  the  island,  where  there  was 
another  small  town ; — but  on  their  arrival  they  found 
that  Captain  Wilkes,  with  his  boat’s  crew,  had  burnt 
it  early  in  the  morning.  The  whole  party  then  em- 
barked and  proceeded  to  the  brig  and  schooner,  where 
a comfortable  night’s  repose  was  very  acceptable,  fol- 
lowing as  it  did,  a day  of  fatigue,  slaughter  and  blood- 
shed. The  next  morning  a woman  came  to  the 
beach  and  hailed  the  vessel,  holding  up  a pistol  and 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


163 


Mr.  Underwood’s  cap  and  a rifle.  Capt.  Wilkes  went 
on  shore,  taking  with  him  the  interpreter,  and  had 
some  conversation  with  her.  She  stated  that  the  few 
warriors  who  were  left  alive  on  the  island  had  sent 
her  to  treat  for  peace  on  any  terms  he  might  think 
proper  to  propose,  and  in  their  name  she  solicited  his 
forgiveness.  Captain  Wilkes  told  her  to  tell  them  to 
assemble  on  the  hill  at  10  o’clock,  and  that  he  would 
meet  them  and  hear  what  they  had  to  say. 

Accordingly,  at  the  appointed  time  Captain  Wilkes, 
taking  with  him  all  the  men  who  had  been  on  shore 
the  previous  day,  embarked  in  the  boats  and  proceed- 
ed to  the  shore.  On  landing,  the  men  were  formed  in- 
to a hollow  square,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the  van- 
quished warriors.  They  did  not  come  at  the  appoint- 
ed time,  however,  and  Captain  Wilkes  sent  the  pris- 
oner, who  had  been  taken  by  Mr.  Emmons,  in  the 
boat,  to  tell  them  to  come  immediately  or  he  would 
renew  hostilities  and  destroy  the  remaining  portion. 
In  a few  moments  they  were  seen  moving  slowly  up 
the  acclivity  of  the  hill,  crawling  on  their  hands  and 
knees;  when,  coming  up  where  our  men  were  sta- 
tioned, they  prostrated  themselves  at  their  feet  in 
open  submission.  Thus  were  these  treacherous  sav- 
ages brought  low,  and  made  to  know  their  own 
weakness.  They  brought  as  an  offering  to  Captain 
Wilkes  three  girls,  from  the  ages  of  12  to  16,  as  they 
said, — the  handsomest  that  could  be  found  on  the  isl- 
and; these  were  intended  as  an  offering  of  peace. 
This  offer,  of  course,  was  refused,  but  the  Captain 
told  them  he  wished  to  let  them  know  the  impropri- 
ety of  their  conduct,  and  that  the  terms  on  which  he 
should  make  peace  were,  that  they  should  promise 


164 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


never  to  be  guilty  of  another  like  act.  To  this  the 
chief  of  the  party  replied,  that  they  knew  they  were 
placed  in  the  same  position  with  guilty  ones,  but 
they  assured  the  captain  that  none  of  the  party  then 
present  was  engaged  in  the  murder  of  the  two  officers, 
and  all  that  were,  were  killed  in  the  fight,  or  perished 
in  the  flames  of  the  town.  When  they  were  informed 
that  not  one  of  our  men  was  killed,  or  seriously  in- 
jured in  the  fight,  they  were  much  surprised,  and  ex- 
claimed in  a loud  voice,  “ Curlew,  curlew,  curlew  !” 
meaning,  as  I afterwards  learnt,  that  we  were  all 
spirits. 

After  the  treaty  was  concluded  the  men  were  all 
discharged,  and  returned  to  the  brig  and  schooner, 
where  they  all  remained  until  the  following  day, 
when  they  returned  by  the  boats  to  their  respective 
ships. 

Captain  Wilkes  remained  in  the  schooner  with  the 
intention  of  visiting  Somo  Somo  and  Cartab,  and 
from  thence  to  join  the  ship  Yincennes  at  Muthwater. 

The  same  boats  brought  information  of  the  demise 
of  William  Smith,  seaman,  who  came  to  an  untimely 
end  in  a mysterious  manner. 

The  officers  had  been  on  shore,  leaving  the  vessel 
in  the  charge  of  two  seamen,  one  of  whom  was 
Smith.  Soon  after  their  departure  Smith  proposed  to 
go  into  the  cabin  and  pilfer  some  of  the  spirits  which 
the  officers  had  in  charge.  To  this,  however,  his 
companion  did  not  consent.  When  Smith  was  as- 
sured that  the  theft  would  not  be  divulged  by  his 
shipmate,  he  went  alone  and  drank  a large  quantity, 
by  which  he  was  much  intoxicated.  During  the 
watch  on  the  following  night,  Smith  was  unable  to 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


165 


attend  to  the  duties  assigned  him,  and  was  found 
asleep  by  one  of  the  officers.  He  was  reproved  for 
this  conduct,  and  while  under  the  influence  of  the 
dram,  he  attacked  the  officer,  when  a scuffle  ensued, 
and  both  fell  overboard.  The  officer  recovered  him- 
self and  regained  the  deck,  but  Smith  could  not  be 
rescued. 

The  foregoing  facts  were  not  made  known  at  the 
time  of  his  decease,  and  there  was  an  air  of  mystery 
connected  with  his  sudden  death.  I have  since  ob- 
tained them  from  one  who  was  on  board  at  the  time 
of  the  fatal  encounter.  I am  not  aware  that  any 
blame  can  be  attached  to  the  officer. 

On  the  morning  of  Aug.  2d,  the  king  of  Muth water, 
Tuembooa,  sent  us  some  hogs  and  yarns  as  a com- 
pensation for  the  whole  number  of  flags  stolen  from 
the  reefs  by  the  natives.  At  the  same  time  he  in- 
formed Captain  Hudson  that  he  had  endeavored  to 
recover  the  flags,  but  found  it  utterly  impossible ; he 
expected  that  they  had  been  destroyed. 

A signal  was  made,  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  for 
all  the  officers  and  men  that  could  be  spared  from 
each  ship,  to  repair  to  the  Vincennes,  to  attend  the 
funeral  service  of  Lieut.  Underwood  and  Mid.  Wilkes 
Henry,  who  were  so  treacherously  murdered  by  the 
natives  of  Malolo.  At  half  past  10  o’clock  the  service 
commenced.  All  was  hushed  and  still ; a death-like 
silence  pervaded  the  ship  throughout,  and  a deep  mel- 
ancholy seemed  apparently  visible  on  the  countenan- 
ces of  all,  particularly  among  the  officers ; and  all, 
both  men  and  officers,  listened  with  an  unusual  at- 
tention to  the  solemn  and  impressive  service.  The 
chaplain  took  for  his  text : — “ Boast  not  thyself  of  to- 


166 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


morrow,  for  thou  knowest  not  what  a day  may  bring 
forth,”  Prov.  27  : 1.  “It  is  even  as  a vapor  that  ap- 
peareth  for  a little  time  and  then  vanishes  away,” 
James  4:  14.  After  he  had  finished  the  sermon,  he 
delivered  a very  flattering  eulogium  on  the  lives  and 
character  of  the  two  officers. 

In  the  afternoon  a signal  was  made  to  get  under- 
way, and  proceed  to  Mali,  a distance  of  about  twelve 
miles.  We  came  to  anchor  about  three  miles  from 
the  village,  which  we  found  deserted  and  the  canoes 
all  hauled  up  and  hid  among  the  bushes.  The  na- 
tives were  getting  very  shy  of  us  since  the  news  of 
the  destruction  of  Soui  Laib  and  Malolo  had  spread 
among  the  islands. 

The  land  here  rises  to  a moderate  height,  and  the 
ground  presents  every  where  a rich  soil.  The  shore 
is  handsomely  variegated  with  different  kinds  of 
shrubbery  and  plants.  At  a little  distance  from  the 
shore  may  be  seen. groves  of  cocoa-nut  trees  and  bread- 
fruit, among  which  the  habitations  of  the  natives  are 
tastefully  erected,  under  the  wide-spreading  branches 
of  the  trees.  The  houses  are  constructed  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  the  neighboring  islands.  In  the 
middle  of  the  village  stands  conspicuous,  a building 
of  a spiral  shape,  much  larger  than  any  of  the  rest, 
and  handsomely  decorated  with  shells  of  different 
kinds  and  colors.  This  is  their  Buri , or  spirit  house, 
in  which  they  hold  all  their  public  meetings  and  Can- 
nibal feasts ; and  also  entertain  strangers,  besides  per- 
form their  religious  ceremonies.  We  had  no  commu- 
nication with  the  natives  of  this  village,  owing  to 
their  shyness. 

The  formation  of  the  island  is  a complete  mass  of 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


167 


coral,  with  little  or  no  vegetation.  Great  numbers  of 
birds  of  the  aquatic  species  were  found  upon  it ; and 
so  tame  were  they,  as  to  be  captured  with  clubs. 
After  having  completed  the  survey  on  this  island,  we 
hoisted  up  the  boats  and  made  sail, — steering  to  the 
southward,  for  the  purpose  of  trying  the  dipping 
needle. 

At  meridian,  on  the  20th  of  August,  we  discovered 
another  island,  or  sand  bank.  This  is  claimed  as  a 
discovery  by  Capt.  Wilkes,  as  it  is  not  found  on  any 
chart, — and  named  by  him  McKean’s  Island,  after  the 
man  who  discovered  it. 

Our  stay  at  Gardener’s  Island  was  very  short,  as  it 
was  also  at  several  less  important  islands  which  we 
made  on  our  passage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This 
fact  was  interesting  to  many  of  us,  in  consequence  of 
the  approach  of  the  expiration  of  our  term  of  service. 
Many  cherished  the  fond  anticipation  that  on  our  ar- 
rival at  Oahee,  they  should  be  sent  to  their  loved 
homes.  Home  ! there  is  a magic  charm  in  that  word, 
appreciated  only  by  those  who  have  been  long  re- 
moved, far,  far  from  its  hallowed  associations.  And 
if  I mistake  not,  the  young  man, — his  bosom  throb- 
bing in  all  the  glow  of  youthful  buoyancy  and  viva- 
city, cradled  on  the  heaving  bosom  of  the  mighty 
ocean — can  respond  to  ennobling  sentiments  as  its  re- 
membrances pass  in  review.  His  bosom  beats  with  a 
quicker  pulsation,  as  fancy  recalls  the  prayers  of  a 
fond,  unchanging  mother,  or  the  warm  affection  of  a 
sister.  Indeed,  I have  but  little  hope  of  the  sailor  who 
loves  not  the  very  place  that  gave  him  birth,  with  the 
sunny  recollections  of  childhood’s  home.  There  is 
but  little  hope  of  reform,  when  the  friends  of  one’s 


168 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


youth  are  spurned,  his  home  avoided,  and  the  remem- 
brance of  the  hallowed  scenes  of  the  family  altar, 
where  morning  and  evening  a sacred  incense  arose  to 
high  heaven,  from  a humble  group  bowed  in  rever- 
ence ; when  such  scenes,  I say,  are  ridiculed,  the  prob- 
ability of  a return  from  the  paths  of  vice  is  extremely 
precarious. 

At  6 o’clock,  A.  M.,  Sept.  20th,  we  made  the  Island 
of  Onehow,  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  about  ten 
leagues  distant.  By  the  24th,  we  had  succeeded  in 
beating  up  to  the  bar  off  Honolulu,  and  came  to 
anchor  about  6 o’clock  in  the  morning.  We  were 
visited  by  Mr.  Reynolds,  P.  A.  Brinsmaide,  Esq., 
American  consul,  and  several  other  American  resi- 
dents here.  We  lay  here  until  the  following  morning, 
when  a number  of  boats  from  the  shore,  and  several 
from  whale  ships  in  the  harbor,  came  out  to  assist  in 
towing  us  over  the  bar,  and  up  to  the  town,  according 
to  a general  custom  here.  By  8 o’clock,  we  had  the 
ship  hauled  close  into  the  Consul’s  wharf,  and  safely 
moored. 

In  the  afternoon,  all  hands  were  called  aft  under 
the  half  deck,  when  Captain  W ilkes  informed  them 
that  he  wished  to  reenter  them  for  eighteen  months 
longer,  and  at  the  same  time  saying,  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  get  through  with  the  work  sooner.  Those 
who  chose  to  remain  were  to  have  three  months’  pay 
and  two  weeks’  liberty;  those  who  did  not,  should 
have  only  three  days’  liberty.  Those  who  reentered 
were  to  have  one  quarter  more  pay.  Yery  few  seemed 
willing  to  make  any  change  in  their  plans  on  this  oc- 
casion, but  on  the  following  day  they  commenced  put- 
ting their  names  down,  and  taking  the  liberty. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


169 


The  Bay  of  Honolulu  is  not  more  than  half  a mile 
long,  and  a quarter  broad,  but  deep,  and  perfectly 
safe.  Its  western  side  is  lined  by  marshes  and  fish 
ponds  of  artificial  workmanship,  stretching  north- 
ward, till  they  reach  a small  river  at  the  head  of  the 
harbor,  by  which  the  congregated  waters  from  the 
mountains  are  poured  into  the  sea.  The  town  of 
Honolulu  lies  on  a point  formed  by  the  eastern  side  of’ 
this  river,  and  the  curvature  of  the  beach,  as  it  sweeps 
again  towards  the  sea,  and  presents  to  the  view  some 
tolerably  well  built  houses  near  the  beach.  The  first 
is  the  consul’s,  a building  of  coral  and  mud,  and  seve- 
ral wooden  buildings  in  the  same  enclosures,  used  as 
warehouses;  the  first  is  used  as  a store,  and  the  place 
of  his  office.  The  consul’s  residence  is  in  the  middle 
of  the  village.  It  is  a wooden  building  of  a moderate 
size,  with  covered  verandas  and  Venetian  blinds.  To 
it  is  attached  a beautiful  yard,  covered  with  green 
grass,  and  richly  variegated  with  shrubbery, — the 
whole  enclosed  with  a mud  wall.  In  the  same  yard 
is  another  respectable  building,  used  as  an  apothecary 
shop  below,  and  a billiard  room  above.  Immediately 
behind  and  around  these  buildings,  are  to  be  seen  the 
thickly  crowded  and  irregularly  built  huts  of  mud 
and  straw — the  habitations  of  a population  of  about 
five  thousand  natives ; and  beyond,  are  the  beautiful, 
cultivated  valleys  of  the  interior,  enclosed  by  moun- 
tains of  great  height  and  wildness. 

Diamond  Hill,  as  you  enter  the  bay,  has  a beauti- 
ful, majestic  and  romantic  appearance  ; it  is  the  prin- 
cipal point  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  • It  is  the 
crater  of  an  extinguished  volcano,  the  mere  shell  of  a 
decapitated  mountain,  whose  bowels  have  been  ex- 
15 


170 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


hausted  by  fire.  It  is  of  a circular  form,  and  rises  al- 
most perpendiculaly  several  hundred  feet.  Its  sides 
every  where  look  like  seared  walls,  and  are  fluted 
and  furrowed  from  top  to  bottom  by  the  washing  of 
water  courses,  as  if  by  artificial  workmanship.  They 
also  are  surrounded  in  many  places  by  a kind  of 
moulding  of  equally  singular  formation,  and  again, 
by  blocks  and  piles  of  jagged  lava,  having  in  their  el- 
evation, the  appearance  of  the  parapets  and  battle- 
ments of  a dilapidated  castle.  A more  unique  object 
can  scarcely  be  imagined. 

Honolulu  is  the  Kanaka  name  of  the  seaport  town 
of  the  Island  of  Oahu,  and  is  an  excellent  and  con- 
venient harbor  for  ships  bound  to  and  from  the  East 
Indies  round  Cape  Horn.  It  affords,  also,  a conven- 
ient recruiting  station  for  whalemen  while  prosecuting 
the  arduous  duties  of  their  useful  and  lucrative  busi- 
ness among  the  monsters  of  the  great  deep,  in  the 
boundless  expanse  of  the  Pacific.  This  island  is,  like 
all  the  rest  of  the  group,  evidently  of  volcanic  origin. 
Several  craters,  now  dormant,  are  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Honolulu.  An  extensive  tract  of  table  land 
stretches  along  this  side  of  the  island,  for  several  miles 
in  length,  and  about  a mile  in  width.  This  tract  is 
cultivated,  and  produces  an  abundance  of  tarro  and 
sweet  potatoes.  All  kinds  of  melons  are  growing 
spontaneously  on  the  high  land,  back  of  the  plain. 
Here  and  there  are  small  groves  of  cocoa-nut  trees. 
A few  hamlets  of  the  thatched  houses  of  the  natives 
are  also  rising  among  the  herbage,  resembling  hay- 
stacks in  their  appearance,  and  occasionally  the  resi- 
dences of  the  missionaries  are  seen  situated  in  the 
midst  of  beautiful  gardens,  and  shaded  with  such  trees 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


171 


as  are  best  adapted  to  shade.  Some  of  the  mission- 
aries cultivate  a large  tract  of  land  by  native  labor, 
which  no  doubt  is  of  the  first  importance  to  them,  as 
they  can  there  learn  the  art  of  agriculture,  in  the 
knowledge  of  which  there  is  a very  great  deficiency 
among  the  islanders. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Cook,  whose  residence  is  located  on 
the  banks  of  Pearl  River,  a few  miles  from  its  mouth, 
is  one  of  these  farming  missionaries,  and  from  what  I 
saw,  I should  judge  he  was  very  much  beloved  by  the 
natives. 

The  banks  of  Pearl  River,  about  one  mile  from  the 
sea,  is  a mass  of  fossils.  Among  the  collection  of 
shells,  are  to  be  found  large  quantities  of  oyster  shells, 
like  those  of  our  own  country,  but  none  of  the  species 
are  to  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  group.  At  what 
period  these  oysters  grew  here,  is  not  known. 

To  the  mind  of  the  candid  traveler,  the  town  of 
Honolulu  exhibits  in  its  appearance  much  that  is  in- 
teresting. One  may  see  a plain  delineation  of  the  ef- 
fects of  the  missionary  labor  there.  The  people  in 
their  dwellings,  their  manners  and  their  dress,  are  liv- 
ing epistles  of  the  good  effects  of  missionary  labor. 
Those  who  have  had  the  longest  residence  in  the 
town,  live  on  Main  Street,  in  fine,  large,  framed 
houses,  painted  white,  many  of  them  with  green 
blinds,  enclosed  in  neat  picket  fences.  The  occupants 
of  these  buildings  dress  like  Americans  or  Europeans, 
and  some  of  them  exhibit  much  polish  in  their  man- 
ners, and  have  a very  tolerable  classical  education. 
This  street  occupies  a place  near  the  harbor.  The 
next  street  farther  back  is  occupied  by  those  whose 
residence  in  town  is  of  more  recent  date.  The  build- 


172 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ings  are  thatched,  roof  and  sides,  the  most  of  them, — 
a few  have  the  walls  boarded,  with  roofs  thatched. 
They  have  glass  windows  and  framed  doors;  and  are 
enclosed  with  walls  of  bricks  dried  in  the  sun,  and 
white  washed.  The  women  of  this  class  are  clad  in 
part  with  foreign  manufacture,  and  a part  in  the  bark 
cloth,  which  they  call  “ Tappa.”  Their  garments 
are  made  in  good  form,  and  they  exhibit  all  the  marks 
of  rapid  advancement  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and 
refinement. 

The  next  street  has  a perfect  representation  of  the 
semi-barbarous  state,  in  its  buildings  and  inhabitants. 
The  houses  are  rudely  fashioned,  and  thatched,  en- 
closed in  a palisade  of  sticks  and  vines,  or  of  half 
formed,  sun-dried  bricks.  The  males  are  clad,  some 
of  them  in  trowsers  and  hat,  and  no  shirt  or  shoes ; 
others  with  shirts  and  minus  the  trowsers ; and  one  I 
saw  with  hat  and  shoes,  and  without  either  shirt  or 
pants.  The  ladies  of  this  class  wore  a garment  of  the 
bark  cloth,  made  like  a long  bag,  with  a hole  in  the 
bottom,  without  sleeves.  This  is  drawn  over  the 
body  until  the  head  is  thrust  out  of  the  end,  and  the 
arms  appear  from  places  in  the  side,  left  open  for  that 
purpose.  This  garment  reaches  as  low  down  as  the 
ankles,  and  they  look  all  the  same  size  from  the 
shoulders  to  the  feet. 

Back  of  this  street,  you  see  a collection  of  the  mud 
huts  that  once  formed  the  only  habitations  of  the 
Sandwich  Islanders.  The  natives  of  this  class  come 
dressed  in  the  garb  of  the  heathen,  which  is  no  more 
than  a narrow  strip  of  tappa  tied  around  the  loins, 
and  a dirty  blanket  of  the  same  material,  thrown  cor- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


173 


ner-wise  over  the  left  shoulder,  coming  up  under  the 
right  arm,  and  tied  in  a large  knot  on  the  chest. 

These  individuals  have  just  caught  the  sound  of 
the  gospel,  and  have  come  to  settle  near  the  place 
where  they  can  enjoy  the  privilege  of  hearing  and 
learning  the  doctrines  of  the  Bible.  One  of  this  class 
exhibited  the  most  ludicrous  view  of  the  vanity  of 
pride  that  I ever  witnessed,  and  I could  not  well  help 
drawing  a lesson  from  it.  He  had  felt  evidently  a 
desire  for  the  finery  that  those  enjoyed  who  had  lived 
longer  in  the  town,  and  in  his  zeal  he  had  made  an 
effort  to  jump  at  once  from  barbarism  to  refinement, 
and  no  doubt,  in  his  own  estimation,  had  made  a mas- 
terly stride  towards  the  accomplishment  of  his  object 
But  his  position  was  convincing  every  one  that  saw 
him,  that  he  would  be  more  happy  and  comfortable 
in  the  condition  of  the  heathen.  This  individual  had 
upon  his  left  foot  the  remains  of  what  once  had  been 
a shoe.  All  the  outer  sole  was  worn  away  to  the  in- 
step, and  the  inner  sole  was  dragged  along  the  street, 
as  he  stepped,  like  the  tongue  of  a dog.  On  his  right 
leg,  he  had  the  top  of  a boot,  altogether  minus  the 
soles,  and  the  crown  of  a hat,  without  top  or  brim, 
was  drawn  on  his  head,  which  he  could  only  keep  off 
his  neck  by  crowding  into  one  side  a large  roll  of 
grass.  In  this  finery  he  was  perambulating  the 

streets.  He  had  left  his  tappa  blanket  at  home,  and 
every  one  that  saw  him  was  laughing  at  his  ridiculous 
appearance.  So  it  is  often  with  boys.  The  same 
spirit  that  led  this  man  leads  many  boys.  They  see 
others  wise,  rich  and  great,  and  make  an  effort  to 
jump  into  just  such  a condition,  over  all  the  labor  and 
study  by  which  the  truly  wise  and  great  became  so5 
35* 


174 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


and  instead  of  labor  and  study,  they  institute  lying 
and  theft,  and  thus  dispossess  themselves  of  good 
character  as  the  native  did  his  blanket,  and  appear 
ten  times  worse  in  the  estimation  of  the  world  than 
the  man  who  has  rested  satisfied  with  his  poverty  and 
ignorance. 

On  Sabbath  day,  I saw  the  natives  going  in  great 
numbers  to  the  place  “ where  prayer  was  wont  to  be 
made.”  They  were  neatly  dressed,  and  the  most 
profound  seriousness  rested  on  every  face  ; no  noisy 
mirth  was  heard  among  them.  The  loud  laugh  that 
speaks  the  thoughtless  mind  was  hushed,  and  silently 
and  solemnly  the  heathen  journeyed  to  the  sanctuary, 
to  hear  of  the  mercy  and  merits  of  that  Saviour,  of 
whom  but  a few  years  since,  many  of  them  were  en- 
tirely ignorant.  The  little  girls  looked  like  butterflies 
in  their  tappa  dresses,  which  are  fancifully  stained 
with  bright  red,  yellow  and  jet.  About  thirty  from 
our  ship,  all  man-of-wars-men,  followed  along  to  the 
church,  and  stood  around  the  doors  to  see  and  hear. 
The  missionary  who  was  to  officiate  that  day,  was 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham.  He  read  a hymn  in  the  na- 
tive language,  but  when  the  native  choir  began  to 
sing,  the  effect  upon  our  party  was  electrical.  They 
began  to  sing  the  hymn  to  the  tune  of  old  “ Green- 
ville.” Before  the  first  verse  was  finished,  our  party 
were  all  seated  under  the  shade  of  the  house,  and  took 
off  their  hats,  and  many  a tar  that  was  insensible  to 
fear  in  dangers  and  death,  wet  the  corners  of  his  neck 
handkerchief  with  tears,  that  were  called  from  their 
fountains  by  the  recollections  of  childhood,  friends  and 
home,  which  were  brought  upon  their  minds  in  con- 
nection with  that  old  tune ; and  when  at  length  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


175 


sermon  commenced  in  the  native  tongue,  we  started 
to  go  away,  I saw  some  with  their  shoes  in  their  hands, 
and  others  on  tiptoe,  lest  they  should  make  a noise 
and  disturb  the  worshipers. 

In  external  manners  and  habits  of  life,  the  common 
people  or  Kanakas,  present  a strong  contrast  to  the 
chiefs;  and  indeed  are  wretched  people,  subject,  not 
only  to  blindness  of  heart  and  mind,  but  also  the  most 
abject  poverty.  Their  condition  is  as  bad,  if  not 
worse,  than  many  slaves  in  the  U.  S.  If  the  former 
are  an  object  of  interest,  the  latter  should  be  of  a com- 
passion that  should  almost  border  on  agony. 

The  greatest  wealth  of  which  some  of  the  less  en- 
lightened can  boast,  consists  of  a mat  on  which  to  lie, 
a few  folds  of  tappa  to  cover  them,  one-  calabash  for 
water  and  another  for  poi , a rude  implement  or  two 
for  the  cultivation  of  their  ground,  and  the  instru- 
ments used  in  their  simple  manufactures.  Tarro,  po- 
tatoes and  suet,  with  occasionally  a fish,  constitute 
their  general  food ; while  all  else  they  raise,  or  take, 
and  every  result  of  their  labor,  goes  to  meet  the  exorbi- 
tant taxes  levied  by  the  king  and  his  governors, 
and  their  own  respective  chiefs  and  landlords.  The 
spontaneous  production  is  very  scarce,  and  labor  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year  is  necessary  to  the  support  of 
life.  In  this  respect  this  group  differs  widely  from 
the  Society  and  other  Islands  in  the  South  Pacific 
Ocean,  which  we  have  visited,  where  eight  months 
in  the  year,  the  natives  have  only  to  pluck  their  food, 
principally  breadfruit,  from  the  trees  overhanging  their 
habitations.  The  growth  of  the  breadfruit  here  is 
confined  to  a few  districts  on  one  or  two  islands,  and 


176 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


where  found,  yields  a very  partial  supply  at  any  sea- 
son. 

Tarro , an  article  which  I have  frequently  mention- 
ed, is  the  principal  food  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders, 
and  to  the  whole  nation,  answers  the  double  pur- 
pose of  bread  and  vegetables.  The  plant  to  which 
it  belongs,  is  the  Arum,  a root  growing  in  many 
parts  of  America,  and  particularly  in  the  West  India 
Islands ; and  sometimes  known  by  the  name  of  the 
wild  indian  turnip.  Tarro  is  the  Arum  Esculentum  of 
the  botanist,  and  is  used  in  many  other  warm  climates 
as  a vegetable.  It  here  occupies  the  most  of  the  culti- 
vated ground,  especially  such  as  is  capable  of  be- 
ing overflown  by  water ; and  the  planting,  irrigation 
and  necessary  care  of  it,  form  the  most  laborious  part 
of  native  farming.  The  islanders  have  arrived  at 
great  skill  in  the  cultivation  of  this  plant,  and  perhaps 
their  mode  of  growing  it,  considering  the  general  face 
of  the  country,  scarcely  admits  of  improvement,  unless 
it  be  in  the  implements  with  which  they  work.  The 
beds  in  which  the  tarro  stands,  are  generally  square 
or  oblong,  of  various  sizes,  from  that  of  a few  yards 
to  half  of  an  acre.  The  natives  prepare  it  for  use,  by 
baking  it  in  the  only  manner  practiced  among  them. 
This  is  by  digging  a hole  in  the  ground,  one  or  two 
feet  deep  and  five  or  six  in  circumference,  and  placing 
a layer  of  stones  upon  the  bottom,  upon  which  wood 
is  placed  and  a fire  kindled  ; other  stones  are  laid  on 
the  fire,  and  by  the  burning  of  the  wood  the  whole 
becomes  ignited ; those  on  the  top  are  drawn  off,  and 
the  tarro,  dog,  pig,  or  fish, — closely  wrapped  in  the 
leaves  of  the  ti, — is  laid  on  the  hearth  of  stones  still  re- 
maining on  the  bottom,  and  hastily  covered  with  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


1 77 


rest ; a little  water  is  poured  on  to  create  a steam,  and 
the  whole  is  then  covered  with  earth, — by  which  the 
heat  and  steam  are  kept  from  escaping — and  the  article 
in  the  umaii , or  oven,  becomes  cooked.  The  tarro 
thus  baked,  is  in  the  next  place  made  into  their  fa- 
vorite poi.  The  process  is  very  simple,  though  so  la- 
borious as  to  be  performed  by  the  men ; — it  is  simply 
by  beating  the  tarro  upon  a short  plank  of  hard  wood, 
slightly  hollowed  in  the  middle,  like  a tray,  with  a 
stone  something  in  the  shape  of  a clumsy  pestle,  wet- 
ting it  occasionally  with  water,  like  dough.  It  is 
then  put  into  a calabash,  diluted  with  water  and  set 
aside  for  fermentation.  This  soon  takes  place  and 
the  pot  is  fit  for  use  in  a day  or  two,  though  preferred 
when  four  or  five  days  old. 

It  is  eaten  by  thrusting  the  fore  finger  into  the  mess 
and  securing  as  much  as  will  adhere  to  it  in  passing 
it  to  the  mouth.  Next  to  tarro , the  sweet  potato  is 
the  principal  article  of  cultivation.  The  yam  also  is 
grown,  but  chiefly  at  the  leeward  islands.  I saw 
none  here.  Indian  corn  has  been  introduced,  but  is 
very  little  used  as  an  article  of  diet.  Esculent  plants, 
such  as  cabbages,  squashes,  water-melons,  musk-mel- 
ons, pumpkins,  cucumbers  and  beans, — the  seeds  of 
which  have  been  introduced  by  the  missionaries  and 
foreigners, — are  becoming  abundant ; they  are  culti- 
vated principally  for  ships,  and  the  table  of  foreign 
residents. 

These  islands  were  discovered  in  the  year  1778, 
by  Captain  James  Cook,  of  the  British  navy,  and 
from  him,  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  then  the 
first  Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  received  the  name  by 
which  they  are  at  present  designated.  The  tragical 


178 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


event,  and  lamented  death  of  this  celebrated  naviga- 
tor at  Hawaii,  in  the  succeeding  year,  caused  their 
existence  to  be  made  known  to  the  civilized  world 
with  an  excitement  of  feeling  that  deeply  stamped  the 
event  on  the  public  mind. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Visit  of  a Native  Chief — Sentence  of  death  passed  upon  two  Na- 
tives for  the  murder  of  a Female  Chief — Departure — Arrival 
at  Hawaii — Expedition — Visit  to  the  Volcano — Mouna  Roa. 

u Deep  midnight  now  involves  the  lurid  skies, 

While  infant  breezes  from  the  shore  arise, 

The  waning  moon,  behind  a watery  shroud, 

Pale  glimmered  o’er  the  long-protracted  cloud. 

A mighty  ring  around  her  silver  throne, 

With  parting  meteors  crossed,  portentous  shone  5 
This  in  the  troubled  sky  full  oft  prevails, — 

Oft  deemed  a signal  for  tempestuous  gales.” 


On  the  27th  of  Sept.,  Governor  Tekooanoa  visited 
the  ship,  and  was  received  with  military  honors. 
During  the  day  the  English,  American,  and  French 
consuls  also  visited  us,  with  a portion  of  the  mission 
and  foreign  residents. 

In  a short  time  afterward  the  news  of  the  death  of 
Commodore  D.  T.  Patterson  was  received,  and  read 
to  all  hands  on  the  quarter  deck,  and  the  officers  or- 
dered to  wear  crape  on  the  left  arm  for  thirty  days,  in 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


179 


testimony  of  respect  for  the  deceased.  All  the  Ameri- 
can vessels  in  the  harbor,  as  well  as  the  foreign  ves- 
sels and  the  fort  on  shore,  had  their  colors  at  half 
mast.  On  the  28th  inst.  the  king  of  the  Sandwich  Isl- 
ands arrived  in  his  yacht  from  Maui,  on  which  occa- 
sion the  fort  fired  a salute  of  21  guns.  On  the  29th 
the  Peacock  arrived  off  the  bar  and  came  to  anchor, 
she  having  separated  from  us  several  days  before  our 
arrival  here. 

The  sentence  of  death  was  published  on  the  5th, 
for  the  murder  of  a female  on  the  28th  of  Sept.  The 
following  is  the  sentence. 

Eia  ka  pai  palu  a ua’  bi  i palupalu  i ia  Kaman- 
awa  laua  o Lonopuakau,  ike  mai  na  Kanaka  a pan. 
E Kamanawa  a me  Lonopuakau.  E like  me  ka 
olelo  hoo  hewa  in  olua,  e maki,  i hoo  holoin’  ii  kula 
30  o Sepatemabu,  ke  hai  aku  rei  molama,  i ka  hora  jj 
Pomaikai  olua,  ke  mihi  i oleed  i keia  marr  la,  e kal- 
uin  mai  ai  i ko  olua  hewn  nui  e Jesu. 

Kamehameha  iii 
Kekauluohi. 

Honolulu , Okatobu  4 th)  1840. 

TRANSLATION. 

Sentence  of  the  Chiefs , sent  in  writing  to  Kamanawa 
and  Lonopuaka , published  for  the  information  of 
all  persons. 

To  Kamanawa  and  Lonopuaka. — In  accordance  with 
the  sentence  of  death,  passed  upon  you  on  the  30th 
Sept.,  we  hereby  notify  you  that  the  day  of  your  ex- 
ecution will  be  the  20th  day  of  the  present  month,  at 
11  o’clock,  A.  M.  Happy  indeed  will  you  be,  should 
you  improve  the  present  few  days  by  repentance,  that 


180 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


your  heinous  crimes  may  be  forgiven  through  Jesus 
Christ. 

Kamehameha  iii 
Kekauluohi. 

Honolulu.  Oct.  5th,  1840. 

While  here,  the  Commander  in  Chief  of  the  Expe- 
dition and  officers  paid  their  respects  to  his  Hawaiian 
majesty.  They  were  received  with  due  respect,  and 
treated  very  courteously  during  their  stay.  There 
was  some  of  the  “pomp  and  circumstance”  of  prince- 
ly grandeur  and  consequence,  which  are  usually  seen 
in  more  enlightened  portions  of  the  world.  Truly, 

“ Feeble  man 

Clothed  with  a little  brief  authority, 

Plays  such  fantastic  tricks  before  high  heaven, 

As  make  the  angels  weep.” 

On  the  20th,  the  day  previously  appointed  for  the 
execution,  at  11  o’clock  the  chief  Kamanawa  and  the 
native  Lonopuakau,  were  both  hanged  by  the  neck 
upon  the  ramparts  of  the  fort,  before  an  immense 
crowd  of  spectators.  The  Rev.  Messrs.  Armstrong 
and  Smith  addressed  the  throne  of  grace  in  their  be- 
half. About  eight  hundred  natives,  under  arms,  were 
assembled,  and  passed  behind  them,  two  and  two, 
with  arms  reversed,  until  the  whole  was  concluded. 
As  they  dropped,  the  colors  were  half-masted,  the  bell 
tolled,  and  there  was  a general  yell  and  weeping 
throughout  the  village.  The  chief  died  a very  hard 
death. 

At  10  o’clock,  Dec.  3d,  Mr.  Alex.  Adams,  pilot, 
came  on  board  for  the  purpose  of  conducting  us  out 
of  the  harbor,  but  in  consequence  of  some  difficulty 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


181 


with  the  captain,  was  ordered  ashore.  After  dispen- 
sing with  the  services  of  the  pilot,  boats  were  sent 
out  with  signals,  to  point  out  the  passage,  which  com- 
pensated for  the  sudden  ejection  of  the  pilot.  We 
received  P.  A.  Brinsmaide,  Esq.,  American  consul, 
and  Dr.  J.  P.  Judd,  physician  to  the  mission,  who 
came  on  board  to  take  passage  to  Hawaii. 

Our  passage  out  of  this  dangerous  harbor  was  not 
only  safe  but  pleasant,  nothing  of  particular  impor- 
tance occurring  to  mar  the  harmony  of  our  company, 
which  had  become  considerably  changed,  from  the 
fact  that  many  who  had  been  with  us  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  expedition,  had  already  embarked 
for  their  native  shores,  and  their  places  had  been  sup- 
plied by  a corresponding  number  of  natives.  A few 
days  brought  us  in  sight  of  the  beautiful  Island  of 
Hawaii.  We  came  to  an  anchor  on  the  9th,  in  Hilo 
Bay. 

Hawaii  or  Owhyhee  is  the  most  southerly  island  of 
this  group,  and  on  account  of  its  great  elevation  is 
generally  the  first  land  seen  from  the  ship  on  ap- 
proaching the  Sandwich  Islands.  No  other  spot  in 
the  boundless  expanse  of  North  and  South  Pacific 
exhibits  so  much  of  beauty  and  sublimity,  as  is  dis- 
played to  the  traveler  in  approaching  this  island. 
Along  the  sea- shore  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay,  the 
hills  and  valleys,  covered  with  a rich  soil,  are  heavily 
laden  with  crops  of  tarro,  sugar,  and  various  tippical 
fruits ; sweet  potatoes  grow  well,  and  the  arrow  root 
is  also  an  article  of  export  from  this  island,  and  gin- 
ger is  the  spontaneous  production  of  the  soil.  Its  ori- 
gin is  volcanic.  Several  craters,  now  dormant,  are 
found  in  various  parts  of  the  island,  some  of  which 
16 


182 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


are  filled  up  with  earth  and  covered  over  with  a lux- 
uriant growth  of  grass  and  herbage.  Cattle,  horses 
and  sheep  eat  and  sleep  where  once  the  volcano  roar- 
ed and  vomited  forth  its  stores  of  liquid  fire,  and 
where,  doubtless,  now  at  no  great  depth  beneath  them, 
broad  streams  of  perpetual  fire  are  furiously  coursing, 
flashing,  sparkling,  madly  driven  by  the  power  of  the 
gas  as  it  careers  along  by  the  guidance  of  Omnipo- 
tence, to  the  safety  valves  that  the  God  of  nature  has 
provided  for  its  escape. 

This  bay  is  large  and  commodious,  sufficiently  so 
for  ships  of  any  size  to  come  in  and  anchor.  On  ap- 
proaching the  land,  we  were  delighted  with  the  ver- 
dure, luxuriance  and  beauty  of  the  landscape,  opening 
to  us  the  village  of  Hilo  and  its  neighborhood.  The 
land  rises  gradually  from  the  beach,  to  a distance  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  bordering  upon  a heavy  wood, 
encircling  Mouna  Roa.  Though  the  country  is  but 
partially  cultivated,  this  large  district  has  all  the 
appearance  of  cultivation,  and  of  having  been  laid 
out  by  artificial  workmanship, — being  an  open  coun- 
try, covered  with  grass,  and  beautifully  studded  and 
sprinkled  with  clumps  and  groves  and  single  trees, 
with  here  and  there  a patch  of  sugar-cane,  after  the 
manner  of  park  scenery,  with  a cottage  here  and  there 
peeping  from  the  rich  foliage.  The  summits  of  the 
two  great  mountains  of  Mouna  Roa  and  Mouaked  are, 
most  £>f  the  time,  covered  with  snow,  with  a belt  of 
clouds  hanging  below,  which  gives  to  the  scene,  in 
that  direction,  quite  a gloomy  aspect,  but  it  is  by  no 
means  a sterile  country.  The  channel  is  formed  by  a 
cliff  on  the  right  hand  side,  and  on  the  left  a sunken 
noral  reef,  the  point  of  which  comes  within  a short 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


183 


distance  of  the  shore,  making  it  necessary  for  ships  to 
pass  so  near  the  breakers  as  to  appear  in  a.  dangerous 
situation ; seamen,  however,  think  it  perfectly  safe. 
The  reefs  run  in  a curved  direction,  to  a point  in  the 
channel  about  half  a mile  to  westward,  where  it  joins 
a romantic  little  islet,  covered  with  cocoa-nut  trees. 
Near  this  place  our  observatory  was  situated,  together 
with  two  or  three  small  thatched  houses,  which  were 
built  by  the  king’s  order  for  our  accommodation,  some 
time  previous  to  our  arrival.  A small  channel  runs 
between  this  and  the  main  land,  which  is  low,  and 
sweeps  round  to  the  western  cliffs  in  a beautifully 
curved  sandy  beach  of  about  three  miles,  making  the 
form  of  the  bay  that  of  a flattened  horse-shoe.  The 
beach  is  covered  with  varied  vegetation,  and  orna- 
mented by  clumps,  groves  and  single  trees  of  lofty 
cocoa-nut,  among  which  the  habitations  of  the  natives 
are  to  be  seen ; — not  in  a village,  but  scattered  every 
where  among  the  plantations,  like  farm-houses  in  a 
thickly  settled  country.  The  mission  houses  are 
pleasantly  situated  about  three  hundred  yards  from 
the  water’s  edge,  and  in  full  view  from  our  ship  in 
the  middle  of  the  curvature  of  the  beach,  forming  the 
head  of  the  bay.  They  look  like  so  many  palaces, 
when  compared  with  the  wigwams  of  the  natives. 
At  a very  short  distance  from  the  beach,  the  bread- 
fruit trees  are  to  be  seen  in  every  direction,  intersect- 
ed with  the  pandanas,  tuiui , or  candle  tree,  the  hybis- 
cus  and  acacia,  &c.  The  tops  of  these  rise  gradually 
one  above  another,  as  the  country  ascends  gently  to- 
wards the  mountains  in  the  interior,  for  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  in  the  S.  E.,  presenting  a delightful  forest 


184 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


scene,  totally  different  from  any  thing  that  I have  seen 
among  the  islands. 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  Capt.  Wilkes  was  busily 
employed  in  preparing  the  instruments,  &c.,  for  an 
expedition  to  Mouna  Roa,  the  most  elevated  volcano 
of  this  group,  and  said  to  be  second  in  height  to  none 
in  the  world,  the  summit  of  which,  although  within 
the  tropics,  is  glistening  with  the  ice  and  snow  of  per- 
petual winter.  One  hundred  and  fifty  natives  were 
engaged  to  carry  the  instruments  and  baggage,  port- 
able houses,  tents,  etc.,  and  six  seamen  were  selected 
from  the  crew  to  accompany  the  officers  appointed  to 
the  management  of  the  affair,  the  commodore  in  per- 
son commanding  the  whole  party.  Having  separated 
the  natives  into  parties  in  numbers  proportionate  to 
the  burden  assigned  to  each,  we  got  them  loaded,  and 
we  started  from  the  observatory  about  three  o’clock 
in  the  afternoon,  and  it  was  really  interesting  to  see 
the  whole  cavalcade  winding  along  the  hills  and  val- 
leys on  their  way  to  the  volcano. 

After  following  the  banks  of  a river  about  a mile, 
we  traveled  in  a south-westerly  direction.  The  soil 
of  this  highly  interesting  island,  where  we  could  see  it, 
was  fertile,  and  in  many  places  well  cultivated,  pro- 
ducing sugar,  tarro,  breadfruit,  yams,  potatoes,  and 
an  abundance  of  bananas,  and  other  tropical  fruits. 
But  by  far  the  larger  portion  of  land  over  which  we 
traveled,  was  perfectly  encrusted  with  lava,  probably 
the  work  of  other  volcanoes  now  extinct : several  cra- 
ters were  to  be  seen  in  different  parts  of  the  island,  one 
of  which  was  in  plain  sight  from  the  ship.  In  many 
places  the  lava  is  covered  with  a rich  soil,  which  fur- 
nishes roots  to  a variety  of  handsomely  flowered 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


185 


shrubbery.  We  encamped  about  6 o’clock,  P.  M.,  hav- 
ing traveled  eight  miles  to  a small  town  called  Tuoro, 
until  the  moon  should  rise  to  give  us  sufficient  light, 
which  was  not  until  midnight,  at  which  time  we 
again  resumed  our  journey,  and  traveled  to  another 
town  called  Winla;  here  we  again  encamped  about 
10  o’clock,  A.  M.  We  took  breakfast,  and  again  re- 
sumed our  journey.  The  path  began  to  grow  more 
and  more  rugged  and  our  progress,  of  course,  slower. 
At  4 o’clock,  P.  M.,  we  encamped  at  a town  called 
Kappaohee.  The  country  here  presents  a more  sterile 
aspect;  the  masses  of  lava  were  more  prominent  and 
were  cleft  in  many  places  by  convulsions  of  the  earth. 
Some  of  these  chasms  were  three  or  four  feet  in  width 
and  of  immense  depth. 

At  8 o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the  16th.  we  left 
Kappaohee  and  arrived  at  the  volcano  at  2 o’clock, 
P.  M.  As  we  approached  the  crater,  the  soil  contin- 
ued to  grow  more  barren,  and  the  only  productions 
are  a few  trees,  called  in  the  native  tongue,  Ohea  and 
Koa , a gigantic  growth  of  fern  and  brake.  The  road, 
owing  to  the  crumbled  state  of  the  lava,  was  much 
more  even  and  smooth  than  I expected  to  find  it. 
The  natives  who  carried  the  instruments  had  become 
lame,  fatigued,  and  their  shoulders  much  swolen  and 
sore,  although  the  commodore  had  treated  them  kind- 
ly— had  never  hurried  them  in  the  least,  and  they 
were  well  supplied  with  provisions, 

At  7 P.  M.,  a party  of  seamen  went  from  the  tents 
to  witness  the  great  exhibition  of  the  powers  of  na- 
ture’s God.  The  encampment  was  about  200  yards 
from  the  crater. 

Our  object  was  to  get  round  to  that  side  of  the  era- 
*16 


186 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ter  that  commanded  a view  of  the  largest  fire ; and 
we  had  to  climb  over  several  precipices  of  almost  per- 
pendicular masses  of  scoria.  It  was  a moonless  night, 
and  the  attempt  was  made  still  more  dangerous  by 
wide  and  deep  chasms  that  frequently  crossed  the 
path.  Some  of  these  were  three  or  four  miles  in 
lengthy  and  as  many  feet  wide,  and  of  immeasur- 
able depth,  and  we  were  enabled  to  find  our  way 
over  them  only  by  the  light  of  the  fires  below.  We 
approached  the  crater  from  the  south-east,  and  when 
seated  on  the  brink  of  the  frightful  chasm,  nothing 
can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  soul-thrilling  sublimity 
of  the  scene.  Here  we  had  a full  view  of  all  the  fires. 
I do  not  expect  my  pen  can  give  any  thing  like  an  ad- 
equate description  of  this  place,  nor  do  I believe  it  in 
the  power  of  any  thing  finite  to  do  so;  on  the  contrary, 
the  awfully  grand  and  sublime  display  of  the  wisdom 
and  goodness,  as  well  as  the  power  of  God,  is  infinite- 
ly beyond  description. 

In  order  to  give  my  readers  a faint  description  of 
the  scene,  they  must  imagine  a chasm  eleven  miles  in 
circumference,  by  three  in  diameter,  and  over  one 
thousand  feet  deep.  The  walls  are  of  solid  scoria, 
and  perpendicular  with  several  boiling  lakes  of  liquid 
fire,  the  bottom  of  which  is  at  least  a mile  in  circum- 
ference ; the  stupendous  walls  of  the  crater  were  il- 
luminated by  the  strong  light  of  the  fire;  the  gas 
which  rushed  up  to  escape  from  its  confinement  in  the 
fiery  depths,  was  throwing  up  a thousand  streams 
at  once  into  the  air  seventy-five  or  one  hundred  feet, 
with  a monotonous  sound  as  of  heavy  surf  breaking 
on  a rock-bound  shore,  combined  with  the  hissing, 
rushing  roar  of  a vast  conflagration,  while  a huge 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


187 


column  of  smoke,  which  seemed  to  he  converted  into 
flame  by  the  light  of  the  fire,  rising  a thousand  feet 
above  the  crater,  and  which  is  seen  in  a clear  night 
at  least  fifty  miles,  added  to  the  imposing  effect  of  the 
scene,  and  I have  never  had  my  nerves  put  to  such  a 
test,  as  they  were  while  seated  on  the  brink  of  this 
frightful  abyss,  with  my  feet  hanging  over  the  edge, 
surveying  this  magnificent  display  of  Almighty  Pow- 
er. Compared  with  this,  what  are  the  proudest  works 
of  art.  Man  may  look  on  his  cities,  his  catacombs, 
his  machinery,  but  let  the  man  most  famed  for  wis- 
dom and  power,  be  seated  for  ten  minutes  on  the 
brink  of  this  fiery  abyss,  and  a sense  of  his  nothing- 
ness will  thrill  through  every  part  of  his  little  soul. 
And  yet,  while  almost  breathless  by  the  intensity  of 
the  feelings  awakened  by  this  scene,  it  dwindled  into 
nothing  as  I thought  of  that  day  fixed  by  the  eternal 
fiat  of  Omnipotence,  when  this  whole  world,  its  con- 
tinents and  islands,  its  oceans  and  seas,  should  be  ex- 
hibited to  a congregated  world  in  the  same  state  as 
the  fiery  gulf  below. 

The  commodore  immediately  ordered  us  away 
from  our  fearful  proximity  to  the  crater,  where  in  our 
recklessness  we  had  perched  ourselves,  and  we  all  sat 
together  for  some  hours  in  inexpressible  admiration 
and  wonder.  The  night  was  dark,  and  the  aspect  of 
the  whole  scene  was  more  imposing  on  that  account : 
and  while  we  were  sitting  there,  a new  place  opened 
on  the  side  of  the  crater,  opposite  to  us,  and  a stream 
of  liquid  fire  ran  down  into  the  bottom  of  the  abyss, 
winding  its  way  along  among  the  cones  and  spires  of 
scoria  with  serpentine  course,  beautifully  marked  by  its 
own  light,  now  turning  some  corner  in  a narrow 


188 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


stream,  now  widening  out  into  a lake  as  it  filled  up 
some  hollow  in  its  bed,  until  at  length  it  emptied  itself 
into  the  great  sea  of  fire.  It  was  not  until  after  mid- 
night that  we  reached  the  encampment. 

On  the  17th,  the  natives  complained  of  their  fatigue 
and  lameness  so  much,  that  Capt.  Wilkes  concluded 
to  remain  at  the  volcano  until  the  day  following.  We 
spent  the  day  in  walking  about,  and  going  down  into 
the  crater.  Mr.  Budd,  Mr.  Eld  and  myself  missed 
our  path,  and  walked  so  far  out  of  the  way,  that  we 
did  not  get  back  in  season  to  go  to  the  bottom : we 
were  descending  into  the  crater,  when  we  met  the 
commodore  and  his  attendants  coming  out.  One  of 
the  natives  who  attended  the  commodore  could  speak 
a little  English  tolerably  well,  and  he  told  Mr.  Eld, 
with  his  usual  quaintness  of  expression,  “ that  if  he 
went  to  the  bottom  it  would  be  dark  before  he  would 
get  out,  and  that  he  would  fall  into  some  of  the  holes 
and  kill  his  neck.” 

This  evening  I was  again  at  the  place  that  com- 
manded a full  view  of  the  largest  fire,  and  it  evident- 
ly seemed- much  larger  than  it  was  the  night  before, 
and  we  saw  that  it  was  rapidly  increasing ; several 
new  places  had  opened  about  the  bottom,  and  the 
noise  was  much  louder.  The  lava  was  spouting 
very  high  at  the  northern  end  of  the  molten  sea,  and 
a rapid  current  was  flowing  to  the  southward  and 
westward.  The  commodore,  Mr.  Brinsmaide,  Dr. 
Judd,  Mr.  Budd,  and  Mr.  Eld  joined  the  party  of  sea- 
men about  8 o’clock,  and  it  was  the  opinion  of  us  all, 
that  in  a few  days  the  whole  bottom  of  this  vast  cra- 
ter would  be  one  sea  of  liquid  fire. 

Next  morning  early  we  struck  our  tents,  and,  as 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


189 


soon  as  possible,  resumed  our  journey  towards  the 
summit  of  Mouna  Roa.  The  base  of  this  moirntain 
is  about  twelve  miles  from  the  volcano  in  a direct  line, 
but  to  follow  the  path  the  distance  is  much  greater. 
The  road  during  this  day  was  much  more  rugged  and 
uncomfortable,  leading  over  an  extensive  bed  of  rough 
lava.  A few  dwarfish  trees  and  shrubs,  for  miles, 
were  the  only  productions  to  be  met  with.  After  pass- 
ing this  we  passed  over  some  uneven  prairie  land,  and 
encamped  about  3 P.  M.  on  the  summit  of  a lofty  hill. 
The  natives  came  up  to  us  one  after  another,  and  as 
they  arrived,  immediately  set  to  work  building  their 
huts  for  the  night,  and  in  two  hours  we  had  an  en- 
campment of  seven  tents  and  forty-five  huts.  The 
natives  displayed  more  ingenuity  and  celerity  in  the 
art  of  hut  building  than  I have  seen  among  them  in 
any  other  way.  Each  hut  had  a large  fire  before  it, 
and  when  the  night  set  in,  the  scene  was  highly  inter- 
esting; the  huts  were  built  in  a circle  around  the 
tents,  and  the  whole  encampment  made  quite  an  im- 
posing village.  Our  elevation  was  4500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  next  morning,  Dec.  19th,  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney and  traveled  about  eight  miles,  and  again  en- 
camped on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The  lava  here 
had  a much  more  ancient  appearance,  the  shrubbery 
and  herbage  more  sickly  and  sallow.  Elevation  6000 
feet.  Therometer  48  degrees,  Fahrenheit. 

This  part  of  the  country  is  dry,  and  persons  travel- 
ing here  are  often  obliged  to  go  several  days  without 
water.  The  whole  of  this  vast  mountain  is  perfora- 
ted with  caves,  so  numerous,  indeed,  that  we  visited 
five  in  one  day,  some  of  them  of  unknown  extent. 


190 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


One  of  them  was  carved  and  finished  in  a style  that 
bore  close  resemblance  to  the  works  of  art.  A pro- 
jection ran  along  on  both  sides,  elegantly  mould- 
ed, about  three  feet  high,  and  perfectly  smooth, — 
making  a splendid  seat  nearly  300  feet  in  length. 
The  floor  was  smooth,  and  the  whole  cave  bore  evi- 
dent marks  of  having  been,  at  some  period,  a subter- 
raneous passage,  leading  from  some  crater,  through 
which  had  flowed  a stream  of  boiling  lava,  and  prob- 
ably it  is  through  such  passages  as  this  that  the  lava 
has  flowed,  which  has  so  completely  inundated  the 
whole  island. 

Having  followed  the  passage  nearly  half  a mile,  we 
came  to  an  opening  in  the  floor,  and  getting  down  on 
the  fragments  of  lava  which  lay  underneath,  we  found 
a second  passage  as  spacious  as  the  first,  running  par- 
allel with  it;  having  followed  this  second  passage 
about  half  a mile,  we  came  to  another  opening,  and 
looking  down,  we  saw  another  passage  leading  under 
this.  How  far  it  extended  we  did  not  ascertain. 
Being  disappointed  in  our  search  for  water,  we  con- 
cluded to  go  no  further ; the  water  was  dripping 
from  the  roof  in  a thousand  places,  but  the  floor  was 
too  porous  to  retain  it.  The  roof  was  beautifully 
coated  with  stalactite,  resembling  stucco  work.  This 
is  formed,  probably,  from  particles  of  lime  and  salt, 
which  are  dissolved  by  the  water  that  passes  through 
this  cave,  and  is  admitted  through  the  overhanging 
arch  ; — these  are  pendant  like  icicles,  and  some  of 
them  acquire  the  length  of  three  or  four  feet. 

In  two  of  the  caves  we  visited,  we  found  water; 
being  thoroughly  filtered  by  its  passage  through  the 
lava,  it  was  as  clear  as  a crystal,  extremely  cold,  and 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


191 


very  sweet.  In  a distant  part  of  one  of  the  caves  we 
found  the  bones  of  some  birds,  and  the  remains  of  a 
human  skeleton.  The  bones  were  much  decayed, 
but  enough  of  them  remained  to  show  that  they  be- 
longed to  the  human  species. 

On  Monday  morning,  Dec.  21st,  we  again  struck 
our  tents  and  resumed  our  journey  up  the  mountain. 
The  road  was  precipitous,  and  our  ascent  tiresome ; 
the  whole  mountain  seemed  to  be  a mass  of  lava'. 
There  are  some  craters  on  the  summit,  and  it  is  prob- 
able that  the  whole  of  this  vast  mountain  has  been 
ejected  from  them  and  their  outlets. 

From  the  appearance  of  this  island,  so  far  as  I am 
able  to  judge,  it  might  with  great  propriety  be  termed 
11  Terra  del  Fuego,”  which  signifies,  in  English,  the 
land  of  fire.  Judging  from  the  quantities  of  lava  now 
on  the  surface,  and  the  quantities  that  must  have  run 
into  the  sea,  there  must  he  an  immense  vacuum  under 
this  island.  Nothing  here  relieves  the  dreary  grey  of 
the  lava,  excepting  here  and  there  a small  tuft  of 
stunted  shrubbery,  which  takes  root  in  the  crevices  of 
the  rock.  I saw  no  birds  or  animals  at  this  place,  or 
any  thing  living,  except  what  belonged  to  the  party. 
The  air  is  sensibly  colder;  the  clouds  were  then 
rolling  below  us,  and  their  appearance  was  often 
grand  and  majestic.  We  were  now  about  fifty  miles 
inland,  but  from  this  height  we  can  see  the  surf  of  the 
ocean  breaking  on  the  beach.  Our  elevation  on  the 
evening  of  the  21st,  was  9000  feet.  Thermometer  40 
deg.  At  sunrise  on  the  morning  of  the  22d,  the 
weather  was  much  colder.  Thermometer  37  deg. 
The  natives  were  mostly  naked,  and  the  cold  seemed 
to  frighten  them.  Dr.  Judd,  Serg.  Stearns,  and  one 


192 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


of  the  seamen  went  on,  when  the  party  encamped,  to 
the  summit,  and  returned  at  sunset,  bringing  some  ice 
and  snow  with  them.  When  the  natives  saw  it,  they 
all  shouted  uoury  miti ,” — meaning,  not  good. 

About  9 A.  M.,  the  commodore  and  some  of  the 
seamen,  together  with  as  many  of  the  natives  as  were 
able  to  go  up,  started  for  the  summit,  with  some  of 
the  instruments,  the  portable  house,  and  some  of  the 
tents.  Lieut.  Budd,  Dr.  Pickering,  Mr.  Eld  and  three 
seamen,  remained  at  the  encampment,  to  send  on  the 
natives  as  they  arrived  with  such  instruments  as  were 
wanted.  At  4 P.  M.,  some  of  the  officers  returned 
from  the  summit,  and  brought  information  that  one 
of  the  seamen  had  been  taken  sick,  and  was  lying  on 
the  rocks,  unable  to  get  up.  No  compensation  could 
induce  the  natives  to  venture  in  search  of  him.  I 
started  alone,  just  at  dark,  hut  could  not  find  him. 
The  night  shut  in  dark  and  rainy,  and  our  tent  was 
but  a poor  protection  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather.  A number  of  natives  were  comfortably 
lodged  in  the  tents,  but  no  inducement  could  get  them 
out,  to  assist  in  getting  some  articles  which  we  wanted 
to  make  our  shelter  better. 

Dr.  Judd,  Mr.  Eld  and  Dr.  Pickering,  went  up  the 
mountain  on  the  23d,  accompanied  by  as  many  na- 
tives as  could  be  hired  to  ascend.  Mr.  Eld  went  in 
search  of  William  Longley,  the  man  who  was  sick, 
and  returned  with  information  at  sunset,  that  he  was 
better,  and  had  gone  up  the  mountain.  At  10  o’clock, 
fifty  seamen  arrived  from  the  ship,  under  Lieut.  Al- 
den,  and  remained  with  us  until  the  next  morning. 

During  the  24th,  the  weather  was  in  unison  with 
the  face  of  the  country.  The  clouds,  which  had  been 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


193 


collecting  round  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  rose  towards 
noon,  and  enveloped  us  in  a misty  veil,  with  occasion- 
ally drizzling  showers  of  rain.  The  tents  were  insuf- 
ficient to  hold  us  all,  and  a party  of  the  seamen  re- 
paired to  an  adjacent  cave,  and  slept  very  comforta- 
bly. About  7 o’clock,  a few  natives  came  down  from 
the  summit  to  the  cave,  and  informed  us  that  Longley 
had  not  been  found,  and  that  general  fears  were  en- 
tertained that  he  was  dead;  the  night  being  exces- 
sively dark  and  foggy,  further  search  was  deferred 
until  the  next  morning.  At  7 A.  M.,  the  seamen  were 
sent  to  the  summit  with  the  large  pendulum,  and  jour- 
neyman clocks,  and  other  instruments.  At  11  o’clock, 
thirty-four  natives  arrived  from  the  ship  with  provis- 
ions for  the  men  and  officers.  At  3 o’clock,  I was 
suddenly  seized  with  a violent  pain  in  the  head ; sev- 
eral others  of  the  seamen,  and  some  of  the  officers, 
were  affected  in  the  same  way.  It  was  attributed  to 
the  rarity  of  the  air  at  so  great  an  elevation. 

At  sunset  the  scouts  returned,  but  brought  no  intel- 
ligence of  Longley.  All  the  seamen  were  employed 
in  carrying  up  the  instruments, — most  of  the  natives 
having  become  discouraged  at  an  elevation  of  9000 
feet,  and  returned  home.  Their  clothing  consisted  of 
a narrow  strip  of  tappa  tied  round  the  loins,  and  a 
scanty  blanket  of  the  same  material  over  the  shoul- 
ders— leaving  the  body,  arms  and  legs,  entirely  naked 
and  exposed.  Such  apparel  could  not  be  comfortable 
where  the  thermometer  falls  to  37  deg.,  particularly 
to  those,  who,  from  childhood,  had  been  accustomed 
to  a temperature  of  from  70  to  80  degrees. 

At  sunset,  one  of  the  residents  returned  from  the 
summit,  and  informed  us  that  Longley  had  been  found, 
17 


194 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


crawling  on  his  hands  and  knees  over  the  rocks.  He 
said  he  had  been  lying  near  the  track,  and  that  he 
had  frequently  seen  people  passing  and  repassing  close 
to  him,  but  that  he  was  unable  to  travel,  and  conse- 
quently had  been  exposed  to  the  cold  and  rain  for 
three  days  and  nights. 


CHAPTER  XIII, 


Ascent  of  the  Mountain  continued — The  Lava — Fatigue  and 
Exposure  of  the  Journey — Descent  into  the  Crater — The  Ba- 
sin— Severity  of  the  Weather — Return  to  the  Ship — Visit  of 
the  Chief. 

“ Pleasing  were  many  scenes,  but  most  to  me, 

The  solitude  of  vast  extent,  untouched 

By  the  hand  of  art,  where  nature  sowed  herself, 

And  reaped  her  crops ; — whose  garments  were  the  clouds. 

Whose  organ-choir,  the  voice  of  many  waters  j 
Whose  banquets,  morning  dews  j whose  lovers,  flowers  5 
Whose  orators,  the  thunderbolts  of  God} 

Whose  palaces,  the  everlasting  hills  ; 

Whose'  ceiling,  heaven's  unfathomable  blue  ; 

And  from  whose  rocky  turrets,  battled  high, 

Prospects  immense  spread  out  on  all  sides  around. 

Lost  now  between  the  welkin  and  the  main, 

Now  walled  with  the  hills  that  slept  above  the  storm/" 

The  road  above  our  encampment  grew  more  pre- 
cipitous and  uneven,  and  as  we  passed  up  the  moun- 
tain, the  weather  grew  rapidly  colder.  We  stopped  at 
Longley’s  tent,  and  found  him  slowly  improving;  af- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


195 


terward  we  proceeded  to  the  middle  station,  under 
Lieut.  Alderi.  From  here  we  went  to  the  last  en- 
campment of  the  seamen,  visiting  on  our  way  a spa- 
cious cave,  containing  a large  pond  of  water.  This 
pond  was  frozen  over,  the  ice  of  which  was  two  or 
three  feet  thick,  while  large  icicles  were  hanging  from 
the  roof.  It  was  here  that  we  first  discovered  snow : 
it  had  drifted  into  the  crevices  of  the  lava,  giving  it  a 
peculiar  aspect  of  fleecy  whiteness. 

The  more  prominent  parts  of  the  lava  were  bare. 
When  we  reached  the  last  encampment  of  the  seamen, 
the  weather  and  mountains  were  alike  wintry  and 
dreary ; the  black  masses  of  lava  were  contrasted 
with  the  drifts  of  snow,  and  a strong,  piercing  wind 
from  the  westward,  sweeping  along  the  sides  of  the 
mountain,  howled  among  the  spires  and  cones  of  lava, 
like  Boreas  among  the  shorn  branches  of  a forest  in  a 
North  American  winter.  In  many  places  the  lava 
was  piled  in  detached  masses,  bearing  an  exact  re- 
semblance to  the  cinders  from  a blacksmith’s  forge. 
Sometimes  these  fields  of  climpers , as  they  are  called, 
are  bare  to  the  extent  of  several  miles.  When  we 
left  the  encampment  of  the  seamen,  we  were  obliged 
to  travel  over  a field  of  them,  at  least  a mile  and  a quar- 
ter in  extent.  We  arrived  at  head  quarters  about  3 
o’clock,  P.  M.,  when  the  wind  was  so  strong  that  we 
all  commenced  building  a strong  wall  as  high  as  we 
could  reach,  with  these  climpers,  to  protect  the  tents 
from  the  force  of  the  wind.  The  commodore  and 
Mr.  Eld  worked  with  us,  and  as  hard  as  the  best  of 
us.  The  markee  of  the  commodore  was  pitched  with- 
in thirty  yards  of  the  largest  crater,  on  the  summit. 
This  crater  was  then  dormant;  no  fire  was  visible 


196 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


about  it,  but  through  several  fissures  in  and  about  it, 
there  were  constantly  emitted  streams  of  sulphurous 
smoke  and  hot  ashes,  a positive  proof  of  the  fiery  state 
of  the  regions  below,  sooner  or  later  to  burst  forth  in 
eruptions  from  this  crater.  It  is  nine  miles  in  circum- 
ference, by  three  in  diameter,  and  about  1000  feet 
deep.  The  bottom  is  rough  and  black ; the  sloping 
sides,  nearly  to  the  bottom,  are  covered  with  snow. 
At  night,  one  of  the  tents  made  of  new  cotton  canvas, 
was  rent  several  feet  by  the  force  of  the  tempest  above, 
notwithstanding  the  protection  of  the  wall.  It  was 
not  a steady  breeze,  but  would  one  minute  blew  a liv- 
ing gale,  and  the  next  a perfect  calm  ensued. 

At  sunrise,  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  I left  head- 
quarters and  returned  to  the  lower  station,  under 
Lieut.  Budd,  at  which  time  Longley  was  ordered  to 
be  brought  down  to  our  encampment.  In  consequence 
of  the  peculiar  state  of  the  weather,  the  sudden  transi- 
tion from  a mild  climate  to  that  of  great  severity,  to- 
gether with  our  extraordinary  fatigue  and  exposure, 
there  was  considerable  sickness  among  our  number. 
One  after  another  had  fallen  victims,  and  the  sick  list 
was  presenting  a fearful  aspect.  We  had  found  the 
natives  of  little  service  to  us,  after  reaching  that  part 
of  the  mountain  where  the  cold  was  sensibly  in- 
creased. Our  labors  had  necessarily  become  very  ar- 
duous. 

The  ascent,  owing  to  the  rough  surface  of  the  lava, 
was  certain  destruction  to  shoe  leather.  We  often 
wore  out  one  pair  of  shoes  per  week ; in  consequence 
of  this,  several  of  the  seamen,  being  entirely  destitute 
of  shoes,  were  ordered  by  the  commodore  to  remain 
until  shoes  should  arrive  from  the  ship.  Ninety-five 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


197 


natives  arrived  on  the  30th,  from  the  ship,  with  pro- 
visions. On  the  same  day,  orders  came  down  from 
the  commodore,  to  break  up  the  middle  station. 
Lieut.  Alden,  who  had  command  there,  was  ordered 
to  the  lower  station,  and  Lieut.  Budd  of  the  latter, 
was  ordered  to  the  summit.  We  immediately  began 
to  move  the  provisions  from  the  lower  station  up  to 
the  summit,  with  the  stores  which  were  in  the  posses- 
sion of  Mr.  Budd,  who  remained  at  the  middle  station 
until  the  next  morning.  Our  elevation  was  11,500 
feet  at  this  time. 

We  struck  the  tents  at  the  middle  station,  and  re- 
moved them  to  the  summit  on  the  following  day. 
The  instruments  were  then  taken  up,  and  the  day 
was  passed  in  setting  them  up,  and  pitching  our  tents. 
We  had  then  reached  an  elevation  of  13,000  feet. 
Here  the  weather  was  excessively  cold,  yet  there  was 
a clear  and  invigorating  atmosphere.  We  were  forci- 
bly reminded  of  the  propriety  of  making  immediate 
improvements  around  our  tents,  preparatory  to  an  ex- 
posure to  the  rigors  of  the  wintry  weather,  and  chill- 
ing blasts  of  our  elevated  position. 

At  9 o’clock,  A.  M.,  two  seamen  went  down  into  the 
crater,  and  at  half  past  11,  two  more  of  us  followed 
them.  The  path  down  leads  over  beds  of  climpers, 
and  the  innumerable  wide  and  deep  gaps  told  most 
plainly  the  violent  convulsions  of  the  earth,  while  in 
the  act  of  emitting  from  its  bosom  its  stores  of  liquid 
fire.  After  descending  the  first  precipice,  of  a height 
little  less  than  two  hundred  feet,  we  traveled  over  an 
extensive  bed  of  lava,  composed  of  beautiful  colors, 
and  in  every  shape  that  the  imagination  can  conjec- 
ture ; — sometimes  like  the  ruffled  bosom  of  the  oce,an, 
17* 


198 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


sometimes  rising  in  cones,  and  at  other  times  piled  up 
in  rugged  and  uneven  masses,  but  every  where  rent 
by  wide  and  deep  gaps.  We  traveled  about  two 
miles,  when  we  approached  the  brink  of  the  crater  at 
the  south-west  corner.  The  descent  was  extremely 
dangerous  on  this  side ; the  hank  was  sloping,  but 
very  steep,  and  composed  of  loose  masses  of  broken 
lava,  in  color  resembling  the  granite  of  Massachusetts. 
The  height  of  this  part  above  the  bottom  of  the  crater, 
was  at  least  eight  hundred  feet,  and  gave  some  idea 
of  the  danger  of  the  ascent.  I suppose  that  in  de- 
scending this  eight  hundred  feet,  the  base  would  not 
exceed  two  hundred  feet  from  a perpendicular.  To 
start  one  of  these  loose  stones  would  have  been  in- 
evitable destruction  to  the  adventurer,  but  we  had 
started  to  go  to  the  bottom,  and  we  did  not  intend  to 
relinquish  our  plan.  We  began  the  descent,  and  in 
half  an  hour  were  safely  landed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
crater.  As  we  descended,  the  experiment  was  made 
still  more  dangerous  by  patches  of  snow  that  covered 
many  chasms,  and  by  shelving  over  the  larger  masses 
of  lava,  would  have  deceived  the  traveler  to  his  inevi- 
table destruction,  but  for  our  constant  and  extreme 
caution. 

Having  accomplished  about  two  thirds  of  the  de- 
scent, we  came  upon  a fissure  in  the  bank,  from  which 
a column  of  hot  steam  was  constantly  emitted ; the 
snow  around  this  was  discolored  as  it  fell  by  the  heat 
of  the  steam,  and  under  its  protection  a beautiful  crop 
of  green  herbs  and  lovely  flowers  was  growing,  sin- 
gularly contrasted  with  snow  and  the  grey  appear- 
ance of  the  rocks  around  it.  About  150  feet  below 
this  little  plat  of  verdure,  we  came  upon  a small 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


199 


round  hole  about  three  inches  in  diameter,  from 
which  issued  a strong  current  of  hot  air  without 
steam,  but  bringing  with  it  a large  quantity  of  hot 
ashes.  The  fire  had  burst  from  the  sides  of  the  cra- 
ter, within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  top,  during  the 
last  eruption,  and  poured  its  floods  of  liquid  fire  into 
the  crater,  overleaping  in  its  descent,  a precipice  of  at 
least  200  feet  perpendicular,  into  a basin  of  about  one. 
acre  in  extent.  When  the  basin  filled,  it  flowed  down 
into  the  bottom  of  the  crater.  The  lava  in  this  basin 
was  a beautiful  shining  olive  color,  but  it  was  brittle, 
and  in  walking  over  a heap  of  charcoal  when  we 
reached  the  bottom,  the  scene  was  awfully  grand  and 
majestic.  From  the  surface,  the  bottom  looked  even 
and  smooth,  but  when  we  stood  on  the  bottom  noth- 
ing could  exceed  the  wildness  and  sublimity  of  the 
scene,  and  we  saw  a good  illustration  of  the  awful 
power  of  the  subterraneous  fires.  Rocks  weighing 
5000  or  6000  tons  were  tossed  one  on  the  other  fifty 
or  sixty  feet,  with  apparently  the  same  ease  that  a 
pettish  child  would  toss  its  toys  about.  The  bottom, 
like  the  surface,  was  full  of  fissures  and  chasms,  from 
which  the  steam  was  rushing  with  a hissing  sound, 
like  a huge  engine  letting  off  its  steam,  and  which,  to 
men  in  our  situation,  was  not  altogether  pleasing. 

We  spent  about  an  hour  in  collecting  specimens  of 
different  colored  lava.  When  we  were  coming  out 
I trod  on  a piece  of  lava,  which  at  first  sounded  hol- 
low, then  crushed  beneath  my  weight ; on  removing 
some  of  the  pieces.  I found  there  was  a large  space 
filled  with  glauber  salts  and  sulphur.  These  drugs 
abound  in  great  quantities  in  these  craters.  At  half 
past  4 o’clock  we  reached  the  encampment. 


200 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


On  the  4th  of  Jan.  the  weather  was  colder  than  it 
had  been  previously ; the  thermometer  had  fallen  to 
18  degrees.  We  hastened  our  observations  as  much 
as  circumstances  would  permit,  so  that  our  stay  might 
not  be  unnecessarily  protracted.  The  elevation  of 
this  mountain  has  long  been  the  subject  of  dispute ; 
the  English  admeasurements  run  from  13  to  17000 
feet, — by  ours  the  height  is  established  at  something 
over  13,000  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

There  were  indications  of  a change  in  the  weather; 
it  became  rather  thick  and  hazy,  while  the  severity 
of  the  cold  had  somewhat  diminished.  Another  cra- 
ter was  found  which  was  in  a south-westerly  direc- 
tion from  the  principal  one.  Preparations  were  im- 
mediately made  for  its  measurement,  but  from  the 
unfavorableness  of  the  weather  our  operations  were 
considerably  retarded.  We  had  an  occasional  fall  of 
sleet,  and  a slight  snow  storm. 

A party  of  seamen  came  up  from  the  lower  station 
with  provisions,  wood  and  fruit.  The  weather  being 
too  cold  for  the  pendulum,  the  commodore  ordered 
the  pendulum  house  thatched  with  long  grass  from 
the  prairie.  This  house  had  a heavy  “fearnaught” 
cover  over  it,  and  a tent  of  best  cotton  canvas  over 
that;  the  thatching  was  to  go  between  the  “fear- 
naught57  and  the  house. 

It  is  impossible  to  place  a sailor  in  a situation  that 
will  deprive  him  of  his  mirth  and  jolity ; exposed  as 
he  is  to  the  most  sudden  extremes  of  climate,  yet  no 
heat  can  scorch,  or  cold  congeal  the  ardor  of  his  tem- 
perament;  he  meets  with  every  kind  of  danger  with 
the  utmost  coolness.  I have  seen  the  orders  of  Com- 
modore Wilkes  while  in  the  greatest  emergency,  amid 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


201 


ice  and  snow  of  the  Antarctic,  obeyed  with  the  same 
cheerful  alacrity  as  if  the  ship,  at  that  time,  had  been 
lying  becalmed  within  the  tropics.  Nor  is  it  on  the 
ocean  alone  that  the  sailor  can  he  useful;  here  at 
Owhyhee,  where  the  men  who  had  been  all  their  lives 
on  shore,  at  an  elevation  of  9000  feet,  the  seamen 
came  up  the  mountain,  “fisted”  the  instruments — as 
“jack”  has  it — and  “walked”  them  up  to  the  sum-* 
mit,  laughing,  singing  and  joking  each  other  with  as 
much  contempt  of  the  toil  as  if  the  whole  band  had 
been  sent  on  a party  of  pleasure;  and  I think  that 
very  few  of  our  American  farmers  would  take  these 
rugged  climpers  and  lay  more  uniform  or  more  per- 
manent walls  than  those  which  the  seamen  built 
round  the  encampment  on  the  summit  of  Mouna  Roa. 

The  whole  encampment  was  covered  with  snow  on 
the  morning  of  the  8th.  After  sunrise,  however,  be- 
ing quite  clear  and  pleasant,  this  soon  disappeared, 
and  we  were  able  to  continue  our  observations.  At 
night  the  weather  became  more  unfavorable ; it  was 
wintry,  dark  and  tempestuous,  while  a strong  wind 
blew  from  the  south-west.  During  this  time,  our 
house  had  blown  down  and  the  snow  was  falling 
rapidly.  The  morning  of  the  9th  the  sun  arose  clear 
and  bright ; the  wind  had  died  away  and  the  clouds 
looked  like  a vast  field  of  wool,  for  below  us  every 
thing  was  tranquil  and  pleasant.  Some  of  the  tents 
were  injured  during  the  night,  and  a barometer  and 
several  thermometers  were  destroyed  by  the  force  of 
the  tempest. 

During  our  stay  upon  this  lofty  and  desolate 
mountain,  we  were  exposed  to  many  hardships,  and 
were  subject  to  frequent  and  sudden  changes  of  tern- 


202 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


perature.  The  winds  were  cold  and  boisterous,  often 
tempestuous.  The  pelting  storms  of  mingled  snow 
and  sleet  rendered  our  situation  exceedingly  unpleas- 
ant. The  snow  was  carried  high  in  the  air  by  the 
furious  blasts  which  howled  among  those  bleak, 
craggy  peaks  and  frightful  chasms,  giving  to  the 
scenery  a gloom  and  dreariness  which  cannot  be  easi- 
ly appreciated.  Our  tents  were  fluttering  in  the  strong 
winds,  and  our  instrument  houses  were  scarcely  re- 
paired ere  they  were  rudely  scattered  among  the  rocks 
and  fissures  of  the  summit. 

Aside  from  the  toils  and  dangers  of  our  situation, 
some  of  its  features  were  somewhat  ludicrous.  The 
breeze  was  u cutting  fantastic  capers’7  with  us,  and 
fragments  of  our  houses  were  hurled  furiously  into 
the  air,  falling  far  down  the  rough  and  romantic  sides 
of  the  mountain.  Several  acres  were  literally  be- 
sprinkled with  them,  while  the  “ star  spangled  ban- 
ner ” was  proudly  waving  far  above  this  scene  of  des- 
olation, on  the  brink  of  the  crater. 

As  soon  as  the  necessary  survey  was  completed,  we 
made  preparations  to  break  up  the  encampment,  and 
return  to  a more  congenial  climate.  Accordingly,  the 
instruments  were  packed,  and  the  remnant  of  our 
tents,  houses  and  furniture,  was  collected  and  carried 
down  by  the  natives  and  seamen. 

When  the  last  of  the  seamen  got  outside  of  the 
wall,  Mr.  Budd  gave  orders  to  “ stand  by”  the  colors; 
we  then  gave  three  cheers,  which  were  echoed  back 
by  the  crater,  and  from  the  walls  of  the  encampment. 
With  the  last  cheer,  one  of  our  number  raised  the 
flag  staff,  and  returned  our  salute ; we  gave  him  the 
answering  cheer,  which  he  received  with  a grateful 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


203 


flourish  of  the  colors,  and  then  bore  the  starry  stand- 
ard of  Columbia  from  Pendulum  Peak,  and  probably 
from  the  greatest  elevation  over  which  it  had  ever 
waved.  At  half  past  3 o’clock,  we  had  reached  the 
lower  station  under  Lieut.  Alden,  which  had  formerly 
been  the  station  of  Mr.  Budd, — ten  miles  from  the 
summit.  At  8 o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of 
January,  we  left  Mr.  Alden’s  tent,  and  at  sunset 
reached  the  volcano  of  Keluare,  having  traveled  over 
a serpentine  and  rugged  road  of  at  least  thirty  miles. 
This  distance,  to  a landsman  on  a good  road,  would 
not  be  hard,  but  let  a party  of  landsmen  be  accus- 
tomed to  the  narrow  limits  of  a ship’s  decks  for  two 
or  three  years,  and  then  let  them  take  forty  or  forty- 
five  pounds  on  their  shoulders  and  attempt  to  walk 
over  these  climpers  for  thirty  miles  in  eight  hours,  and 
I am  sure,  unless  they  possessed  the  enterprise  and 
perseverance  of  the  sailor,  they  would  not  accomplish 
half  the  distance. 

The  weather  continued  cool,  and  our  accommoda- 
tions were  still  insufficient  to  protect  us  from  the  se- 
verity of  the  season.  The  natives  were  unable  to 
descend  at  an  equal  rate  with  the  seamen,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  our  tents  did  not  all  arrive  in  season 
for  the  night.  Some  of  our  number  took  shelter  Avith 
the  natives,  in  huts  previously  constructed. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  the  wind  was  strong 
from  the  northward,  and  while  cooking  breakfast  one 
of  the  huts  caught  fire,  and  for  a few  moments  threat- 
ened the  destruction  of  the  whole  encampment.  It 
was  really  interesting  to  see  the  manoeuvres  of  the 
seamen  at  that  moment;  some  were  darting  through 
the  flames,  rescuing  the  property  of  their  shipmates ; — 


204 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


some  stationed  themselves  between  the  huts  and  the 
commodore’s  tent,  ready  to  tear  down  the  huts  in 
case  the  fire  could  not  be  extinguished  before  it  reach- 
ed that  point,  and  others  tore  down  the  burning 
building,  and  stopped  the  progress  of  the  flames.  The 
fire  was  soon  extinguished  and  but  little  damage  was 
done. 

The  commodore,  Mr.  Budd  and  Mr.  Eld,  with  a 
party  of  seamen,  went  down  into  the  crater  to  exam- 
ine the  largest  fire.  Mr.  Budd,  with  six  seamen,  went 
down  to  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  where  we  ventured 
within  ten  feet  of  one  of  the  boiling  lakes ; here  the 
surface  of  the  dry  lava  was  so  hot  that  any  wood 
would  ignite  in  a very  short  time.  Dr.  Judd,  on  the 
preceding  day,  ventured  still  nearer,  and  dipped  a fry- 
ing pan  full  of  the  boiling  lava,  hut  the  crust  on  which 
he  stood  bent  like  thin  ice,  and  he  was  only  saved  by 
the  prompt  assistance  of  an  attending  native. 

From  this  station  several  parties  were  sent  in  ad- 
vance to  the  ship.  At  Kappaohee  we  overtook  a party 
that  had  been  previously  despatched.  We  made  a 
short  tarry  at  Paoli,  situated  on  the  route  from  Kap- 
paohee to  the  ship. 

This  town  is  beautifully  situated  in  a wood ; the 
clearing  may  be  about  150  or  200  acres  in  extent, 
highly  fertile,  producing  sugar  cane,  tarro,  breadfruit 
and  potatoes;  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  ginger  are  spon- 
taneous productions  of  the  soil.  At  night  we  arrived 
at  Wyakea.  This  town  is  the  largest  on  this  side  of 
the  island;  it  is  built  at  the  head  of  Byron’s  Bay. 
Next  morning  we  reached  the  ship. 

In  a short  time  afterward,  the  remaining  part  of 
our  company  arrived,  having  followed  the  track  of  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


205 


lava,  as  it  coursed  its  way  from  the  boiling  crater  down 
the  sides  of  the  mountain  and  emptied  itself  at  last 
into  the  ocean.  Several  boats  were  constantly  em- 
ployed in  surveying  the  harbor,  and  gleaning  necessa- 
ry information.  A partial  survey  had  been  made  by 
Lord  Byron  during  the  year  1825,  while  in  the  Frig- 
ate Blonde. 

Having  completed  the  survey  of  the  harbor,  and 
made  such  observations  and  researches  in  the  island 
as  were  thought  necessary,  we  got  underway  and 
stood  to  sea,  bound  to  Lahaina,  island  of  Maui,  the 
residence  of  the  king  and  royal  family.  The  wind 
during  the  day  was  very  light,  therefore  our  progress 
was  slow ; but  as  the  evening  shades  appeared,  envel- 
oping the  surrounding  mountains  in  obscurity,  a gen- 
tle’breeze  sprung  up,  and  on  the  following  morning  by 
sunrise,  the  wild  mountains  which  overhang  the  dis- 
trict of  Lahaina  were  in  distinct  view,  and  by  the  aid 
of  a propitious  breeze  and  a favorable  current,  we  ad- 
vanced rapidly  to  the  anchorage,  where  we  arrived 
about  2 o’clock.  The  place  is  far  more  beautiful 
than  any  we  had  visited  among  the  islands,  and  is 
rendered  doubly  interesting  from  the  fact  that  it  is. 
the  royal  residence,  and  also  the  headquarters  of  the 
mission.  The  entire  district,  stretching  nearly  three 
miles  along  the  sea-side,  is  covered  with  luxuriant 
groves,  not  only  of  the  cocoa-nut,  but  also  of  the 
breadfruit  and  of  the  koa,  an  ornamental  tree,  resem- 
bling, at  a distance,  a large  and  flourishing  full-topped 
apple  tree; — while  banana,  plantain  and  sugar-cane 
are  abundant,  and  extend  almost  to  the  beach,  on 
which  a fine  surf  constantly  rolls.  The  view  here 
presented  was  pure  indian  in  all  its  features,  from  the 
18 


206 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


bare  and  lofty  trunks  of  the  cocoa-nut,  with  their  tuft- 
ed summits,  nodding  like  plumes  in  the  breeze,  to  the 
thatching  of  a rude  hut,  here  and  there  peeping  from 
the  broad  leaves  of  the  plantain,  and  the  richness  of 
more  lowly  growth. 

Lahaina,  Maui,  March  8th,  1841.  This  day  com- 
menced with  great  preparations  to  receive  his  Haw- 
aiian Majesty  on  his  official  visit  to  our  ship.  Life 
lines  were  put  on  the  yards  on  the  preceding  day. 
and  the  men  stationed  for  manning  the  yards. 
There  was  a great  display  of  epaulettes  and  gold  lace, 
swords,  and  cocked  hats.  His  Royal  Highness  made 
his  appearance  at  1 o’clock,  and  when  he  entered  on 
board,  all  were  anxious  to  catch  a glimpse  of  the  royal 
personage.  The  king’s  retinue  was  not  as  numerous 
as  it  was  in  former  times,  but  presented  a great  con- 
trast in  the  manners  and  external  appearance  of  its 
members.  The  king  was  splendidly  dressed  in  full 
uniform,  with  cocked  hat  epaulettes,  sword  and  a 
gold  star  on  his  breast,  while  the  distinguished  chief- 
tains wore  rich  military  uniforms. 

Our  marine  corps  was  paraded  on  the  quarter  deck, 
and  went  through  several  evolutions  of  the  manual 
exercise  for  the  amusement  of  His  Royal  Highness, 
and  our  band,  such  as  it  was,  played  several  fine 
airs.  The  king’s  retinue  was  composed  of  fine  look- 
ing men,  who  conducted  themselves  with  much  pro- 
priety, like  well-bred  gentlemen.  The  king  was 
then  about  twenty-five  or  six  years  of  age,  had  a 
commanding  figure,  appeared  graceful  and  much  at 
his  ease.  He  was  entertained  in  the  cabin  by  Capt. 
W ilkes,  where  a sumptuous  dinner  had  been  prepared 
for  the  occasion. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


207 


When  he  made  his  appearance  over  the  gangway 
the  yards  were  manned,  and  again  when  he  left,  and 
at  the  same  time  the  men  on  the  yards  gave  him  three 
cheers,  which  he  acknowledged  by  waving  his  cocked 
hat.  Before  sitting  down  to  dinner,  he  and  his  suit 
were  conducted  to  the  different  parts  of  the  ship,  ac- 
companied by  Captain  Wilkes  and  most  of  the  offi- 
cers. When  taken  on  the  berth  deck,  it  was  lighted 
fore  and  aft,  and  the  tin  ware  of  the  messes  was 
burnished  bright,  and  set  out  in  front  of  the  dispen- 
sary ; the  yeoman’s  store-room  was  fitted  up  with  un- 
usual splendor  and  all  the  officers’  rooms  on  the  berth 
deck  lighted  up  brilliantly - the  whole,  no  doubt 
made  quite  an  interesting  scene  to  him. 

He  returned  on  shore  at  5 o’clock,  P.  M.,  in  the 
captain’s  gig.  A few  days  after,  he  was  invited  to 
dine  in  the  ward  room,  on  which  occasion  he  was 
not  dressed  in  uniform.  He  was  attended  by  the 
same  noble  personages  who  were  with  him  on  his  offi- 
cial visit.  It  is  said  that  he  makes  free  use  of  wine 
and  ardent  spirits,  but  on  these  occasions  he  drank 
very  sparingly. 

MAUL 

Lahaina,  the  principal  town  on  the  island,  and  resi- 
dence of  the  king  and  royal  family,  is  considered  the 
most  healthy  island  in  the  group.  Lahaina  is  quite  a 
respectable  looking  town  for  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
considering  the  rude  state  of  barbarism  from  which 
they  have  so  lately  emerged.  It  is  on  a semi-circle, 
covering  a handsome  plain,  which  recedes  to  some 
distance,  where  the  land  rises  abruptly  and  breaks 
into  gulleys  and  broken,  romantic  peaks.  The  Roads , 


208 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


in  which  is  the  only  anchorage,  I should  consider  un- 
safe for  vessels  to  lie  at  anchor,  particularly  in  the 
winter  season,  when  the  gusts  of  wind  are  very  vio- 
lent and  frequent ; there  is  also  a strong  current  be- 
tween Mauri  and  Ranai.  The  bottom  is  sandy  and 
very  deep,  and  vessels  are  often  liable  to  drag  by  the 
change  of  the  current.  Lahaua-Luna  may  be  termed 
the  seat  of  knowledge  among  the  islands.  The  high 
school  is  a very  worthy  institution  and  is  well  con- 
ducted. The  scholars  who  have  been  regularly 
taught  in  all  the  branches  here,  are  smart  men,  when 
contrasted  with  the  other  natives,  and  worthy  of 
the  nation  to  which  they  belong.  There  were  ad- 
mitted from  the  first  of  June  to  the  1st  Jan.  1841,  fifty- 
five — two  of  whom  had  completed  their  studies.  The 
different  branches  taught,  are  reading,  writing,  arith- 
metic, natural  theology,  scriptural  history,  geography 
and  mathematics. 

The  building  is  large  and  capacious.  The  spa- 
cious hall  in  the  second  story  is  used  for  the  chapel ; 
the  third  story  is  the  library  or  lecture  room,  contain- 
ing an  apparatus  to  explain  natural  history,  chemis- 
try, &c.  There  are  fine  collections  of  minerals  and 
curiosities,  obtained  from  different  parts  of  the  world, 
with  a tolerably  good  skeleton,  and  one  of  their  ancient 
gods,  placed  behind  the  door  as  you  enter  the  room. 

In  one  of  my  subsequent  visits  on  shore,  I had  the 
satisfaction  of  visiting  the  palace  of  Kamhameha.  I 
felt  much  anxiety  to  see  it,  simply  because  it  had  the 
name  of  a palace.  I saw  four  tolerably  well  finished 
oil  paintings,  representing  Alexander  the  Great,  field 
marshal  Blucher,  Tamehameha  ii.  and  his  wife,  who 
died  in  England. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


209 


We  shipped  several  men  out  of  the  fort,  who  had 
been  confined  here  for  several  months  to  hard  labor. 
This  is  one  of  the  wise(?)  laws  enacted  by  Mr.  Rich- 
ards, the  king’s  secretary  and  adviser,  and  approved 
by  the  king.  If  one  half  of  the  stories  respecting  Mr. 
Richards  be  true,  and  if  there  is  any  law  to  punish 
men  for  crimes,  it  is  highly  probable  that  if  he  had  not 
come  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  he  might  have  had  an 
opportunity  to  serve  a portion  of  his  time  in  the  State 
Prison,  or  to  labor  in  chains. 


CHAPTER  XIV- 


Visit  of  the  Missionaries — Survey  of  the  Harbor — Embarkation — 
Arrival  at  the  Columbia  River — Description — Arrival  at  Pro- 
tection Island — Survey — Natives — Admiralty  Inlet — Meteor — ■ 
Observance  of  the  “ 4th  ” — Accident. 


■“  As  yet,  amid  this  elemental  war 
That  scatters  desolation  from  afar, 

Nor  toil,  nor  hazard,  nor  distress  appear 
To  sink  the  seamen  with  unmanly  fear. 

Though  their  firm  hearts  no  pageant  honor  boasts, 

They  scorn  the  wretch  that  trembles  at  his  post  5 
Who  from  the  face  of  danger  strives  to  turn, 

Indignant  from  the  social  hour  they  spurn. 

No  future  ills  unknown,  their  souls  appal, 

They  know  no  danger,  or  they  scorn  it  all ! 

A short  repose  alone  their  thoughts  implore, 

Their  harassed  powers  by  slumber  to  restore.” 

On  the  12th  of  March,  we  were  favored  with  a 
visit,  which  differed  essentially  from  many  former 
18* 


210 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ones,  in  which  the  pomp  and  display  of  “ crowned 
heads  ” formed  some  of  the  more  prominent  features. 
Our  visitors  on  this  occasion,  were  the  missionaries 
and  their  families.  We  could  but  observe  the  con- 
trast. In  one  case,  there  was  a gaudy  display  of  glit- 
tering toys, — indexes  of  the  degree  of  refinement  and 
taste  of  the  wearers — and  in  the  other,  a “ crown  of 
righteousness”  was  possessed,  whose  beauty  shall 
never  fade  away.  One  governed  by  force  of  arms, 
physical  superiority,  the  other  moulded  the  soul, 
bringing  all  into  subservience  to  the  “ law  of  love.” 
During  our  stay  here,  the  surveys  were  commenced 
as  usual.  On  one  of  these  excursions  the  Leopard 
was  lost ; the  crew  were  rescued,  though  they  very 
narrowly  escaped  a watery  grave.  These  were  soon 
completed,  and  preparations  were  made  to  embark. 
At  8 o’clock,  A.  M.,  on  the  16th,  we  got  underway, 
and  directed  our  course  to  the  Columbia  River.  The 
services  of  Mr.  Edwin  Butler,  an  American,  had  been 
secured  as  a pilot,  previously  to  leaving  the  island. 
The  first  few  days  of  our  voyage  passed  off  very 
pleasantly ; the  weather  was  decidedly  fine.  In  a 
short  time,  however,  it  gradually  grew  cooler,  render- 
ing extra  clothing  necessary.  The  only  objects  to 
beguile  the  tedious  monotony  of  the  hours,  were  the 
blue  sky  above,  and  the  ocean  beneath,  through  which 
we  were  ploughing,  and  now  and  then  a lonely  bird 
of  the  aquatic  species,  flying  over  our  vessel,  to  let  us 
know  we  were  not  alone.  Some  days  after  our  ein- 
baikation,  all  hands  were  called  to  muster,  and  the 
rules  and  regulations  of  the  Exploring  Expedition 
■were  read,  for  the  information  of  those  men  who 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


211 


shipped  at  Oahee,  and  such  as  probably  never  heard 
them  before. 

At  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  heard 
the  cheerful  cry  of  “ land  ho  ! ” from  the  mast  head. 
We  had  a fine  breeze,  and  every  prospect  of  reaching 
our  intended  haven,  but 

“ Disappointments  lurk  in  many  a prize, 

As  bees  in  honey  ; that  sting  with  surprise.” 

At  10  o’clock,  we  entered  a strong  tide  rip,  and  soon 
after  came  within  sight  of  the  Columbia  River.  The 
wind  was  then  moderate,  but  had  been  blowing  very 
fresh  the  day  previous ; when  standing  close  in  we 
found  the  bar  breaking  furiously  entirely  across  it. 
Capt.  Wilkes  consulted  Mr.  Butler,  the  pilot,  who  ad- 
vised him  to  stand  off,  for  he  considered  it  unsafe  at 
that  time  to  attempt  an  entrance. 

The  river  enters  the  Pacific  between  two  points  of 
land,  one  on  the  north  called  Cape  Disappointment, 
or  Cape  Hancock,  in  lat.  46  deg.  18  min. ; the  other 
is  called  Point  Adams,  which  is  seven  miles  south- 
east from  the  former.  From  each  of  these  points,  a 
sand  bar  runs  into  the  water,  above  which  the  waves 
of  the  Pacific,  on  the  one  side,  and  the  torrents  of  the 
Columbia  on  the  other,  meet  with  terrific  violence, 
producing  a most  formidable  line  of  breakers.  These 
circumstances  render  the  entrance  and  departure  of 
vessels  hazardous  at  all  seasons,  and  almost  impossi- 
ble when  the  winds  are  high.  The  depth  of  water 
between  the  bars,  is  thirty  feet  at  the  lowest ; no  ves- 
sel drawing  more  than  fourteen  feet,  can,  however, 
proceed  far  up  the  river,  on  account  of  the  irregulari- 


212 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ties  of  the  channel.  The  river,  like  others  in  North 
America,  is  said  to  abound  in  fish,  particularly  in  sal- 
mon, which  ascend  all  its  branches,  even  up  to  the 
Blue  Mountains,  affording  the  principal  means  of  sub- 
sistence to  all  the  natives  along  the  coast;  many  from 
the  interior  also  repair  to  this  river  in  the  fishing  sea- 
son, for  the  purpose  of  procuring  their  winter’s  sup- 
ply. 

The  land  about  the  sea-coast  is  moderately  high, 
but  at  a short  distance  in  the  interior  it  is  very  moun- 
tainous ; from  the  appearance  of  the  gigantic  trees, 
however,  I am  of  the  opinion  that  the  soil  must  be 
good. 

On  the  following  day,  April  29th,  we  squared  away 
for  Puget  Sound,  distant  120  miles  north-east  from 
Columbia  River.  We  proceeded  on  our  course  with 
a fine  breeze,  but  had  thick  weather  until  11  o’clock, 
when  we  were  suddenly  arrested  by  the  cry  of 
“ breakers  on  the  lee  bow ! ” It  was  reported  to 
Capt.  Wilkes,  who  lost  no  time  in  getting  upon  deck, 
at  which  time  all  the  studding  sails  were  taken  in, 
and  the  ship  hauled  “close  on  a wind;”  shortly  after, 
we  sounded,  and  found  that  we  were  in  five  fathoms 
of  water.  At  this  time  we  passed  the  points  of  rocks 
not  more  than  a stone’s  throw  distant.  Had  we  con- 
tinued our  course  for  five  minutes  longer,  we  must 
have  been  dashed  in  pieces  against  the  rocks,  and  as 
the  result  of  such  a circumstance,  inevitable  death 
must  have  been  the  consequence. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th,  the  weather  was  still 
foggy?  so  much  so  indeed,  that  we  could  not  venture 
to  run  in  for  the  land.  We  saw  an  abundance  of 
geese  and  ducks  flying  in  every  direction.  At  10 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


213 


o’clock,  the  weather  clearing  up  a little,  we  made  sail 
and  stood  in  for  Puget  Sound.  At  4 o’clock  we 
passed  Cape  Flattery  and  entered  the  Straits  of  Juan 
de  Fuca.  The  shores  are  composed  of  low  sandy 
cliffs,  overhanging  beaches  of  sand  or  stones;  from 
them  the  land  ascends  gradually  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  which  rises  abruptly  to  a great  height  with- 
in a few  miles.  The  country  here  is  thickly  wooded, 
but  affords  but  little  variety  in  its  growth,  being  prin- 
cipally cedar  and  spruce,  some  of  which  are  very 
lofty. 

During  the  evening  several  canoes  passed  near  us 
with  indians  in  them,  who  seemed  very  anxious  that 
we  should  heave  to  for  them ; several  attempted  to 
catch  hold  of  the  ship,  but  were  unsuccessful.  Their 
dress  consisted  of  a skin,  thrown  over  the  shoulders 
and  fastened  round  the  neck,  leaving  the  lower  ex- 
tremities bare. 

We  continued  to  beat  in  this  sound  with  a head 
wind  until  the  2d  of  May,  when  we  were  favored 
with  a fine  wind;  we  made  sail  and  at  8 o’clock 
passed  Protection  Island,  and  in  about  an  hour  after- 
ward, came  to  anchor  in  thirty  fathoms  of  water  in 
the  harbor  of  Port  Discovery.  This  is  the  only  har- 
bor immediately  on  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  and 
is  situated  near  the  south-east  angle.  It  is  safe  for 
ships  of  any  size ; it  runs  southward  from  the  straits 
into  the  land  and  is  defended  from  the  violence  of  the 
waves  by  Protection  Island,  which  stretches  partly 
across  its  entrance  on  the  north.  Vancouver  says  in 
his  book,  “ when  he  was  engaged  in  surveying  these 
straits,  that  he  never  had  occasion  to  anchor,  but 


214 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


always  hauled  close  in  to  the  banks  and  made  fast  to 
a tree.” 

Soon  after  coming  to  anchor  we  were  visited  by  a 
canoe  having  in  it  two  indians ; one  of  them  came  up 
the  gangway  and  asked,  in  broken  English,  if  we 
were  from  Boston.  This  led  us  to  believe  that  the 
first  American  vessel  trading  here,  was  from  that 
place,  as  the  indians  seemed  to  know  of  no  other  place 
in  the  United  States.  They  called  all  of  us  Bosto- 
nians, while  they  called  the  English  King  George. 

On  the  morning  of  May  3d,  at  daylight,  several 
boats  were  sent  on  surveying  duty.  The  land  every 
where  in  the  neighborhood  is  moderately  high,  very 
broken  and  thickly  covered  with  wood.  The  moun- 
tains in  the  interior  are  very  high,  and  present  quite 
a variety  in  their  shape  and  appearance ; the  tops  of 
some  are  seen  above  the  clouds,  which  are  covered 
with  everlasting  snow,  and  afford  a striking  contrast 
to  the  valleys  near  the  sea,  which  are  covered  with 
verdure,  and  trees  in  full  bloom. 

We  were  at  this  time  on  our  native  continent, 
although  more  than  three  thousand  miles  from  the 
place  of  our  birth,  yet  I could  not  resist  the  sensations 
kindled  by  the  remembrance  of  ‘‘dear  home;”  all  the 
emotions  incident  to  natural  attachment  and  early 
prejudices  played  around  my  heart. 

We  had  been  literally  surrounded  with  canoes  all 
the  morning;  most  of  them  were  loaded  with  a variety 
of  fish,  venison  and  bears’  meat,  all  of  which  they 
bartered  at  very  moderate  prices,  in  exchange  for 
knives,  fishhooks,  old  clothes  and  files,  the  principal 
articles  for  which  they  seemed  anxious.  They  par- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


215 


ticularly  valued  our  files;  for  one  we  could  purchase 
a salmon  weighing  upwards  of  forty  pounds. 

These  natives  are  a meagre,  dirty  race  of  savages; 
they  have  no  fixed  habitations,  but,  like  a snail,  carry 
their  houses  with  them,  and  seldom  stop  more  than 
two  days  in  a place.  They  all  have  their  heads 
flattened  by  compression  in  infancy,  which  disfigures 
them  to  such  a degree  that  they  look  more  like  mon- 
sters than  human  beings.  They  have  small  eyes, 
flat  noses  and  wear  their  hair  long,  both  men  and 
women. 

Our  stay  at  this  place  was  not  of  long  continuance. 
At  dawn,  May  6th,  we  made  necessary  preparations, 
and  sailed,  beating  out  of  the  harbor.  After  clearing 
the  point  which  forms  the  harbor,  we  changed  our 
course  and  ran  down  the  coast  to  the  eastward,  a 
distance  of  about  twelve  miles  from  Protection  Island, 
from  which  point  we  entered  Admiralty  Inlet,  which 
penetrates  the  continent  southward  from  the  straits 
more  than  ninety  miles,  terminating  near  the  forty- 
seventh  degree  of  latitude,  in  a bay  named  by  Van- 
couver, Puget  Sound.  Hood’s  canal  is  a branch  of 
this  inlet,  nearly  opposite  which  we  came  to  anchor, 
the  wind  and  tide  being  against  us. 

The  country  surrounding  Admiralty  Inlet  is  beau- 
tiful, fertile,  and  in  every  respect  agreeable;  and  the 
bay,  with  its  numerous  arms  stretching  into  the  inte- 
rior, must  offer  great  advantages  for  commercial  in- 
tercourse hereafter.  The  country  here  is  extensively 
covered  with  trees  of  a gigantic  growth,  and  from 
their  appearance,  I think  some  are  well  adapted  to 
ship  and  house  building.  We  anchored  opposite  a 
piece  of  table  land  about  two  miles  in  circumference, 


216 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


the  most  beautiful  spot  I ever  beheld.  It  was  per- 
fectly level,  as  if  made  so  by  artificial  workmanship, 
covered  with  green  grass  about  two  feet  high,  and 
variegated  with  different  kinds  of  shrubbery,  and 
fringed  with  a variety  of  vegetation.  It  affords  a 
delightful  prospect,  especially  in  this  high  latitude, 
and  would  make  a neat  location  for  a village  or  city, 
and  probably,  at  some  future  period,  will  become  a 
flourishing  settlement. 

We  got  underway  the  next  day,  and  commenced 
beating  up  the  bay  for  Nasqually,  and  on  the  11th  of 
May,  came  to  anchor  off  Nasqually,  at  the  head  of 
Puget  Sound.  Soon  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  were 
visited  by  Mr.  Anderson,  agent  for  the  “ Hudson’s 
Bay  Company,”  at  this  station.  Capt.  McNeal, 
commander  of  the  company’s  steam  boat  Beaver ; Mr. 
Wilson  of  the  American  Mission  to  the  Oregon  Ter- 
ritory, and  Doct.  Richmond,  physician  to  the  mission, 
comprised  the  whole  number  of  residents  here,  except 
some  of  the  half-breed  race,  and  a few  Canadians, 
servants  of  the  “ Hudson’s  Bay  Company.” 

On  the  17th,  the  expedition  of  boats  under  Lieut. 
Case,  left  the  ship  on  a surveying  cruise.  Also  an 
expedition  to  the  interior  of  Oregon  Territory  was 
projected, — composed  of  the  following  gentlemen,  viz. 
Lieut.  Johnson,  Doct.  Pickering,  Naturalist,  Mr. 
Breckenridge,  Horticulturist,  Mr.  Waldron,  and  T.  A. 
Stearns,  O.  M.  G.  The  most  satisfactory  results 
were  anticipated  from  these  competent  gentlemen,  in 
every  department  of  science.  On  the  following  day, 
Capt.  Wilkes,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Drayton  and 
purser  Waldron,  left  the  ship  for  the  Columbia  River. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


217 


At  ten  minutes  past  8 o’clock,  on  the  31st,  a me- 
teor of  immense  magnitude  and  brilliancy  shot  across 
the  heavens  in  a north-west  direction,  illuminating 
the  heavens  to  such  an  extent  that  there  was  a resem- 
blance to  a sheet  of  fire,  till  it  nearly  reached  the  hor- 
izon, when  it  exploded,  sending  off  myriads  of  corrus- 
cations  in  every  direction.  When  it  first  commenced 
its  flight,  it  was  exceedingly  slow  in  its  descent,  but 
as  it  increased  its  distance  towards  the  horizon,  it  in- 
creased its  velocity  considerably,  until  it  burst.  Many 
old  seamen  on  board  never  witnessed  a meteor  half  so 
large,  nor  one  whose  light  remained  so  long  visible. 
From  ihe  time  it  was  first  seen  until  it  entirely  disap- 
peared, was  one  hour  and  twenty-jive  minutes. 

On  our  arrival  at  this  place  we  were  expecting 
to  join  the  Peacock  and  Schooner,  but  in  this  we 
were  disappointed ; they  parted  from  us  some  time 
before,  and  were  to  be  at  the  Columbia  River  two 
months  previous  to  that  time.  Fears  were  entertained 
in  reference  to  their  safety.  From  the  importance  of 
this  position  it  was  decided  to  make  critical  surveys 
of  the  harbor  and  its  vicinity.  Accordingly,  tempo- 
rary houses  were  erected  for  that  purpose,  and  other 
necessary  arrangements  made.  The  carpenter  depos- 
ited a sealed  bottle  under  the  corner  of  one  of  the 
houses,  containing  a piece  of  paper  with  the  fallow- 
ing inscription  : — 

“ Though  far  from  our  homes,  yet  still  in  our  land 
True  yankee  enterprise  will  ever  expand, 

And  publish  to  all  each  side  of  the  main, 

We  triumphed  once  and  can  do  it  again. 

A problem,  a problem,  oh  ! hear  great  and  small, 

The  true  owners  of  the  country  are  still  on  the  soil,. 

19 


218 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


While  Jonathan  and  John  Bull  are  growling  together 
For  land  which  by  right  belongs  not  to  either. 

Let  philosophers  listen,  and  solve  the  question 
Which  has  troubled  the  statesmen  of  each  nation, 

By  what  right  the  “ Big  Bull  ” claims  sustenance  here, 
While  he  has  plenty  of  pasturage  elsewhere.” 

Lines  written  by  R.  P.  R, 

Observatory  of  the  U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes,  Charles  Wilkes,  Esq., 
Commander  in  Chief  of  the  U.  S.  S.  S.  and  Exploring  Expe- 
dition, by  Amos  Chick,  of  Portland,  Maine,  Carpenter  of  the  U. 
S.  S.  Vincennes , June , 1841. 

Mr.  Dyes,  assistant  to  the  scientific  corps,  deposited 
in  the  same  bottle  two  pieces  of  American  coin, — one 
a cent  coined  in  1817,  and  the  other  a dime  coined 
in  1838.  The  paper  was  enclosed  in  parchment 
and  well  secured  in  the  bottle. 

On  the  12th  of  June,  Thomas  Harden,  officers’ 
cook,  and  John  McKean,  ship’s  cook,  having  been 
three  days  lost  in  the  woods,  were  found  by  a white 
and  some  indians  who  were  sent  in  search  of  them. 
When  found  they  were  so  exhausted  as  not  to  be  able 
to  walk  to  the  ship ; — horses  were  procured  for  them. 
They  had  eaten  nothing  since  leaving  the  ship. 

July  4th  coming  on  Sunday,  we  celebrated  the  5th, 
commencing  in  the  morning  with  a national  salute  of 
twenty-six  guns,  which  were  fired  at  the  observatory 
on  shore.  Capt.  Wilkes  gave  a dinner  and  invited  the 
officers  to  it.  An  ox  was  roasted  whole  for  the  crew, 
on  a plain  about  one  mile  from  the  ship.  At  9 o’clock, 
every  man  and  officer  was  ordered  on  shore,  except 
Mr.  Yanderford,  who  was  left  in  charge  of  the  ship. 
On  landing,  the  men  proceeded  up  the  hill  to  the  ob- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


219 


servatory,  where  Capt.  Wilkes  was  residing,  there  to 
await  his  orders.  At  10  o’clock  the  procession  was 
formed  and  marched  in  order,  the  starboard  watch  in 
advance,  the  marines  in  the  centre,  and  the  larboard 
watch  bringing  up  the  rear.  We  proceeded  through 
a narrow  strip  of  wood  about  half  a mile,  when  we 
came  to  the  company’s  fort;  there  we  halted  and 
formed  in  front  of  it,  and  gave  three  cheers,  which 
were  returned  by  the  people  in  the  fort,  and  answer- 
ed by  us.  The  procession  was  again  formed  and 
marched  as  before,  about  one  mile  further,  when  we 
came  to  a deep  valley, — crossing  which  we  came  to  a 
plain  several  miles  in  circumference,  in  which  Doct. 
Richmond’s  house  is  situated. 

Here  was  the  place  intended  for  the  exhibitions  of 
the  day  ; various  kinds  of  amusements  were  proposed, 
in  which  Capt.  Wilkes  took  an  active  part.  Every 
thing  went  on  well  for  a time,  and  bade  fair  for  a day 
of  recreation  and  pleasure,  but  soon  an  accident  oc- 
curred, which  could  not  but  disturb  the  feelings  of  all. 
At  12  o’clock,  when  firing  a salute,  Daniel  Whitehorn 
Jr.,  gunner,  while  loading  one  of  the  guns,  it  acci- 
dently discharged,  and  lacerated  his  forearm  very 
seriously.  All  the  integuments,  from  midway  of  the 
forearm  to  the  wrist,  were  blown  otf — the  carpal  ex- 
tremity of  the  ulna  exposed  for  about  two  inches 
upon  the  outer  face.  All  the  tendons  for  about  three 
inches  from  the  carpus  were  much  torn.  The  sur- 
geon having  thoroughly  examined  the  wound,  decided 
that  it  was  his  duty  to  recommend  the  removal  of  the 
limb.  At  the  time  the  accident  happened,  the  weath- 
er was  quite  warm,  and  tetanus  was  to  be  apprehend- 
ed. All  the  large  blood  vessels  were  either  carried 


220 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


away  entirely,  or  much  injured,  and  the  consequences 
of  an  attempt  to  save  the  arm  were  much  to  he  dread- 
ed. Dr.  Richmond,  physician  to  the  mission  family, 
was  called  upon,  who  agreed  in  opinion  with  our  sur- 
geon, that  amputation  was  the  only  means  to  insure 
life.  The  doctors  then  stated  to  the  patient  their 
views  of  the  case,  and  recommended  an  operation. 
He  declined  for  the  present,  and  chose  to  risk  an  at- 
tempt to  save  the  limb. 

The  amusements  proceeded,  but  not  with  that  spirit 
with  which  they  were  commenced ; a deep  melancholy 
seemed  to  mark  the  countenance  of  many.  White- 
horn  was  much  esteemed  by  all  his  shipmates. 

Such  events,  the  sailor  is  often  called  upon  to  wit- 
ness. Perils  and  death  often  surround  him.  Disease 
may  make  a stealthy  approach,  when  far  away  from 
the  comforts  and  endearments  of  home,  and  the  last 
throes  of  expiring  nature  are  witnessed  by  tearful 
shipmates,  and  the  departed  is  consigned  to  his  deep, 
coral  bed,  unhonored  by  the  respects  of  sympathizing 
survivors  in  the  land  of  his  nativity,  and  the  last 
tokens  of  affection,  by  kindred  hearts.  A boom  may 
strike,  a yard  break,  and  a struggling  victim  is  hurled 
into  the  foaming  waves,  to  sink  beneath  its  restless 
waters,  with  no  solacing  word  of  comfort  or  hope,  in 
the  hour  of  conflict.  By  the  frequent  occurrence  of 
such  painful  incidents,  his  sympathies  are  ever  awak- 
ened, and  his  better  nature  constantly  developed.  He 
almost  instinctively  is  taught  to  “ Rejoice  with  those 
that  rejoice,  and  weep  with  those  that  weep.” 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


221 


CHAPTER  XY. 


General  Remarks  on  Nasqually,  -&c. — Return  to  Columbia  Riv- 
er — Point  Dungeness  — Indian  Settlement  — Natives  — San 
Francisco — Inhabitants, 

“ Ungrateful  task  I for  no  asylum  traced, 

A passage  opened  from  the  watery  waste. 

Fate  seemed  to  guard  with  adamantine  mound. 

The  path  to  every  friendly  port  around. 

On  deck  the  watchful  helmsman  cries  aloud, 

4 Secure  your  lives — grasp  every  man  a shroud U 
Roused  from  his  trance  he  mounts  with  eyes  aghast, 

When  o’er  the  ship  in  undulation  vast, 

A giant  surge,  down  rushes  from  on  high, 

And  fore  and  aft,  dissevered  ruins  lie,” 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  AND  REMARKS  ON  NASQUALLY; 

PUGET  SOUND. 

Situated  about  half  a mile  from  the  sound  is  a fort 
or  trading  post,  belonging  to  the  Hudson’s  Bay  Com- 
pany, composed  of  upright  posts  eight  or  ten  feet  high, 
secured  with  trunnels  at  top  and  bottom.  At  the  cor- 
ner, is  a sentry-box  or  house,  large  enough  to  hold 
fifteen  or  twenty  persons,  perforated  with  holes  large 
enough  to  admit  the  muzzle  of  a musket. 

Within  this  stockade  is  a number  of  wooden  houses, 
serving  as  dwellings,  store-houses,  magazines  and 
workshops,  and  also  one  or  two  small  buildings  occu- 
pied by  the  laborers  and  servants.  The  nature  of  the 
country  in  this  region  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  will 
not  admit  of  extensive  cultivation,  and  seems  to  be 
best  adapted  to  a pastoral  life,  especially  in  the  imme-r 
*19 


222 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


diate  vicinity  of  the  streams  and  mountains ; irrigation 
must  be  resorted  to,  if  a large  population  is  to  be  sup- 
ported in  it.  This  country,  which  affords  little  pros- 
pect for  the  tiller  of  the  soil,  is,  perhaps,  one  of  the 
best  in  the  world  for  grazing. 

Every  where,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the  prai- 
ries open  wide,  covered  with  a low  grass  of  a most 
nutritious  kind,  which  remains  good  throughout  the 
year.  In  September  there  are  slight  rains,  at  which 
time  the  grass  commences  a luxuriant  growth,  and  in 
October  and  November,  there  is  an  abundance  of  green 
grass,  which  remains  until  the  ensuing  summer ; about 
June,  it  is  ripe  in  the  lower  plains,  and,  drying  with- 
out being  wet,  is  like  our  hay  in  New  England : in 
this  state,  it  remains  until  the  Autumn  rains  begin  to 
revive  it. 

The  Hudson’s  Bay  Company  has  here  about  one 
thousand  sheep,  six  or  eight  hundreds  of  cattle — all  of 
which  are  in  a thriving  condition.  Wolves  are  very 
numerous  in  this  region  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  and 
are  very  destructive  to  the  sheep  when  they  get  among 
them,  but  the  shepherd  uses  great  caution  in  protect- 
ing the  sheep  from  the  ravages  of  these  ferocious  ani- 
mals. Upwards  of  one  hundred  have  been  killed  by 
them  within  the  last  three  years.  These  animals 
when  pressed  with  hunger,  often  attack  horses,  and  I 
was  told  that  seven  were  eaten  by  them  in  a single 
night,  in  this  immediate  neighborhood.  Foxes,  deer, 
and  bears  are  common,  but  not  so  numerous  as  they 
are  in  Upper  California. 

On  the  evening  of  the  17th  of  July,  having  complet- 
ed the  survey  of  Puget  Sound,  and  its  multifarious 
arms  and  bays,  and  completed  the  series  of  observa- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


223 


tions,  we  got  underway  and  left  our  anchorage  off 
Nasqually,  and  commenced  beating  down  the  bay  for 
Columbia  River.  A surveying  party  was  sent  over 
land  to  meet  us  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  composed 
of  the  following  persons.  Passed  Midshipman  Eld, 
in  charge  of  the  party,  passed  Midshipman  Colvoco- 
ressis,  Mr.  Breckenridge,  Horticulturist,  Simeon  A. 
Stearns,  Q.  M.  S.,  to  assist  in  the  surveys,  with  two 
marines  and  two  seamen.  At  9 o’clock  on  the  same 
evening  we  came  to  anchor,  the  wind  and  tide  being 
against  us.  On  the  following  morning  we  got  under- 
way and  proceeded  on  our  voyage. 

At  2 o’clock,  P.  M.  of  the  22d,  we  came  to  anchor 
off  Point  Dungeness,  in  12  fathoms  of  water.  Imme- 
diately on  coming  to  anchor,  three  boats  were  got 
ready,  and  were  sent  on  surveying  duty  for  three 
days.  Here  we  met  with  the  Brig  Porpoise.  She 
had  been  engaged  in  surveying  this  part  of  the  sound, 
and  Hood’s  Canal,  for  two  months. 

Another  accident  happened  at  this  time  with  pow- 
der. Samuel  Williams,  gunner’s  mate,  was  firing  a 
four  pounder,  for  the  purpose  of  measuring  a base  line 
by  sound ; a spark  had  remained  in  the  gun  after  its 
discharge,  which  communicated  with  the  horn  con- 
taining about  four  pounds  of  powder,  while  in  the  act 
of  priming.  A terrific  explosion  followed,  but,  as  if 
by  some  miraculous  interposition,  no  very  serious  in- 
jury was  done.  His  hands  and  arms  were  burned, 
though  not  badly,  as  the  cuticle  only  was  destroyed. 

At  this  anchorage  our  anchor  was  scarcely  gone, 
before  we  were  literally  surrounded  with  canoes, 
bringing  salmon,  codfish,  and  venison  to  sell,  which 
are  taken  here  in  great  abundance. 


224 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


On  Point  Dungeness,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
settlements  of  indians  seen  any  where  on  the  sound. 
They  have  a stockade  of  considerable  size,  in  which 
they  retreat  when  driven  to  extremities  in  time  of 
war.  Such  a retreat  is  rendered  necessary  from  the 
frequency  of  their  wars  ; and  since  the  most  of  them 
have  obtained  guns  and  ammunition,  they  are  very 
destructive  to  each  belligerent  party.  Their  prisoners 
taken  in  war,  they  do  not  murder  as  many  savages 
do,  but  keep  them  as  slaves,  and  make  them  perform 
all  the  more  laborious  work. 

At  each  corner  of  this  stockade  is  erected  a bust  of 
some  of  their  most  distinguished  chiefs,  roughly 
carved  and  constructed  of  wood ; these  are  venerated 
and  worshiped  by  the  indians.  In  this  place  they 
also  deposited  their  dead,  the  chiefs  always  having  a 
separate  place  allotted  to  them.  Their  Bouri , or 
spirit  house,  is  also  here. 

We  remained  at  this  anchorage  for  six  days,  during 
which  time  we  were  plentifully  supplied  with  salmon, 
venison,  &c.,  by  the  indians. 

On  the  28th  of  July,  we  got  underway  and  proceed- 
ed down  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  bound  to  Co- 
lumbia River.  On  the  2d  of  August  we  were  off  Cape 
Flattery.  After  beating  with  light  and  head  winds 
for  four  days,  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  outer  ex- 
tremity of  the  straits,  opening  into  the  North  Pacific, 
and  were  then  nearly  opposite  Clausette  Harbor,  so 
named  after  a tribe  of  indians  inhabiting  this  part  of 
the  coast.  At  9 o’clock,  a canoe  came  off  to  us,  bring- 
ing fish,  &c.,  for  trade.  In  this  party  was  a chief  of 
some  distinction,  who  stood  erect  in  the  canoe,  no 
doubt  to  render  himself  more  conspicuous.  When  he 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


225 


came  alongside,  Capt.  Wilkes  asked  him  if  he  wished 
to  come  on  board,  to  which  he  replied  in  broken  Eng- 
lish in  the  affirmative ; and  accordingly  he  was  per- 
mitted to  come  on  hoard.  Afterwards  several  others 
were  permitted  to  come  on  board.  One  or  two  of 
them  spoke  a little  English ; the  chief  in  particular, 
spoke  many  words  quite  distinctly.  The  chief  in- 
formed Capt.  Wilkes  that  opposite  to  us  there  was  a 
good  harbor,  and  invited  him  to  go  in  and  anchor. 

The  stature  of  these  people,  like  most  on  this  coast, 
is  much  below  the  general  standard.  The  height  of 
an  old  man  who  came  on  board,  and  who  was  rather 
bent  with  age,  was  about  four  feet  ten  inches,  and 
that  of  the  others  was  about  five  feet.  Their  faces 
are  flat  and  broad,  but  quite  plump  in  the  young  indi- 
viduals ; their  skin  is  smooth, — complexion  not  very 
dark,  except  in  some  who  were  smeared  with  char- 
coal ; their  teeth  were  very  white,  nose  flat  and  broad, 
hair  black,  straight  and  glossy,  and  their  hands  and 
feet  extremely  diminutive.  The  adult  females  are 
quite  as  tall  as  the  men,  being  from  four  feet  eleven 
inches  to  five  feet.  The  features  of  the  children  were 
regular,  their  complexion  clear  and  by  no  means 
dark,  their  eyes  small,  and  although  the  form  of  their 
faces  is  flat,  their  countenances  might  perhaps  be 
considered  pleasing,  according  to  the  ideas  of  beauty 
which  habit  has  taught  us  to  entertain. 

Their  hair,  which  is  jet  black  and  very  long,  hangs 
loosely  about  their  shoulders,  a part  of  it  on  each  side, 
being  carelessly  plaited  and  sometimes  rolled  up  into 
an  awkward  bunch,  instead  of  being  neatly  tied  up 
on  the  top  of  the  head.  Some  of  the  younger  females 
seem  to  have  much  bashfulness  and  timidity,  and 


226 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


differ  very  materially  from  the  women  in  the  South 
Sea  Islands,  in  not  being  tattooed.  The  chief  was 
very  decently  dressed  for  an  indian,  and  was  the  only 
one  in  the  party  who  was.  He  was  attired  in  a thin 
coat  which  had  been  originally  white,  but  was  then 
rather  worse  for  wear,  and  also  a little  dingy, — blue 
cloth  pantaloons,  with  a red  sash  around  the  waist, 
and  over  that  a sash  belt,  composed  of  different  colored 
beads ; also  in  each  ear  a string  of  beads  was  suspend- 
ed. He  was  quite  loquacious,  and  spoke  to  the  cap- 
tain on  many  interesting  subjects  relative  to  the  differ- 
ent tribes  of  indians  with  which  he  was  acquainted. 

At  3 o’clock  we  came  to  anchor  in  Clausette  Har- 
bor;— the  first  ship,  no  doubt,  that  ever  anchored 
here.  It  has  never  been  properly  surveyed,  and  but 
little  has  been  known  even  to  the  fnr  traders,  proba- 
bly on  account  of  the  savage  disposition  of  the  natives, 
with  whom  they  trade  very  cautiously:  they  never 
trust  more  than  half  a dozen  on  their  decks  at  a time. 
Capt.  Wilkes  deemed  it  important  that  it  should  be 
accurately  surveyed,  and  a chart  of  it  made ; there- 
fore two  days  were  occupied  in  its  completion.  The 
harbor  is  small,  but  safe  for  vessels  to  enter,  and  will 
doubtless  prove  a very  useful  retreat  for  vessels  trad- 
ing on  the  coast  when  it  becomes  generally  known. 
On  the  following  day,  after  completing  the  survey,  we 
got  underway  and  stood  out  to  sea. 

At  8 o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the  6th,  we  made 
the  land  near  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River.  W e 

fired  a signal  and  shortly  afterwards  perceived  the 
schooner  Flying  Fish  coming  out  from  the  river  to 
meet  us.  Another  ship  was  also  standing  in  for  the 
harbor  at  the  same  time.  When  the  schooner  was 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


227 


coming  out,  Mr.  Knox,  commander,  saw  that  the  ship 
was  approaching  the  wrong  passage,  and  immediately- 
fired  a shot  across  his  bows,  which  made  him  heave 
to ; he  then  ran  along  side  and  informed  the  captain  of 
his  imminent  danger.  In  a few  moments  more  she 
would  have  shared  the  fate  of  the  Peacock,  as  she 
was  in  the  same  track.  She  proved  to  be  the  Ameri- 
can whale  ship  Orozembo,  bound  into  port  for  the 
purpose  of  recruiting  her  men.  She  was  supplied 
from  our  ship  with  preserved  meats  and  antiscorbutics. 
At  10  o’clock  we  were  boarded  by  Capt.  Hudson,  who 
came  out  in  the  schooner.  We  then  had  the  news 
of  the  wreck  of  the  Peacock  confirmed,  which  hap- 
pened on  Sunday,  the  17th  of  July,  while  attempting 
to  cross  the  bar  at  Columbia  River. 

Captain  Wilkes,  learning  the  fate  of  the  Peacock, 
declined  venturing  over  the  bar  with  his  vessel,  and 
in  the  evening  joined  the  brig  Porpoise,  in  which  ves- 
sel he  proceeded  over  the  bar,  intending  to  survey 
Columbia  River, — leaving  orders  for  us  to  stand  off 
and  on  until  the  Schooner  should  return  on  the  fol- 
lowing day. 

After  an  unusual  delay,  in  consequence  of  bad 
weather,  the  Schooner  arrived,  bringing  twenty  of 
the  Peacock’s  crew,  and  also  Captain  Ringgold,  of 
the  Brig  Porpoise,  who  was  to  take  charge  of  our  ship 
in  the  absence  of  Capt.  Wilkes.  At  twelve  o’clock 
all  hands  were  called  to  muster,  when  Capt.  Ring- 
gold  informed  them  that  he  was  about  to  take  com- 
mand of  them  for  a short  time,  and  hoped  that  their 
conduct  would  merit  a favorable  report  to  Capt. 
Wilkes  on  his  joining  us  at  San  Francisco.  The 


228 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


broad  pendant  was  hauled  down  and  the  coach-whip 
hoisted  in  its  place. 

Shortly  after  we  made  sail  and  squared  with  a fair 
wind  for  Port  San  Francisco,  upper  California,  where 
Captain  Wilkes  intended  to  join  us  in  about  two 
months. 

On  the  12th  August  we  stood  in  for  the  land  and 
took  a view  of  the  land  about  Cape  Blanco,  situated 
in  lat.  38  deg.  north.  The  coast  every  where  presents 
a dreary  prospect ; and  is  composed  of  rocky  cliffs 
and  overhanging  beaches  of  stones  and  sand ; from 
them  the  land  ascends  abruptly  until  it  breaks  into 
mountains  and  ridges,  clothed  in  absolute  sterility. 

The  rains  of  heaven  are  often  withheld  from  here 
for  eight  and  ten  months  at  a time,  at  which  time  the 
sources  of  vegetation  are  dried  up  in  most  places,  ex- 
cept in  some  valleys  which  are  watered  by  streams  ; 
owing  to  this  circumstance  no  prospect  is  here  offered 
to  the  adventurous  husbandman. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  we  were  near  Port  San 
Francisco,  and  at  2 o’clock  crossed  the  bar  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbor,  in  five  fathoms  of  water.  We 
had  a fine  breeze  and  glided  rapidly  and  beautifully 
along.  We  proceeded  up  the  bay  a distance  of  ten 
miles,  and  came  to  anchor  opposite  the  Spanish  set- 
tlement of  Yerba  Bueno,  a settlement  so  called  by 
the  Romish  missionaries  who  settled  it.  There  were 
at  anchor  also  two  American  ships,  and  two  brigs, 
one  American,  and  the  other  Mexican. 

Shortly  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  were  visited  by 
Capt.  Phelps,  of  the  ship  Alert  of  Boston,  who  in- 
formed us  of  the  death  of  William  H.  Harrison,  Pres- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


229 


ident  of  the  United  States,  which  occurred  one  month 
after  taking  the  Presidential  chair. 

We  remained  at  this  anchorage  until  the  16th,  when 
we  got  underway  and  beat  over  to  Sansantito  or 
Whaler’s  harbor,  a distance  of  about  five  miles,  where 
a supply  of  fresh  water  could  be  obtained,  and  also 
fresh  provisions.  We  had  been  plentifully  supplied 
with  fresh  beef,  but  vegetables  were  scarce  and  very 
dear ; the  Spaniards  here,  like  the  indians,  are  too  lazy 
to  cultivate  the  soil. 

A short  description  of  this  region  of  America,  proba- 
bly, may  be  somewhat  interesting. 

San  Francisco,  Upper  California,  is  a deep  bay 
making  into  the  land  on  the  west  coast,  and  is  one  of 
the  discoveries  of  Sir  Francis  Drake  in  1579,  while 
running  along  the  coast  of  America.  He,  however, 
did  not  examine  it,  but  merely  mentions  that  there  is 
such  a place.  There  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  Span- 
iards knew  of  its  existence  long  before  Drake  ever  sail- 
ed in  the  Pacific,  for  while  colonizing  this  country, 
this  place  was  taken  up  as  one  of  their  early  mission- 
ary stations,  to  civilize  and  christianize  the  natives ; 
and  even  to  this  day  there  are  many  remains  of  the 
different  missionary  stations  existing.  To  what  ex- 
tent these  missionaries  succeeded  is  not  known  to  any 
part  of  the  civilized  world,  except  Spain,  whose  inter- 
est it  was  to  keep  every  thing  of  this  nature  a pro- 
found secret ; this  was  also  their  policy  in  reference  to 
their  discoveries  and  interior  researches,  fearing  that 
some  other  country  might  supersede  them,  and  reap 
the  benefits. 

Whether  this  part  of  the  coast  was  ever  thickly  in- 
habited by  the  aborigines  or  not,  I am  unprepared  to 
20 


230 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


say,  but  such  is  the  fact,  that  for  many  miles  in  the  in- 
terior, there  is  scarcely  a native  to  be  seen  now,  except 
an  inmate  of  some  Spanish  dwelling.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  land  in  the  vicinity  of  this  bay  is  moun- 
tainous and  much  broken,  possessing  an  exceedingly 
sterile  appearance.  This,  however,  is  owing,  in  part, 
to  the  severe  drought  which  had  prevailed  for  the  last 
two  years.  The  interior  is  more  fertile  and  produc- 
tive ; wheat,  rye,  barley,  indian  corn  and  beans,  grow 
in  great  abundance  when  cultivated;  all  kinds  of 
garden  vegetables  thrive,  and  particularly  onions, 
which  grow  very  large.  Those  vegetables,  in  most 
cases,  for  the  last  two  years  have  to  be  watered  by 
means  of  irrigation. 

The  entrance  into  the  bay  is  somewhat  narrow ; 
the  land  being  high  on  both  sides  and  much  broken, 
renders  the  scenery  rather  of  a romantic  appearance, 
when  contrasting  the  white  sand  beach  with  the  ster- 
ile hills.  On  the  right  hand,  and  at  a commanding 
distance,  is  a battery,  situated  on  an  elevated  rock, 
which,  if  properly  fortified  and  commanded,  would 
be  able  to  bid  defiance  to  any  number  of  vessels  that 
might  attempt  an  entrance.  A little  beyond,  on  the 
same  side  in  a valley,  is  the  barracks  for  the  men  and 
officers,  belonging  to  the  same.  Within  the  bay  and 
before  you  arrive  at  the  port,  as  it  is  termed,  are  sev- 
eral small  islands,  together  with  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Sacremento,  which  empties  its  waters  among  these 
variegated  islands,  and  gives  the  whole  an  appear- 
ance somewhat  romantic.  As  you  advance,  you 
suddenly  round  a projecting  point,  which  terminates 
in  a peak,  and  forms  a small  indenture  where  vessels 
anchor.  This  little  bay  is  of  a semicircular  form, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


231 


the  land  receding  in  many  places  abruptly,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  there  are  a few  houses,  built  in  the 
European  style,  with  here  and  there  a “rancho”  or 
country  seat. 

Just  back  of  this  place,  at  a distance  of  about 
nine  miles,  is  one  of  those  missions,  which  generally 
supplies  the  port  with  vegetables.  During  the  time 
in  which  this  country  was  subject  to  Spain  its  ports 
were  closed  against  all  foreign  intercourse,  but  since 
it  has  changed  its  masters,  its  ports,  with  certain  re- 
strictions, have  been  open  to  the  commercial  world. 
From  the  immense  number  of  wild  cattle  which  roam 
in  the  vast  plains  of  California,  and  which  have  been 
killed  for  their  hides  and  tallow  only,  of  late  many 
vessels  from  the  United  States  have  visited  the  dif- 
ferent parts  annually  to  procure  hides.  Their  tal- 
low and  jerked  beef  are  exported  by  land,  along  the 
coast,  and  even  to  many  parts  of  Europe.  Conse- 
quently, this  country,  from  this  scource  alone,  receives 
an  immense  revenue ; and  at  that  time  there  were  two 
American  vessels  at  anchor  there,  engaged  in  that 
trade,  with  those  of  Columbia  and  Mexico,  collecting 
hides  and  tallow.  From  some  mysterious  cause  no 
meat  of  any  kind  can  be  cured  here  with  salt,  or  in 
any  other  way  except  by  drying  it  in  the  sun ; how- 
ever, this  can  be  effectually  accomplished,  from  the 
fact  that  the  climate  is  so  fine  and  the  air  so  salubrous. 

I am  of  the  opinion  that  this  region  of  California  is 
very  healthy  for  invalids  in  pulmonary  diseases.  I 
have  been  informed  by  a long  resident  in  this  coun- 
try that  there  is  no  one  disease  peculiar  to  it  or  in  any 
way  common. 

The  inhabitants  are  Spaniards  or  their  descendants, 


232 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


generally  mixed  with  the  natives  of  the  country  by 
intermarriage,  until  there  is  scarcely  a Spanish  feature 
to  be  seen  among  them.  The  aborigines  of  the  coun- 
try are  a diminutive  race,  much  below  the  common 
stature  of  Europeans,  and  are  smaller  than  those  in- 
habiting the  region  of  Oregon,  about  Juan  de  Fuca. 
Another  striking  peculiarity  in  the  feature  of  the 
country,  is  the  extreme  diminutiyeness  of  all  kinds 
of  vegetables,  compared  with  those  that  we  saw  in 
Nasqually.  The  trees  here  are  mere  dwarfs  and  sink 
into  insignificance  in  the  comparison. 

The  country  abounds  in  all  kinds  of  game.  Deer 
are  so  plentiful  that  we  saw  fifteen  and  twenty  in  a 
drove,  playing  on  the  declivities  of  the  hills,  in  sight 
of  our  anchorage.  Birds  of  various  kinds  were  seen 
in  great  abundance,  and  in  the  interior  were  so  tame 
as  to  allow  themselves  to  be  captured  with  clubs. 
The  seine  was  hauled  once  and  the  fish  caught  were 
of  an  excellent  quality,  but  not  in  any  great  abun- 
dance, though  embracing  several  species.  There 
were  many  venomous  reptiles  to  be  found  every 
where  in  the  country ; the  rattlesnake  is  common, 
also  an  animal  about  the  size  of  a rat,  whose  bite  is 
said  to  cause  instant  death. 

The  preceding  remarks  are  applicable  more  particu- 
larly to  that  part  of  California  which  borders  on  the 
coast.  As  you  recede,  the  soil  becomes  more  fertile, 
and  the  country  -more  interesting.  The  greater  part 
of  the  entire  territory  is  exceedingly  fertile,  though  its 
excellencies  are  not  appreciated  by  its  badly  governed 
inhabitants.  Though  republicanism — self-styled — 
had  been  long  talked  of,  yet  but  little  of  the  pure  ge- 
nius of  freedom  has  ever  dawned  upon  this  beautiful 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


233 


country.  The  officer  of  government  has  been  here, 
but  nothing  like  a system  has  ever  existed.  The  un- 
alienable rights  of  free  suffrage  are  neither  generally 
understood,  nor  practised.  Popular  elections  are  en- 
tirely unknown. 

Yankee  enterprise,  and  the  “ spirit  and  principles  of 
the  pilgrims,”  might  make  this  the  “ garden  of  Ameri- 
ca.” Its  physical  resources  are  almost  unbounded. 
The  soil  is  rich  and  deep,  varying  from  three  to  four 
or  five  feet  in  depth.  Nor  is  this  confined — as  is  often 
the  case — to  valleys  and  meadows,  but  extends  to  the 
“ table  land”  and  mountains,  whose  variegated  ac- 
clivities are  clad  in  a thick  garment  of  verdure  and 
luxuriance,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  The  va- 
rious kinds  of  grain  may  be  raised  here  in  profusion, 
not  only  from  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  but  from  the 
fact  that  more  than  one  crop  may  be  harvested  in  the 
year.  There  is  a freshness  and  luxuriance  in  the 
vegetable  kingdom  that  give  this  place  a decided  pre- 
eminence. 

This  country  has  superior  facilities  for  the  culture 
of  the  grape,  &c.  Could  fruit  of  this  nature  be  prop- 
erly cultivated,  the  time  would  not  be  far  distant 
when  this  country,  and  indeed  this  continent,  would 
not  be  dependent  upon  the  eastern  world  for  fruit. 
There  are,  however,  several  vineyards  to  be  found 
among  the  more  wealthy  Spaniards,  which  produce 
fruit  of  an  excellent  quality,  but  all  are  but  poorly 
cultivated.  We  can  only  infer  from  these  what  would 
be  the  result  if  the  vine  should  be  cultivated  here,  as 
elsewhere. 

The  numerous  herds  of  cattle  upon  the  many  hill- 
sides and  verdant  plains,  give  ample  evidence  of  its 
20* 


234 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


qualities  as  a grazing  country.  Thousands  of  them 
may  be  seen  quietly  grazing,  unscared  by  the  ordina- 
ry labors  of  the  husbandman,  for  the  native  is  too  in- 
dolent to  cultivate  the  soil  to  any  considerable  extent. 
When  the  calls  of  nature  demand  food,  he  has  simply 
to  select  a bullock  from  some  of  these  extensive  herds 
and  capture  his  prize  as  may  best  suit  his  convenience. 
The  lasso  is  often  used  for  this  purpose.  While  beef 
can  be  obtained  so  easily,  they  make  but  little  effort  to 
obtain  the  fruits  of  the  earth  by  culture.  Though 
grain  may  be  raised  with  comparative  ease  flour  can 
not  ordinarily  be  obtained  without  about  four  times 
its  expense  in  New  England.  They  are  emphatically 
a beef-eating  people. 

'The  New  England  farmer,  who  prides  himself  in 
his  beautiful  horses,  his  fine  oxen,  &c.,  his  improve- 
ments in  his  stock  in  general,  would  be  surprised  to  see 
the  beauty  and  symmetry  of  these  large  herds,  which 
are  simply  'permitted  to  grow,  without  any  effort  to 
improve  their  quality.  They  would  gladly  dispense 
with  their  “imported  specimens  of  perfection,”  and 
furnish  themselves  from  those  fertile  plains,  where 
nature  is  seen  in  her  simplicity. 

In  fine,  few  places,  probably,  can  vie  with  this  in 
almost  every  thing  that  pertains  to  agriculture.  Su- 
peradded  to  a rich  soil,  animate  nature  seems  to  con- 
spire to  lend  her  influence  to  give  a charm  to  this  im- 
portant avocation.  The  plains  and  “ table  lands”  are 
checkered  with  unnumbered  cattle,  the  forests  resound 
with  the  music  of  numerous  birds  of  rare  beauty  of 
plumage,  and  every  lake,  river  and  smaller  body  of 
water  teems  with  the  finny  tribe,  some  of  the  most  de- 
licious flavor. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


235 


In  a commercial  point  of  view,  it  has  many  facil- 
ities of  no  ordinary  description.  Nearly  surrounded 
on  the  one  hand  by  the  broad  Pacific,  and  on  the  other 
by  its  deep  and  beautiful  gulf, — to  say  nothing  of  its 
rivers, — it  has  a line  of  sea-coast  that  may,  at  some 
future  day,  be  whitened  by  the  sails  of  the  world. 
Indeed  this  cannot  long  remain  unnoticed  and  unoc- 
cupied by  an  enterprising  people.  It  is  not  too  much 
to  predict  that  many  years  will  not  elapse,  ere  the 
shrill  whistle  will  echo  through  these  verdant  glens 
and  deep  ravines,  as  the  car  thunders  along  the  plains 
of  California  to  its  metropolis  on  its  western  borders. 
The  steam-ship  may  ascend  its  gulf  and  be  moored  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  freighted  with  the  produc- 
tion of  the  East  Indies,  China,  or  the  British  Isles. 
Works  of  art  may  soon  gild  these  hill-sides,  where 
now  the  grazing  herds  bear  undisputed  sway ; — for- 
tifications may  rise  along  these  almost  uninhabited 
shores,  and  Loreto  and  San  Diego  become  to  western 
California,  what  Boston  and  New  York  are  to  the 
Eastern  States. 

On  the  8th,  a large  party  of  Spanish  ladies,  by  in- 
vitation, paid  a visit  to  the  ship ; the  quarter  deck 
was  decorated  with  a profusion  of  the  flags  of  almost 
every  country  in  the  civilized  world,  and  a regular 
u fandango  ” commenced  at  half  past  twelve  o’clock, 
which  was  continued  until  ten  at  night.  It  appeared 
to  be  the  desire  of  all  the  officers  to  render  the  ladies’ 
time  as  agreeable  as  possible,  although  there  were  only 
one  or  two  who  could  speak  the  language.  The  ladies 
performed  many  dances  peculiar  to  the  country,  such 
as  the  old  gentleman  teased  to  death  by  a young  girl 
whom  he  had  promised  to  marry,  but  afterwards 


36 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


found  her  inconstant,  and  finally  makes  up  with 
her  and  they  get  married.  Another  dance  was  per- 
formed solely  by  the  ladies,  which  was  gracefully  exe- 
cuted, personating  a “bull  dance,”  or  rather  a bull 
bait.  This  was  something  new  to  me,  and  it  will 
not  be  surprising  that  I was  somewhat  interested, 
however  ludicrous  it  may  have  been.  Both  men  and 
women  retired  to  the  shore  with  a good  stock  of  wine 
on  board. 

A boat  with  Passed  Midshipman  Davis  and  three 
marines  was  sent  to  capture  some  of  the  runaway  crew 
of  the  whale  ship  Orozembo,  supposed  to  be  secreted 
somewhere  about  the  Rio  Sacremento. 

They  succeeded  in  securing  the  deserters  who  had 
foolishly  left  us.  In  reference  to  the  reasonableness 
of  the  dissatisfaction  on  the  part  of  such  as  left  the 
whaler,  I am  not  prepared  to  decide.  Those  of  our 
number,  however,  had  not,  in  my  estimation,  sufficient 
reason  for  the  course  pursued  by  them.  Capt.  Wilkes 
and  our  officers  were  uniformly  kind,  and  did  much 
to  subserve  the  welfare  and  comfort  of  the  crew. 

It  is  true,  however,  that  seamen  are  often,  very 
often,  improperly  treated,  yet  it  is  also  true  that  they 
are  sometimes  inclined  to  a spirit  of  insubordination, 
and  entail  upon  themselves  many  evils. 

In  extenuation  of  the  conduct  of  the  above  desert- 
ers, it  should  be  stated  that  they  had  been  long  from 
home,  and  probably  a recollection  of  their  birthplace 
and  the  many  associations  of  childhood’s  home,  had 
much  influence  in  producing  these  sad  results.  The 
love  of  home  probably  is  among  the  strongest  senti- 
ments of  the  human  mind  ; nor  can  it  be  lamented  that 
such  the  case.  Yet  when  such  misfortunes  result  in 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


237 


a non-fulfilment  of  previous  engagements,  it  is  to  be 
deprecated. 

Captain  Salter,  from  the  Rio  Sacremento,  formerly 
a captain  in  Bonaparte’s  army,  made  a visit  to  the 
ship  in  company  with  the  Russian  Governor  ; several 
other  distinguished  visitors  called  about  the  same 
time.  We  learned  that  Captain  Salter  had  purchased 
the  Russian  settlement  at  Port  Diego  for  thirty  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  that  the  Governor  and  all  the  Rus- 
sians were  to  leave  for  their  settlement  in  North 
America  by  the  first  opportunity. 

During  the  afternoon  another  regular  “ Spanish  set- 
to  ” took  place  on  board ; all  the  Spanish  ladies  around 
in  the  vicinity  came  on  board  and  dined,  after  which 
they  commenced  waltzing,  and  a fandango  closed  the 
evening’s  entertainment.  They  were  “quite  blue,” 
and  returned  under  the  shades  of  the  evening.  This 
was  the  second  bacchanalian  feast  held  on  board  du- 
ring our  stay  there. 

On  the  20th,  the  United  States  Brig  Oregon,  Capt. 
Hudson,  arrived  from  Columbia  River.  This  vessel 
was  the  late  Thomas  Perkins,  and  was  purchased  by 
Captain  Wilkes  for  the  purpose  of  taking  the  officers 
and  crew  of  the  Peacock  home.  The  Peacock,  it  will 
be  recollected,  was  wrecked  in  passing  a bar  off  Co- 
lumbia River.  The  crew  were  to  be  transferred  to 
the  brig. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th,  the  Launch  arrived  with 
a portion  of  the  officers,  scientific  gentlemen  and  men, 
who  had  been  on  a land  expedition  from  Columbia 
River  to  California.  A number  of  these  suffered  very 
much  on  the  route  from  intermittent  fever,  and  some 
were  quite  exhausted.  The  distance  traveled  by 


238 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


them  was  about  six  hundred  miles;  during  most  of 
the  time,  they  were  compelled  to  be  constantly  on 
their  guard  against  the  indians,  some  of  whom  were 
of  the  most  savage  character.  However,  the  party 
mustered  too  strong  for  them  to  risk  an  attack,  and 
they  suffered  them  to  pass  unmolested. 

The  launch  and  first  cutter  were  hoisted  in,  and  the 
tents  on  shore,  with  some  of  the  instruments,  removed 
on  board.  Things  now  began  to  look  like  going  to 
sea.  In  a short  time  all  things  were  ready  and  we 
were  about  to  take  our  leave  of  this  place.  This  was 
acceptable  news  to  most  of  us,  as  we  were  getting 
somewhat  fatigued  with  the  monotony  of  our  duties, 
more  especially  for  a few  weeks  immediately  preced- 
ing that  time.  We  felt  that  leaving  this  place  was 
nearly  allied  to  an  embarkation  for  home. 

At  3 o’clock,  P.  M.,  all  hands  were  called  to  get 
underway,  and  by  half  past  2 o’clock  the  anchor  was 
up,  and  we  were  passing  slowly  from  our  anchorage, 
with  a very  light  wind,  bound  to  sea, — Brigs  Porpoise 
and  Oregon  in  company.  At  7 o’clock  the  wind  died 
away  perfectly  calm,  at  which  time  we  were  imme- 
diately on  the  bar,  and  meeting  a flood  tide  were  com- 
pelled to  anchor,  to  avoid  being  drifted  back  and 
probably  on  shore,  as  the  ship  was  at  that  time  en- 
tirely unmanageable.  In  this  situation  we  were  com- 
pelled to  lie  all  night,  and  a more  disagreeable  time  I 
never  experienced.  When  the  tide  set  in  strong,  the 
breakers  on  the  bar  were  tremendous ; the  waters  of 
the  Rio  Sacremento  meeting  those  of  the  Pacific, 
created  a formidable  line  of  breakers  which  at  times 
rolled  in  with  fearful  violence  over  the  bar. 

The  Rio  Sacremento  is  a river  of  considerable  size, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


239 


and  rising  as  it  does  in  lakes  at  some  distance  from 
the  coast,  it  pours  a mighty  mass  of  waters  into  the 
ocean  at  this  place.  Its  turbid  current  enlarges  in  its 
course  toward  its  ocean  home,  becoming  more  and 
more  precipitous  as  it  urges  its  way  along  the  moun- 
tainous region,  until  its  chafing  tide  reaches  the  in- 
rushing  waters  of  the  Pacific.  Here  then  is  a mighty 
contest.  The  mingling  masses  rise  high  in  air  as 
they  meet,  and  foam,  and  lash  each  other  with  tre- 
mendous power.  They  roll,  and  dash,  and  heave  in 
the  wildness  of  ocean  scenery,  crest  meeting  crest, 
current  opposing  current,  billow  overleaping  billow, 
while  a far-reaching  spray  is  sent  up,  which  distinct- 
ly marks  the  place  of  the  “warring  element.”  Its 
roar  is  heard  at  a distance,  especially  when  the  Sac- 
remento  is  swollen,  and  a strong  breeze  from  the 
south  and  west  drives  the  approaching  tide  toward 
this  projecting  bar  with  doubly  accelerated  force. 

It  is  at  such  times  that  the  sailor,  who  is  so  unfor- 
tunate as  to  be  on  this  bar,  is  reminded  of  the  frantic 
storm,  “ wild  in  its  madness,”  in  mid  ocean,  when 
the  Creator  of  the  “sea  and  the  dry  land”  stretches 
forth  his  mighty  hand,  and  the  “winds  and  waves 
obey  him  ;”  when  it  is  lashed  into  fury  by  the  torna- 
do’s fearful  power,  raging,  rolling,  and  uplifting  in 
stupendous  grandeur. 

During  the  night,  we  were  in  constant  danger  of 
being  overwhelmed  by  the  billows  that  were  breaking 
around  us.  In  the  gloom  of  darkness  a formidable 
roller  came  in  and  struck  the  ship,  which  inundated 
the  deck,  and  floated  several  of  the  officers  out  of 
their  state-rooms. 

But  little  sleep  could  be  obtained  by  any  one  during 


240 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


this  tedious  night,  in  consequence  of  the  motion  of  the 
ship,  and  the  noise  made  by  different  articles  that 
were  rolling  about  the  deck.  The  morning  came,  but 
with  it,  but.  little  hope  of  being  relieved  from  a dis- 
agreeable and  dangerous  situation.  The  calm  still 
continued,  and  the  rollers  still  came  in  at  intervals, 
roaring  like  distant  thunder  for  a mile  or  more  before 
they  made  their  appearance,  while  we  were  expecting 
every  moment  to  hear  our  chain  part,  from  the  sud- 
den jerks  of  the  ship  while  rising  over  the  rollers.  At 
4 o’clock  a tremendous  roller  came  in  and  struck  us 
violently  on  the  larboard  bow,  carrying  away  the 
nettings  as  far  as  the  after  part  of  the  fore  rigging, 
flooding  all  the  decks,  and  breaking  the  boats  and 
spare  spars  on  the  main  deck. 

At  this  time,  Joseph  Aushouse,  marine,  was  going 
upon  deck  to  the  head  previous  to  going  on  post,  and 
was  killed  by  the  rupture  of  the  “ vena  cava  abdomin- 
alis This  accident  happened  by  a blow  against  the 
abdbmen,  with  a spare  spar  which  was  thrown 
against  the  unfortunate  man.  He  died  almost  imme- 
diately, and  his  body  was  opened  by  the  surgeon, 
with  the  above  results.  The  extent  of  the  injury 
was  such  as  to  have  rendered  all  medical  assistance 
useless  under  any  circumstances,  even  by  the  most 
skillful  physicians.  At  8 o’clock  we  were  favored 
with  a fair  wind,  but  it  was  light,  however;  we  took  the 
first  opportunity  to  extricate  ourselves  from  this  dis- 
agreeable situation,  and  got  underway,  and  as  Provi- 
dence favored  us,  we  succeeded  in  clearing  the  bar; 
afterward,  the  wind  dying  away,  we  were  compelled 
to  come  to  anchor  in  the  stream  in  twelve  fathoms  of 
water.  At  half  past  1 o’clock  all  hands  were  called 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


241 


to  “bury  the  dead.”  The  seamen  had  been  previous- 
ly dressed  in  their  uniform,  white  frocks  and  blue 
pantaloons,  and  the  marines  in  clean  fatigues.  The 
body  was  brought  on  deck  by  the  mess-mates  of  the 
deceased,  and  conveyed  to  the  lee  gangway ; an  en- 
sign was  the  pall  and  a rough  plank  the  bier . The; 
funeral  obsequies  were  performed  by  Capt.  Hudson, 
who  took  his  station  near  the  corpse,  and  read  the 
burial  service  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 
For  a time  all  was  hushed  and  still. — a death-like 
silence  pervaded  the  ship  throughout.  At  the  words; 
we  “ therefore  commit  the  body  to  the  deep,”  a plunge 
was  heard,  and  a momentary  melancholy  seemed  to 
impress  the  minds  of  all ; but  it  was  soon  over,  and 
the  usual  pleasantry  and  mirth  were  soon  commenced. 
Three  volleys  of  musketry  were  fired  by  the  marine 
guard  over  the  ocean  grave  of  the  dead,  and  the  sound 
of  the  boatswain  and  his  mate’s  whistle,  announcing 
that  all  was  over,  closed  the  awful  scene. 

At  three  o’clock  the  wind  again  favored  us,  v?hen 
we  hove  up  the  stream  anchor  and  made  sail. 

On  the  morning  of  Nov.  2d,  land  was  discovered, 
which  proved  to  be  Monterey.  The  appearance  of 
this  land  is  very  mountainous  and  much  broken  and 
diversified ; the  prospect  was  sterile,  with  no  sign  of 
vegetation  any  where  visible  on  the  seaboard.  We 
stood  within  four  or  five  miles  of  the  anchorage,  and 
sent  the  Porpoise  in  with  the  letter  bag  intended  for 
Mazatland. 

We  were  at  this  time  favored  with  fine  breezes, 
and  were  making  rapid  progress  toward  the  place  of 
our  destination.  Our  hearts  were  beating  high  with 
21 


242 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


hope  and  buoyancy,  and  the  “ lights”  of  the  sailor 
life  were  quite  discernible. 

The  true  sailor  remembers  his  hardships  but  a 
short  time.  Storms  may  gather  wildly  above  him, 
thunders  roar,  and  lightnings  play  around  his  devot- 
ed head ; a single  plank  of  a noble  wreck  may  buoy 
him  above  a deep,  dark,  ocean  grave,  yet  when  the 
placid  sun  again  shines  upon  him,  as  the  mutterings 
of  the  thunder  are  heard  only  in  the  distance,  a smile 
lights  up  his  countenance,  and  he  is  the  same  joyous, 
fun-loving  creature  as  in  more  favorable  circum- 
stances. His  solemn  vows  are  forgotten,  thoughts  of 
land  are  dismissed  and  danger  is  thought  of,  only  as 
connected  with  the  past.  The  probability  of  a recur- 
rence of  scenes  of  toil  and  peril,  apparently  is  seldom 
suggested  to  him,  save  by  moaning  winds  or  over- 
cast sky,  ominous  of  the  approaching  tempest. 


# 


CHAPTER  X Y I . 


Arrival  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Incident  at  Oahu — Departure 
—A  meditated  attack  of  the  Natives — Arrival  at  Singapore, 

The  dim  horizon  lowering  vapors  shroud, 

And  blot  the  sun,  yet  struggling  in  the  cloud  $ 

Through  the  wide  atmosphere,  condensed  with  haze, 

His  glaring  orb  emits  a sanguine  blaze. 

The  pilots  now  their  rules  of  art  supply. 

The  mystic  needle's  devious  aim  to  try. 

It  would  be  no  easy  matter  to  delineate  to  my  read- 
ers our  feelings,  as  we  “ filled  away  ” the  main  topsail, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


243 


when  we  were  about  to  leave  the  continent.  We 
could  look  abroad  over  the  wide  expanse  of  waters 
which  surrounded  us,  while  the  vast  foaming  fields  of 
the  Pacific,  China  Sea,  Indian  and  Atlantic  Oceans 
were  stretching,  as  an  almost  unlimited  barrier,  be- 
tween us  and  our  loved  homes,  that  mysterious  place, 
of  all  others  the  most  sacred.  Notwithstanding  the 
immense  extent  of  this  great  “highway  of  nations,55 
every  heart  seemed  elated  with  a secret  joy,  as  the 
waters  went  gurgling  by,  sparkling  and  foaming  under 
our  bow,  while  the  Vincennes  was  plowing  her  way 
toward  the  setting  sun.  We  were  not,  however,  to 
pass  immediately  to  that  cherished  spot,  but  were  now 
bound  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This  fact  compen- 
sated, in  a measure,  for  a longer  detention  from  the 
place  which  calls  up,  as  from  the  grave,  the  scenes 
and  associations  of  childhood. 

Our  previous  visit  at  the  islands  had  been  of  a very 
interesting  character,  and  we  had  formed  many  pleas- 
ing acquaintances,  more  especially  with  those  con- 
nected with  the  missions.  Their  uniform  kindness  to 
us  on  our  previous  acquaintance,  had  left  a deep  im- 
pression upon  us,  and  it  was  a source  of  gratification 
that  we  were  again  to  witness  the  almost  miraculous 
effects  of  the  introduction  of  Christianity  among  these 
islands,  so  lately  in  the  darkness  of  barbarism. 

Nothing  of  particular  interest  occurred  during  our 
departure  from  the  continent,  until  we  arrived  at  the 
Island  of  Oahu,  and  once  more  dropped  our  anchor 
in  the  harbor  of  Honolulu.  Our  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances received  us  with  every  mark  of  respect  and  es- 
teem, and  every  thing  seemed  to  wear  an  additional 
charm,  as  we  were  reminded,  by  these  tokens  of  kind- 


244 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ness,  of  those  endeared  to  us  by  the  ties  of  affection, 
toward  whom  we  were  urging  our  way  as  fast  as  cir- 
cumstances would  permit.  Our  greetings  were  scarce- 
ly over,  and  few  necessary  preparations  made,  ere  we 
were  ordered  to  be  in  readiness  to  embark,  prepara- 
tory to  a cruise  to  the  East  Indies. 

An  incident  occurred  on  the  eve  of  our  departure, 
to  relate  which,  I must  beg  leave  to  deviate  somewhat 
from  the  general  tenor  of  the  narrative.  While  we 
were  at  Oahu  at  the  previous  time,  we  were  furnish- 
ed with  an  “advance”  of  three  months,  together 
with  about  two  weeks  for  innocent  recreation.  And 
as  if  to  render  the  circumstances  still  more  ruinous,  a 
plentiful  supply  of  “ grog  money  ” was  added,  amount- 
ing, probably,  to  some  hundreds  and  even  thousands 
of  dollars.  There  were  but  few,  if  any,  of  the  crew, 
who  had  not  at  least  fifty  dollars,  when  they  left  the 
ship.  One  week  had  not  elapsed,  however,  before  the 
landlords — who  much  resemble  those  of  other  parts 
of  the  world — had  stripped  them  of  nearly  the  entire 
amount.  It  is  not  necessary  to  say  whether,  indeed, 
they  received  any  thing  in  exchange ; those  acquaint- 
ed with  that  part  of  creation  denominated  “land 
sharks,”  will  be  able  to  make  their  own  inferences. 

The  Commodore  had  foreseen  this  result,  and 
knowing  quite  well  that  they  would  not  be  content 
with  this  amount;  but  would  induce  many  to  enlarge 
their  hills,  looking  to  him  for  the  liquidation,  caused 
notices  to  be  issued,  forbidding  such  a course.  In  di- 
rect violation  of  this  order,  however,  they  pursued  the 
course  anticipated,  swelling  a bill  of  some  $1500  or 
more.  When  the  Commodore  remonstrated  with 
them  for  their  treachery,  they  acknowledged  that  they 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


245 


saw  his  notices.  They  were  asked  if  they  wished 
him  to  falsify  his  word,  and  readily  replied  that  they 
did  not.  He  then  reminded  them  of  the  fact  that 
they  knew,  while  granting  the  credit,  that  they  must 
lose  it  or  he  must  be  guilty  of  a falsehood,  and  as 
they  did  not  wish  him  to  be  thus  guilty,  they  of 
course  must  lose  it.  They  were  earnest  and  boister- 
ous in  their  complaints  against  the  measure,  while 
the  Commodore  listened  with  much  apparent  atten- 
tion to  their  arguments,  from  which  they  inferred 
that  they  had  very  much  softened  him  in  regard  to 
his  resolution.  In  this  they  were  mistaken. 

After  they  closed  their  arguments,  he  said  that  he 
u was  very  sorry  indeed,  and  that  his  sorrow  was  still 
greater  that  the  bill  was  not  $10,000  instead  of  $2,000, 
not  that  he  believed  they  had  had  half  the  amount  of 
their  bill,  but  if  it  was  the  $10,000,  he  would  not  suf- 
fer one  cent  to  be  paid,  and  that  they  could  go  ashore 
as  soon  as  they  chose.”  At  this  they  were  exceeding- 
ly exasperated,  and  were  very  profuse  of  their  threats, 
at  the  same  time  intimating  their  design  of  sending 
their  bills  to  the  United  States  for  collection.  Com- 
modore Wilkes  had  encountered  many  dangers  during 
his  eventful  life,  and  was  not  much  alarmed  at  this 
u tempest  in  a tea-pot.”  The  threats  of  rum-loving 
extortioners  could  not  move  him  at  this  advanced  pe- 
riod of  life,  and  the  bills  were  “ squared  by  the  fore- 
top-sails,” as  jack  has  it;  there  are  thousands  beside 
these  soulless  landlords,  who  will  long  have  occasion 
to  remember  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 
No  ship  had  ever  visited  these  islands,  connected  with 
which  there  were  so  many  marked  incidents,  or  so 
great  an  amount  of  money  left.  After  completing  all 
21* 


246 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


necessary  preparations,  we  took  a final  leave  of  our 
friends  on  these  islands,  and  embarked.  It  was,  in- 
deed, a scene  of  thrilling  interest,  to  see  our  ship  swift- 
ly gliding  through  her  watery  way,  as  the  dim  out- 
line of  this  interesting  spot  faded  from  our  view;  she 
was  a rapid  sailer,  and  we  felt  that  every  mile  was 
an  additional  evidence  of  the  speedy  termination  of 
our  long  and  eventful  cruise. 

We  touched  at  no  islands  of  much  importance  until 
we  reached  Manilla,  which  port  we  made  after  a 
pleasant  passage  of  several  days.  My  opportunities 
for  observation  at  this  time  were  somewhat  limited, 
from  the  fact  that  our  stay  was  short;  consequently  I 
shall  be  able  to  give  but  a vague  description  of  the 
manners,  customs,  &c.,  of  the  inhabitants.  Manilla  is 
the  capital  of  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  is  a place  of 
considerable  importance.  It  is  by  far  the  most  com- 
mercial city  of  the  Archipelago,  and  contains,  prob- 
ably, about  14,000  inhabitants.  Its  exports  are  some- 
what extensive,  and  are  seen  throughout  the  civilized 
world.  It  is  a Spanish  port,  and  has  the  usual  char- 
acteristics of  Spanish  towns, — narrow  streets,  low 
buildings  and  misshapen  verandas. 

The  Philippine  Islands,  embracing  four  in  number, 
are  remarkably  fertile ; the  climate  is  hot  and  in  some 
parts  unhealthy,  though  the  extensive  ranges  of 
mountains,  which  rise  far  above  the  blue,  foaming 
waters  of  their  shores,  tend  to  mitigate  the  fervid  heat 
of  the  tropics.  The  luxuriant  soil  produces  an  excel- 
lent quality  of  rice,  sugar,  some  of  the  spices  and 
gums,  though  but  few  of  the  usual  aromatics  of  the 
tropics ; the  various  grains  are  abundant,  while  min- 
erals are  found  to  some  extent. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


247 


When  we  left  Manilla,  our  course  was  through  the 
Sooloo  Sea.  This  part  of  the  ocean  world  had  been 
but  little  known  to  navigators,  although  some  of  the 
more  adventurous  and  enterprising  had  passed  through 
this  sea;  the  navigation  is  exceedingly  dangerous  on 
account  of  the  innumerable  coral  reefs  and  sunken 
rocks  which  often  present  themselves,  while  there  is  no 
accurate  chart  to  warn  of  their  existence.  Disasters 
had  attended  the  imperfect  surveys  that  had  been  pro- 
jected, and  few  that  had  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  be 
wrecked  on  the  reefs,  had  ever  survived  to  relate  the 
horrors  of  their  fate.  On  the  one  hand  were  the  dan- 
gers of  the  ocean,  and  on  the  other,  the  ferocity  of  the 
natives  who  inhabited  the  islands  which  intersperse 
this  part  of  the  Pacific ; they  were  treacherous  and 
warlike,  and  delighted  in  blood  and  plunder.  They 
were  Malays,  and  truly  their  “ habitations  were  filled 
with  cruelty.”  They  were  far  more  barbarous  than 
most  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  islands  which  we  had 
visited  during  our  cruise  in  the  Pacific. 

An  incident  occurred  while  we  were  surveying 
on  their  coast,  which  very  aptly  illustrated  the  char- 
acter of  the  inhabitants.  While  our  boats  were  en- 
gaged in  “ measuring  base,”  by  firing  muskets,  &c., 
the  Malays  mistook  us  for  a ship’s  company  in  distress, 
and  supposed  that  our  guns  were  designed  as  a sig- 
nal for  assistance ; they  filled  several  of  their  largest 
prows  with  men,  armed  with  shields,  spears,  crises, 
& c.,  and  came  down  with  full  speed  to  attack  us. 
One  of  the  boats,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Perry, 
was  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  while  the  others  were  sta- 
tioned around  the  reefs ; the  pirates  ran  into  the  bay, 
landed,  and  began  to  brandish  their  spears,  and  com- 


248 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


menced  surrounding  the  men.  who  were  immediately- 
ordered  to  the  boat.  By  the  coolness  and  address  of 
the  officers  and  men,  the  natives  hesitated  a moment, 
during  which  time  the  men  had  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing the  boat,  carrying  with  them  the  eprovet ; they 
had  an  abundance  of  small  arms  in  the  boat,  and  the 
natives  somewhat  suspicious  of  our  movements,  prob- 
ably distrusted  their  own  strength.  Mr.  Budd,  who 
commanded  the  cutter,  the  boat  to  which  I belonged, 
seeing  the  apparent  intentions  of  the  natives,  immedi- 
ately weighed  anchor  and  ran  down  to  render  assist- 
ance, if  it  was  required.  When  the  Malays  saw  us 
coming,  they  hurried  back  into  their  prows,  and  hoist- 
ed a white  flag  in  token  of  peace.  We  sailed  up  to 
them,  and  after  some  conversation  with  them,  through 
an  interpreter  that  we  had  taken  from  Manilla  for 
that  purpose,  they  were  induced  to  relinquish  their  de- 
signs of  plunder.  After  they  were  shown  our  arms, 
and  became  acquainted  with  our  strength,  they  made 
sail  and  returned,  while  we  continued  our  survey  un- 
molested. Had  we  been  the  crews  of  stranded  mer- 
chantmen, there  can  be  but  little  doubt  but  that  we 
should  have  been  plundered,  and  murdered  or  en- 
slaved. 

From  the  best  information  that  I have  been  able  to 
obtain  from  those  who  have  jeoparded  their  lives  in 
navigating  the  Sooloo  Sea,  all  vessels  that  make  this 
voyage  should  be  well  provided  with  the  means  of 
defence,  should  they  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  wreck- 
ed on  these  shores.  Even  now,  it  would  be  fortunate 
if  vessels  should  be  able  to  pass  without  coming  in 
contact  with  the  reefs  that  so  thickly  lie  along  the 
passage.  In  addition  to  these  dangers,  the  Sooloo  Isl- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


249 


ands  have  a regular  system  of  organized  piracy  in 
their  employ,  as  it  is  supposed,  four  hundred  vessels, 
with  an  ample  quota  of  desperadoes,  which  are  en- 
gaged in  committing  depredations  upon  defenceless 
vessels  that  may  chance  to  fall  into  their  power. 

The  Malays,  who  are  found  at  many  of  the  islands 
visited  by  us,  are  a treacherous,  passionate  and  reck- 
less class  of  barbarians,  and  seem  to  attach  but  little 
value  to  human  life.  It  is  not  unfrequently  the  case 
that  in  a fit  of  rash  and  feverish  excitement,  they  dis- 
card all  restraint  and  sacrifice  their  own  lives  to  their 
baser  passions.  One  of  the  most  usual  methods,  is 
called  “ running  Amok.”  When  self-destruction  is 
premeditated,  the  victim  prepares  himself  by  some 
means  of  intoxication,  more  generally  by  chewing 
opium,  assumes  a more  frightful  aspect,  while  his 
long,  black,  disheveled  hair  is  dangling  carelessly, 
giving  a fearful  appearance  to  the  self-constituted  ma- 
niac. In  this  attitude  he  unsheaths  his  murderous 
crise,  and  rushes  forth  with  deadly  intent ; he  attacks 
such  as  may  chance  to  fall  into  his  power,  vocifera- 
ting ‘‘kill!  kill!”  with  terriffic  madness.  This 
slaughter  is  continued  until  he  is  overcome,  and  falls 
a victim  to  his  unhallowed  passions. 

We  next  made  a harbor  at  Singapore,  in  lat.  3 deg. 
N.  and  long.  105  deg.  E.,  off  the  southern  coast  of  Asia. 
Singapore  is  an  English  island,  but  the  majority  of  the 
inhabitants  are  Chinese  and  Malays,  by  whom  the 
greatest  part  of  the  business  is  performed.  Wre  were 
about  discontinuing  our  surveys,  and  were  to  sail  di- 
rectly for  our  native  land.  Store  ships,  armaments, 
6o c.,  were  to  be  of  but  trifling  importance  to  us  during 
the  remaining  part  of  the  cruise.  At  this  port,  the  Fly- 


250 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ing  Fish,  which  had  been  our  companion  through  the 
cruise  thus  far,  was  disposed  of,  as  unnecessary  for  us 
after  completing  our  surveys.  She  had  been  our  asso- 
ciate in  toils  and  dangers,  and  when  she  passed  us 
with  a strange  commander  and  crew,  with  a foreign 
pennon  streaming  in  the  fragrant  gales  of  this  balmy 
spot,  an  involuntary  sadness  filled  every  bosom  on 
board.  There  seemed  to  be  something  in  the  nature 
of  our  enterprise  which  strengthened  the  bonds  of 
sympathy,  extending  even  to  inanimate  nature.  Her 
companion,  the  Sea  Gull,  had  probably  been  lost  olf 
the  coast  of  Terra  Del  Fuego,  and  her  crew  found  a 
deep  watery  grave.  The  Peacock  had  been  strand- 
ed at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  the  Relief 
had  been  sent  home  from  New  Holland,  and  the  Vin- 
cennes and  Porpoise  were  all  that  remained  of  the 
original  fleet,  which  were  to  return  to  the  United 
States. 

Singapore  produces  the  finest  pine  apples  that  I 
ever  saw,  and  in  the  greatest  abundance.  We  had  a 
fine  illustration  of  this  fact  at  the  Consul’s,  whose 
plantation  I visited ; he  had  several  acres  of  his 
grounds  covered  with  a most  luxuriant  growth.  He 
kindly  offered  us  as  many  as  we  might  choose  to  ac- 
cept ; we  accordingly  filled  our  boat  about  half  full, 
and  took  them  to  the  ship.  When  perfectly  ripe,  and 
plucked  fresh  from  the  stalk,  they  are  decidedly 
healthy,  and  they  constituted  a feast  for  us,  for  which 
we  felt  grateful  to  the  kind-hearted  consul. 

The  Chinese,  at  this  place,  have  a beautiful  temple, 
ornamented  with  some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  their 
famed  ingenuity;  the  whole  fabric  is  indescribable, 
from  the  innumerable  figures  that  adorn  its  unique 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


251 


structure.  It  produces,  while  gazing  at  it,  just  such 
feelings  in  the  beholder,  as  one  has  while  listening 
to  the  recital  of  their  mysterious  views  of  God  and  a 
future  state  of  existence.  One  might  feel  at  a loss  to 
classify  this  singular  edifice,  as  it  is  totally  unlike 
any  thing  recognized  in  the  “ likeness  of  things  in 
heaven  above,  the  earth  beneath,  or  in  the  waters  un- 
der the  earth,”  that  has  ever  come  under  my  observa- 
tion. In  examining  this  temple,  I could  but  regard  it 
as  a tangible  index  of  the  solitary  characteristics  of 
that  highly  cultivated,  yet  semi-barbarous  people. 
Claiming  a great  antiquity,  they  can  boast  of  but  little 
progress. 

Preparatory  to  our  final  departure  for  home,  our 
ship  was  put  in  proper  condition  for  the  cruise.  We 
left  Singapore  after  a stay  of  a few  days,  passing 
down  through  the  Straits  of  Banca,  and  entered  the 
Java  Sea,  and  through  the  Straits  of  Sunda  into  the 
Indian  Ocean.  All  was  now  life  and  hilarity,  while 
bright  visions  were  flitting  before  us.  The  wind  was 
favorable,  the  weather  fine,  and  our  noble  ship  was 
making  rapid  progress  toward  our  destined  haven; 
for  six  days  in  succession,  we  were  averaging  thirteen 
and  a half  miles  per  hour.  We  passed  directly  for 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  but  were  detained  two  days 
in  consequence  of  head  winds.  This  is  always  un- 
pleasant, but  doubly  so  under  the  present  circum- 
stances. The  sailor  dreads  the  calm ; he  choses  rather 
to  see  the  ocean  foaming,  heaving  and  tossed,  lashed 
by  the  fearful  tornado’s  power.  There  is  too  much 
tameness  and  quiet  about  it  to  harmonize  with  the 
energy  and  vivacity  of  his  temperament. 

After  doubling  the  Cape,  we  sailed  for  the  Island  of 


252 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


St.  Helena.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  gaze  on  this 
desolate,  barren  isle,  without  sad  reflections  upon  the 
singular  fate  and  probable  feelings  of  that  great  man, 
who  signalized  this  gloomy  rock,  and  clustered  around 
it  associations  which  will  run  parallel  with  the  flight 
of  time,  and  be  vividly  impressed  upon  the  great  mind 
of  a world,  until  this  barren  waste  shall  mingle  in 
chaotic  confusion  with  a melting  universe,  when  the 
angel  shall  “ stand  with  one  foot  upon  the  sea  and  the 
other  upon  the  dry  land,”  and  shall  put  a period  to  all 
earthly  things ! 

Great  men  not  unfrequently  give  character  to  the 
age  in  which  they  live,  and  mark  the  spot  in  which 
they  were  born  or  closed  life’s  career,  with  an  im- 
perishable fame.  Such  is  St.  Helena,  the  tomb  of  one 
of  the  greatest  warriors  of  his  own  or  any  other  age  • 
and  his  confinement  on  this  isolated  “ rock  of  the  sea,” 
has  called  forth  expressions  of  different  feelings  from 
different  minds,  and  while  I would  not  approve  his 
faults,  I would  not  depreciate  his  virtues,  and  the 
close  of  his  eventful  life  awakens  in  his  behalf  much 
sympathy. 

I visited  the  Longwood  residence  of  this  illustrious 
Emperor,  and  found  that  it  had  been  converted  into 
a stable  for  horses ; the  “ dew-drooping  willow”  is 
still  “ leaning  over”  what  had  once  been  his  grave. 
I found  but  little  satisfaction  in  my  visit  to  this  pris- 
on rock,  and  was  happy  to  arrive  on  board  where 
the  “stars  and  stripes”  of  my  own  happy  country 
waved  over  my  head  in  triumph. 

After  a stay  of  two  days,  the  word  “all  hands  up 
anchor  for  the  United  States !”  was  given,  ringing 
through  the  various  parts  of  the  ship,  producing 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


253 


quicker  and  more  joyous  pulsations  in  every  bosom ; 
the  capstan  was  manned,  the  anchor  “ walked  up  to 
the  bows,57  sail  was  made,  and  but  a few  moments 
elapsed  before  the  ship  was  underway,  to  tarry  no 
more  until  she  should  arrive  at  New  York.  And  now 
followed  a time  for  thought,  retrospect,  and  future 
arrangements;  all  were  filled  with  plans  for  future  ac- 
tion ; a thousand  different  schemes  were  originated  by 
which  the  schemer  seemed  confident  that  he  might 
obtain  a compensation  on  shore. 

All  on  board  had  been  schooled  in  all  the  mysteries 
of  the  sailor  boarding-house  system,  and  were  partic- 
ular to  caution  each  other  against  the  treachery  and 
fraud  of  landlords;  each  seemed  fully  determined  to 
take  special  care  of  himself  and  his  money,  but,  poor 
fellows,  they  knew  but  little  of  the  tempter5 s power ; 
they  knew  but  little  of  those  artful  stratagems  which 
were  so  soon  to  be  thrown  around ■ them,  which  they 
had  neither  the  moral  courage  nor  firmness  to  resist. 

Day  after  day,  our  ship  continued  to  urge  her  way 
onward  with  rapid  strides,  while  nothing  of  moment 
occurred  to  mar  our  happiness,  or  elate  us  with  joy, 
save  the  prospect  before  us.  Of  the  feelings  which 
agitate  the  bosom  of  the  sailor  on  an  occasion  like 
this,  the  landsman  can  know  but  little.  Hope,  per- 
chance, speaks  of  kindly  greetings,  a reunion  of  those 
long  sundered  by  time  and  space,  the  consummation 
of  the  fancies  of  childhood’s  sunny  hours,  or  Fear 
may  marshal  a dread  train  of  forbodings,  veiling  the 
countenance  in  a pall  of  sorrow.  Four  long  years  ! 
how  great  and  heart-rending  the  changes  which  that 
time  may  have  effected.  How  many  loved  ones  had 
terminated  all  earthly  scenes,  riven  all  the  ties  of  af~ 
22 


254 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


fection,  and  left  naught  behind  save  their  virtues,  and 
a dying  blessing,  to  console  the  wanderer,  as  he  nears 
the  cherished  spot  of  early  life.  Perchance  a mother, 
whose  prayers,  fervent,  heart-breathed  and  effectual, 
which  arose  to  heaven  for  a departing  son,  may  have 
joined  that  vast  congregation  which  has  gone  before 
us;  a father’s  voice,  so  often  heard  in  friendly  coun- 
sels, may  be  hushed  in  death;  loved  associates,  a 
brother,  or  a sister,  whose  memories  may  be  cherished 
as  a sacred  treasure,  to  be  relinquished  only  at  death, 
may  greet  us  no  more.  As  scene  after  scene  comes 
up  as  a memento  of  the  past ; as  spot  after  spot  is  re- 
visited, how  frequent  may  be  the  evidence  that  some 
kindred  spirit  chants  above. 

Some  who  had  left  home  with  the  same  joyous 
hopes  as  ourselves,  mingled  not  with  us  as  we  were 
about  to  step  again  upon  our  native  soil.  One  after 
another  had  been  committed  to  a deep,  dark,  coral 
bed,  surrounded  by  ocean’s  treasures,  to  slumber  until 
the  trump  of  God  shall  summon  the  “ sea  to  give  up 
her  dead.”  The  Sea  Gull’s  crew,  bound  together  by 
endearing  ties  of  friendship,  had  not  been  separated  in 
the  hour  of  dissolution,  but  had  sunk  together,  to  re- 
main until  this  “mortal  shall  put  on  immortality.” 
Some  who  left  the  paternal  roof,  hand  in  hand  with 
ourselves,  could  not  accompany  us  in  our  return. 
Our  approach  was  to  cause  many  a bosom  to  swell 
with  joy  or  heave  with  anguish,  as  the  sad  tidings  of 
the  death  of  loved  ones  should  fall  upon  the  ear,  as 
the  mournful  knell  of  departed  hopes. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  1842,  the  faint  outlines  of 
the  highlands  of  Nevisink  peered  in  view,  pointing 
us  to  our  place  of  destination.  As  we  approached  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


255 


land,  the  wind  died  gradually  away,  and  it  was 
thought  advisable  to  come  to  an  anchor  and  wait  for 
a steamer  to  tow  us  in.  In  a short  time  the  boat  ar- 
rived, and  took  us  to  the  quarantine  ground,  when 
the  health  officer  boarded  us  ; after  a very  short  deten- 
tion we  passed  rapidly  up  the  bay  to  the  city.  As  we 
came  abreast  of  the  North  Carolina,  we  fired  a salute 
of  twenty-six  guns,  at  the  last  of  which  the  broad 
pendant  which  the  Commodore  had  honored  for  more 
than  four  years,  was  hauled  down  and  the  command 
of  the  ship  was  committed  to  Captain  Hudson  of  the 
Peacock,  who  then  proceeded  toward  the  navy  yard, 
and  came  to  a final  anchor.  A steam  boat  was  soon 
along  side,  and  the  joy  with  which  we  passed  our 
bags  and  hammocks,  on  board,  can  be  better  imag- 
ined by  the  reader,  than  expressed  by  myself.  In  the 
short  space  of  two  hours  we  were  all  ashore  in  the 
land  of  our  nativity, — the  toils  and  dangers  of  a long 
and  eventful  cruise  ended,  and  we  were  again  free 
men,  in  “ the  home  of  the  free.” 

As  it  is  probable  that  this  volume  will  be  read  by 
many  a brother  sailor,  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to 
recur  to  incidents  connected  with  landlords,  and  some, 
I am  sorry  to  say,  are  not  only  lordly , but  perfidious. 
To  those  who  have  had  fewer  facilities  of  judging  of 
the  character  of  the  u land  sharks  ” than  myself ; who 
have  observed  less  of  their  intrigues  and  stratagems, 
it  may  be  serviceable  as  a means  of  avoiding  the 
tyrants’  power.  All  may  be  aware  of  the  fact  that  as 
the  hardy  sailor  returns  from  a long  voyage,  with  his 
hard-earned  wages,  this  class  of  men — if  the  term  is 
appropriate — is  ever  ready  to  defraud  such  as  may 
come  within  their  iron  grasp,  but  by  what  means  this 


256 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


is  effected,  some  may  yet  be  ignorant.  They  are,  ap- 
parently, unmoved  by  the  tears  and  moans  of  kindred, 
as  they  see  loved  ones  drawn  into  the  vortex  of  dissi- 
pation and  licentiousness,  indifferent  to  the  common 
claims  of  humanity.  Money  they  wish  and  money 
they  will  have,  though  they  wade  through  seas  of 
blood  to  accomplish  their  ends ; though  the  widowed 
mother  toils  in  sorrow  and  wastes  her  ebbing  energies 
as  the  direct  consequence,  or  orphan  children  suppli- 
cate a meager  pittance  from  a frigid,  heartless  world. 
Is  this  severe  language  1 I would  that  it  were  untrue, 
that  it  were  the  fitful  imaginations  of  a disordered 
brain,  but  many,  ah  l too  many  can  sadly  vouch  for 
its  truthfulness. 

Those  employed  in  our  naval  service,  are  far  more 
in  danger  from  this  source  than  other  seamen ; they 
are  longer  from  the  hallowed  influences  of  home, 
and  the  refining,  reclaiming  tendencies  of  fireside  as- 
sociations. They  are  also  more  exposed  to  the  hard- 
ships, dangers  and  unfavorable  influences  of  a marine 
life,  and  consequently  have  an  almost  irresistible  de- 
sire to  “enjoy  themselves”  (what  enjoyments!)  by 
throwing  off  all  restraint  and  plunging  into  a sense- 
less hilarity  and  inebriation.  Again,  they  ordinarily 
have  larger  amounts  of  money  when  they  come  on 
shore,  and,  as  a natural  consequence,  soon  come  with- 
in the  contaminating  grasp  of  these  modern  harpies, 
and  they  seldom  escape  from  their  talons  until  their 
funds  are  gone,  and  they  are  plunged  low  in  the 
depths  of  degradation  and  ruin,  by  this  arch  enemy, — - 
for  such  he  must  be,  however  artful  his  pretended 
friendship  may  be.  This  apparent  friendship  seems 
very  carefully  graduated  by  the  amount  of  remaining 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


257 


funds,  and  its  last  impulse  dies  away,  as  the  last  cent 
falls  into  his  misery-filled  coffers. 

The  “vilest  of  the  vile,”  of  both  sexes,  are  brought 
into  requisition,  when  a man-of-war  is  reported,  and 
a great  many  new  boarding  houses  are  opened  for  the 
occasion.  The  whole  fraternity  of  conspirators  now 
form  their  plans,  and  the  whole  wharf  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  ship  is  crowded  with  landlords  and  runners, 
and  as  often  as  a sailor  raises  his  head  above  the  net- 
ting, he  is  hailed  with  “mess-mate,”  “ship-mate,”  with 
other  familar  appellations  which  are  most  coaxingly 
applied  to  him,  while  their  countenances  and  hearts 
are  living  exemplifications  of  the  sentiment  expressed 
by  Shakspeare,  “ A man  may  smile  and  smile,  and 
be  a villain ; ” but  as  the  sailor  is  a stranger  to  this 
clan  of  new  boarding  masters,  and  as  he  is  too  frank 
and  honest  himself  to  suspect  their  insincerity,  they 
often  succeed  in  decoying  large  numbers  of  them  into 
their  dens  of  infamy.  The  result  is,  that  the  fruit  of 
years  of  toil  is  dissipated  in  about  as  many  days,  and 
their  pleasant  homes  (?)  are  soon  transformed  into  very 
forbidding  ones,  and  the  victims,  for  whom  they  ex- 
pressed so  much  regard,  are  required  to  find  new 
quarters.  The  purse  being  empty,  the  bags  and 
chests  are  next  rifled,  and  not  a vestige  of  decent 
clothing  remains  which  can  become  available.  Exor- 
bitant and  imaginary  bills,  with  downright  robbery 
for  the  climax,  soon  terminate  the  sailor’s  tarry  on 
shore.  Diseased,  degraded  and  dispirited,  he  is  soon 
obliged  to  ship — or  perhaps  this  is  done  for  him  by 
his  ever- watchful  gaurdian , and  his  advance  secured, 
and  when  he  is  reinstated  on  the  deck  of  the  receiving 
22* 


258 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ship,  he  is  cared  as  little  for  by  the  landlords  as  the 
brutes  that  are  slaughtered  for  his  convenience. 

These  things  were  once  transacted  openly,  but  now 
more  cunning  and  management  are  requisite ; they 
have  recourse  to  every  plot  which  they  can  devise,  to 
facilitate  the  accomplishment  of  their  unworthy  de- 
signs. Draymen  are  bribed  to  obtain  their  clothes, 
hammocks,  (fee.,  under  pretence  of  conveying  them  to 
houses  of  good  reputation,  but  instead  of  this,  they  are 
carried  where  the  premeditated  plunder  is  effected. 

New  York  abounds  in  just  such  places,  and  sailors, 
on  coming  into  port,  must  be  exceedingly  careful  how 
they  select  a boarding  place,  especially  if  they  design 
to  visit  their  friends,  and  devote  their  earnings  to 
more  consistent  objects.  They  must  be  continually 
on  the  alert,  lest  they  are  robbed  while  sober,  but  if 
they  can  be  induced  to  quaff  the  fatal  cup,  they  may 
bid  adieu  to  pleasing  associations  with  friends,  and 
the  sweets  of  domestic  life. 

These  secret  plans  are  skillfully  digested,  and  faith- 
fully executed.  Runners  and  accomplices  are  em- 
ployed and  bountifully  compensated,  making  it  a regu- 
lar business  to  underrate  all  respectable  “homes,”  and 
temperance  boarding  houses;  intoxicating  drink  is  an 
important  agent  in  the  work  of  destruction.  These 
emissaries  will  distinguish  themselves  by  their  coarse 
imprecations,  profane  curses  and  vulgar  epithets; 
nothing  appears  too  harsh  that  can  be  said  respecting 
such  homes  for  the  sailor,  as,  they  are  well  aware,  tend 
directly  to  abridge  their  nefarious  business.  Their 
mental  powers,  it  would  seem,  are  taxed  to  concoct 
falsehoods  which  shall  be  sufficiently  libelous  to  preju- 
dice seamen  against  such  places,  where  they  know 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


259 


that  they  will  be  beyond  their  reach.  Should  these 
fabrications  fail,  their  next  resort,  perchance,  is  to  get 
their  baggage  into  the  hands  of  some  bribed  coach- 
man, under  the  pretext  of  conveying  it  to  a temper- 
ance house,  and  a liberal  fee  will  ensure  the  safe  ar- 
rival at  some  degraded  and  degrading  den  of  infamy, 
and  before  the  sailor  is  aware  of  the  character  of  the 
place,  his  things  are  under  the  control  of  an  intriguing 
landlord,  and  it  is  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  he 
can  recover  his  property,  without  a legal  interference, 
during  which  delay,  should  not  his  pockets  or  his 
chest  be  rifled,  he  may  regard  himself  as  fortunate. 
An  individual  who  will  be  guilty  of  such  cowardly 
and  contemptible  intrigue,  will  not  be  very  scrupulous 
when  he  has  his  victim  within  his  grasp;  what  he 
fails  to  get  by  permission,  he  will  take  by  force. 

Another  stratagem  is  to  employ  some  shrewd  indi- 
vidual to  commence  the  work  of  destruction  while  at 
sea,  who  under  the  garb  of  a shipmate  can  practice 
his  deception  and  be  credited,  however  much  he  might 
traduce  respectable  establishments,  and  discolor  the 
merits  of  other  resorts,  of  which  he  is  a base  hireling 
and  utters  falsehoods  for  the  same  reason  that  he  en- 
gages in  his  ordinary  employments. 

It  is  ordinarily  true,  that  the  payment  on  board  of 
a man-of-war  does  not  occur  until  some  days  after 
their  arrival  at  port ; of  this  circumstance,  the  land- 
lord is  fully  aware,  and  soon  avails  himself  of  this 
advantage.  His  agent  is  furnished  with  funds,  and 
very  generously — as  it  might  seem — supplies  their 
present  wants  by  loaning  money  or  otherwise,  but  is 
particularly  careful  to  be  present  at  the  time  of  pay- 


260 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ment,  and  receives  the  check  from  the  purser,  of 
course  losing  nothing  by  his  investment. 

The  last,  though  not  the  least  of  these  arts  which 
are  devised  to  defraud  the  mariner,  of  which  I shall 
make  mention,  is  performed  by  woman, — woman  did 
I say  ? I will  not  thus  dishonor  that  name,  ever  dear 
to  the  virtuous.  Degraded  and  unprincipled  females, 
by  feigned  smiles  and  hypocritical  and  specious  graces, 
insinuate  themselves  into  favor  with  the  unsuspecting 
sailor,  extorting  from  him  valuable  presents,  or  other- 
wise making  large  draughts  upon  his  funds, — often 
relinquishing  their  victim  only  when  the  last  dollar  is 
transferred  to  their  hands,  with  not  even  an  apology 
for  an  equivalent.  These  individuals  know  well  the 
frankness,  kind-heartedness  and  generosity  of  the 
sailor,  and  effect  his  ruin  when  other  efforts  less  fac- 
inating,  might  fail.  Numerous  instances  of  this  kind 
have  come  under  my  own  observation,  but  a few  will 
suffice  to  illustrate  the  effects  of  such  devices  to  extort 
presents  by  abusing  the  sailor’s  generosity,  and  the 
consequent  treatment.  Two  seamen  with  whom  I 
was  acquainted,  had  returned  from  a cruise  up  the 
Mediterranean,  one  receiving  $280,  and  the  other 
$ 310.  The  landlord  had  a wife  and  daughters  who 
were  adepts  in  this  kind  of  robbery.  I was  shown  a 
valuable  silk  dress,  beside  a considerable  amount  of 
jewelry  which  had  been  presented  by  these  seamen. 
These  were  given  on  Monday;  on  Thursday  they 
were  driven  from  the  house,  and  on  Friday,  while  I 
was  standing  with  them,  these  females  passed  us, 
arm  in  arm  with  seamen  who  had  more  recently  re- 
turned, who  might  have  shared  a similar  fate  at  the 
next  arrival.  As  they  passed  us  on  the  sidewalk,  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


261 


same  beautiful  and  rich  dress  was  drawn  aside,  that 
it  might  not  come  in  contact  with  that  of  the  donor , 
while  the  remark  was  distinctly  heard,  “ I wish  these 
filthy  scamps  would  keep  clear  of  the  sidewalks , and 
not  spoil  people's  nice  clothes."  This  occurred  in 
eight  days  after  their  arrival,  and  what  became  of  the 
$ 590,  I will  leave  the  reader  to  infer. 

This  is  but  one  of  many  similar  incidents,  and 
those  who  have  long  been  familiar  with  this  subject, 
will,  I think,  sustain  me  in  the  assertion  that  “ not 
one  half  has  been  told.”  They  know  well  that  the 
daughters  and  wife  of  the  landlord,  richly  attired, 
promenade  the  public  resorts,  displaying  the  fruits  of 
toil  on  the  c<  mountain  wave,”  the  lavish  gifts  of  the 
afterwards  despised  sailor. 

Lastly,  I will  mention  one  other  means  of  ensnar- 
ing the  sailor.  Many  landlords,  for  the  purpose  of 
the  more  effectually  deceiving,  remove  the  bar,  while 
liquors  are  kept  secretly,  and  every  effort  is  em- 
ployed to  induce  men  to  purchase  it.  In  this  way 
a far  greater  number  is  drawn  into  such  places  only 
to  be  robbed,  than  less  hypocritical  persons,  who  make 
no  pretension  to  temperance  can  obtain.  Others 
again  do  not  keep  spirits  of  any  kind,  yet  quite  as  ef- 
fectually filch  the  sailor,  while  they  preserve  the  ap- 
pearances of  respectability,  and  unfurl  the  banner  of 
temperance  as  a“  false  beacon.”  Two  facts  of  this 
nature  were  divulged  by  a sailor  landlord,  by  way  of 
boasting,  which  X will  insert.  I well  recollect  of 
hearing  the  same  landlord  censuring  Mr.  Morris,  a 
Bethel  preacher,  because  he  did  not  refer  to  his  house 
in  his  prayers,  as  well  as  the  “ Sailor’s  Home,”  a house 
of  the  first  respectability. 


262 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


A sailor  who  had  been  paid  off  from  a man-of-war, 
knowing  that  he  would  be  in  danger  of  being  robbed 
of  his  earnings,  and  wishing  to  remain  on  shore  as 
long  as  possible,  paid  this  landlord  for  one  year’s 
board  in  advance.  In  a short  time  afterward  the  sail- 
or had  been  deprived  of  the  remainder,  and  being  un- 
able to  find  employment  on  shore,  went  to  the  land- 
lord for  a portion  of  his  funds,  as  he  was  compelled  to 
go  to  sea  again,  and  was  in  want  of  clothes.  He  was 
refused,  and  was  obliged  to  go  to  sea  with  the  few  ar- 
ticles that  could  be  purchased  with  a month’s  ad- 
vance, and  leave  his  money  behind  him.  The  land- 
lord soon  afterward  removed  to  the  state  of  Maine. 

Another  man  boarded  with  him  at  the  same  time, 
who  deposited  fifty  dollars  with  the  landlady  for 
safe  keeping,  offering  her  enough  of  it  to  purchase  a 
dress,  for  her  trouble.  On  the  next  day,  when  he 
asked  her  for  a few  dollars,  he  was  informed  that  she 
had  used  it  all  for  her  dress,  and  the  poor  fellow  was 
left  penniless,  nor  did  he  ever  recover  one  cent  of  his 
investment.  This  is  one  of  the  temperance  boarding 
houses,  of  which  every  sailor  should  beware.  It  is 
not  a specimen  of  temperance  houses,  nor  should  such 
assume  the  name.  There  are  many  homes  for  the 
sailor,  where  temperance  principles  are  strictly  ad- 
hered to,  and  where  the  welfare  of  boarders  is  con- 
scientiously regarded.  A list  of  these  houses  will  be 
found  in  each  number  of  the  Sailor’s  Magazine,  pub- 
lished by  the  American  Seamen’s  Friend  Society. 

This  is  but  a system  of  miniature  piracy,  and  it  is 
presumed  that  in  no  fraudulent  enterprise  is  there 
more  concert  of  action,  more  deeply  laid  plans,  or 
more  success  in  pilfering,  when  the  amount  of  funds 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


263 


and  the  extent  of  the  field  of  action  are  taken  into 
the  account.  True  or  false  colors  are  raised,  as  may 
best  suit  convenience,  or  best  promote  the  objects.  As 
the  wages  are  nearly  exhausted  the  attentions  become 
less  and  less ; the  Mr.  is  forgotten,  and  “ jack”  is  sub- 
stituted ; pointed  remarks  in  reference  to  li  long  stays 
on  shore”  become  more  frequent ; after,  neglect  ensues, 
and  should  this  fail,  he  is  thrust  into  the  streets  to  lie 
scorned  and  maltreated  until  he  becomes  awake  to 
the  sadness  of  his  situation,  leaving  behind  him,  per- 
haps, the  last  cent  of  his  wages  and  advance.  He  has 
no  other  alternative  but  to  rush  from  the  scenes  of  his 
degradation,  a disconsolate,  misery-stricken  mortal. 

Happy  would  it  be  if  one  misfortune  of  this  kind 
were  sufficient  to  serve  as  a beacon  for  the  remainder 
of  life ; but  not  so.  The  snare  is  laid  in  new  and  ev- 
er-varying forms,  victim  after  victim  is  entangled,  in- 
volving them  deeper  and  deeper  in  misery  and  ruin. 

It  is  a painful  fact  that  our  fears  in  reference  to  our 
own  crew,  were  sadly  realized.  As  toilsome  as  had 
been  our  cruise;  though  dangers  had  crowded  thickly 
around  us,  yet  they  were  literally  increased  as  we 
greeted  familiar  faces  in  this  great  emporium  of  com- 
merce. But  a few  days  had  elapsed  before  some  who 
had  been  long  associated  with  us,  and  who  were  en- 
deared to  us  by  lasting  bonds,  were  groveling  in  pol- 
lution and  drunkenness.  Before  the  expiration  of  one 
week,  many  had  been  placed  on  board  the  receiving 
ship,  the  earnings  of  the  entire  cruise  exhausted,  some 
never  having  seen  the  checks  which  had  been  trans- 
ferred to  the  grasping  landlords.  Many  who  had  had 
bright  hopes  of  pleasing  intercourse  with  their  kindred, 
were  denied  that  sacred  privilege,  and  instead  of  a 


264 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


few  weeks  of  recreation  and  exemption  from  the  dan- 
gers of  an  ocean  life,  were  soon  to  commence  another 
cruise  of  years,  probably  to  react  the  same  scenes  of 
vice  and  dissipation. 

Others,  again,  had  departed  in  different  directions, 
and  were  soon  revisiting  the  homes  of  their  childhood, 
where  four  years  before  they  had  pressed  the  parting 
hand. 

The  events  of  the  Expedition  can  not  but  awaken 
peculiarly  lively  emotions  in  all  who  participated  in 
its  deeply  interesting  incidents.  Five  hundred  men 
had  left  Norfolk  to  visit  bleak  and  untraversed  parts 
of  the  world,  in  which  cruise  a deep,  dark  uncertain- 
ty necessarily  enshrouded  our  undertakings.  The 
sequel  proved  it  to  be  such ; of  the  five  hundred,  but 
two  hundred  and  thirty-six  reached  the  shore  at  that 
time.  A portion  of  the  remainder  arrived  at  different 
times,  and  some  slept  in  coral  beds,  to  obey  the  sum- 
mons of  Omnipotence,  when  the  unnumbered  millions 
of  ocean’s  children  shall  rise  above  its  troubled  bosom 
an  august  assemblage,  and  join  the  vast  universe  of 
created  intelligences. 

The  remote  results  of  this  Expedition  cannot  easily 
be  predicted.  Though  the  continent  discovered  may 
not  be,  and  perhaps  may  never  be  capable  of  being 
peopled,  its  discovery  was  an  acquisition  to  science 
which  may  not  be  easily  appreciated.  We  had  visit- 
ed unknown  nooks  of  the  globe,  navigated  unexplored 
seas,  and  surveyed  many  islands  of  which  there  was 
no  previous  knowledge.  Hidden  rocks  and  danger- 
ous reefs  had  been  laid  down  upon  charts,  that  future 
adventurers  may  not  hazard  life  and  property,  while 
extending  the  conquests  of  commerce  and  enterprise. 


REMINISCENCES, 


WRECK  OF  THE  PEACOCK. 


The  sailor’s  life  is  emphatically  one  of  toil  and  dan- 
ger. He  braves  the  tempest’s  rage,  the  tornado’s 
power,  the  lightning’s  glare,  the  attack  of  pirates, — 
not  only  on  shipboard,  but  on  the  shore.  He  is  liable 
at  any  and  every  moment  to  be  roused  from  his  slum- 
bers, to  defend  himself  and  that  committed  to  his 
charge,  against  the  attacks  of  the  ruthless  bravado,  or 
to  struggle  with  the  warring  elements.  This  fact  is 
very  aptly  illustrated  in  an  eventful  cruise  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  Ship  Peacock  from  the  Island  of  Zanzibar 
to  the  coast  of  Arabia.  This  was  commenced  in  the 
month  of  September ; the  weather  was  delightful,  and 
the  smiles  of  heaven  and  earth  combined,  seemed  to 
augur  a safe  and  speedy  voyage  to  the  abode  of  Ish- 
mael’s  descendants.  The  thermometer  ranged  from  80 
deg.  to  85  deg.,  except  on  the  12th,  when  it  arose  to 
90  deg.,  at  which  time  we  crossed  the  equator.  On 
the  following  day  we  had  the  most  magnificent  dis- 
play of  light  and  colors  which  the  eye  of  man  has 
ever  witnessed.  At  4 o’clock  the  wind  died  away, — 
not  a breath  gave  the  least  ripple  to  the  glassy  surface 


266 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


of  the  ocean  ; not  even  a flattering  of  the  royals  was 
discernible.  As  the  sun  neared  the  western  horizon, 
a curtain  of  fleecy  white  clouds  that  lay  outspread 
like  a spacious  mantle,  extending  from  the  north-east 
to  the  far  south,  began  to  be  tinged  with  a faint  yel- 
low, which  continued  to  deepen  through  gold,  orange 
and  scarlet,  to  the  richest,  deepest  crimson ; the  sun 
seemed  to  go  down  swelling  with  pride,  as  it  waded 
through  this  flood  of  glory  to  his  western  retreat. 

The  colors  were  presented  with  a brilliancy  so  daz- 
zling, so  indescribably  magnificent,  that  any  attempt 
to  give  an  adequate  idea  of  their  grandeur  would  be 
ineffectual.  The  ocean  too,  as  if  to  lend  its  aid,  pre- 
sented a broad  expanse  of  a mirror-like  surface,  reflect- 
ing the  glittering  glories  of  the  heavens,  and  adding 
a tenfold  splendor  and  sublimity  to  the  scene.  All  on 
board  came  upon  deck,  and  so  intensely  were  all  ab- 
sorbed in  the  gorgeousness  of  the  display,  that  not  a 
sound  was  heard  for  a considerable  time,  save  some 
involuntary  ejaculations  of  astonishment  and  admi- 
ration. 

About  ten  minutes  after  sunset,  a faint  breeze  began 
to  wave  the  lighter  sails,  and  the  commanding  voice 
of  the  officer,  giving  the  order, — “Lay  aft  to  the  bra- 
ces,” was  the  first  sound  that  broke  the  stillness  of 
that  beautiful  evening.  The  order  was  followed  by 
the  rattling  of  blocks  and  cordage,  and  the  hasty  tread 
of  seamen  about  the  decks.  The  sails  were  trimmed, 
and  the  breeze  continued  to  freshen  until  daylight, 
when  we  were  dashing  through  the  brine  at  the  rate 
of  nine  “knots.”  We  were  vapidly  leaving  that 
beautiful  spot,  yet  I dare  predict  that  not  a man  will 
ever  forget  that  sunset  scene  in  the  Indian  Ocean. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


267 


We  passed  on  gaily  and  quietly,  nothing  of  note  oc- 
curing  until  the  20th,  when  a train  of  circumstances, 
following  closely  in  the  “ wake  ” of  each  other,  gave 
us  an  additional  illustration  of  the  “ lights  and  shad- 
ows ” of  a sailor’s  life.  Every  thing  had  borne  an  en- 
couraging aspect,  and  all  were  cheered  with  the  bright 
prospect  of  soon  reaching  Arabia,  and  partaking  the 
delicacies  which  that  fertile  soil  so  abundantly  pro- 
duces, and  where  we  might  become  acquainted  with 
the  maimers,  customs,  costumes  and  matters  of  general 
interest  among  this  singular  class  of  people,  but  how 
illustrative  of  the  fact  that  we  u know  not  what  a day 
may  bring  forth.”  Between  “ five  and  six  bells,”*  on 
the  night  of  the  20th,  while  the  watch  below  were  se- 
curely sleeping  in  their  hammocks,  the  ship  struck 
with  great  violence  upon  a reef  of  coral  rocks.  In  an 
instant  every  thing  was  bustle  and  confusion ; — ail 
hands  rushed  on  deck.  The  ship  continued  to  urge 
her  way  among  the  rocks,  until  her  collision  with 
them  produced  a continuous  sound,  resembling  the 
rumbling  of  thunder,  and  before  the  studding  sails 
could  be  taken  in,  and  lighter  sails  furled,  the  ship 
had  forced  her  way  about  one  mile  and  a half  among 
the  rocks  of  the  reef.  It  was  nearly  a half  hour  be- 
fore the  ship  was  fairly  stopped,  and  from  that  time 
until  daylight,  she  continued  to  strike  violently,  so 
that  no  one  could  stand  upon  deck  without  attaching 
himself  to  the  rigging.  As  soon  as  it  became  suffi- 
ciently light  to  distinguish  objects  at  a distance,  we 
discovered  a low  sand  beach,  nearly  encircling  us  at  a 
considerable  distance.  There  was  also  some  higher 


From  half  past  5 to  6 o’clock. 


26S 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


land  near,  which  proved  to  be  an  island.  To  add  to 
onr  distress,  we  found  that  we  had  run  on  the  reef  at 
high  water,  at  the  height  of  the  spring  tide.  Orders 
were  immediately  given  to  “ break  out”  the  spare 
spars,  booms,  &c.,  lower  all  the  boats  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble. The  yards  and  topmasts  were  sent  down,  and 
every  effort  made  to  ease  the  ship,  but  still  she  con- 
tinued to  strike  heavily.  Soon  afterward  the  tide  be- 
gan to  ebb,  and  the  ship  began  to  careen  so  much 
that  it  was  necessary  to  set  a spar  on  the  reef,  to  par- 
tially prevent  it.  The  spare  spars  were  then  thrown 
overboard  and  formed  into  a raft,  upon  which  fifty  or 
sixty  barrels  of  beef  and  pork  were  placed ; ten  thou- 
sand gallons  of  fresh  water  were  discharged,  large 
quantities  of  grape  and  canister,  &c.,  were  thrown 
overboard  for  the  purpose  of  lightening  the  ship. 

During  the  day  we  saw  several  proads  or  prows , 
filled  with  men,  sailing  around  us  occasionally,  and 
intently  watching  our  movements.  The  captain,  pilot, 
and  passed  midshipman,  and  several  seamen  left  the 
ship  for  the  purpose  of  speaking  them,  but  they 
avoided  them,  brandishing  their  sWords  and  sailing 
toward  a point  of  land  near,  where  they  anchored. 
We  had  but  little  doubt  of  their  character,  and  had 
reason  to  expect  an  intended  attack  at  night.  Ac- 
cordingly we  made  all  necessary  preparations  to  re- 
ceive them  in  a soldier-like  manner,  with  the  “ honors 
of  war.’.5  Every  officer  and  man  slept  with  eutlases, 
pistols,  muskets,  pike  or  battle  axes  at  hand,  but  we 
were  not  disturbed  at  this  time. 

On  the  next  morning  a boat  was  sent  out  for  the 
purpose  of  sounding;  it  was  found  that  there  was  not 
as  much  water  astern  of  the  ship  as  on  the  day  of  the 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


269 


collision,  though  it  was  high  water.  After  taking  re- 
freshments— raw  pork  and  bread — we  continued  to 
lighten  the  ship  by  throwing  over  two  chain  cables, 
several  hundred  fathoms  of  hawser,  after  having  buoy- 
ed them.  At  noon  we  succeeded  in  taking  an  obser- 
vation, and  ascertained  that  the  high  land  was  the 
small  Island  of  Muceiva,  in  latitude  20  deg.,  and 
longitude  58  deg.  east,  and  almost  fifteen  miles  from 
Arabia  Felix,  or  Happy  Arabia.  About  this  time  the 
pirates  had  considerably  increased,  having  some  eight 
or  nine  prows , containing  from  twenty  to  sixty  men 
each;  they  ran  down  near  us  and  anchored,  forming 
themselves  into  a line  of  battle, — a position  very  un- 
favorable to  us,  as  the  situation  of  our  ship  gave  such  an 
elevation  to  our  guns  that  we  could  not  dislodge  them. 
All  hands  were  called  to  quarters  and  furnished  with 
small  arms,  preparatory  to  the  expected  encounter. 
The  warlike  appearance  of  our  ship,  and  the  sight  of 
some  of  our  men,  who  inadvertently  arose  above  the 
netting,  probably  deprived  us  of  an  opportunity  of 
teaching  them  an  important  lesson  in  military  tactics, 
and  the  futility  of  attacking  a yankee  man-of-war, 
though  in  distress.  The  chiefs  of  the  different  prows 
assembled  in  one  of  the  savage  vessels  and  held  a con- 
sultation, and  afterward  two  of  them  jumped  into  the 
sea  and  approached  the  ship.  A rope  was  thrown  to 
them  to  assist  them  in  coming  on  board,  but  they  look- 
ed terribly  frightened  when  they  saw  themselves  in 
the  presence  of  two  hundred  men,  armed  with  all  the 
implements  of  naval  warfare. 

We  had,  while  at  Zanzibar,  become  acquainted 
with  a Polish  officer,  who  had  taken  passage  with  us. 
This  man  was  the  only  one  on  board  who  could 
23* 


270 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


speak  the  Arabian  language,  and  was  employed  as 
our  interpreter.  They  had  not  been  on  board  but  a 
few  moments,  before  they  had  the  hardihood  to  ask 
how  much  money,  and  how  many  men  we  had  on 
board ; they  were  answered  that  we  had  an  abund- 
ance of  both.  The  interpreter  was  then  directed  to 
ascertain  their  terms  upon  which  they  would  carry  a 
message  to  the  Sultan  at  Muscat,  returning  the  reply. 
Although  the  distance  was  not  more  than  might  have 
been  traveled  in  one  day,  they  refused  to  go  for  less 
than  $1000  ! In  a short  time  they  left  us,  made  sail 
and  did  not  trouble  us  farther  for  the  day. 

On  the  next  morning  six  men  volunteered  to  go  in 
an  open  boat  to  Muscat,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
Mr.  Roberts,  Minister  to  the  East  Indian  and  Asiatic 
Courts,  and  Mr.  Rogers  Taylor,  a passed  midshipman, 
a most  excellent  and  brave  gentleman,  a native  of 
Newport,  R.  I.  The  next  morning  at  daylight,  they 
left  the  ship  to  perform  their  arduous  journey.  It 
was  soon  observed  that  the  pirates  had  concerted  an 
attack  upon  them,  and  were  in  hot  pursuit. 

Preparations  were  continued  on  board  the  ship,  to 
effect  an  escape  from  the  reef  if  possible.  The  stream 
anchor  was  dropped  astern,  with  one  hundred  fathoms 
of  cable,  and  the  capstan  manned,  but  without  mov- 
ing the  ship.  At  last,  finding  that  she  would  not 
float  at  high  tide,  we  were  driven  to  the  painful  ne- 
cessity of  throwing  a portion  of  our  guns  overboard; 
she  then  righted,”  and  by  means  of  the  anchor,  we 
succeeded  in  starting  from  our  unpleasant  position. 
The  fifer  commenced  that  soul -thrilling  air  of  the  sail- 
or, “ The  girl  I left  behind  me,”  the  men  marching  in 
time  with  the  music,  with  hearts  as  buoyant  as  if 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


271 


nothing  had  befallen  us,  while  the  ship  was  rapidly 
moving  from  her  dangerous  moorings.  It  was  amus- 
ing to  witness  the  ardor  with  which  the  men  performed 
their  circuit:  when  the  fifer  was  unable,  from  fatigue, 
to  give  us  music,  the  sailors  were  not  at  a loss  to  sup- 
ply that  deficiency,  by  substituting  songs  of  their 
own,  making  some  music,  but  more  jargon.  A color- 
ed man  rendered  very  important  services  on  this  joy- 
ous occasion,  by  a sudden  peal  of  a favorite  air,  com- 
mencing with,  “I  wish  I was  in  yankee  town,”  in 
which  he  was  joined  by  about  two  hundred  stentorian 
voices,  and  when  the  chorus — u’Tis  time  for  us  to 
go,”  was  struck,  it  might  remind  one  of  an  earthquake 
in  miniature.  The  scene,  though  animating,  was 
really  ludicrous. 

Whether  attributable  to  the  power  of  music  or 
otherwise,  one  thing  is  certain,  which  is,  that  the  cap- 
stan was  rapidly  revolving  and  the  ship  was  grating 
harshly  over  the  coral  bed,  and  was  soon  beyond  the 
reach  of  danger.  We  again  felt  free,  had  less  to  fear 
from  attacks  of  the  pirates,  though  their  number 
should  be  much  increased.  Though  disabled  and  de- 
prived of  many  of  our  guns  and  other  necessary  im- 
plements. we  were  afloat  on  our  loved  element,  and 
felt  that  we  could  cope  with  a similar  force,  should 
circumstances  require  it. 

During  this  time  we  had  been  obliged  to  leave  our 
raft.,  provisions,  &c.,  at  the  place  where  we  commenced 
lightening.  This  had  been  observed  by  the  eagle-eyed 
pirates,  and  they  determined  to  avail  themselves  of  an 
opportunity  to  plunder  us  before  the  ship  could  be  in 
readiness  to  pursue  them.  At  12  o’clock,  while  we 
were  refreshing  ourselves,  an  alarm  was  given;  the 


272 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


marines  were  immediately  mustered,  and  a volley  of 
musketry  was  discharged  from  the  quarter  deck,  but 
the  distance  was  so  great  that  it  did  no  execution. 
Lieut.  Gordon  sprang  into  the  boat,  followed  by 
Messrs.  Darlington  and  Caldwell,  and  twenty  seamen; 
we  made  all  possible  speed  to  the  windward  of  the 
prow  which  had  stolen  our  provisions.  The  pirates 
kept  close  in  under  the  land,  following  the  curvature 
of  the  beach,  in  order  to  avoid  an  attack  from  the 
ship.  As  soon  as  they  arrived  at  a position  in  which 
the  guns  could  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them,  they 
opened  a broad-side  upon  the  prows,  but  did  not  reach 
them,  as  they  were  some  three  or  four  miles  distant. 

It  was  an  exciting  time  for  us  in  the  boat ; we  were 
laboring  at  the  oars  with  our  full  strength,  while  the 
roaring  of  the  thirty-two  pounders,  and  the  rushing  of 
the  shot,  hissing  and  yelling  over  our  heads,  as  they 
were  sent  on  an  errand  of  vengeance  to  the  freebooters, 
together  with  the  expectation  of  grappling  with  them, 
though  at  least  three  times  as  numerous  as  ourselves, 
gave  a zest  to  our  enterprise  which  should  be  experi- 
enced to  be  appreciated.  Fortunately  for  them,  we 
broke  two  of  our  oars,  which  materially  diminished 
our  strength. 

By  this  time  the  chief  seemed  confident  of  his  abil- 
ity to  outsail  us,  and,  jumping  into  the  bow  of  his 
boat,  brandished  his  creece  in  defiance,  while  it  glitter- 
ed and  -sparkled  in  the  sunbeams.  This  was  too 
much  for  us.  I raised  my  musket,  and  suddenly  lev- 
eled it  at  him,  when  he  dropped  his  creece  and  fell 
into  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  This  was  followed  by  a 
general  discharge  from  all  in  the  launch.  How  many 
were  destroyed  we  were  unable  to  ascertain ; it  was 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


273 


certain,  however,  that  a large  number  was  wounded. 
They  succeeded  in  passing  in  about  a half  musket 
shot  in  the  advance  of  us,  carrying  off  some  of  our  spars 
and  one  or  two  barrels  of  provisions.  We  gave  up 
the  chase  and  returned  to  the  ship,  highly  incensed  at 
the  conduct  of  these  base  marauders,  who  could  thus 
plunder  us  while  in  distress. 

The  next  tide  we  worked  the  ship  still  farther 
from  the  reef,  £nd  at  night,  slept  with  our  arms  by 
our  sides.  On  the  following  morning,  at  daylight,  we 
learned  that  the  enemy  had  very  much  increased  their 
number,  and  were  again  standing  down  for  us,  prob- 
ably elated  with  their  success  on  the  preceding  day. 
We  were  well  aware  of  their  intentions,  and  made 
preparations  to  welcome  them.  We  had  now  ^right- 
ed,” and  had  eleven  thirty-two  pounders  on  deck, 
with  which  we  could  have  met  a very  much  greater 
number.  It  was  the  universal  desire  that  they  should 
attack  us  during  the  day.  In  the  mean  time  our  la- 
bors were  continued  as  usual.  We  parted  one  of  our 
hawsers,  and  lost  our  stream  cable  and  anchor.  The 
Commodore’s  gig  was  laying  off,  and  several  boats, 
with  grapplings,  were  busily  engaged  in  attempting 
to  secure  them.  While  our  boats  were  thus  engaged, 
the  pirates  attempted  to  run  between  them  and  the 
ship,  so  that  an  attack  upon  them  would  endanger 
the  lives  of  our  men.  They  were  carefully  watched 
and  their  manoeuvres  perfectly  understood.  When 
they  had  approached  sufficiently  near,  we  poured  a 
broad-side  of  grape  and  canister  upon  them.  The 
shot  went  whistling  among  them,  carrying  away 
their  masts,  tearing  their  sails  and  dashing  large 
quantities  of  water  among  the  affrighted  desperadoes. 


274 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


No  sooner  did  they  learn  their  mistake  than  they 
11  tacked  ship,”  and  attempted  to  escape  from  our 
destructive  fire,  but  it  was  no  easy  matter;  we  con- 
tinued a constant  fire  as  long  as  they  were  within 
reach  of  us,  much  to  their  chagrin,  no  doubt.  It  is 
impossible  to  determine  with  any  accuracy  what 
their  loss  was,  but  judging  from  the  hideous  yells 
that  arose  from  all  their  boats,  it  was  evident  that  the 
work  of  destruction  had  been  extensive.  The  prin- 
cipal regret  on  our  part,  seemed  to  have  been  that  we 
were  not  able  to  give  them  “a  little  more  grape.” 

They  were  a wandering  tribe  of  Arabs,  inhabiting 
the  desert  and  known  by  the  name  of  Bedouins  ; they 
have  no  established  government,  and  live  by  plunder- 
ing such  as  may  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  wrecked 
on  their  coast,  while  they  carry  the  captured  crews 
into  the  desert,  and  subject  them  to  the  most  abject 
slavery.  They  are  regarded  by  the  Sultan,  as  pirates 
are  with  us,  and  are  executed,  when  captured,  with- 
out trial  by  jury.  They  probably  learned  a lesson 
in  this  instance,  that  will  make  them  somewhat  re- 
luctant to  attack  a yankee  man-of-war,  though  strand- 
ed on  their  coast. 

That  afternoon  we  worked  the  ship  into  about  five 
fathoms,  after  which  all  hands  were  called  to  “ splice 
the  main  brace,”  as  an  expression  of  commendation 
(a  ruinous  practice,  by  the  way.)  It  was  found  nec- 
essary to  keep  a quarter  watch  at  the  pumps,  as  the 
ship  was  making  fifteen  inches  of  water  per  hour ; 
half  of  her  false  keel  had  been  torn  off,  the  copper  dis- 
placed to  some  extent,  and  what  other  damage,  we 
could  not  determine.  The  ship  was  put  in  as  good 
condition  as  circumstances  would  allow,  preparatory 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


2 75 


to  making  sail  for  Muscat,  which  occurred  on  the 
27th. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th,  while  on  our  passage, 
we  saw  a ship  approaching  us  ; she  continued  to  bear 
down  for  us  until  within  about  three  miles,  when  she 
“ rounded  to,”  fired  a gun  and  raised  Arabian  colors. 
Finding  that  we  did  not  notice  her,  she  approached 
nearer  and  fired  again ; this  was  answered  by  us,  at 
the  same  time  hoisting  our  colors.  When  she  was 
within  one  mile  of  us  we  saw  a few  men  on  the  fore- 
castle, dressed  in  the  style  of  American  seamen.  She 
hoisted  out  her  boat  which  was  soon  along  side,  bring- 
ing, beside  her  own  crew,  Mr.  Taylor  and  the  crew  of 
our  2d  cutter.  A smile  of  satisfaction  animated  the 
faces  of  all  on  board,  while  the  cordial  grasp  indica- 
ted the  warmth  of  attachment  which  existed  among 
the  crew.  Dangers,  distress  and  trials  bind  hearts 
together  more  firmly  than  prosperity  and  pleasures 
can,  and  the  recent  events  that  we  had  encountered, 
strengthened  more  and  more  the  bonds  of  attachment 
that  had  previously  bound  us  together. 

We  soon  learned  the  results  of  the  expedition  of  our 
2d  cutter,  which  had  been  previously  despatched  to 
Muscat.  Finding  that  the  pirates  would  overtake 
them,  they  steered  broad  off  to  sea.  They  followed 
them  nearly  out  of  sight  of  the  land,  but,  having  no 
compass,  did  not  dare  follow  them  farther.  That  night 
they  encountered  a severe  gale,  in  which  the  boat 
came  near  being  swamped,  off  the  Island  of  Maceiva ; 
they  nailed  tarpaulins  over  the  boat,  leaving  apertures 
through  which  the  head  of  the  oarsman  could  be 
thrust,  and  by  dint  of  toil  at  the  oars  and  bailing, 
they  succeeded  in  keeping  afloat,  until  the  gale  was 


276 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


over,  when  they  sailed  for  Muscat,  where  they 
arrived  in  safety  after  four  days’  sail.  As  they  round- 
ed the  point,  and  entered  the  harbor,  they  hoisted  the 
boat’s  ensign  and  made  for  the  city.  The  Sultan’s 
palace  stands  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  close  to  the  water. 
He  discovered  the  boat,  and  as  soon  as  he  observed  the 
American  colors,  he  sent  an  officer  to  meet  them,  and 
came  himself  to  welcome  them.  He  had  had  an  ac- 
quaintance with  Mr.  Roberts ; the  meeting  was  one  of 
thrilling  interest  to  all  who  saw  it.  When  he  learned 
that  our  ship  was  in  distress  on  his  coast,  the  finer 
feelings  of  his  nature  were  aroused,  and  he  deeply 
sympathized  with  us  in  our  misfortunes.  He  imme- 
diately ordered  a sloop  of  war,  then  lying  at  the  har- 
bor, to  be  fitted  up  and  to  be  placed  in  our  service, 
together  with  the  crew.  He  also  ordered  his  general 
to  detach  400  of  his  best  men,  to  march  immediately 
over  land  to  the  place  of  disaster,  to  assist  and  protect 
us,  were  we  obliged  to  abandon  the  ship.  The  de- 
tachment left  the  same  night,  marching  under  Amer- 
ican colors,  and  hastened  on  their  errand  of  mercy. 
The  sloop  was  soon  in  readiness,  and  was  freighted 
with  sheep,  goats,  buffaloes,  fruit  and  water,  to  supply 
us,  should  they  meet  us  on  the  passage.  This  was 
the  vessel  that  we  had  met,  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Taylor,  whose  appointment  was  ratified  by  the  Com- 
modore, when  he  came  on  board.  Our  ship  was  soon 
filled  with  Arabian  fruit,  which  was  a most  welcome 
gift  to  us  at  that  time,  after  so  long  a season  of  inces- 
sant toil.  The  fruit  consisted  principally  of  grapes, 
fresh  and  preserved  dates,  pomegranates,  and  melons 
of  various  kinds.  The  pomegranates  were  a rare 
fruit,  having  never  seen  them  before.  They  are  of 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


277 


about  the  size  of  a quince,  of  a light  green  color ; they 
are  enclosed  in  a hard  and  brittle  shell  or  rind.  On 
opening,  the  whole  inside  is  filled  with  detached  parts 
or  berries,  like  our  currants,  very  much  resembling 
them  in  taste.  Fresh  figs  just  plucked  from  the  trees 
were  also  very  abundant. 

Our  passage  was  very  slow  at  this  time,  owing,  in 
part,  to  head  winds,  calms,  &c.,  and  to  the  shattered 
condition  of  our  vessel.  On  the  morning  of  the  29th, 
however,  an  incident  occurred  which  relieved  us  of 
some  of  our  difficulties.  We  ran  into  a large  shoal  of 
sun-fish,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  sea  animal- 
cules, only  larger,  and  of  a transparent  jelly.  This 
shoal  extended  for  several  miles,  and  while  the  ship 
was  passing  them,  they  were  pressed  with  great  force 
into  the  bottom,  nearly  stopping  the  leak,  very  much 
to  our  satisfaction. 

On  the  28th,  we  were  passing  Cape  Rosalgat,  about 
eighty  miles  from  Muscat.  Every  day  after  the  sloop 
met  us,  the  Sultan’s  barge  came  down  to  us,  loaded 
deeply  with  cattle,  fruits  and  vegetables.  We  were 
now  making  rapid  progress  toward  the  haven. 

As  soon  as  we  rounded  the  point,  coming  in  sight 
of  the  forts,  they  commenced  an  incessant  firing,  at 
the  same  time  hoisting  the  American  flag.  So  dense 
was  the  smoke  and  so  continuous  the  firing,  that  little 
could  be  seen  save  a thick  cloud  of  smoke,  curling  far 
above  and  around  the  fort;  few  sounds  were  heard 
but  those  of  the  deep-toned  cannon,  belching  forth  its 
emblems  of  destruction.  In  about  thirty  minutes  the 
fort  ceased,  and  we  raised  the  Arabian  ensign,  return- 
ing a salute  of  twenty-seven  guns.  Immediately  after 
our  arrival,  we  were  visited  by  several  gentlemen 
24 


278 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


from  the  shore,  who  gave  us  a very  cordial  reception. 
Our  decks  were  well  stored  with  fruits,  provisions,  &c., 
and  there  was  a nearer  resemblance  to  Fulton  Market 
than  to  a yankee  man-of-war.  The  Sultan  had  sent 
off  hundreds  of  fowls,  droves  of  cattle  and  sheep,  &c., 
all  of  which  blending  their  croaking,  bellowing,  bleat- 
ing and  cackling,  produced  a jargon  that  might  re- 
mind one  of  the  “ confusion  of  languages.’7 

During  the  entire  day  we  were  surrounded  with 
boats,  loaded  with  cakes,  milk,  butter,  melons  and 
fruits,  offered  for  sale.  And  here  it  is  but  just  that  I 
should  say  something  of  the  honesty  of  the  Arabs,  in 
their  dealings  among  themselves,  and  also  with 
strangers.  When  their  articles  were  presented  for 
sale,  the  absence  of  money  seemed  no  hindrance  to 
the  purchase.  When  told  that  we  wished  for  their 
articles  but  had  no  money,  they  were  quite  willing  to 
adopt  the  “ credit  system.”  Dialogues  like  the  fol- 
lowing, frequently  occurred.  “You  want?”  Yes. 
“You  got  no  money?”  None.  “You  pay  by  and 
by,  John?”  Yes.  “Take.”  At  their  visit  on  the 
following  day,  they  would  usually  ask,  “ You  got  no 
money  to-day,  John?”  No.  “You  want  bread, 
butter,  fruit,  milk,  cheese?  Take  what  you  like.” 
The  inhabitants  of  civilized  society  might  learn  some 
important  lessons  of  humanity  and  honesty  from  this 
class  of  Arabians. 

Capt.  California,  commander  of  the  Arabian  navy, 
is  one  of  the  handsomest  men  that  I ever  saw;  he 
speaks  excellent  English.  At  his  visit  on  the  4th,  he 
brought  some  ten  or  fifteen  divers  with  him.  These 
divers,  after  having  prepared  a split  stick,  and  fasten- 
ed it  upon  the  nose,  to  prevent  the  admission  of  water, 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


279 


would  sink  and  remain  about  two  minutes  under  the 
vessel.  They  reported  that  the  copper  was  nearly 
off,  and  brought  up  some  of  the  loose  sheets,  and 
quantities  of  the  sheathing,  assuring  us  that  there 
were  large  holes,  filled  with  weeds  and  sun-fish. 

Capt.  California’s  son  was  with  him,  a lad  of  about 
10  years  of  age  ; he  exhibited  clearly  a praiseworthy 
sense  of  honor,  so  characteristic  of  the  Arabians.  He 
had  brought  his  gun  on  board  for  the  purpose  of  hav- 
ing it  repaired ; he  wore  a cartridge-box,  containing 
twenty  silver  cases  for  powder,  each  case  having  a 
high-wrought  silver  cover.  In  addition  to  this,  he 
wore  an  Arabian  dirk,  silver- mounted,  very  highly 
burnished,  and  worth,  at  least,  fifty  dollars.  Lieut. 
Gordon  proposed  to  fill  his  cases  with  powder  in  ex- 
change for  his  dirk,  for  the  purpose  of  testing  his  hon- 
esty. To  this  he  immediately  assented,  drawing  his 
dirk  and  presenting  it.  It  was  placed  where  he  could 
take  it,  should  he  choose  to  do  so,  but  he  seemed  sat- 
isfied with  the  exchange,  notwithstanding  the  con- 
trast of  the  respective  values.  It  was  then  taken 
from  his  presence,  and  placed  in  the  ward-room ; of 
this  he  seemed  to  take  no  notice.  At  last,  finding 
that  he  did  not  intend  to  regain  his  favorite  weapon, 
it  was  produced,  as  he  was  about  to  leave  the  ship, 
and  offered  to  him,  but  he  refused  to  receive  it.  It 
was  urged  upon  him,  but  he  firmly  refused  to  accept 
it,  asserting  that  it  had  been  bought  and  paid  for,  and 
that  it  would  not  be  right  to  accept  it.  Finally,  find- 
ing that  all  our  efforts  would  prove  ineffectual,  his  fa- 
ther took  it  and  replaced  it  in  his  belt ; at  this  his 
eyes  filled  with  tears,  and  raising  his  hand  and  look- 
ing mournfully  into  his  father’s  face,  he  said,  “ Allah 


280 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


knows  that  I don’t  want  it.”  I could  but  think  that 
there  are  many  boys  even  in  the  United  States,  who 
should  come  within  the  reclaiming  influence  of  our 
civil,  literary  and  religious  institutions,  who  might 
with  much  propriety  emulate  the  example  of  this  lad, 
though  surrounded  with  the  gloom  of  barbarism,  and 
moral  darkness  of  Mohammedanism. 

During  our  stay,  the  young  prince,  son  of  the  Sul- 
tan, was  married,  on  which  occasion  the  officers  were 
invited  to  be  present ; a salute  of  seventeen  guns  was 
fired,  which  was  responded  to  by  the  vessel  in  the 
harbor,  and  by  the  fort. 

Muscat  is  a small  city,  containing  about  10,000  in- 
habitants, situated  at  the  head  of  Muscat  Cove,  and 
is  surrounded  on  all  sides  but  that  bordering  on  the 
bay,  by  massive,  craggy  rocks,  which  rise  from  800  to 
1000  feet  above  the  town.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
and  the  buildings  do  not  exhibit  much  taste  in  their 
arrangement  or  ornament.  The  people  are  very  clean- 
ly in  their  persons  and  dress ; the  merchants  are  gen- 
tlemen of  highly  cultivated  manners,  and  many  of 
them  were  excellent  scholars.  The  art  of  penman- 
ship seemed  to  have  received  an  unusual  degree  of  at- 
tention ; some  of  them  wrote  the  most  beautiful  hand 
that  I ever  saw. 

On  the  day  following  the  wedding,  the  Sultan  and 
his  son,  together  with  Capt.  California  and  some  of 
the  principal  men  of  the  realm,  came  on  board  and 
honored  us  with  a visit.  He  is  a tall,  spare  man,  ap- 
parently about  60  years  of  age.  His  dress  was  in 
accordance  with  Arabian  customs.  He  appeared  in  a 
loose  flowing  gown,  of  black  silk,  with  pantaloons  of 
white  linen,  cut  after  the  Turkish  style,  a vest  of  yel- 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


281 


low  satin;  he  wore  also  tasty  sandals  of  superior 
workmanship,  wrought  with  gold  wire,  and  a neat 
turban  upon  his  head,  in  imitation  of  the  Turks.  He 
addressed  the  officers  with  much  politeness,  though 
not  the  kind  ordinarily  taught  in  the  northern  semi- 
nary, where  this  branch  is  learned  like  arithmetic, 
geography  or  the  languages,  but  it  was  the  graceful 
politeness  of  simple  nature,  every  movement  and  ex- 
pression carrying  with  it  the  conviction  that  he  felt 
all  the  friendship,  kindness  and  benevolence  that  he 
expressed  verbally.  As  he  came  on  board  we  gave 
him  a salute,  while  the  Arabian  colors  were  waving 
above  him.  He  visited  the  various  parts  of  the  ship, 
examined  all  matters  of  interest,  and  afterward  par- 
took of  refreshment  in  the  cabin,  prepared  for  the  oc- 
casion. When  he  took  leave  of  us,  we  gave  an  honor- 
ary salute,  which  was  seconded  by  the  frigates  and 
forts. 

On  the  next  day  we  made  preparations  to  sail. 
Notwithstanding  the  shattered  state  of  the  ship,  the 
commander  ventured  an  attempt  to  cross  the  sea  of 
Arabia;  accordingly  on  the  9th,  we  unmoored,  and 
made  ready  for  sea,  after  having  concluded  a com- 
mercial treaty  with  the  Arabian  government.  The 
treaty  secures  a free  trade  between  the  two  govern- 
ments, for  the  term  of  one  hundred  years ; this  act 
promises  much  to  the  Arabian  government,  and  may 
be  the  means  of  restoring  them  to  the  high  and  im- 
portant position  which  they  once  sustained  in  relation 
to  the  neighboring  nations  of  Asia  and  Africa.  By  a 
consistent  course  of  political  economy,  they  may  yet 
regain  their  former  strength  and  military  prowess,  as 
24* 


282 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


well  as  their  previous  attainments  in  science  and  the 
arts. 

Our  next  place  of  destination  was  Bombay,  in  Hin- 
dostan.  One  morning  during  our  passage,  about  mid- 
way between  the  two  ports,  probably  500  miles  from 
the  nearest  point  of  land,  a large  flock  of  land  birds 
visited  the  ship,  such  as  owls,  sparrows,  black-birds 
&c. ; they  had  been  blown  to  sea,  probably,  by  some 
severe  gale  of  wind,  and  in  their  fatigue,  were  induced 
to  alight  wherever  they  could  find  a resting  place. 
They  perched  themselves  upon  the  rigging  and  va- 
rious parts  of  the  ship,  and  were  exceedingly  tame ; 
they  descended  among  the  “messes,”  and  it  was  with 
some  difficulty  that  they  were  kept  out  of  the  dishes. 
They  suffered  themselves  to  be  handled,  would  share 
our  “mess”  with  us,  and  expressed  their  gratitude 
by  singing  happy  strains,  while  seated  on  our  hands, 
head,  or  shoulders.  Some  of  them  prolonged  their 
stay  with  us  for  two  or  three  days  and  then  left,  prob- 
ably to  perish  at  sea. 

This  occurrence  developed  some  of  the  nobler  char- 
acteristics of  the  sailor.  Though  he  has  a rough  ex- 
terior, he  has  a heart  keenly  alive  to  the  sufferings  of 
his  fellows,  and  even  of  the  brute  creation.  Not  a 
bird  was  injured,  but  were  treated  with  great  tender- 
ness, and  might  have  remained  any  length  of  time,  a 
welcome  guest,  and  shared  his  simple  fare. 

The  ^commodore’s  cat,  however,  was  not  quite  as 
kind,  but  caught  one  of  the  number.  She  was  not 
permitted,  by  the  more  humane  seamen,  to  retain  her 
ill-gotten  prey,  but  was  robbed  of  it  as  soon  as  she 
could  be  secured.  In  the  genuine  spirit  of  tenderness 
and  sincerity,  a weight  was  attached  to  the  victim 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


283 


and  he  was  sunk  deep  in  the  sailor’s  grave,  where  so 
many  lie  entombed,  whose  bosoms  were  once  warmed 
by  the  same  overflowing  sympathy  that  dictated  this 
simple  act  of  respect  to  a mere  bird. 

Not  so  with  the  cat.  Severe  but  suppressed  mur- 
murings  were  heard  at  the  time,  but  no  violence  was 
offered.  On  the  next  morning  diligent  search  was 
made  for  poor  “ tabitha,”  but  it  was  in  vain.  It  was 
conjectured  that  she  had  followed  the  murdered  song- 
ster, though  not  with  the  same  ceremony  and  respect 
that  attended  the  former  burial.  The  circumstance 
may  seem  trivial  to  the  reader,  but  it  is  introduced  to 
illustrate  this  important  principle. 

We  arrived  at  Bombay  after  a delightful  passage 
of  twenty-one  days,  where  we  found  our  consort,  the 
Enterprise.  Our  ship  was  immediately  taken  into 
the  dry-dock,  there  to  undergo  thorough  repairs. 

Bombay  is  the  western  capital  of  British  India,  and 
contains  about  220,000  inhabitants.  The  city  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  is  surrounded  by  three  deep 
ditches  and  the  same  number  of  strong,  high  walls, 
which  are  mounted  with  heavy  artillery.  There  are 
many  things  in  and  about  the  city  that  would  be  ex- 
ceedingly interesting  to  the  attentive  observer,  though 
he  might  not  select  it  as  a permanent  residence.  An 
extensive  plain  lies  in  the  rear  of  the  city,  which  is 
used  as  the  parade  ground  of  the  English  soldiery; 
beyond  this  is  a large  town  called  the  “ Suburbs.” 

Bombay  is  one  of  several  very  populous  cities  of 
Hindostan.  In  point  of  population,  it  ranks  next  to 
China,  and  has  been  the  theatre  of  many  important 
events  in  the  history  of  Asia.  It  has  long  been  celebra- 
ted for  its  civilzation,  and  the  richness  of  its  articles  of 


284 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


commerce.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  pro- 
duces an  abundance  of  sugar,  cotton,  indigo,  opium 
and  rice,  the  last  of  which  forms  the  principal  article 
of  diet.  In  color,  the  people  very  much  resemble  the 
Africans,  but  in  features  are  more  European  ; they  are 
courteous  and  quite  polished  in  their  manners,  and 
display  much  taste  in  their  works  of  art. 

Yet  with  all  of  their  comparative  intellectual  culture, 
they  are  still  accustomed  to  some  of  the  most  revolt- 
ing practices  of  paganism.  Even  the  burning  of  wid- 
ows on  the  pyre  of  her  husband,  was  practiced  until 
1830,  when  it  was  abolished  by  the  British  govern- 
ment. Nor  has  the  influence  of  resident  Europeans, 
now  numbering  about  50,000,  been  sufficient  to  radi- 
cally change  the  popular  feeling  in  reference  to  their 
cruel  customs.  The  most  revolting  one  now  remain- 
ing, probably,  is  the  self-torture  consequent  upon  “ los- 
ing caste.”  They  are  divided  into  four  castes  or 
classes  ; these  castes  have  certain  rules  by  which  they 
are  respectively  governed,  and  are  not  allowed  to  min- 
gle with  those  of  another  class.  As  a penalty  for  the 
violation  of  any  of  these  rules,  the  offender  is  spurned 
from  society  as  unworthy  of  existence  among  his  for- 
mer associates.  These  outcasts  are  called  Pariahs , 
and  can  be  restored  to  the  caste  only  by  the  most  ex- 
cruciating self-infliction. 

While  here  I was  shown  one  of  these  wretched  vic- 
tims of  their  degrading  superstition.  This  individual 
is  known  to  travelers  as  the  “ flower-pot-man,”  and 
is  suffering  the  penalty  of  his  disloyalty  to  his  caste. 

I found  him  in  an  old  hovel,  situated  at  the  termina- 
tion of  a spacious  arch  which  leads  from  the  street  to  the 
rear ; he  was  seated  on  a rude  bench.  His  hair  was 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


285 


white  as  snow,  hanging  around  his  cheeks  and  neck 
in  long  matted  locks;  his  beard,  which  was  twelve 
inches  or  more  in  length,  was  made  to  turn  upward 
and  adhere  to  his  face,  by  white  clay.  His  cheeks 
were  hollow,  his  cheek  hone  remarkably  prominent, 
and  his  eyes  deeply  sunken  in  their  sockets ; his  dress 
consisted  of  a pair  of  tattered  thin  pants,  that  came 
down  a little  below  his  knees,  and  a thin,  dirty  man- 
tle thrown  over  his  shoulders  and  partly  wrapped 
around  his  body.  In  his  hand  he  held  a flower-pot. 

He  had  violated  the  principles  of  his  religion,  or  in 
some  way  displeased  the  priest,  and  had  presented 
himself  before  him  for  restoration,  after  having  suf- 
fered the  penalty  which  the  priest  might  choose  to 
impose.  After  mature  deliberation  it  was  decided 
that  the  term  of  twenty-one  years  might  be  sufficient 
time  to  expiate  his  crimes.  Some  terms  have  been 
considerably  longer  than  this,  depending  upon  the 
turpitude  of  the  crime.  He  had  already  served  fifteen 
years  of  his  penance.  The  flesh  of  the'  arm  had  grad- 
ually perished,  until  but  little  remained  save  bone  and 
withered  muscle.  His  nails  had  grown  to  the  length 
of  a foot  or  more,  and  had  assumed  an  ill-formed,  spi- 
ral shape.  It  also  sometimes  occurs  that  the  fleshy 
parts  of  the  fingers  become  elongated,  giving  to  the 
hand  a very  unnatural  and  revolting  appearance. 

The  pot  was  made  of  willow,  weighing  about  a 
pound  and  a half,  and  contained’  three  kinds  of  sacred 
flowers, — the  “rose,”  two  or  three  small  stalks  of  the 
“ marigold,”  and  a tuft  of  11  ladies’  delight.”  I re- 
quested our  guide  to  ask  him  how  he  had  contrived  to 
sleep,  and  whether  he  had  never  let  it  fall.  He  in- 
formed me  that  at  first  he  was  obliged  to  employ 


286 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


boys,  provided  with  long  reeds,  loaded  with  pointed 
metalic  substances,  to  goad  him  whenever  he  slept  so 
soundly  as  to  suffer  his  arm  to  be  depressed.  After  a 
short  time,  he  was  able  to  sleep  and  still  retain  the 
position  of  his  arm.  During  the  first  two  or  three 
years,  he  felt  much  pain  in  that  arm  and  side,  which 
gradually  diminished,  resolving  itself  into  the  sensa- 
tion which  would  naturally  be  produced  by  piercing 
those  parts  with  needles;  this  slowly  disappeared, 
and  for  some  years  he  had  been  entirely  destitute  of 
pain,  and  even  of  sensation.  It  had  been  for  some 
time  immovably  fixed  in  one  position.  These  devo- 
tees are  objects  of  charity,  and  not  unfrequently 
amass  considerable  fortunes. 

To  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  Hindoos, 
this  may  seem  too  horrid  to  merit  credence,  but  I can 
assure  such,  that  this  is  a mere  trifle,  when  compared 
with  some  of  their  schemes  of  torture.  We  know  but 
little  of  the  sacrifice  and  devotion  of  heathenism  and 
false  religion.  ‘The  Christian  might  well  emulate  their 
adherence  to  their  dogmas,  and  the  cheerfulness  with 
which  they  voluntarily  endure  the  most  excruciating 
tortures,  for  the  vain  purpose  of  appeasing  the  wrath 
of  dumb  idols. 

When  we  remember  that  millions  of  our  fellow  men 
are  suffering  thousands  of  tortures,  simply  from  a 
want  of  a knowledge  of  divine  things ; that  they,  by 
nature, -are  on  an  equality  with  those  of  the  most  fa- 
vored climes;  when  we  reflect  also,  that  we  owe  all 
our  superiority  to  the  Bible,  how  vaguely  do  we  esti- 
mate its  value,  and  how  little  do  we  think  of  one  of 
its  plainest  injunctions,  which  says, — “Go  ye  into  all 
the  world  and  preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature ! ” 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


2S7 


In  the  harbor  of  Bombay  there  is  a remarkable  isl- 
and, called  “ Elephanti.”  which  is  regarded  as  one  of 
the  11  seven  wonders  of  the  world ; ” it  contains  a cave 
which  seems  to  have  been  cut  out  of  solid  stone.  As 
one  enters  the  cave,  directly  in  front  of  the  opening  is 
the  exact  figure  of  an  elephant  of  the  usual  size;  there 
are,  also,  several  other  animals,  together  with  human 
beings,  all  of  which  are  cut  from  solid  rock.  Some  of 
these  were  intended  to  represent  kings  and  queens, — 
all  beautifully  sculptured,  but  have  a very  ancient  ap- 
pearance. We  broke  off  some  small  pieces,  such  as 
hands,  feet,  &c.,  from  the  more  remote  parts  of  the 
cave,  for  preservation.  At  what  period  these  were 
wrought  or  by  whom,  must  ever  remain  a matter  of 
speculation. 

After  a stay  of  some  weeks  at  Bombay, — which 
time  was  spent  in  making  necessary  repairs, — we 
made  preparations  to  sail ; other  guns  had  been  sub- 
stituted for  those  lost  on  the  coast  of  Arabia,  by  a loan 
from  the  English  Admiral,  Sir  Charles  Macomber, 
and  we  were  about  in  readiness  to  buffet  the  dangers 
of  the  raging  ocean,  or  meet  again  a more  ruthless  foe. 
While  on  the  eve  of  our  departure,  we  discovered  a 
vessel  in  the  offing,  coming  into  port ; as  she  approach- 
ed, we  saw  Arabian  colors  flying,  and  did  not  sail 
until  after  her  arrival.  In  a short  time  a boat  was 
sent  along  side,  in  which  we  recognized  some  of  our 
Arabian  friends,  with  whom  we  had  formed  so  agree- 
able an  acquaintance  at  Muscat.  From  them  we 
learned  that  the  Sultan  had  sent  out  a party  of  men, 
immediately  after  our  departure,  in  search  of  the  guns, 
anchors,  cables,  &c.,  which  were  sunk  at  the  place  of 
disaster.  They  had  succeeded  in  grappling  them  and 


288 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


the  vessel  was  chartered  to  restore  them  to  us.  Our 
borrowed  ones  were  soon  dismounted,  and  those  that 
had  been  our  companions  in  trouble,  and  had  lain  in 
a deep  coral  bed  where  unknown  treasures  have  long 
been  entombed,  were  placed  in  their  former  stations, 
where  they  soon  gave  but  little  evidence  of  having 
been  so  long  imbedded  beneath  the  wave.  My  feeble 
pen  can  not  do  justice  to  this  noble-minded  Sultan,  in 
consideration  of  his  generosity  toward  us  while  in 
distress.  We  could  but  mark  the  contrast  between 
our  treatment  while  on  the  reef,  by  the  wanderers  of 
the  desert,  and  that  of  the  Sultan  at  Muscat. 

After  leaving  Bombay,  we  sailed  down  the  eastern 
coast  of  Hindostan,  bound  to  Ceylon,  thence  through 
the  East  Indies.  This  part  of  our  cruise  was  not  as 
eventful  as  the  preceding  had  been,  but  not  without 
interest.  Nor  indeed  can  it  be,  to  the  attentive  ob- 
server of  creation’s  wonders,  who  can  appreciate  the 
wildly-grand,  the  magnificent  and  sublime.  The 
ocean  presents  these  in  their  ever-varying  forms. 
The  wild  grows  wilder,  the  sublime  becomes  awful, 
the  terrific  quickly  changes  to  more  terrible  and  over- 
whelming, as  nature  puts  on  her  wilder  aspects,  or  is 
quietly  lulled  to  rest,  the  beautiful  softening  in  the 
lovely,  as  the  tempests  cease  their  rude  blasts,  and 
threatening  clouds  disappear.  The  monsters  of  the 
deep  are  ever  around,  raising  their  huge  sides  above 
the  restless  surface,  regardless  of  these  innovators  of 
their  vast  domain. 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


289 


SAILOR  INFLUENCE. 


Among  seamen,  as  in  all  classes  of  society,  may.be 
found  a diversity  of  circumstances  and  characters. 
While  all  possess  some  of  the  more  striking  charac- 
teristics, the  effects  produced  upon  the  inhabitants  of 
the  uncivilized  parts  of  the  world  are  widely  dissim- 
ilar. The  gloom  of  heathenism  may  be  made  more 
visible  and  appalling  by  vicious  seamen  who  are  min- 
gling with  them  as  representatives  of  civilization,  or  a 
gleam  of  light  and  hope  may  be  radiated  by  the  more 
virtuous.  The  natives  may  be  exasperated  and  prej- 
udiced more  and  more  against  all  innovators,  or  the 
barriers  may  be  removed  and  the  influences  of  Chris- 
tianity be  disseminated,  by  an  association  and  inter- 
course with  our  less  favored  fellow  men.  The  two 
classes  are  already  in  the  field,  whose  influences  are, 
and  must  be,  antagonistic.  The  elevation  of  seamen 
is  among  the  cardinal  means  of  pouring  light  into  the 
dark  portions  of  the  earth. 

This  may  be  more  distinctly  seen  in  intercourse 
with  the  natives  of  the  Lagoon  Islands.  They  had 
been  visited  by  French  whalemen,  who  had  abused 
their  confidence,  and  trampled  upon  their  rights. 
Natural  results  followed ; they  were  incensed  against 
all  foreigners,  and  had  leagued  themselves  to  murder 
such  as  should  visit  them. 

While  engaged  in  the  Expedition  we  had  occasion 
to  visit  these  islands,  and  necessarily  encountered 
these  difficulties.  When  we  arrived  off  these  isles,  the 
different  vessels  were  stationed  at  given  points,  and 
25 


290 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


commenced  measuring  base  lines  by  means  of  guns 
fired  from  each  station  in  succession,  noting  the  time 
between  the  flash  and  report.  The  natives,  hearing 
our  guns,  came  down  to  the  beach  and  watched  our 
movements  with  apparent  interest  and  concern.  Hav- 
ing finished  our  admeasurements,  obtained  the  neces- 
sary angles  by  the  sextant,  the  boats  were  lowered 
and  we  attempted  to  land  ; the  natives,  however,  for- 
bade this,  and  by  signs  indicated  their  desire  for  our 
departure.  We  continued  to  approach  slowly,  at  the 
same  time  throwing  presents  to  them ; these  were 
thrown  back  to  us,  refusing  to  receive  any  thing  from 
us.  Some  of  them  threw  stones  into  the  water,  very 
much  bespattering  us,  which  we  thought  proper  to 
bear  patiently.  The  fact  that  we  did  not  retaliate, 
seemed  to  convince  them  that  we  were  intimidated, 
and  they  commenced  throwing  stones  into  our  boats, 
mistaking  our  forbearance  for  fear.  One  of  our  num- 
ber, who  was  injured  by  one  of  these  stones,  raised  a 
musket  and  discharged  a quantity  of  mustard-seed 
shot  among  them ; the  distance  was  so  great  that  it 
simply  produced  a smarting  sensation,  without  pene- 
trating the  surface.  No  sooner  was  the  musket  dis- 
charged than  the  whole  party  began  jumping  in  the 
most  ludicrous  manner,  talking,  picking  and  rubbing 
themselves,  as  if  they  had  been  suddenly  attacked 
with  some  annoying  cutaneous  disease.  They  moved 
off  in  company  up  the  beach,  where  they  seated  them- 
selves and  indulged  in  an  unintelligible  jargon.  We 
were  soon  after  ordered  on  board,  as  we  did  not  choose 
to  land  unless  it  could  be  effected  peaceably.  It  was 
decided  to  visit  another  of  the  same  group  lying  near, 
which  we  did  on  our  return  to  the  ship.  Our  object 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


29J 


was  to  reconcile  them  to  us  if  possible.  While  we 
were  considering  our  adventure,  one  of  our  number 
volunteered  to  visit  the  natives  of  the  island  to  which 
we  were  destined,  singly,  and  negotiate  conditions  of 
peace,  as  he  was  acquainted  with  their  language,  hav- 
ing visited  the  island  on  former  occasions. 

These  islands  are  of  a coral  formation,  and  as  there 
are  many  matters  of  interest,  it  may  not  be  amiss, 
briefly,  to  advert  to  them.  Coral  is  the  production  of 
a very  minute  animalcule ; though  invisible  of  itself, 
its  constructure  is  of  astonishing  magnitude.  It  may 
give  the  reader  some  vague  idea  of  the  vastness  of  this 
little  creature’s  operations  to  say  that  we  sounded,  or 
attempted  to,  within  a few  yards  of  the  reef,  sinking 
the  lead  eleven  hundred  fathoms,  ( 6600  feet ) but  did 
not  find  bottom ; these  little  invisibles  had  reared  their 
fabric  to  this  surprising  height,  and  how  much  below 
that,  formed  the  foundation,  I am  unable  to  determine. 
This  stupendous  wall  is  about  one  half  a mile  in 
thickness,  is  built  in  a circular  form,  the  inside  resem- 
bling a huge  chimney ; this  has  a diameter  of  some 
eight  or  ten  miles,  while  others  are  somewhat  larger. 
The  land  describes  a circle,  which  forms  around  the 
inner  edge  of  the  wall  about  one  fourth  of  a mile,  on 
some  of  them,  but  much  less  on  the  major  part  of 
them.  At  first  you  land  on  the  coral  that  is  submerg- 
ed at  all  times  for  some  distance  in  from  the  outer 
edge ; then  succeeds  a part  of  the  reef  that  is  above 
the  surface  during  a portion  of  the  time;  afterward  a 
sand  beach,  then  shrubs,  trees,  bearing  various  tropi- 
cal fruits,  then  shrubs  again  as  one  approaches  the 
water’s  edge  of  the  lagoon  in  the  centre.  This  lagoon 
occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  space  contained  be- 


292 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


tween  the  visible  portion  of  the  coral  as  we  approach 
this  singularly  formed  island,  and  sends  up  its  waves 
towards  those  that  are  rolling  upon  the  beach  from 
the  surrounding  ocean.  By  this  process  substances 
have  been  thrown  up  by  opposite  forces,  forming  a 
perimeter  of  land,  so  that  the  island  is  surrounded  by 
water  externally  and  internally.  This  stupendous 
basin  contains  salt  water,  but  whether  in  direct  com- 
munication with  the  ocean,  can  not  be  ascertained. 
We  were  unable  to  find  a bottom,  though  we  sank 
our  lead  some  five  or  six  hundred  fathoms.  Near  the 
inner  shore  of  this  lagoon,  an  abundance  of  the  pearl 
oyster  is  found,  which  are  sought  for  the  beautiful 
pearls  taken  from  them. 

A rather  novel  incident  occurred  while  we  were  on 
this  island,  which  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  my 
design  in  delineating  characters.  As  the  man  ap- 
proached the  shore,  it  was  evident  that  the  natives 
did  not  wish  for  any  intercourse.  He  had  provided 
himself  with  a variety  of  articles  to  serve  as  presents, 
threw  himself  into  the  surge,  and  was  carried,  by  one 
of  the  rollers  which  are  continually  breaking  on  shore, 
safely  to  the  reef.  As  he  reached  the  reef,  he  was  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  natives,  who  began  to 
approach,  making  various  signs  by  holding  their 
hands  over  their  heads,  and  afterward  bringing  them 
behind  them.  He  attempted  to  communicate  with 
them,  but  was  not  understood,  and  retreated,  assuring 
us  that  they  were  hostile,  and  that  it  would  be  use- 
less to  attempt  to  make  peace  with  them.  I did  not 
like  the  idea  of  thus  relinquishing  our  plan,  and  im- 
mediately volunteered  to  make  an  effort  myself.  I 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


293 


took  a bag  of  old  iron  hoop  which  I had  broken  into 
pieces  of  some  two  or  three  inches  in  length,  knowing 
that  iron  was  of  much  value  here ; as  soon  as  I plung- 
ed into  the  water,  the  natives  commenced  throwing 
stones,  but  did  me  no  injury,  and  I was  soon  standing 
erect  upon  the  island.  I immediately  approached 
them ; they  seemed  satisfied  that  I was  not  afraid  of 
them,  and  began  to  repeat  their  signs.  I knew  not, 
nor  did  I much  care  what,  their  gestures  were  intend- 
ed for,  but  imitated  their  manoeuvres,  meaning  war 
or  peace,  as  they  might  choose  to  construe  it.  They 
gazed  at  me  a moment  and  then  brought  their  hands 
behind  them,  which  I followed,  at  the  same  time 
slowly  advancing  toward  them.  As  they  receded 
before  my  advance,  they  came  to  a natural  wall  of 
coral,  situated  about  one  fourth  of  a mile  from  the 
beach,  in  which  there  was  a small  opening.  This 
wall  extended  along  this  side  of  the  island,  and  in 
front  of  the  town,  and  was  about  three  and  a half  feet 
in  height.  At  this  place  they  seemed  inclined  to  en- 
ter into  a parley  with  me,  the  chief  placing  the  men, 
some  on  one,  and  some  on  the  other  side  of  the  pass, 
behind  the  wall ; some  were  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  stationed  in  the  front  of  the  opening,  while 
the  chief  posted  himself  at  the  pass. 

He  was  an  old  grey-bearded  man,  and  had  a very 
venerable  appearance;  he  held  his  spear  in  his  left 
hand,  while  the  right  was  presented  toward  the  iron 
which  I held  before  him ; he  seemed  disinclined  to 
change  his  position,  while  I advanced,  offering  him 
the  iron.  As  soon  as  his  finger  came  in  contact  with 
it  he  suddenly  withdrew  it,  as  if  severely  burned  by 
25* 


294 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


it.  At  length,  after  various  attempts,  he  ventured  to 
receive  it,  tasting,  smelling,  and  rubbing  it,  for  the 
purpose  of  judging  of  its  quality.  When  he  saw  that 
it  was  good  iron,  he  seemed  very  much  pleased,  and 
approaching  me,  he  placed  his  right  arm  around  my 
neck,  holding  his  spear  in  the  other.  Wishing  to  re- 
ciprocate his  affection,  I placed  my  left  arm  around 
his  neck ; he  commenced  drawing  me  toward  him  un- 
til our  faces  were  nearly  in  contact;  inferring  that  he 
was  about  to  kiss  me,  I prepared  for  such  an  event. 
Not  certainly  knowing  his  intentions,  I grasped  my 
sheath  knife,  knowing  that  if  his  embrace  should 
prove  too  cordial,  I could  easily  disengage  myself. 
He  then  brought  our  noses  in  contact,  rubbing  his 
three  times  across  mine.  After  releasing  me,  he 
danced  about  with  much  apparent  happiness.  But 
the  worst  was  not  over ; the  same  ceremony  was  to  be 
performed  with  the  entire  party,  who  were  generally 
besmeared  with  cocoa-nut  oil  and  charcoal,  and  I 
found  myself  thoroughly  bedaubed  by  their  filthy 
persons. 

I afterward  took  the  chief  by  the  hand  and  led  him 
down  toward  the  boat,  but  met  the  Commodore,  with 
all  of  the  men  save  two  left  in  each  boat,  who  were 
coming  up  to  ascertain  the  result  of  our  interview. 
Afterward  this  ceremony  was  repeated,  until  our  com- 
pany, from  the  Commodore  to  the  boys,  effected  a 
reconciliation  with  these  natives,  at  the  close  of  which 
we  were  nearly  as  black  as  the  natives  themselves. 
They  then  escorted  us  up  to  their  houses,  assisted  us 
in  collecting  all  the  specimens  in  natural  history  that 
could  be  found  on  the  island.  They  gave  us  fish  and 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


295 


every  thing  that  could  convince  us  of  their  friendship, 
and  requested  us  to  invite  other  white  men  to  visit 
them.  We  made  trifling  presents  to  the  whole  num- 
ber, completly  overcoming  their  prejudice  against  all 
white  men.  From  this  is  easily  seen  the  importance 
of  having  virtuous  sailors,  to  go  into  all  parts  of  the 
world  to  meet  and  counteract  the  pernicious  influ- 
ences of  too  large  a portion  of  our  2,000,000  of  sea- 
men, who  are  scattering  the  seeds  of  vice  and  licen- 
tiousness in  the  dark  portions  of  the  earth.  These 
effects,  to  be  fully  appreciated,  must  be  witnessed; 
the  intoxicated  sailor  should  be  traced  as  he  mingles 
with  the  benighted  pagan,  regardless  of  all  the  re- 
straints of  that  Christianity  under  which  he  has  been 
nurtured,  and  which,  to  the  mind  of  the  pagan,  he 
represents.  Such  sad  consequences  can  only  be  avert- 
ed by  counter  efforts  from  the  same  Omnipresent 
source;  that  as  Jesus,  the  Lamb  of  God,  assumed  the 
title  and  some  of  the  characteristics  of  the  lion  (“  the 
lion  of  the  tribe  of  Judah,”)  to  be  able  to  meet  the 
“ roaring  lion  that  goeth  about,  seeking  whom  he 
may  devour.”  so  the  sailor  of  Zion  must  meet  those 
in  the  service  of  Satan,  and  establish  the  superiority 
of  the  kingdom  of  grace  over  that  of  the  prince  of 
darkness. 

Other  unfavorable  results,  affecting  seamen  and  the 
natives  of  other  climes,  are  produced  by  a custom 
which  prevails  far  too  extensively.  I refer  to  an  un- 
warranted sailing  on  the  Sabbath.  Perhaps  no  trans- 
gression of  equal  magnitude  is  committed  with  so  lit- 
tle remorse  of  conscience,  as  the  custom  of  sailing 
from  port  on  the  Sabbath.  The  excuses  which  are 


296 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


urged  to  hush  the  voice  of  conscience,  and  to  oppose 
such  as  present  scriptural  objections  to  this  course, 
are  wholly  selfish,  and  consequently  futile;  such 
practices  must  necessarily  be  a violation  of  the  plain- 
est requisitions  of  God,  and  must  entail  upon  the 
transgressor  the  penalties  threatened  against  such  dis- 
regard of  divine  requirements. 

By  the  way  of  illustration  of  natural  consequences, 
I insert  a brief  description  of  three  attempts  to  get  un- 
der way  during  a voyage  of  eight  months.  Some 
may  have  sailed  without  any  regard  to  these  obliga- 
tions, and  apparently  may  have  been  successful,  yet 
there  may  generally  have  been  a connection  between 
disasters  and  an  improper  time  of  sailing.  I record 
the  events  just  as  they  transpired,  and  leave  the 
reader  to  make  his  own  conclusions.  The  incidents 
to  which  I refer,  occurred  on  board  the  bark  South- 
erner of  Boston.  At  the  commencement  of  these  sin- 
gular providences,  we  were  lying  at  Lisbon. 

At  twelve  o’clock  on  Saturday  night,  we  were  call- 
ed to  get  under  way.  This  was  displeasing  to  myself 
and  to  many  on  board.  It  was  painful  to  us  to  com- 
mence the  holy  Sabbath  under  such  circumstances, 
and  we  could  but  feel  that  it  was  not  only  displeasing 
to  God,  but  that  nothing  was  really  gained  in  a tem- 
poral view.  A train  of  circumstances  followed  each 
other  in  quick  succession,  which  exemplified  the  fu- 
tility of^an  attempt  to  wholly  disregard  the  establish- 
ed laws  of  the  Creator. 

The  windlass  was  manned  and  we  began  to  heave 
up  our  anchor  just  as  the  Sabbath  commenced,  appa- 
rently to  devote  to  secular  purposes  every  moment  of 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


297 


a day  designed  for  more  sacred  employments  ; when 
it  was  within  about  six  fathoms  of  the  surface,  the 
chain  “ surged”  upon  the  windlass  and  sank  again 
to  the  botton  and  became  entangled  with  the  cable  of 
a Portuguese  brig,  lying  near  us.  With  the  greatest 
difficulty,  after  nearly  an  hour  of  incessant  effort,  we 
succeeded  in  getting  the  anchor  above  the  water,  and 
at  about  4 o’clock,  A.  M.,  we  had  it  in  its  proper  place, 
— having  labored  four  hours  with  all  our  strength  to 
perform  what  might  ordinarily  have  been  accomplish- 
ed in  thirty  minutes.  Having  “ hove  short,”  we  set 
the  top  sails  and  returned  to  the  windlass,  ready  to 
get  the  anchor,  but  scarcely  was  it  in  motion,  before 
the  chain  again  surged,  and  sixty  fathoms  of  cable 
ran  out  like  lightning.  At  10  o’clock  of  the  same 
day  we  got  under  way,  hut  the  wind  soon  died  away 
and  we  were  unable  to  proceed.  We  drifted  about 
five  miles,  when  we  again  anchored,  where  we  lay 
until  the  following  morning.  On  the  next  morning 
we  again  attempted  to  sail,  but  it  soon  commenced  to 
rain  rapidly,  while  the  deep-toned  thunder  was  heard 
above  and  around  us,  so  that  our  departure  was  con- 
siderably delayed.  During  the  forenoon  the  word 
“ up  anchor”  was  given,  but  before  the  order  could 
be  obeyed,  we  were  reminded  of  the  danger  which 
might  attend  it ; a dense  black  cloud  was  seen  rolling 
in  from  the  sea  with  a threatening  aspect ; we  were 
satisfied  that  it  would  be  madness  to  leave  our  moor- 
ings before  the  squall  should  have  passed,  and  imme- 
diately made  preparations  to  meet  its  fury.  I never 
before  saw  a storm  advance  in  such  awful  majesty ; 
the  forked  lightning  glared  in  startling  wildness  as  it 


298 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


leaped,  unshackled,  from  cloud  to  cloud,  now  sending 
a broad,  bold  sheet  of  livid  tire  across  the  blackening 
vault  of  heaven,  rendering  the  succeeding  blackness 
far  more  visible;  now  shooting  uproar  d,  as  cloud  over- 
hung cloud : and  now  dashing  franticly  to  the  earth, 
leaving  a pale,  quivering  light  behind,  to  mark  its  zig- 
zag course.  The  scene  was  awfully  grand  ; the  sub- 
lime was  deepened  into  the  terrible,  and  the  quickly 
succeeding  flashes  were  as  if  element  warred  with 
element,  and  contending  foemen  rushed  to  the  deadly 
conflict.  The  ship  shook  like  the  tempest-beaten  leaf, 
as  the  deafening  thunder  rolled  and  muttered  around 
us,  and  spoke  in  tones  that  could  not  easily  be  mis- 
understood. 

The  mate  was  standing  on  the  quarter  deck  as  the 
storm  approached,  leaning  upon  the  iron  railing,  when 
he  received  a violent  electric  shock,  which  left  his 
right  arm  strengthless.  The  storm  now  burst  upon 
us  in  all  its  fury,  and  the  waters  foamed  and  dashed 
on  every  side  of  us.  A shower  of  huge  hail  stones 
was  dashed  upon  the  deck  in  the  strength  of  the  tem- 
pest, while  the  ceaseless  howlings  of  the  wind  through 
the  shrouds  and  spars,  added  to  the  terrors  of  the 
scene.  We  rode  in  safety  through  this  tempest,  how- 
ever, without  any  very  serious  incidents. 

When  the  storm  was  over,  we  made  ready  to  set 
sail ; at  this  time  two  brigs,  whose  masters  could  not 
consent  to  sail  on  the  Sabbath,  now  came  down  from 
the  city,  and  passing  us,  went  out  without  any  diffi- 
culty. Just  as  we  had  nearly  reached  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tagus,  the  wind  left  us  and  the  flood 
tide  began  to  set  in,  and  our  only  alternative  was  to 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


299 


go  back  to  our  anchorage  in  the  harbor,  to  anchor 
until  the  wind  and  tide  should  again  favor  us.  We 
were  here  at  anchor  about  12  o’clock,  within  one  mile 
from  the  place  that  we  had  left  on  the  preceding 
morning.  We  once  more  weighed  anchor  with  Jhe 
utmost  difficulty,  while  no  one  could  account  for  such 
a series  of  disasters,  though  all  seemed  satisfied  that 
there  was  something  peculiarly  mysterious.  As  the 
anchor  arose  to  the  surface  it  was  ascertained  that 
it  had  become  attached  to  a broken  one,  which  had 
been  lost  or  abandoned  previously.  After  excessive 
toil,  we  succeeded  in  getting  all  things  in  readiness, 
and  at  sunset  we  sailed  out,  bound  to  sea. 

On  the  1st  of  November,  the  ship  came  to  an  an- 
chor at  the  quarantine  ground,  in  the  bay  of  Rio  Jan- 
eiro ; our  arrival  was  on  Saturday,  and  we  had  hoped 
that  the  incidents  at  Lisbon  might  prove  effectual ; 
that  the  lesson  there  learned,  might  prevent  our  cap- 
tain from  making  a second  attempt  to  violate  the 
sanctity  of  the  Sabbath.  Yet,  early  on  Sabbath 
morning,  as  on  the  former  occasion,  we  were  called 
from  our  slumbers,  to  get  under  way.  I could  but 
feel  surprised  and  grieved,  that  the  captain  would  be 
so  utterly  reckless  in  this  matter.  I at  that  time  re- 
marked to  the  crew,  that  in  my  opinion  God  would 
punish  him  for  his  impiety,  previous  to  the  expiration 
of  the  voyage.  We  got  under  way  without  the  least 
trouble  at  this  time,  and  ran  up  to  the  other  shipping. 
The  harbor  master  came  along  side  and  gave  us  di- 
rections where  to  anchor.  In  getting  to  our  anchor- 
age we  were  obliged  to  pass  between  several  other 
vessels.  While  passing  some  of  the  last,  the  captain 


300 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


was  giving  his  orders  with  an  air  of  much  self-confi- 
dence, apparently  cherishing  the  idea  that  he  was 
able  to  contend  successfully  with  his  God,  and  trample 
upon  his  laws  with  impunity.  He  seemed  very  much 
inclined  to  hazard  the  consequences,  but  a “ haughty 
spirit  goeth  before  a fall.”  While  he  was  exhibiting 
his  seamanship,  and  working  his  vessel  with  much 
skill  among  the  other  shipping,  the  end  of  our  main 
yard  came  in  contact  with  the  fore-top-gallant  stay  of 
the  beautiful  bark  Daniel  Webster,  of  Boston,  carry- 
ing away  her  fore  and  main-top-gallant  masts,  beside 
doing  other  very  serious  damage.  This  misfortune 
was  somewhat  enhanced  by  the  circumstance  that  the 
injuries  could  be  repaired  in  this  place,  only  with 
much  difficulty. 

We  remained  here  for  some  few  weeks,  and  after 
completing  our  arrangements,  we  were  again  destined 
to  witness  the  exemplification  of  the  relations  of  trans- 
gression and  natural  results.  On  the  first  Sabbath  in 
December,  the  captain  made  his  third  attempt  to  des- 
ecrate the  day  by  leaving  port  unnecessarily.  Our 
work  was  accomplished  in  season  to  have  left  some 
time  previous.  A portion  of  the  preceding  day  was 
spent  in  scenes  of  amusements,  and  it  could  but  be 
inferred  that  this  day  was  deliberately  selected,  but 
for  what  purpose  I leave  the  reader  to  form  his  own 
opinions.  The  order  was  given  to  get  under  way, 
but  this  was  instantly  prevented  by  a most  singular 
circumstance;  no  sooner  was  the  order  given  to  “man 
the  windlass,”  than  the  captain  was  suddenly  sur- 
prised by  a violent  attack,  the  cause  of  which  could 
not  be  satisfactorily  accounted  for.  A boat  was  sent 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


301 


to  the  shore  with  all  despatch,  to  obtain  a physician. 
On  his  arrival,  he  was  unable  to  divine  this  attack, 
or,  indeed,  to  decide  in  regard  to  its  nature.  Its  se- 
verity, however,  did  not  long  continue,  yet  before  we 
were  able  to  leave,  a strong  easterly  wind  commenced1 
blowing,  which  afterward  prevented  our  departure.. 
In  consequence  of  this,  we  were  detained  here  until 
the  12th  of  the  month,  anxiously  waiting  for  an  op- 
portunity to  escape  from  a place  which  seemed  almost 
identified  with  disaster. 

After  the  change  of  the  wind,  we  made  ready  to 
leave  the  harbor.  . This  occasion  was  fraught  with 
incidents  of  a most  thrilling  nature.  Judgment  and 
mercy  were  most  singularly  blended,  and  while  we 
were  filled  with  awe  and  almost  overwhelmed  with 
our  peculiarly  hazardous  situation,  we  could  but  rec- 
ognize the  merciful  hand  of  Him  who  “ commandeth 
and  raiseth  the  stormy  winds,  and  lifteth  up  the  waves 
thereof ; — who  maketh  the  storm  a calm,  so  that  the 
waves  thereof  are  still.”  Having  waited  for  a con- 
siderable time  for  the  officer  to  bring  the  countersign, 
without  which  no  ship  could  pass  Santa  Cruz,  the 
captain  decided  to  go  on  shore  in  quest  of  him,  as  he 
was  anxious  to  improve  the  ebb  tide  and  land  breeze, 
which  blows  in  this  place  during  only  four  hours  in 
the  morning.  After  our  arrival  at  Fort  Glorio,  we 
ascertained  that  the  officer  had  gone  among  the  ship- 
ping, and  it  was  not  until  we  had  followed  him  from 
ship  to  ship,  that  we  at  last  met  him  along  side  of  our 
own  vessel.  He  arrived  about  7 o’clock,  A.  M.,  after 
which  we  weighed  our  anchor  preparatory  to  the  wel- 
come departure.  Before  we  had  made  any  considera- 
26 


302 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


ble  progress  the  wind  died  away,  and  we  drifted  for 
about  one  half  mile  in  this  fine  harbor.  As  we  passed 
along,  we  saw  that  we  were  in  danger  of  coming  in 
contact  with  a brig  which  was  anchored  near  us. 
Our  only  means  of  avoiding  this  collision  was  to  an- 
chor again,  as  the  ship  was  now  wholly  unmanagea- 
ble. At  this  time  the  Josephine,  of  New  York,  swept 
swiftly  by,  borne  along  by  the  current,  and  was 
carried  by  several  vessels,  toward  the  Sugar-Loaf,  a 
huge  rock  that  stands  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  on 
the  southern  shore.  As  she  passed  along,  a favoring 
wind  gradually  sprang  up,  while  she  and  several 
other  vessels  which  had  remained  with  us  windbound, 
passed  out  of  the  harbor  with  a fine  breeze,  leaving 
us  behind. 

About  10  o’clock,  we  again  weighed  anchor  and 
made  an  attempt  to  follow  them.  At  the  place  where 
we  lay  there  was  not  sufficient  wind  to  fill  the  sails, 
in  consequence  of  high  eminences  which  intercepted 
the  land-breeze  which  was  then  blowing  briskly  with- 
in one-fourth  of  a mile  of  us.  A boat,  well  manned, 
had  already  been  ordered  out  to  tow  us  along,  but 
they  were  not  able  to  counteract  the  strength  of  the 
current;  we  were  carried  along  rapidly,  notwithstand- 
ing all  efforts  to  give  the  ship  a different  direction. 
We  were  fearfully  nearing  a group  of  rocks,  upon 
which  the  Brazilians  had  erected  a strong  fortifica- 
tion, known  as  “ Square  Fort,”  from  the  peculiarity 
of  its  form.  The  Sugar-Loaf  was  towering  high 
above  the  clouds,  and  from  the  peculiarity  of  our  po- 
sition, it  was  impossible  to  have  a current  of  wind 
which  could  serve  us  at  this  important  juncture. 


O-F  SAILOR  LIFE. 


303 


There  were,  indeed,  occasional  gusts,  sweeping  down 
the  sides  of  the  mountain,  fitful  in  their  occurrence 
and  irregular  in  their  direction,  while  the  current, 
which  was  rushing  with  much  force  between  the 
rock  and  land,  was  rapidly  sweeping  us  on  toward 
the  rocks.  The  officers  and  men  were  whirling'  the 
yards  to  catch  every  breath  of  air  that  might  occa- 
sionally favor  us  in  our  critical  position.  Yet,  with 
all  the  efforts  of  those  on  board,  together  with  the 
most  vigorous  efforts  of  the  oarsmen,  we  were  still 
drifting  on  to  apparent  destruction.  The  boat  was 
now  ordered  along  side,  and  we  anchored  as  soon  as 
possible,  but  here  again  we  failed ; the  ship  continued 
to  drag  her  anchor  among  the  rocks,  while  the  cable 
was  “ veered  away,”  as  long  as  a fathom  remained. 
She  at  last  swung  around  to  the  anchor,  and  her  stem 
was  not  twenty-five  feet  from  the  rocks ! At  this 
time,  very  fortunately  for  us,  and  as  it  might  seem, 
providentially,  the  steamer  Brazil ia  was  passing  us, 
on  her  return  from  Montevideo ; the  captain  took  his 
trumpet  and  hailed  her,  requesting  her  commander  to 
come  to  our  rescue,  but  with  an  utter  disregard  of  our 
perilous  situation — unlike  the  majority  of  command- 
ers— he  refused,  and  directed  us  to  a government  boat 
that  had  just  passed  us.  That  boat,  however,  had 
already  seen  our  distress,  and  had  put  about  for  the 
purpose  of  coming  to  our  relief.  The  officers  at  the 
fort  were  anxiously  watching  us,  and  when  they  saw 
the  Brazilia  passing  by  without  rendering  necessary 
assistance,  the  stern  voice  of  the  commander  thunder- 
ed through  a huge  trumpet,  repeating  the  request  of 
Capt.  Hallet,  but  this  was  also  disregarded.  We 


304 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


were  still  drifting  fearfully  along  toward  these  shelv- 
ing, craggy  rocks,  and  a heavy  sea  was  rolling  in  with 
tremendous  force,  while  that  loud,  monotonous  and 
dismal  roar  with  which  every  sailor  is  acquainted, 
who  has  been  where  the  surf  breaks  on  an  iron-bound 
shore,  and  which  has  been  the  sad  requiem  of  many  a 
sailor,  was  deepening  the  gloom  and  anxiety  which 
our  situation  naturally  produced.  As  the  sea  retired, 
we  could  distinctly  see  the  sharp,  ragged  shelf  of 
rocks,  projecting  from  the  main  body  of  the  ledge, 
against  which  the  sea  was  dashing  and  foaming  furi- 
ously, sending  up  a thick,  humid  spray,  and  against 
which,  in  all  human  probability,  we  were  to  be  dashed. 

The  officers  and  soldiers  of  the  fort  had  seen  the 
crash  of  many  a noble  vessel  in  the  same  spot ; had 
seen  plank  part  from  plank,  massive  cordage  rent 
asunder  like  the  frail  spider’s  web ; the  ship  disman- 
tled, crushed  as  a thing  of  naught,  and  perchance,  the 
last  struggles  of  ill-fated  crews,  as  they  contended 
against  the  might  of  overwhelming  waves.  As  they 
saw  the  noble  ship  floating  on  to  inevitable  destruc- 
tion, they  seemed  to  appreciate  our  feelings  and  sym- 
pathize with  us  while  in  our  distress. 

No  sooner  did  the  commander  see  his  orders  disre- 
garded, than  he  stepped  from  the  embrasure  and  a 
stream  of  smoke  and  flame  burst  from  a piece  of 
heavy  artillery,  while  the  deep-toned  thunderings 
came  booming  over  the  waters,  a signal  that  could 
not  be  misinterpreted.  It  had  a magical  effect  upon 
the  seamen  ; the  wheels  stopped  instantly,  and  she 
returned  to  us  with  all  possible  speed.  Another  mo- 
ment, and  the  standard  of  Brazil  fell  “ a’  half  mast,” 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


305 


another  gun  thundered  from  the  port,  and  the  news 
of  a ship  in  distress  flew  with  that  sound  in  every 
part  of  the  harbor.  Fort  Gloria,  a fortification  that 
stands  on  the  same  side  with  the  city,  passed  the  sig- 
nal by  the  discharge  of  artillery,  and,  “ half  masted” 
her  colors,  while  fort  Santa  Cruz  hurried  along  the 
mandate  by  a similar  course.  This  was  the  work  of 
a moment,  but  in  that  time  the  ship  had  approached  so 
near  the  rock  that  she  could  swing  to  the  current  no 
more.  I felt  that  it  was  a time  that  the  sailor  must 
act  the  man.  We  had  done  all  that  we  could  do, 
and  much  alarm  was  manifested  on  board.  The 
mate  was  very  much  excited  and  called  to  the  cap- 
tain to  observe  the  rapid  progress  which  he  supposed 
the  ship  was  making  toward  the  rocks.  I saw  the 
tendency  of  such  remarks  to  disconcert  the  entire 
crew,  and  remonstrated  with  him,  assuring  him  that 
in  my  opinion  he  was  mistaken  in  reference  to  our 
progress,  and  spoke  encouragingly  of  our  rescue. 
By  this  time  a boat  from  the  steamer  was  under  our 
bows,  and  I passed  a hawser  into  it ; she  hurried  back 
to  the  boat,  and  in  one  half  minute  the  steamer  was 
under,  way.  At  the  same  moment,  a boat  filled  with 
men  from  the  government  boat,  came  along  side,  and 
assisted  in  manning  the  windlass,  and  if  ever  I sang 
u yeo  heave  ho  ” at  the  top  of  my  voice,  it  was  at  this 
moment.  The  steamer  soon  drew  the  hawser  taught, 
and  our  ship,  which  had  been  acquiring  such  a fear- 
ful proximity  to  that  disastrous  spot,  was  moving 
slowly  away,  and  in  fifteen  minutes  we  were  riding 
safely  at  anchor,  one  mile  from  the  scene  of  danger. 
The  colors  were  brought  again  to  the  mast  head,  an- 
26* 


306 


lights  and  shadows 


nouncing  to  thousands  of  anxious  spectators,  that  the 
ship  was  safe.  The  sullen  roar  of  the  surf  had  died 
gradually  away,  and  we  were  now  permitted  to  in- 
dulge in  gratitude  for  our  almost  miraculous  deliver- 
ance. 

At  the  time  that  the  boat  took  us  in  tow,  we  were 
only  about  ten  feet  from  the  rock,  and  the  mighty 
swelling  of  the  waves  was  lifting  us  some  six  or 
eight  feet,  and  had  we  struck  a projection,  we  must 
have  been  dashed  in  pieces,  and  sunk  to  that  deep 
bed  where  so  many  had  been  plunged  in  the  hour  of 
extremity.  The  ship  was  loaded  very  deep,  and  but 
a few  moments  could  have  elapsed  after  the  first  con- 
cussion, before  she  would  have  sunk,  and  the  circling 
waves  of  the  accompanying  vortex  would  have  closed 
sadly  over  us,  and  another  crew  would  have  been 
carried  by  the  strength  of  the  current  among  those 
fearful  rocks,  which  are  as  a mighty  monument  of  the 
multitude  who  sleep  beneath  those  troubled  waters. 

We  lay  at  anchor  until  the  next  morning,  at  which 
time  we  succeeded  in  getting  out,  after  an  unnecessary 
detention  of  about  two  weeks,  and  a wonderful  escape 
from  a watery  grave. 

I am  not  disposed  to  indulge  in  any  thing  like  su- 
perstition in  reference  to  ‘this  eventful  voyage,  but 
simply  give  the  facts  as  they  occurred.  I know  that 
it  is  often  affirmed  that  seamen  are  inclined  to  a senti- 
ment of  marvelousness,  which  predisposes  them  to  a 
firm  belief  in  supernatural  agencies.  I will  admit  that 
this  may  be  true  to  some  extent  ; probably  the  nature 
of  the  profession  may  tend  to  the  production  of  such 
a peculiarity.  These,  above  all  other  men,  “ see  God’s 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


307 


wonders  in  the  deep,”  and  are  naturally  more  impress- 
ed with  his  more  immediate  agency  in  the  affairs  of 
men.  Disclaiming  all  “ heathen  notions,”  I can  but 
adopt  the  language  of  a commander  on  a similar  oc- 
casion after  the  wreck  of  his  vessel,  and  “believe 
that  there  was  a connection  between  the  result,  and 
sailing  on  the  Sabbath.”  He  who  has  said  “ Remem- 
ber the  Sabbath  day  to  keep  it  holy”  and  affixed  pen- 
alties to  all  transgression,  will  not  be  unmindful  of 
such  flagrant  disregard  of  his  righteous  requirements. 
He  who  commanded  the  Israelite  to  be  put  to  death, 
who  had  offended  his  Maker  by  “ picking  sticks  on 
the  Sabbath  day;”  he  who  followed  the  offending 
Egyptians  and  engulfed  them  in  the  Red  Sea,  of 
whom  it  was  said,  “he  hath  triumphed  gloriously; 
the  horse  and  his  rider  hath  he  thrown  into  the  sea,” 
will  not  now  “let  the  wicked  go  unpunished,”  though 
thousands  of  years  may  have  passed  away  since  the 
command  was  issued,  and  the  summary  punishment 
was  inflicted. 

Again, — to  say  nothing  of  its  relations  to  the  great 
law  of  Eternal  justice, — it  has  other  important  bear- 
ings, to  which  I will  briefly  advert.  From  the  es- 
tablished relation  of  things,  and  from  the  example  of 
nature’s  great  Architect,  there  is  ample  evidence  that 
periodic  rest  is  designed  for  “ man  and  beast.”  In- 
deed, were  inspiration  silent  upon  this  point,  we 
might  learn  from  our  own  constitutions,  that  such  an 
arrangement  is  absolutely  necessary.  This  privilege, 
landsmen  claim,  not  as  a moral  right  alone,  but  as  a 
natural  right.  Indeed,  all  experiments  which  have 
related  only  to  secular  economy,  have  established  the 
propriety  of  the  divine  command. 


308 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


Seamen,  as  a class,  labor  a much  greater  proportion 
of  the  time  than  the  great  mass  of  men,  and  for  a 
compensation  widely  disproportioned  to  the  amount 
of  labor  performed,  and  the  hazards  endured.  It  has 
been  justly  remarked  that  “ There  are  no  Sabbaths  or 
nights  on  the  ocean.”  The  sailor  has  no  time  in 
which  he  can  feel  perfectly  exempt  from  care  and  toil. 
This  often  follows  from  the  nature  of  his  employ- 
ment ; while  at  sea,  he  is  liable  at  any  moment  to  be 
called  to  the  post  of  duty,  though  exhausted  nature 
may  require  rest.  In  the  gale,  the  efforts  of  all  on 
board  are  requisite.  All  necessary  assistance,  under 
such  circumstances,  the  sailor  renders  cheerfully. 
The  safety  of  human  life,  and  the  faithful  discharge 
of  the  obligation  entrusted  to  him,  require  such  a sac- 
rifice at  his  hands. 

To  this  necessary  relation  of  things,  is  attributable, 
probably,  the  premature  death  of  a large  portion  of 
seamen.  A careful  investigation  of  facts  has  resulted 
in  the  conclusion,  that  in  no  branch  of  business  is 
there  so  great  a mortality  as  in  this, — not  even  in  the 
army.  Nor  is  this  referable  alone  to  losses  by  ship- 
wreck, when  hundreds  sink  into  one  common  grave. 
However  great  this  may  be,  it  forms  but  an  inconsid- 
erable item  in  the  great  result.  Excessive  and  long- 
continued  labor,  exposure  to  the  ever- varying  vicissi- 
tudes of  climate,  with  various  other  improprieties,  are 
the  active  agents  of  this  sad  destruction.  It  is  a 
pleasing  consideration  that  some  of  these  evils  are  re- 
moved by  the  genius  of  reform,  which  is  effecting  the 
more  prominent  enterprises  of  the  day.  It  can  not 
be  doubted  but  that  the  incipient  stages  of  malignant 


309 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 

disease  are  seen  in,  and  are  traceable  to  improperly  con- 
structed forecastles.  Many  of  them,  in  former  times 
— and  too  many  still  exist — were  dark,  damp  and 
confined,  in  which  poisonous  exhalations  could  escape 
only  with  much  difficulty,  but  remained  to  be  inhaled 
by  the  large  number  who  are  crowded  into  them,  un- 
til insinuating  diseases  are  immovably  fixed.  Were 
it  not  for  the  comparative  exemption  of  the  luxuries 
of  more  fashionable  life,  and  their  active  habits,  &c., 
probably  a far  greater  number  would  fall  early  vic- 
tims to  these  imprudences. 

While,  therefore,  there  are  so  many  active  agencies 
that  are  calculated  in  their  nature  to  make  sad  inroads 
into  the  constitution,  and  people  that  spacious  recep- 
tacle of  ocean’s  sons,  it  is  lamentable  that  men  should 
conspire  to  increase  unnecessarily  these  causes  of  un- 
timely dissolution,  by  wresting  unjustly  a portion  of 
time  that  inalienably  belongs  to  every  freeman. 

It  is  not  contended  that  a vessel  should  never  sail 
on  the  Sabbath ; this  would  be  impracticable.  It  is 
against  leaving  port  designedly  on  that  day,  that  these 
remarks  are  urged.  All  that  is  asked,  is,  that  the 
customs  by  which  seamen  are  governed  should  corres- 
pond to  those  of  landsmen;  in  other  words,  that  men 
shall  have  but  one  code  of  morality,  whether  on  the 
ocean  or  on  shore.  No  class  of  men,  ordinarily,  select 
the  Sabbath  as  an  appropriate  day  to  commence  a 
journey,  or  engage  in  any  important  enterprise  upon 
the  land,  yet  those  who  would  shrink  in  horror  from 
such  a palpable  outrage,  do  not  hesitate  to  commence 
the  most  hazardous  enterprises  by  sailing  on  this 
day,  professedly  dear  to  them  while  associated  with3 


310 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS 


and  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  their  fellows.  This  is 
altogether  irreconcilable  with  consistency  of  character. 

While  in  mid  ocean,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  proba- 
bly, of  the  propriety  of  continuing  the  voyage.  It  is 
doubtful  whether  there  could  be  any  material  diminu- 
tion of  labor,  should  the  attempt  be  made.  They 
have  simply  to  be  wafted  on,  by  the  favoring  breezes 
of  heaven,  unattended  by  the  ordinary  labors  of  leav- 
ing or  arriving  at  port.  During  the  longer  voyages, 
which  must  necessarily  require  several  Sabbaths,  there 
may  not,  indeed,  be  the  necessity  for  additional  sea- 
sons of  rest;  such  voyages  are  not  usually  attended 
with  any  considerable  amount  of  fatigue  in  the  dis- 
charge of  the  ordinary  duties  on  ship-board. 

It  is  not  my  wish  to  produce  a spirit  of  insubordi- 
nation, or  even  that  of  dissatisfaction,  only  so  far  as 
good  will  result  from  it,  among  those  who  have  se- 
lected a marine  life,  yet  a reform  is  really  demanded. 
The  spirit  of  the  age  in  which  we  live  requires  it. 
Reform  is  the  watch- word,  and  society  must  feel  its 
influence  to  its  remotest  limit.  Men  are  asserting 
their  manhood , and  while  the  genius  of  true  liberty 
survives,  individual  aggression  can  not  long  survive. 
The  power  of  popular  feeling  will  be  felt,  and  ship 
owners  and  masters  will  be  obliged  to  grant  to  sea- 
men some  of  the  privileges  which  they  claim  for 
themselves.  More  especially  will  this  be  true,  when 
the  unjust  requisition  conflicts  with  the  claims  of  con- 
science. Enlightened  men  will  not  long  submit  to 
such  tyrannical  injustice.  As  the  great  mass  becomes 
more  and  more  acquainted  with  the  grievances  of 
seamen ; more  and  more  interested  in  their  welfare,  a 


OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 


311 


radical  change  must  be  effected.  Encouraged  by 
popular  sympathy  the  sailer  can  assert  his  natural 
right,  and  such  proceedings,  though  sanctioned  by 
those  occupying  important  positions  in  society,  must 
soon  become  comparatively  rare. 

When  seamen  shall  feel  their  relative  importance 
in  the  great  operations  of  the  country,  and  indeed  of 
the  world,  when  they  shall  recover  in  a measure  from 
the  effects  of  their  former  degradation,  it  will  be  clear- 
ly seen  that  there  are  freemen  alike  in  the  forecastle 
and  the  cabin,  each  having  their  appropriate  duties 
and  spheres  of  action. 

Indeed,  this  is  the  only  healthful  feeling  that  can 
exist.  The  interests  of  the  two  great  classes, — officers 
and  seamen, — are  identified,  and  when  the  harmony  of 
this  relation  is  marred,  disastrous  consequences  im- 
mediately follow.  Yet  when  this  friendly  relation 
can  not  exist  without  a sacrifice  of  principle ; when 
necessary  discipline  is  attained,  or  power  ensured  only 
be  a degradation  of  the  governed;  when  his  rights  as 
a social  and  accountable  being  are  wrested  from  him, 
a recourse  to  the  only  alternative  may  be  justifiable. 
The  association  of  2,000,000  of  seamen,  inspired  by  a 
love  of  republicanism,  enlightened,  and  acting  in  har- 
monious concert,  may  effect  a revolution  which  shall 
distinctly  mark  the  age  in  which  it  occurs,  as  an  era 
in  the  history  of  the  marine  enterprise. 

The  indications  of  the  present  age  are  exceedingly 
cheering  in  this  respect.  The  first  dawnings  of  a 
brighter  day  for  the  sons  of  the  ocean  are  already 
visible,  and  we  dare  predict,  that  the  time  is  not  far 
distant,  when  some  of  their  fondly-cherished  hopes 


312  LIGHTS  AND  SHADOWS  OF  SAILOR  LIFE. 

will  be  realized ; when  the  sacred  endearments  of  so- 
cial life,  when  family  ties  will  not  be  riven ; when  the 
exercises  of  the  sanctuary  will  not  be  abridged  for  the 
purpose  of  engaging  in  the  pressing  duties  of  the  de- 
parture, and  exchanging  the  melody  of  songs  of  praise 
for  the  boisterous  confusion  and  hilarity  of  the  ship. 

In  this  change  there  will  necessarily  be  less  of  the 
compulsory  features,  less  apparent  necessity  to  be  re- 
moved from  the  more  endeared  relations  of  life, — those 
influences  which  soften  the  asperities  of  our  nature 
and  make  men  wiser  and  happier  ; less  of  the  feeling 
of  dependence  and  degradation  which  attends  one 
when  he  feels  that  he  must  implicitly  obey  the  will 
of  another,  and  less  of  the  recklessness  and  vice 
which  materially  influences  such  as  feel  that  they 
have  but  little  to  lose,  and  can  aspire  to  nothing  be- 
yond present  attainments. 


REFLECTIONS, 


THE  MURDERS  AT  MALOLO. 


Various  reports  have  been  circulated  through  the 
community,  relative  to  the  causes  which  led  to  this 
most  painfully  afflictive  event,  and  I feel  myself 
called  upon  as  an  act  of  justice  to  the  gallant  dead,  to 
give  the  sad  details,  and  leave  a candid  community 
to  make  candid  inferences.  I am  still  more  impressed 
with  a sense  of  duty  in  this  matter,  since  some  im- 
putations have  been  urged,  perhaps  by  evil  disposed 
persons,  in  reference  to  the  official  character  of  Mr. 
Underwood. 

Lieut.  J.  A.  Underwood  was  a citizen  of  Pawtucket, 
Mass. ; his  parents  and  family  connections  rank  with 
the  first  society  of  the  state.  At  an  early  period  in 
life,  he  was  distinguished  for  a brilliancy  of  intellect, 
a generosity  and  manliness  of  character,  combined 
with  a high  sense  of  honor,  which  won  the  respect  ofy 
and  endeared  him  to,  all  with  whom  he  was  associat- 
ed. He  entered  the  navy  when  he  had  arrived  at 
manhood,  and  distinguished  himself  there  by  his  gen- 
tlemanly deportment ; the  rapidity  with  which  he  ac- 
27 


314 


REFLECTIONS. 


quired  a knowledge  of  his  profession,  together  with 
his  good  sense  and  coolness  in  the  various  emergencies 
incident  upon  the  life  of  the  sailor,  gave  him  the  con- 
fidence of  those  around  him,  as  well  as  of  the  Hon. 
D.  Webster,  and  others  of  his  friends,  who  were  in- 
strumental in  securing  his  appointment.  In  1838  he 
was  married  to  the  beautiful  and  accomplished  daugh- 
ter of  Dr.  J.  E.  Stevens  of  Boston,  and  left  the  object 
of  his  affections  in  a few  days  after  his  union,  to  par- 
ticipate in  the  eventful  incidents  of  this  cruise,  which 
to  him  proved  to  be  his  last,  long  voyage.  At  this 
time  he  ranked  as  passed  midshipman ; early  in  the 
cruise  he  was  promoted  to  that  of  lieutenant,  and  was 
zealous,  active  and  efficient  in  that  capacity,  and  his 
services  were  very  valuable  in  the  various  depart- 
ments of  scientific  research. 

I have  penned  this  obituary  notice  of  him,  not  so 
much  as  a memoir,  but  for  the  purpose  of  introducing 
him  to  the  public  as  he  was,  and  by  the  light  of  his 
own  character,  to  eradicate  imputations  that  may  have 
gained  some  credence  in  the  community. 

We  left  the  ship,  then  lying  at  Sandal-Wood  Bay, 
on  the  16th  of  July,  1840,  with  six  days’  provisions 
in  the  boat,  with  orders  to  join  the  brig  and  schooner 
at  Malolo,  on  the  22d,  three  boats  in  company, — the 
Leopard,  under  Lieut.  Underwood,  the  launch  of  the 
Peacock,  Lieut.  George  F.  Emmons,  and  the  2d  cut- 
ter of  the  Vincennes,  Lieut.  Alden.  On  the  evening 
of  the  22d,  the  boats  of  the  Vincennes  arrived  at  the 
island ; the  brig  and  schooner  were  not  in  sight  at  that 
time.  We  landed  at  the  Island  of  Great  Malolo,  called 
by  them,  Malolo  Laib — ascended  some  of  the  hills,  to 
Ipok  for  the  vessels.  At  noon  we  finished  our  stock 


REFLECTIONS. 


315 


of  provisions,  and  were  obliged  to  retire  that  night  sup- 
perless.  On  the  morning  of  the  eventful  24th,  we 
were  joined  by  Lieut.  Emmons,  from  whom  we  had 
been  separated  three  days,  who  was  also  without  pro- 
visions. It  was  thought  advisable  to  venture  up  to 
the  town  for  provisions,  though  we  regarded  it  as  haz- 
ardous; it  devolved  upon  Lieut.  U.  and  his  crew  to 
perform  this  perilous  duty,  as  his  boat  was  the  small- 
est. That  morning  Mr.  U.  and  myself  procured  the 
hostage,  knowing  that  while  we  retained  him  there 
could  be  no  danger.  When  we  succeeded  in  getting 
off  the  reef,  we  left  the  hostage  in  the  charge  of  two 
seamen,  in  whose  care  he  was  perfectly  safe.  We 
then  landed  with  a sufficient  force  to  have  repulsed 
the  armies  of  the  entire  island,  had  we  obeyed  the  or- 
ders of  our  officers.  We  numbered  eleven  men  on 
shore,  armed  with  four  rifles  and  three  pistols,  at  the 
time  of  the  attack.  Here  the  reader  may  see  the  true 
cause  of  the  disastrous  events  which  have  made  many, 
many  a heart  to  bleed  from  wounds  which  time  can 
never  fully  heal. 

Some  of  the  prominent  causes  of  the  disaster  were, — 
First,  the  want  of  provisions,  which  rendered  it  neces- 
sary that  we  should  go  on  shore : — Secondly,  the  over- 
sight of  Mr.  Alden,  in  permitting  the  hostage  to  escape 
from  his  boat,  after  he  had  taken  him  from  those  with 
whom  Mr.  Underwood  had  entrusted  him ; — and  Last- 
ly, the  want  of  judgment  and  presence  of  mind  on  the 
part  of  some  of  the  men  who  were  on  shore ; this  is  at- 
tributable to  the  suddenness  of  the  attack,  and  the  vast 
superiority  in  point  of  numbers.  Mr.  Underwood’s  first 
order  was,  u Keep  together  men,  we  can  fight  our  way 
to  the  boat.”  Had  this  order  been  obeyed,  we  might 


316 


REFLECTIONS. 


have  repulsed  them  until  the  boats  could  have  come 
to  our  rescue. 

There  was  one  other  circumstance  which  had  much 
to  do  with  this  sad  adventure;  I refer  to  the  fact  that 
we  had  not  a sufficient  number  of  weapons  to  furnish 
all  of  our  men.  When  we  left  the  ship,  we  had  a 
rifle,  a cutlass  and  a pistol  each,  but  the  last  time  that 
we  were  with  the  Brig  Porpoise,  the  cutlases,  pistols, 
and  more  than  half  of  the  rifles  were  taken  from  the 
boat.  By  whose  order,  or  for  what  purpose  this  was 
done,  I am  not  prepared  to  say.  I remonstrated  by 
every  argument  that  I could  urge  against  it,  and  I 
well  recollect  that  it  was  repugnant  to  the  wishes  and 
feelings  of  Mr.  Underwood;  I remember,  however, 
that  he  said  it  was  the  order,  because  they  were  get- 
ting rusty  in  the  boat.  The  men  that  had  no  weap- 
ons started  for  the  boat  first,  and  this  had  its  influence 
upon  those  who  were  supplied.  John  Dunnock  and 
John  McKean,  were  the  only  men  beside  the  officers 
and  myself,  who  fired,  and  neither  of  those  attempted 
to  reload.  I observed  William  J.  Lester,  a Virginian 
who  carried  the  box  of  trade,  in  an  encounter  with 
some  of  the  natives,  fighting  them  as  best  he  could,  as 
he  was  without  weapons.  I was  knocked  down,  an(J 
as  I looked  for  him  when  I arose,  he  had  disappeared ; 
whether  he  had  escaped,  or  had  been  slain,  I could 
not  then  determine,  but  afterward  learned  that  he  sue-* 
eeeded  in  reaching  the  boat. 

These  are  the  facts  relative  to  the  murder  of  the 
officers,  as  I learned  them  from  sad  experience.  Here 
I leave  the  subject  so  far  as  Mr.  Underwood  is  con- 
cerned, and  ask  the  reader  to  make  his  own  infer- 
ences. It  was  an  event  in  which  I felt  a deep  inter- 


REFLECTIONS. 


317 


est,  and  shared  largely  in  its  perils.  I felt,  in  the  loss 
of  Mr.  Underwood,  that  I had  lost  a most  valuable 
friend,  and  one  for  whom  I felt  all  the  strength  of  at- 
tachment that  a sailor  can  feel,  and  while  I regret 
that  the  tongue  of  slander  or  “ green-eyed”  envy 
should  assail  the  reputation  of  a friend,  it  gives  me 
pleasure  to  clearly  disprove  all  that  has  been  urged 
against  an  officer,  whose  real  merits  the  nation  will 
never  be  able  to  appreciate. 

Mr.  Henry  was  an  officer  of  much  merit,  and  was 
esteemed  in  the  squadron ; he  possessed  a greater  share 
of  the  esteem  of  the  crews  than  any  other  midship- 
man. In  addition  to  personal  beauty,  he  was  possess- 
ed of  an  amiability  of  disposition  and  gentlemanly 
carriage,  which  made  him  a peculiar  favorite,  for  the 
sailor  always  loves  the  gentleman.  Nature  had  en- 
dowed him  with  the  necessary  qualifications  for  an 
officer,  and  had  his  life  been  spared,  in  my  estimation, 
he  would  have  been  one  of  the  brightest  ornaments  in 
the  American  navy.  What  an  exemplification  of  the 
truthfulness  of  the  remark  of  the  poet,  that  “ Death 
loves  a shining  mark  ! 55 

The  sentiments  which  I entertained  for  Mr.  Henry 
are  contained  in  the  following  stanzas,  which  were 
written  while  I was  recovering  from  my  wounds,  and 
presented  to  the  Commodore.  I insert  them,  not  as  a 
specimen  of  poetry,  but  as  a testimony  to  the  talents 
and  worth  of  the  young  officer.  “ He  was  the  only 
son  of  his  mother,  and  she  was  a widow,” — a sister 
of  Commodore  Wilkes : his  death  was  a deep  affliction 
to  his  mother,  who  could  be  sustained  under  her  afflic- 
tions only  by  Divine  grace. 

27* 


318 


REFLECTIONS. 


He  went  to  the  home  where  his  kind  mother  dwelt, 

To  tell  her  the  squadron  was  ready  to  sail, 

And  merry  the  heart  of  the  young  sailor  felt, 

For  bright  was  the  morning  and  fair  was  the  gale. 

In  vain  were  his  efforts  her  tears  to  restrain, 

By  reciting  the  hopes  that  inspired  him  with  joy, 

For  she  secretly  felt, — 0 how  keen  was  the  pain, — 
That  this  was  the  last  she  would  see  of  her  boy. 

The  hand  of  his  mother  he  grasped  in  his  own, 

And  bade  her  “ farewell”  as  he  rose  to  depart; 

She  could  breathe  no  response,  for  to  her  ’twas  the  tone 
Of  the  death-knell  of  all  that  was  dear  to  her  heart. 

He  hastened  on  board  and  the  anchors  were  “ home 
The  wide  canvas  spread,  his  ship  started  from  shore, 

But  ah  ! who  can  tell  of  the  evil  to  come, — 

He  had  left  her  indeed,  to  behold  her  no  more! 

To  the  Isle  of  Malolo,  the  lonely  abode 
Of  a Cannibal  King  and  his  murderous  train, 

The  youth  in  the  path  of  his  duty  had  trod, — 

Was  attacked  by  the  natives  and  treacherously  slain. 

I saw  from  his  eye  flash  the  heroic  fire 

Of  a brave  and  true  heart  that  was  formed  to  command  ; 

He  could  not  advance,  and  he  would  not  retire, 

But  he  stood,  fought  and  fell  with  his  knife  in  his  hand. 

To  a desolate  island  his  body  we  bore, 

And  laid  his  remains  with  his  comrades  to  rest ; 

That  island  ne’er  held  such  a treasure  before, 

As  the  jewels  we  buried  so  deep  in  its  breast. 

Dear  youth ! he  has  gone  to  his  rest  with  the  brave, 

To  the  source  whence  true  glory,  true  happiness  springs 
The  tears  of  his  countrymen  sprinkled  his  grave, 

And  the  blue,  rolling  ocean  his  requiem  sings. 


REFLECTIONS. 


319 


In  closing  this  work,  having  given  my  testimony  to 
the  illustrious  dead,  I feel  that  it  is  but  duty  to  give 
my  views  of  the  living,  and  having  had  eight  years  ex- 
perience in  the  U.  S.  navy,  I am  prepared  to  say  that  it 
only  needs  an  opportunity,  to  exhibit  as  much  real 
and  active  talent  as  has  ever  characterized  our  navy  at 
any  previous  time  in  its  history.  As  a general  prin- 
ciple, the  naval  officers  of  the  United  States  are  gen- 
tlemen, who  would  not  suffer  by  a comparison  with 
those  of  any  country  in  the  world ; and  being  mostly 
inducted  into  sea  life  in  their  boyhood,  they  grow  up 
in  their  business,  and  at  the  expiration  of  their  minor- 
ity, are  as  capable  of  managing  a ship  under  any  cir- 
cumstances, as  many  officers  whose  heads  are  sprin- 
kled o’er  with  age.  I have  heard  foreigners  urge  as 
an  objection  to  the  efficiency  of  our  navy,  the  extreme 
youth  of  many  of  our  lieutenants ; but  I feel  satisfied 
that  the  glory  of  the  American  navy  will  never  be 
tarnished  from  this  cause.  On  the  contrary,  there 
are  many  decided  advantages  arising  from  the  youth 
of  our  officers.  The  great  experience  of  those  who 
are  now  past  the  middle  age,  and  who,  in  the  ordi- 
nary course  of  nature,  will  be  active  and  efficient 
commanders  long  after  our  young  lieutenants  will  be 
flying  their  own  pennants,  is  one  of  these  advantages. 

But  there  are  two  sources  of  evil  that  may  be  easily 
closed, — one  by  the  government,  and  the  other  by  the 
commanders  of  the  different  ships,  from  which  an  in- 
fluence is  expanding  that  must  ultimately  tarnish 
American  naval  glory.  The  very  common  practice 
of  promoting  foreigners  to  places  of  extra  emolument 
and  trust  among  the  grades  denominated  petty  offi- 
cers, has  the  effect  to  fill  our  navy  with  the  sailors  of 


320 


REFLECTIONS. 


other  countries,  while  American  seamen  are  becoming 
disgusted  with  the  service,  by  being  compelled  to  sub- 
mit to  the  authority  of  those  who,  with  or  without  pro- 
vocation, will  abuse  the  country,  curse  the  flag  of  the 
United  States  every  day ; and  if  in  the  indulgence  of 
those  patriotic  feelings  which  give  spirit  to  the  navy, 
the  American  sailor  should  resent  the  insult,  he  would 
be  sure  to  receive  the  degrading  penalty  of  one  or  two 
dozen  lashes  from  the  “ cat-o’-nine-tails”  on  his  na- 
ked back.  This  practice,  in  time  of  war,  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  the  most  pernicious  consequences; — an  il- 
lustration was  furnished  in  the  late  war  with  Eng- 
land. In  that  unfortunate  affair  of  the  Chesapeake, 
a Portuguese  boatswain’s  mate  was  heard  to  say,  on 
going  below  after  the  battle,  “ So  much  for  not  pay- 
ing men  their  prize  money  !” — plainly  intimating  that 
he  had  purposely  neglected  his  duty  because  he  had 
no  interest  in  the  engagement  beyond  the  expectation 
of  prize  money  and  wages.  The  practice,  then,  of. 
filling  all  such  offices  with  foreigners,  must  appear,  to 
the  mind  of  every  officer  who  knows  the  importance 
of  such  stations  in  war,  highly  deleterious  both  to  the 
honor  and  efficiency  of  our  navy. 

The  other  source  of  deterioration,  and  one  from 
which  unnumbered  evils  emanate,  opening  the  flood- 
gates of  iniquity,  is  the  serving  of  the  “ grog  rations.” 
Probably,  an  officer  cannot  be  found,  who  could  not 
honestly  testify  that  nine  tenths  of  the  insurrections, 
desertions,  and  indeed  the  whole  catalogue  of  crimes 
which  curse  the  navy,  are  attributable  to  this  perni- 
cious practice.  And  yet  government,  knowing  the 
legitimate  effects  of  this  course,  still  persist  in  dealing 
out  destruction,  wo  and  misery.  By  this  custom  the 


REFLECTIONS. 


321 


seamen  are  degraded,  ill-treated,  brutalized,  and  in 
many  cases  probably  remain  so,  from  a kind  of  neces- 
sity ; after  having  lost  all  self-respect,  they  have  but 
little  inducement  to  mingle  in  decent  society  on  shore. 

How  inconsistent ! The  sailor  is  tempted,  virtually 
compelled  to  disobey, — by  presenting  him  with  the 
intoxicating  bowl,  while  his  appetite  is  almost  ungov- 
ernable— and  then  is  flogged  for  his  disobedience  ! He 
is  crushed,  hurled  to  the  depths  of  dissipation  and 
pollution,  and  is  subject  to  discipline  for  his  degrada- 
tion ! In  fine,  almost  insuperable  barriers  to  his  pro- 
motion, and  even  to  respectability  are  interposed,  and 
perchance  it  is  deeply  lamented  that  the  sailor  does 
not  become  eminent  in  his  profession.  From  the  same 
treasury  the  draught  is  drawn  to  defray  the  expenses 
of  the  Chaplain,  and  to  purchase  “ liquid  fire”  to 
counteract  the  most  benign  influences  ! “Oh  shame 
where  is  thy  blush  ! ” 

No  man  is  a greater  friend  to  discipline  than  I am. 
I think  I understand  the  necessity  of  having  strict 
discipline  rigidly  enforced.  The  navy  cannot  be  gov- 
erned without  the  aid  of  corporal  punishment,  so  long 
as  the  inducement  is  held  out  to  make  our  men  of 
war  the  great  receptacle  of  the  besotted  sailors  of  all 
nations,  who,  by  their  excesses,  have  been  rendered 
incapable  of  doing  their  duty  in  the  merchant  service, 
and  seek  for  the  gratification  of  a depraved  appetite 
in  the  service  of  the  American  government.  I have 
been  flogged  in  the  navy,  through  the  effects  of  rum, 
not  drank  by  myself  however,  but  by  others ; for  I 
never  was  drunk  in  my  life.  But  though  unjustly 
flogged,  I would  give  my  voice  decidedly  against  the 
banishment  of  the  “ cats”  from  the  navy  so  long  as 


322 


REFLECTIONS. 


the  grog  ration  is  served  there,  as  this  is  the  only  ef- 
ficient restraint  the  commander  can  impose  upon  the 
appetite  of  young  sailors. 

When  the  time  arrives  in  which  Congress  shall 
cease  to  encourage  drunkenness  and  rebellion,  our 
own  seamen,  patriotic  and  responsible,  will  take  their 
stations,  and  do  honor  to  the  navy  of  their  country. 
Corporal  punishment,  with  all  its  degrading  attend- 
ants, will  then  be  abolished,  and  respectable  officers 
will  be  able  to  secure  respectable  men.  And  here  I 
am  happy  to  add  my  testimony  to  the  character  of 
Captains  Wilkes  and  Hudson.  They  are  both  tem- 
perance men  and  officers,  and  probably  no  two  naval 
officers  are  held  in  higher  estimation,  as  men  of  judg- 
ment and  energy  and  decision  of  character.  They 
have  seen  the  sad  effects  of  intoxication,  and  I have 
heard  them  both  advocate  the  abolition  of  the  “spirit 
rations.” 

The  officers  of  the  expedition  were  generally  young 
men,  most  of  the  lieutenants  acting  by  the  appoint- 
ment of  the  Commodore ; the  voyage  was  long,  ex- 
ceeding four  years  to  most  of  us.  Its  duties  were  ar- 
duous, and  many  of  them  hazardous  in  the  extreme, 
but  by  the  skill  and  perseverance  of  the  commanders, 
the  active  and  efficient  cooperation  of  the  younger  offi- 
cers, together  with  the  fidelity  and  zeal  of  the  seamen, 
the  most  satisfactory  result  accrued  from  the  cruise. 
The  most  sanguine  expectations  of  its  projectors  were 
realized,  and  indeed  much  more  than  was  originally 
designed,  was  accomplished  by  our  observations.  We 
had  even  here,  ample  demonstration  of  the  fact  that 
more  of  the  evils,  and  less  of  the  benefits  resulted 
from  the  “-grog  tub  ” than  from  all  other  causes  com- 
bined. 


INDEX. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Departure — Sermon — Ocean  Scenery — Flying  Fish  and  Dolphin— 

A Brilliant  Phosphoretic  Scene,  and  its  cause — The  Madeira  Isl- 
ands— Rio  de  Janeiro — Ascent  of  the  Sugar  Loaf,  . . . .13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Description  of  Rio  de  Janeiro — Emperor’s  Palace — Celebration  of  the 
Emperor’s  Birth — Imperial  Church  Chapel — Chnrch,  and  the  Vow 
of  the  Empress — Sectional  difference — Funeral  occasion,  . . 26 

CHAPTER  III. 

Interview  with  the  Natives — Orange  Harbor — Interview  with  another 
party  of  Natives — Return  of  a part  of  the  Squadron — Valparaiso — 

The  Cemetery, 39 


CHAPTER  IV. 

San  Lorenzo — Epitaphs — Appearance  of  Natives  and  Soldiers — “ Glo- 
rious Fourth” — Funeral  of  one  of  our  number — Discovery  of  seve- 
ral Islands, 54 


CHAPTER  V. 

Island  of  Matavai — Visit  of  the  Consul — Expedition — Sermon  by  Rev. 

Mr.  Wilson — Conduct  of  the  American  Consul — Treaty — Interview 
with  the  Natives — Description  of  the  Islands — Traits  of  the  Inhab- 
itants— Effects  of  Missionary  labor, 66 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Visit  of  the  Christian  party — Appointments  of  the  Consul — The  Sa- 
moa Group — Trial  of  a Native — Embarking  of  the  Squadron — Wal- 
lace Island — Arrival  at  New  Holland — Inhabitants,  . . . .81 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Murder  of  Rev.  John  Williams — Sydney — New  South  Wales — Em- 
barkation— Gale — Dangers  of  Southern  Latitudes,  . . . .94 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Attempts  to  Land  continued — Reflections — Return  to  the  North,  . 109 


324 


INDEX. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Arrival  at  New  Holland — Singular  coincidence — Arrival  at  New  Zea- 
land— “ War  Dance” — Description  of  the  Islands — Inhabitants — 

The  New  Zealanders  and  New  Hollanders  contrasted,  . . . 120 

CHAPTER  X. 

General  Remarks — Fijii  Islands — Cannibalism — A Convict  Exile — 
Death  of  a Shipmate — Encounter  with  the  Natives — Visit  at  Muth- 
water — A Fatal  Contest  with  the  Natives, 133 

CHAPTER  XL 

The  Punishment  for  the  Murders — Funeral  Services  of  the  Murder- 
ed— Departure — Gardener's  Island — Recollections  of  Home — Arri- 
val at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Honolulu — Common  People,  . . 159 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Visit  of  a Native  Chief— Sentence  of  death  passed  upon  two  Natives 
for  the  murder  of  a Female  Chief — Departure — Arrival  at  Hawaii — 
Expedition — Visit  to  the  Volcano — MounaRoa,  ....  173 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Ascent  of  the  Mountain  continued — The  Lava — Fatigue  and  Expo- 
sure of  the  Journey — Descent  into  the  Crater — The  Basin — Severi- 
ty of  the  Weather— Return  to  the  Ship — Visit  of  the  Chief,  . . 194 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Visit  of  the  Missionaries — Survey  of  the  Harbor — Embarkation — Ar- 
rival at  the  Columbia  River — Description — Arrival  at  Protection  Isl- 
and— Survey — Natives — Admiralty  Inlet — Meteor — Observance  of 
the  “ 4th  ” — Accident, 207 

CHAPTER  XV. 

General  Remarks  on  Nasqually,  &c. — Return  to  Columbia  River — 
Point  Dungeness — Indian  Settlement — Natives — San  Francisco — 
Inhabitants, 221 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Arrival  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Incident  at  Oahu — Departure — A 
meditated  attack  of  the  Natives — Arrival  at  Singapore — Arrival  at 
St.  Helena — Description — Reflections  upon  Napoleon — Departure 


— Arrival  at  New  York, 242 

Reminiscences. — Wreck  of  the  Peacock, 265 

Lagoon  or  Disappointment  Islands,  . . . 289 

Reflections. — The  Murders  at  Malolo, 313 


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